SubOperator Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 I got some extensive noise coming from my wheels, which grew to the point of making the drive really uncomfortable past 65 mph. I also get some buzz vibration along with that that makes a lot of other things in the car resonate. Car is 05 GT, has 145K on it and the bearings are original. I suspect that the noise was there for a long time now but I always thought it was due to my aftermarket DP and some aggressive alignment. Now it has grown to a point where I can clearly distinguish between wheel noise and DP, and when I switch to neutral and let the car coast with engine idling the noise is still there. I swapped the tires (changed to winter set with 1 year old tires on it) to exclude noise from worn summers. Got the alignment done once again, think it should be fine as the car rolls straight without pulling left or right. Noise is still there. I have offset WL LCA bushings installed but again the alignment was done and the WLs are on the car for couple of years now and the noise is relatively new and growing louder. Feels like most of the noise is coming from the front but there is some also coming from rear left wheel as well. Also, the noise from left front gets louder when there is a load on it (say when car makes right turn at speed), and gets less loud when load is removed (making left turn at speed). The question is, how can I test the bearings without going to the dealer? I don't have a lift but have jack stands and couple of jacks. Any help/info is really appreciated. It's not a small job to replace these and the parts are not cheap so I'd rather diagnose it correctly before I attempt to replace the bearings. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 When mine went I couldn't tell by pulling on the wheels. It just made a chopping noise around turns and when the mechanic pulled it off he said it spun too freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 When mine went I couldn't tell by pulling on the wheels. It just made a chopping noise around turns and when the mechanic pulled it off he said it spun too freely. Same here. I had no way of telling for sure until I had replaced the part. My symptom was a growling or roaring type noise on left turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 We've installs 100s of bearings on legacies. There is no physical way to tell if they are shot like the old shake the wheel test back in the day. We've found on these new bolt in style ones the noise is usually the tell-tale way to know. With 145k miles on your car and never having done the bearings count your blessings. Here in the NY/NJ area they are a wear item at around 100k miles. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 Thanks Mike. I have some on order already, we'll what the change brings. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 Btw, Mike, how much are you charging for a bearing replacement, labor wise? Dealer wants $200 per corner for labor only. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 My mechanic did it for 40bucks because he didn't have to press it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 We charge $305 for the parts and labor together. Labor alone probably in the 1-2hr range so you are looking at 95-190 depending on how long it takes. http://azpinstalls.com/web/index.php/services/repairs/suspensions $40 is dirt cheap for anything on a car, that's less than 1/2hr worth of labor charges. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Now we have an Online Catalog where you can purchase Parts! AZPParts.com Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derp Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 If you're handy, you can do it yourself. I did both my rears, after the first one (in a parking lot at a track in about an hour) I did the second one in about 30 minutes. It's a pretty straightforward deal. I could suck start a snow blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 If you're handy, you can do it yourself. I did both my rears, after the first one (in a parking lot at a track in about an hour) I did the second one in about 30 minutes. It's a pretty straightforward deal. Yeah, sometimes they come right out, sometimes here in the Northeast they are rusted and it takes a bit more to get em out. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Now we have an Online Catalog where you can purchase Parts! AZPParts.com Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Yes the fact that it's a whole assembly with what 5 bolts I think? makes it very easy if you can turn a wrench. EDIT: I am in the Midwest and it took a good bit of persuasion to get my hubs off. Got it with just the hammer though, didn't have to go to power tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derp Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 I'm in MN, I used a hub puller and a rubber mallet. No problem. I could suck start a snow blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 It only took him 30mins to do it in his shop and we were gibber gabberin the whole time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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