kurtis9813 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I have been trying to fix my evap code(p0441 evap incorrect purge flow) on my 97 legacy gt for over a year now. I figured out the code was probably due to the fact that my car had no charcoal canister after having 98 ej25 swapped in. The 98 gt has a rear charcoal canister instead of the 97's front charcoal canister , so due to the swap my car had no charcoal canister. So i went to the junkyard and picked up a charcoal canister and went to the auto parts store and got a variety of different size vacuum hose. I then installed the charcoal canister by placing it in between the hose that collects the vapors from the gas tank and the first solenoid this hose was connected to. This did solve all the symptoms i was having, but did not stop my evap code from coming back. It used to come back after 15-20 miles after clearing the code and now it comes back after 8-10 miles after clearing the code. I was thinking maybe i have the charcoal canister in the wrong place or maybe i am missing something else? Not sure what the stock evap layout is for the 97 and I could really use a schematic or pictures of how all the solenoids are connected and which hoses go where. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Your evaporative purge control solenoid valve is bad, most likely. It is located under the intake manifold. Have you tried replacing it? A new one is spendy, like $125. I've tried replacing mine with junkyard valves but they were crap too. You can also replace it with a Geo valve or something, I'll have to search around and find out which one works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 I was thinking it might be bad, I have replaced in the past when trying to figure out my evap code and swapped it with one off a parts car I had, but it didnt help. My only guess could be that without the charcoal canister before it could be clogged because if the lack of the filter that is located at one of the canisters inlets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I just bought a purge control solenoid for $85 (for my 2.2- not sure about a 2.5) from Rock Auto. Nothing was wrong with the old one until I broke one of the vacuum hose fittings hose trying to replace vacuum lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 I just did the same thing when I installed my charcoal canister, but I replaced it with the extra I had lying around. And does this solenoid have to be bolted under the intake manifold? the owner before me must have had it off for some reason and never bolted it back up just left it sitting in place, it doesn't move at all, but does it have to be facing a certain way to flow correctly? Mine currently is ziptied to my air intake, so I can access it easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 It doesn't have to be placed underneath the manifold for it to work properly. I relocated mine to the top of the intake manifold for easy access. There is a little bracket that is already there that I used to bolt it in place. SQC151 snapped this pic, he is the one that suggested it to me in the first place. Hopefully you have the hoses hooked up correctly. When I installed mine I hooked the hoses up backwards and still threw the code. I don't know how to test the solenoid so there is the chance the other one you put on is faulty. Or it could be another problem altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IrishLt Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 I'm staring at my purge solenoid right now....have yet to replace the one that's in the car. Throwing a 0441 too, the one from rockauto I got for the 2.5 didn't want to play nice with my harness connector....although stevo's went right into his 2.2 and was the same part so who knows, my car can be a bitch about stuff. You can check the circuit on it by checking resistance across the pins. But even if this checks out....doesn't mean it's sealing/opening up right. My old one never shuts, you can blow straight through it. I took a chance and picked up one from the yard that spec'd right with the multi meter and doesn't seem to leak for 30$(figured it was worth the gamble). To move it from under the intake like monkey's you might have to add vacuum line, but it will be well worth it if you have to get at it again. My old ones just hanging in there, figured it's already shot so I wasn't too worried about securing it. Good luck, emissions codes are a pita. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 ^I looked in the FSM and elsewhere for resistance specs on the solenoid. If you know them I'd be stoked. I could check the resistance on my newish one and I could report back. From what I have gathered a bad evap solenoid won't hurt the engine at all or be detrimental to its operation. The only issue is it will cause a CEL which may or may not be a problem depending on your local emission/safety laws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IrishLt Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 If I remember correctly, it should show somewhere between 30-40ohm. And anything down to mid 20's is still "ok" for an older solenoid/valve....alot of the dead ones you'll see are in the teens/single digits or have crazy high resistance. You can also connect the green test connectors under the dash to make sure the solenoid is still cycling. Mine was dying for a year, managed to get it to pass inspection and then it completely died and has been running wide open for last year. Nothing out of the norm noticed or idling issues, so yeah, just that damn SES light that gives me problems at inspection time....which is now. For the record:Those are for the stock valve and off the top of my head. Aftermarket could have different values and be completely fine as different manufacturers equals different materials/electronic components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Actually after I broke my purge solenoid I never got a code but the engine flooded with gas fumes after filling up and the ar was hard to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 I decided to test the purge solenoid valve by swapping ing the one from my 99 legacy project car(headgaskets). I know this one is working fine, but when I went to remove it I noticed that someone previously snapped the hose connector off and epoxy-ed it back on, so I re-did the epoxy because it was weak and just swapped it in my car this morning. Now we just wait for the check engine light to either come back or stay away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 That's what I did with my purge solenoid when I first broke it. I had no idea what is was and thought it it was just a couple of vacuum lines from from the intake manifold, so I put sealant in the broken off part of the fitting and T-d the 2 lines from the existing good vacuum fitting. That's when I had the problems stating it after fill-ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 Maybe it is my solenoid thats bad, after fillups my car would run like sh*t for about 50 miles. I'd be driving it and all of a sudden the rpms would drop and the pedal would stiffen up and then it would just jump back to normal, and at low rpm cruising the car would stall sometimes. Maybe since I didn't have the charcoal canister the solenoid would get clogged when I filled my tank because of all the vapors came through at once. Once I put the canister in I was able to fill my tank without having any problems driving afterwards, but I still got the code, probably because I either clogged my old solenoid or blew it from not having a canister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.