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New radiator not sure if I like it


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Should I even install this thing????????????

 

I recently bought a radiator online the cost was $129 - I had a $40 coupon so I got it for less than $129. Shipping was free.

 

The radiator fits well into the engine compartment, lines up with everything. The problem was the trans line connection.

 

The lower trans line connection is brazed on the bottom but the upper was not. The upper is user installed. The copper hose bib has a threaded nut with a flared end on the copper.

 

When I push or pull the trans lines there is a lot of stress applied to the radiator connections. How well will the nut/flare last? If the upper is a return line, it will be less prone to leaks because the fluid would be coming out of the threaded end into the bell side of the flared tube.

 

I had to return the first one to the local store and the replacement arrives this morning. It was bought online but it is their store's product and they were helpful. With 6 used cars I am in and out of their store and they know me by name. Knowing me by name.....is that a good thing? :eek:

 

The reason I had to return the first one was the threaded part of the flare / threaded end arrangement was not good. It could not be torqued enough to make a tight connection......nut would just spin at one point.

 

I didn't have any of this when I bought the 95 Subbie rad from an online only site.

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I'm not a fan of using third party parts on my vehicles. Often they'll have some difference from OEM which results in a less than ideal fit / function. Given this it is a rarity I will choose a third party part. If I've read good things about the fit / operation of a third party part, especially if it improves on the OEM, I may buy it.

 

So to answer your question if it were me I'd return it and buy OEM (having just replaced the radiator in mine six months ago).

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What I do like is that it is all metal. What went bad on my 95 was the plastic outlet tube failed and on the 97 Outback the plastic part of the rad. cracked at the seam.

 

If only they wouldn't have done that to the trans connector because other than that it was a perfect fit. Fan connector holes lines up, etc.

 

Right now I am not in the financial mood to pay $342 for a rad from the dealer or even the $213 from a Subbie Part online store. So I'll take a chance on it. I know the 95 Legacy third part rad is working well and has been in there for two years.

 

 

I'm not a fan of using third party parts on my vehicles. Often they'll have some difference from OEM which results in a less than ideal fit / function. Given this it is a rarity I will choose a third party part. If I've read good things about the fit / operation of a third party part, especially if it improves on the OEM, I may buy it.

 

So to answer your question if it were me I'd return it and buy OEM (having just replaced the radiator in mine six months ago).

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What I do like is that it is all metal. What went bad on my 95 was the plastic outlet tube failed and on the 97 Outback the plastic part of the rad. cracked at the seam.

 

If only they wouldn't have done that to the trans connector because other than that it was a perfect fit. Fan connector holes lines up, etc.

 

Right now I am not in the financial mood to pay $342 for a rad from the dealer or even the $213 from a Subbie Part online store. So I'll take a chance on it. I know the 95 Legacy third part rad is working well and has been in there for two years.

 

Third party tends to be one of compromise. Typically, as you can attest, there is something different about the products which has to be weighed against the benefit. In this case the benefit is lower cost and an all metal construction. The compromise is the connector is different. Only you can decide which is more important to you.

 

Personally I've never been happy with parts which are not a plug and play kind of fit. That's important to me. But I do realize other people aren't so concerned about exact fit. Third party may be a good choice for them. Especially if there's a cost savings.

 

Regardless it sounds as if you've reach an answer to the question. Hope my feedback helped you make that decision.

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A picture would help, I am trying to visualize this flared threaded nut and can't. My only thought on it would be that if this fitting is questionable, maybe run it by a radiator shop and have them braze it? Or take it off and have them braze on something different?
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im having very good luck with the spectre brand radiator for my GT. cost 130 at vato zone. car doesnt even get up to the half mark, sits just below the first bacon line. id buy them again. actually, when my 95 L has rad troubles im going to locate a couple GT fans and upgrade smokey to the bigger radiator as well. im all about using OEM when necessary, but ill also check out the aftermarket to see their quality and fitment, so i can attempt to save a few dollhairs.
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A picture would help, I am trying to visualize this flared threaded nut and can't. My only thought on it would be that if this fitting is questionable, maybe run it by a radiator shop and have them braze it? Or take it off and have them braze on something different?

 

i think he means the two tubes for the auto trans fluid cooler on the driver side. the bottom one seems to be a bit different than the top. IIRC the top one is a bolt-in with a flanged tube, and the bottom one looks like it is part of it all. i see that on a ton of different radiators, even the "universal" one i got from dodge for my truck had the same set up. useless for me tho, my truck is a 5mt. ive thought about turning it into an oil cooler.

 

 

like this?http://www.carid.com/images/koyorad/radiator/1839-4.jpg

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Like I said in your last thread, I corrected myself saying that radiator I bought was the Spectra brand that twisty also bought. If your replacement isn't 100% return it and have them get you the Spectra brand radiator. It will be 100% perfect fit. It's been pulled in and out of three different Subaru's and has held up very very well.
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Yep that is it.

 

At 7:30 this morning they had a new one at the store for me. While at the store I pulled it out of the box and screwed in the fitting. It is much better, tight and should cause no problem. The first one must have had bad threads. The drain petcock is metal on the outside, not sure about the threads. The bleed valve is metal on the outside but the threads are plastic.

 

You can tell a difference because the frame (upper and lower) is not needed on this one and that is a good thing. My old frame had broken bolts all along the bottom, the previous owner drilled holes and used screws to attach the fans at the bottom. It allowed me to go get nice new bolts and use bolts all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

i think he means the two tubes for the auto trans fluid cooler on the driver side. the bottom one seems to be a bit different than the top. IIRC the top one is a bolt-in with a flanged tube, and the bottom one looks like it is part of it all. i see that on a ton of different radiators, even the "universal" one i got from dodge for my truck had the same set up. useless for me tho, my truck is a 5mt. ive thought about turning it into an oil cooler.

 

 

like this?http://www.carid.com/images/koyorad/radiator/1839-4.jpg

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