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HELP ! Intake maifold not lining up


mycotopian

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As far as I know Shaggy is the only one that has converted over to the STI Intake manifold so I have already PM'd him. But maybe somebody elses is working on this as well. My issue is that I am switching over to the STI intake manifold and I got this email from the shop doing the work last night

 

The bolt patter in the center of the intake manifold/tumbler does not match. The easy way is to slot mill the center holes. The better way is to weld fill the holes in the center, machine flat, and re-drill & tap new holes. What do you want to do?

 

Has anybody else had this issue? What do you recomend I do?

 

I MUST have the car ready for the dyno appointment at 9am tomorrow and this is freakin me out. I'd be willing to go pick up a different version intake manifold if it made this smoother.

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Replied to your PM.

 

But just for reference, both methods will work fine. Drilling or slotting the holes would be easier, as they said, and should work fine with no problems. The more professional way would be their second option but both will perform the same task.

 

-Matt

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Yeah, should be an easy fix. It was for me. Dont stress about it.

 

What is funny is the Version 7 STi intake manifold doesnt line up with the USDM STi TGV housings. I had to drill out all the holes to get it to line up properly.

 

I did have the same problem getting the Version 7 manifold to line up with the LGT TGV housings though. I thought I warned everyone about this but apparently not.

 

-Matt

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I do have a USDM intake so I should be good there. I did end up gong with a Hondata Phenolic spacer while I was in there and I am bypassing the throttle body coolant line while I'm in there. I think with the sunny SoCal climate I shouldn't have any issues. Any other items that you can think of that are suggested while I've got it all ripped out? Also did you end up using your Legacy Coolant resevoir or running the Steel STI resevoir?
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2 new issues.

 

1 the Intake manifold I bought from gruppe-S was bare and did not include the vacume line barbs. I called the dealer and they are telling me the barbs are a "non serviceable part" and I need to order a new manifold. I borrowed some off an STI that is currently under construction until I can source new ones.

 

2. I don't have a 90 degree elbow that goes from the turbo discharge to the intercooler Y pipe. Does anybody know if there are any aftermarket options for this?

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2 new issues.

 

1 the Intake manifold I bought from gruppe-S was bare and did not include the vacume line barbs. I called the dealer and they are telling me the barbs are a "non serviceable part" and I need to order a new manifold. I borrowed some off an STI that is currently under construction until I can source new ones.

 

2. I don't have a 90 degree elbow that goes from the turbo discharge to the intercooler Y pipe. Does anybody know if there are any aftermarket options for this?

 

You can just drill out and tap the places where the fittings were and get some screw in barbs. Should be very easy to do.

 

-Matt

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I will be using this thread to log all the little things that I am running into throughout this conversion. Shaggy if you want to throw in how you approached each issue that's cool but once I am done I plan on coming back and putting in a little more detail about what the workarounds were.

 

New issues

The throttle body was hitting the steel crank case breather lines that run under the intake and come up near the TB. So far we just rotated teh TB 90 degrees so the plug is now facing up.

 

The corner of the tumbler greatly obstructs the intake path right before the turbo inlet. It make reusing the stock turbo inlet hose all but impossible

 

The Greddy SP2 for the wagon does bolt right up. Unfortunetly it sticks out about 3-4 inches past the rear bumper

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Grind off the corner that is in the way of the inlet. I did it to mine. There is plenty of material there to do so.

 

As for the TB hitting, that is a new one to me. Might be better just to make an adapter plate rather than rotating the TB as you may cause some unwanted issues by doing so.

 

-Matt

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on a side not. After removing the stock airbox there is no way I am putting it back in. I have a fabricator building a custom cold air intake that will sit in the HUGE GAPING HOLE left by the stock airbox. Seriously you could hide a midget in there if you wanted to or rent it out to a freind with a mini cooper as a parking space. If you really want to be cool you could pull your foglight and you'd have a very functional CAI
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After reading all of this (and a few other posts), I was thinking that it might be easier to get the APS TGV delete kit with whatever sensor simulator (they refer to them as servo's, though I doubt they really are...) you need. It's another 500, but this is my daily (and only) driver, so everything needs to go in on a weekend, and I don't have a whole lot of room for unexpected obstacles.

 

I'm fine with re-tapping holes and grinding and so forth, but I'd love to know just what to do where. Does anyone feel gutsy enough (and have the time to) write a tutorial? I'm sure the members here would love it - I know I would!

 

Thanks for any input you can give!

 

Current bits in holding pattern for installation: Perrin STi TMIC (STi TMIC laying around incase), VF34, Worx BOV, IC brackets, STi intake manifold (v7 I think - USDM either way), HKS up pipe, Cobb DP on the way, EM to be determined - suggestions?

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  • 3 weeks later...
I'm picking up a turbo and intercooler tomorrow. I just need a BOV and I'll be set. Hopefully next weekend. I'll do a nice write up on it. I'm waiting for a stock legacy fuel pump assembly to ship in so I can see what actually needs to be "machined" so that a Walbro will fit. It doesn't sound to hard, we'll just have to be patient. I did see that for about $200 ShaggyGT is modifying the stock assembly with the pump.
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Yea it's the vf39 and stock STi intercooler. They have less than 3k on them. I need a BOV and I should be set. I'm using a wrx intake manifold. I think that with a tune I'll be maxing out the stock injectors and fuel pump. I'll mod the injectors myself, but I think the fuel pump may be the weak part of the setup. I'll go for the protune as soon as I'm done. I'm curious to see exactly what this setup will do. I'm hoping for a good 350whp.
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I'm doing a swap this week too. used STi TMIC, a Forrester intake manifold (got it pretty much for free), modified injectors and walbro pump - either my installer will try his hand at it or we'll get one through Shaggy. getting it tuned at turboxs hopefully at the end of the week.

 

Chruisser - I'm not sure 350whp is realistic for the vf39 with a TMIC but it will be interesting to see what numbers you get.

getting out of the legacy game :cool:
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Chruisser - I'm not sure 350whp is realistic for the vf39 with a TMIC but it will be interesting to see what numbers you get.

 

I was thinking that myself, as what you're talking about is basically a stage II STI. From what I've seen, 350 is about the limit of the STI intercooler, but those kinds of numbers were always with a bigger turbo. Anyway, good luck, and looking forward to seeing your results!

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