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Rush600's coolant leak (pics)


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I disagree with this too. If you are truly low on coolant, add directly to the radiator, squeezing the upper radiator hose frequently to remove air bubbles. If you are a little low (as it sounds like Rush600 is now), absolutely, it is unnecessary to add to the radiator. But saying categorically that "you have no reason to pop the radiator cap" unless you are flushing coolant is inaccurate, IMO.

 

Actually, if you are on level ground, the turbo coolant reservoir (located next to the passenger side of the intake manifold) flows directly into the radiator without interruption. If you are wanting to save a little time while filling and you are severely low, then yes, you could pop the radiator cap and fill there first.

 

Squeezing the upper radiator hose isn't going to relieve any air in the system when it is cold and not operating. If you are severely low on coolant where the radiator is low, then you more than likely have air in your system and should cycle your coolant system to remove air properly.

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Actually, if you are on level ground, the turbo coolant reservoir (located next to the passenger side of the intake manifold) flows directly into the radiator without interruption. If you are wanting to save a little time while filling and you are severely low, then yes, you could pop the radiator cap and fill there first.

 

This is incorrect. There is a path between the radiator and the coolant reservoir, but it is at the top of the reservoir, so only overflow will go there. Furthermore, the hoses used for that are pretty small, so the flow is inefficient compared to putting coolant right in the radiator. (They are similar to the hose from the overflow tank -- designed to operate only when the system is pressurized.) Filling the radiator like that if it is low enough to make your temp gauge rise would take hours. Filling straight from the radiator cap will take minutes.

 

Squeezing the upper radiator hose isn't going to relieve any air in the system when it is cold and not operating. If you are severely low on coolant where the radiator is low, then you more than likely have air in your system and should cycle your coolant system to remove air properly.

 

Squeezing the upper radiator hose while you pour coolant into the radiator gets rid of probably 95% of the air bubbles. Never in my life have I "properly" burped the system, and yet for some reason, it operate perfectly after only squeezing the upper radiator hose. :iam:

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Interesting. Mine also has a cracked radiator. Where in MN are you, if I may ask?

 

I'm not sure how good it is, but I just ordered this replacement for myself: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Radiator/2005/P2778.html

 

When I fill my coolant, I fill the radiator first (then cap the radiator), then the turbo area tank, then the overflow. If you alternate between squishing the lower radiator hose and filling the turbo tank, that can help burp some of the air out of the system. Another trick I've read on here is to jack up the front right side of your car as high as you can before filling the turbo tank to help get the air out. Or was it the front left and the radiator tank? However, I would not bother with jacking it up until after the radiator has been replaced. In my case, my radiator makes a big mess of the engine bay after being filled. It spews the coolant everywhere as it heats up.

 

It may not be a bad idea to keep a gallon of distilled water in your cargo area, in case you're caught in a pinch.

 

If you're handy with tools, the radiator should be a relatively easy fix.

Buy coolant, distilled water, coolant conditioner, new hose clamps, new hoses or thermostat if needed, and transmission fluid.

Jack up the car. Drain the coolant. Remove battery negative. Remove intake snorkel. Remove upper radiator coolant hose. Remove radiator fans (you may have to unscrew a heat shield near the bottom first). Have a bucket ready. Undo the coolant hoses going to the radiator. Undo the transmission fluid hoses going to the radiator. Try and plug the coolant hoses and/or keep them upright, otherwise capillary action will make a nice mess for you and waste ATF. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Now is a good time to replace worn radiator hoses or your thermostat if you need to. For the thermostat, save yourself some trouble and go Subaru OE if you replace it. Install the new radiator and put it all back together. Don't forget to fill your transmission fluid in addition to your coolant. I may be forgetting something— this is from memory of doing my timing belt last summer— but that's the main idea. Be sure to check or re-tighten the hose clamps after a few days, if you use the screw-type.

 

Depending on what mods you may be planning for the future, now would also be a convenient time to install a transmission cooler. B&M is a good brand for that, IIRC, because they have a viscous bypass in the secondary cooler. That means that in MN winters, your tranny fluid won't get too cooled.

 

Regarding your oil issue, these cars drink oil anyway. Possible reasons for increased oil consumption: Leaking valve cover gaskets, worn/cracked piston rings (piston blow-by), leaking oil pump*, leaking crank seal*, leaking cam seals*, leaking oil cooler gasket, leaking turbo oil seal, etc. There's also the other possibilities that have been mentioned to you. It's likely a combination of some of these.

 

*If you take off the part of the timing cover right under the oil fill neck (four 10 mm bolts), you can see if there's oil or grime in there.

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How's this: don't open the radiator cap unless your temp gauge is rising significantly above halfway. At that point it is probably safe and may be necessary. Otherwise, add to the overflow tank.

 

I did that last night. Coolant may or may not spray out, but one still has to be careful of hot steam. Some leather work gloves may be helpful in such a scenario.

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This is incorrect. There is a path between the radiator and the coolant reservoir, but it is at the top of the reservoir, so only overflow will go there. Furthermore, the hoses used for that are pretty small, so the flow is inefficient compared to putting coolant right in the radiator. (They are similar to the hose from the overflow tank -- designed to operate only when the system is pressurized.) Filling the radiator like that if it is low enough to make your temp gauge rise would take hours. Filling straight from the radiator cap will take minutes.

 

 

 

Squeezing the upper radiator hose while you pour coolant into the radiator gets rid of probably 95% of the air bubbles. Never in my life have I "properly" burped the system, and yet for some reason, it operate perfectly after only squeezing the upper radiator hose. :iam:

 

I guess I'm not following how you're saying I'm incorrect when you are reaffirming my points???

 

Squeezing the upper hose when the engine is warm or running will relieve some air in the system but will not rid the system of ALL air. Several running cycles will usually work the air out of the system on its own but not recommended to do, especially in hot summer heat.

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I guess I'm not following how you're saying I'm incorrect when you are reaffirming my points???

 

The point is, your method is terribly inefficient, and not the right way to do things. Why not just do it the easier, right way?

 

Squeezing the upper hose when the engine is warm or running will relieve some air in the system but will not rid the system of ALL air. Several running cycles will usually work the air out of the system on its own but not recommended to do, especially in hot summer heat.

 

As I said, 95%. And that's even if the engine is cold.

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The point is, your method is terribly inefficient, and not the right way to do things. Why not just do it the easier, right way?

 

 

 

As I said, 95%. And that's even if the engine is cold.

 

LOL I think you are misusing "right" and "inefficient". Not trying to troll. If the turbo coolant reservoir is completely dry then yes, it would be faster to pop the radiator cap and fill there first (as I previously stated). It doesn't mean that it is the "wrong" way like you are stating. You have to fill from the highest point in a coolant system if you want it full so no matter, you have to end with filling the turbo coolant reservoir before you fill the overflow tank, i.e. the right way.

 

As for removing air from the system, no certified mechanic is going to recommend you just squeeze the upper radiator hose to safely remove all the air from the coolant system, EVER and especially in the hot summer weather. Any air trapped in the system is going to cause inefficiency and magnified in extreme climates.

 

It may take longer but as I stated, you don't HAVE to fill from the radiator first. There is no interruption of coolant flow from the turbo coolant reservoir to the radiator.

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If the turbo coolant reservoir is completely dry then yes, it would be faster to pop the radiator cap and fill there first (as I previously stated). It doesn't mean that it is the "wrong" way like you are stating. You have to fill from the highest point in a coolant system if you want it full so no matter, you have to end with filling the turbo coolant reservoir before you fill the overflow tank, i.e. the right way.

 

I agree that you will have to fill the turbo coolant tank eventually. But filling the whole system from there is an exercise in frustration. Generally, if the temp gauge is rising above halfway, you need to add almost a whole gallon to bring it up to full. You really think that gallon should be added through the turbo coolant tank?

 

And I am not trying to troll either. I just think that it makes more sense to do things the easy way.

 

As for removing air from the system, no certified mechanic is going to recommend you just squeeze the upper radiator hose to safely remove all the air from the coolant system, EVER and especially in the hot summer weather. Any air trapped in the system is going to cause inefficiency and magnified in extreme climates.

 

Maybe it doesn't work in 120-degree heat, but it's fine in 90-degree heat. I know this from experience.

 

It may take longer but as I stated, you don't HAVE to fill from the radiator first. There is no interruption of coolant flow from the turbo coolant reservoir to the radiator.

 

Saying "there is no interruption" is misleading. Technically, it's true, but when there's just a thin hose going from the top of the coolant tank to the radiator, it's kind of silly to fill from there. It's a little like saying you should fill the engine oil through the oil galley plug on the top of the block. Yes, it will work, but why would you do that?

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I agree that you will have to fill the turbo coolant tank eventually. But filling the whole system from there is an exercise in frustration. Generally, if the temp gauge is rising above halfway, you need to add almost a whole gallon to bring it up to full. You really think that gallon should be added through the turbo coolant tank?

 

And I am not trying to troll either. I just think that it makes more sense to do things the easy way.

 

I never suggested filling the entire system from the turbo coolant reservoir. Best way to go about it is check the turbo coolant reservoir, if it is completely dry, check the radiator and add there first, then cap it off and top off the turbo coolant reservoir, then fill the overflow tank to half full when the engine is cold. If the engine is warm or running, fill the overflow reservoir to the full mark.

 

Saying "there is no interruption" is misleading. Technically, it's true

 

I don't see how this is "misleading". Technically, it's true, period and that's what I was identifying. It's a 5/8" hose that flows directly into the top of the radiator lol.

 

 

I go by the books that I learned from in hs/college and from my years experience as a mechanic. If you would like to nitpick, please go read a book :)

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The point they are all arguing is that any water cooling system is supposed to be filled from the highest point in the system. My 97 Outback had a piece that unscrewed next to the upper rad hose that served as the high point. On these it is the surge tank next to the turbo. The best way is overfill your overflow tank for the drive to work. Then check it before you leave work.

 

Let us know what you find when you get it all unbolted. I had an interga that had a slight leak for about 6 months. I never could figure out from where. Then I parked it when I left for basic training. While I was gone my wife wrecked her car and discovered a big crack in the top of my radiator. It wasn't big when I parked it.... I just had to put a new radiator in my '05. It failed catastrophically where the upper rad hose connects.

 

Damn plastic radiators:mad:

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