Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Track day photos of your lgt?


S13lgt

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Hey Gteaser, I've been to Sears a couple times and do love the carousel. Yah that combo of turns is my favorite going up the hill and back down into that straight, and is where I catch up / lose a lot of people.

 

That day with the NASCAR chute was a nice new experience, despite a stupid porsche driver leaking oil through 75% of the track and causing the track to close half the day. It reopened after lunch, and we got to drive the chute cuz the carousel had too much oil on it.

 

I've also driven it in an IS-F, did you go to the lexus event?

 

Infineon with the carousel:

[ame=

]
[/ame]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First time on the track. HPS pads were great for about 5 laps then significant fade. Pilot super sports were flawless.

 

 

That's about right for the HPS Pads. Should buy the HP+ pads for sale - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-wi-centric-brake-rotors-hawk-hp-pads-205897.html - a much better track pad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's about right for the HPS Pads. Should buy the HP+ pads for sale - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-wi-centric-brake-rotors-hawk-hp-pads-205897.html - a much better track pad.

 

I'm sure you are correct that the HP+ pads are good. I've always used Carbotech XP10 pads from www.brakeswap.com. No fade ever, and even with stock calipers and wide DOT track tires, I'm into the ABS at every corner entry. Can't ask for more than that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure you are correct that the HP+ pads are good. I've always used Carbotech XP10 pads from www.brakeswap.com. No fade ever, and even with stock calipers and wide DOT track tires, I'm into the ABS at every corner entry. Can't ask for more than that.

 

I quoted his post on purpose. ;) He/She is looking at their 2nd track day. If the HPS faded on first day, HP+ for next day or several is a reasonable upgrade.

 

 

For the experienced track rat, HP+ is not enough. The Carbotech vs Hawk vs Stoptech vs pad of the week holy war will continue forever. When I was looking for pads, Hawk was the only one listing pad temp ratings and everyone I was consulting used them. That was good enough for me. My Miata has 3 different brands of pads. All seem to fade at an equal rate, so me thinks, I should brake less and throttle more.

 

That said, adding brake cooling ducts will have a drastic effect on how soon your brakes fade. I know of track rats downgrading pads because their track pads never warmed up when using cooling ducts.

 

Lastly, as a certain level, the differences in tech are minimal. It becomes a brand preference & price question. When starting out, be sure to experiment with one change at time. Changing multiple items will not give you a reliable test. Also, do data logging to be sure you are actually comparing the same data (butt dyno lies). /soapbox

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking swapping pads for dedicated track pads next time. Seems anything designed for dual purpose is mediocre for each individual purpose... i.e. all season tires suck both in the summer and winter. Dedicated summer and winter is much better.

 

However, I would be interested in ducts as an alternative. I read several threads on the topic and didn't see an obvious choice. Did I miss an obvious solution/option??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Caveat: I never used any ducting (spend my money on extremely wide tires instead).

 

2nd Caveat: When you need brake ducts, you are really braking hard (maybe too hard). I invite you to read thru this thread - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hawk-hp-pads-wanted-203090.html. Putting in brake ducts, rather than upgrading to a higher-heat rated pads is a waste of money, then again, so are slotted & drilled rotors (people still do it).

 

the roo ducts by Randy Zimmer (website appears to be down) solution is probably the easiest to install. Though it works best to pop out your fog lights. Depending on how hot your brakes get (use a harbor freight infared temp gun), you might want to use brake ducting hose to direct the cooler air directly onto the rotors and hubs.

 

Pegasus, Summit, and many others have brake ducting hose for a wide variety of prices. Regardless of what you buy, be sure it handle being in bounced around in a high-heat environment.

 

Also, you'll need to modify the brake rotor backing plate to mount the hoses, too. KNS Brakes might be able to source this for you. Else, you can cut a hole in the plate and weld on a tube to fasten the hose to.

 

It sounds hokey because it's rarely done on a LGT, so there are no off-the-shelf parts. When I was contemplating doing this, I was having everything custom made - a spendy operation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Caveat: I never used any ducting (spend my money on extremely wide tires instead).

 

2nd Caveat: When you need brake ducts, you are really braking hard (maybe too hard). I invite you to read thru this thread - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hawk-hp-pads-wanted-203090.html. Putting in brake ducts, rather than upgrading to a higher-heat rated pads is a waste of money, then again, so are slotted & drilled rotors (people still do it).

 

the roo ducts by Randy Zimmer (website appears to be down) solution is probably the easiest to install. Though it works best to pop out your fog lights. Depending on how hot your brakes get (use a harbor freight infared temp gun), you might want to use brake ducting hose to direct the cooler air directly onto the rotors and hubs.

 

Pegasus, Summit, and many others have brake ducting hose for a wide variety of prices. Regardless of what you buy, be sure it handle being in bounced around in a high-heat environment.

 

Also, you'll need to modify the brake rotor backing plate to mount the hoses, too. KNS Brakes might be able to source this for you. Else, you can cut a hole in the plate and weld on a tube to fasten the hose to.

 

It sounds hokey because it's rarely done on a LGT, so there are no off-the-shelf parts. When I was contemplating doing this, I was having everything custom made - a spendy operation.

 

So am I hearing you say better money spent on dedicated track pads, wheels/tires and seat time (less dependence on brakes)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seat time, track pads, tires. In that order. Also, if you drive slower and smoother, items 2 & 3 last longer.

 

An LGT will reward smooth driving. If you don't have a data logger, get one (any smart phone will work, even one that's not hooked up to a celluar company). I used a LG P999 Android phone with aLapRecorder.net from ADyno.net for a 2 years before buying an AiM Solo II & GoPro2. aLapRecorder was $7. Solo II was $700 + $300 for the GoPro2. If you use a phone, mount it on the windshield just to the right of the rearview mirror (just below the tint).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good advice. I'd just add that when you go to dedicated track pads, it makes sense to include dedicated rotors that you switch with the pads for track days. Otherwise, you have to re-bed the pads to the rotors before each event. You can do that, but doing so introduces the possibility of screwing up the re-bedding process and ending up with a pulsing brake pedal all weekend. It also makes sense to bleed the system after you make the pre-event swap.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had dedicated pads and rotors, with everything labeled. So the pads were matched to the rotors. As you'll be taking the wheels off alot, get a 1/2 inch battery powered impact gun. Then get the torque bars from harbor freight. I used the 80lb bar and did final torque with the hand wrench.

As FPerron says, you'll want to be diligent on your brake bleeding, too. You're looking for the absolute best response from your braking system, so these steps are normal maintenance.

 

Also worth noting, in my experience, and yours maybe different, my wheel bearings started failing at an alarming rate - I had one set develop the groan of death after the first session. The OEM bearings have a 12 month/12000 mile warranty. Be sure you have tools and know how to swap them. I found the outer front bearing went first then the rear outer, front inner. By outer, I mean, if your track goes clockwise, then driver side. If counter clockwise, then passenger side. This may have been unique to me because of the extreme heat generated by braking. I asked Subaru road racing mechanics if they had same problem, they didn't, however, they do use brake duct cooling.

 

if you want an easy way to check for disc temperatures reached, you can get temperature sensitive paint to put on edge of rotors. The dba4000 rotors came with this. Should be able to buy from welding shop or amazon. Look up the heat range of your pads and paint for low middle, high, and overheated points.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use