Legasea

Have you checked the tire pressure ?

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/steering-wheel-wobble-over-bumps-285621.html

Always. I'm on top of that. I go to my local TireWarehouse and only put in nitrogen since buying them brand new off of TireRack last June.

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I've driven a first gen Tundra extensively and will say that steering weight and pedal feel is lighter than both my LGTs. Low end is also better on the Tundra but overall the LGT is much faster, even with the 5EAT. I haven't driven a pre-SI drive 5EAT so I'm not sure how they feel but on my 2007, somewhere between S and S# feels similar in response to my 5MT, but still a bunch slower.

 

As far as trucks go, I thought the Tundra was about the best balance between steering and pedal effort and feedback for that type of vehicle. Dodge's have underboosted brakes (very heavy) and good steering, GMs have overboosted steering and no pedal feel at all, and Fords I don't have much experience with.

 

Also, two LGTs can have significantly different steering feel. My 2005 steering is much lighter than my 2007, which is nice at low speeds but not so nice at highway speeds. This can be due to different brand ATF in the system, fluid condition and leaks and overall wear. Tires and wheels (if non-stock scrub radius) also make a difference.

 

Anyways, I don't think you will be able to get the sedan/sedan-based wagon to feel the same as a full sized SUV but you could replace the fluids to change steering and pedal feel and address any other leaks/wear in the rack, suspension, brake pads/discs and possibly suspension.

 

EDIT: my old co-worker had an upgraded clutch in his sedan and it was so heavy my kneecap popped out while driving it. My stock clutch feels pretty light (but not Honda Civic or VW Golf light). I actually stayed away from LGTs for years as a result of that experience, and was the reason I went with a 5EAT first, when I did eventually pick one up.

Lol is your username in reference to the band?!

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Can someone tell me where to get rainguards for 09 2.5i legacy?

 

 

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I've seen them at AutoZone and Advanced! They doooo sell them in store. I was considering getting these but because it's all window and no door frame, it would look pretty silly putting rain guards on the top part of the door lol. I def find myself gettin rained on when I stop and want my window open in the rain. If you buy them, let me know how it goes!

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I had something similar happen which turned out to be a loose castle nut on a front control arm. I would check your suspension fasteners and bushings.

Thank you kindly! Everyone that replied is a major help to fixing this problem. Can't thank you enough!

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I think she means bushings.

Hahaha. Sure did.

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I had the exact same issue on an R34 and it was bushes, it’s always the first thing I look for now.

No buckled wheel? Are they balanced? If not then have a look at bushes [emoji846]

 

 

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Bless your soul!!!! Definitely gonna take a gander. [emoji3590]

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I had a jeep and I spent way more time and $$ that I should have on that MF-ing thing.

 

Jeeps have death wobble because they develop an unwanted oscillation in the steering due to about 75 joints in the steering, poor maintenance, and wheels and tires that are too heavy for the undersized components when Billy-Bob-Jim-Joseph III puts 35s on his shit-box rusty 89 XJ with 250k miles blown shocks, a leaky steering stabilizer, and a disconnected swaybar, because "Jeep-life".

 

[ATTACH]290889[/ATTACH]

 

That is death wobble...

 

What you have is a worn-out steering component/bushing, and/or a unbalanced wheel. These cars have rack and pinion steering, jeeps have worn out steering gear boxes (yes every single one of them).

Thank you for this information! Also LOL at "billy bob jim joseph " [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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take a look at the front bushing on the lower control arm (LCA). My daughters car had similar death wobble. We did all the things focused around tire rotation/balance/etc......turned out to be the front bushing had deteriorated so much that the steel sleeve that goes around the securing bolt under high speed would move in the front LCA. To check it-- put a pry-bar on the front part of the LCA and see if you get any movement as you pry on the LCA. We had the bushing pressed out and new one installed--death wobble no more.

 

In the attached picture, the busing is labeled 9.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

This is awesome. Thank you!!!!

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I know Jeep's have this certain death wobble going on, but for Christ's sake I think I've got the same thing going on. When torquing trying to pass in a passing zone, I hit anywhere from 60-65 and get this terrible wobble. It happens at random speeds between 65 and 75 when hitting the highway and I'm kinda going around a curve. Anywhere from 60-80 there will be a random vicious shaking. I am not sure if this helps, but when I go over bumps they feel sensitive in the wheel. Like, if I hit a bump or pot hole, the wheel will go in that direction.

Keep in mind, when I'm driving through town she drives STRAIGHT as an arrow. I can let go of the wheel and she will NOT pull. When I'm on the highway though, she pulls a little bit(could be the road as well) because it won't happen all the time. I can let go and it is fine.

I was told by my local tire place that I go to religiously, after I got a balance(I assume a rotation as well, but making an ass out of u and me, I could be wrong) and the kid said there was a shimmying going on at the time with the front passenger wheel, so they rotated to the back.

I was already feeling the vibration and shake before they rotated, but it got worse when he put the shimmied rim on the rear passenger.

Not sure if this info helps, but I know I need a front piece of the cat because the precious owner tried straight piping it - didn't know til after I bought it. Not sure if that could factor into it as well. My dad suggested a broken transmission mount?? Possibly? We are going to check it out when the weather warms up in a week or so hopefully.

Until then, it is my daily driver and I try to be as careful as possible with her. She's just under 168k miles and has plenty of life left and I plan on taking care of her needs lol. Figured maybe someone could offer any amount of advice if they've experienced anything like this. Thank you in advance.

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Yeah, change the fluid at least 3x times if you are doing a drain and refill. That gets it like 80%+ renewed. One drain/fill is not enough to make a big difference. I would not use the stop slip additive. If it still slips then it needs a rebuild or replacement. These are not that expensive at a salvage yard.

I haven’t tried stop slip before. It doesn’t sound like your transmission is slipping. Keep in mind when you drain the transmission there’s a lot of fluid left over inside it does not come out. People have different opinions on doing a drain versus a flush. Personally, I found a shop that uses BG products and had the transmission flushed. It was night and day for me and worth $125 it cost. I think a lot of the arguments against flushing was due to the fluid being pushed back through the transmission and things getting clogged. There is also a transmission filter that should be changed if the fluid looked that bad. Just my thoughts, hopefully somebody else chips in. If it was me I would do a flush at a shop that uses BG products.

 

Also, do all the fluids if you don’t know when they were done last. Worth every penny for longevity.

Thank you! I look forward to getting every mile I can outta my baby.

Yeah, change the fluid at least 3x times if you are doing a drain and refill. That gets it like 80%+ renewed. One drain/fill is not enough to make a big difference. I would not use the stop slip additive. If it still slips then it needs a rebuild or replacement. These are not that expensive at a salvage yard.

Thank you for the advice, dude. My dad has said it's just the overdrive is what is happening. If that makes sense and sounds normal, then I should be fine doing the drain 3 more times. We added a singular bottle of stop slip initially back in July. I appreciate the reply !

The 09 Legacy sedan I purchased, I assume, did not have regular fluid maintenance because my oil change looked like chocolate syrup.

I found when letting off the gas, the gears weren't smoothly shifting as they should.

Example, when I'm going about 40-45 down a hill and i lightly have my foot on the gas to keep momentum(my commute to work is hilly, maybe this is why, but it does the same "motion" when im going on a straight-away).

I did a transmission drain(not a flush) back in July and it helped some, but now I see I'm dealing with the same situation. It's gotten cold out from living in New England. Maybe this is the reason, but I don't quite know and would like some insight if I may. When doing the flush, the fluid was veeery dark and not a nice bright red. I filled her up with about 3 quarts of Royal Purple and a 4th qt of Lucas Stop Slip.

My main inquiry was about doing another drain, but should I use another bottle of stop slip in doing so? Or only straight Royal Purp(my preference)? Sorry for the dumb question. My father is a backyard mechanic but I wanted to get another opinion as well before spending the money and time in doing this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.