outbacksoutback

I pulled the pan and intake today... no doubt everything is dirty Clutch kit also came in today, but I am waiting on the TP50 to come in still. I did manage to turn the flywheel to line up the bolts with the openings. Here is the Sachs DMFW vs the Exedy SMFW Engine on the stand: From what I was told, the timing was last done at 175k miles. It does have a gates belt in decent shape. Accessory belts were also gates, which I already took and put on my other outback. This hose on the passenger valve cover was already off, and looked like it has been for a while. This hose was dry and snapped. Also note the dead animal(?) that was under the intake by the coolant crossover. Pan removed:

I have read this, and I do have a new updated 07+ oil pan, windage tray, dipstick tube, and a moroso oil pickup... I understand replacing these parts is the correct procedure, however for parts like the pan and windage tray I feel like it is possible to get them clean enough to reuse? I mean the windage tray is not a complex part... It also appears my car already has the updated pan on it...

I definitely am planning on cleaning the engine/oil passages as well as I can. This is my first turbo Subaru so there is a little bit of a learning curve. I have seen conflicting info on the oil cooler, some sources say replace after turbo failure, some say it can be cleaned? I welcome any input/advice on the whole process!

The car did drive on and off the trailer with good oil pressure, so my guess was that I lost a turbo. This theory turned out to be correct. There was still a vf40 in the car, shaft was VERY loose and the fins had crashed into the housing, oil all over in the down pipe. Long story short I ordered a bunch of parts, went back to work for a few weeks, now it is March and I am on a temporary layoff from work due to COVID19... So I guess it is time to get to work on the Outback! I purchased a used invidia catless up pipe and a seemingly new VF46 from ebay to start Old turbo/up pipe next to the new turbo/up pipe: Engine out: Pile of parts: The car had a Sachs clutch with a dual mass flywheel in it. I have never seen a dual mass flywheel before and am at a loss for how to get to the flywheel bolts, as they are partially covered?? Also from my understanding the Sachs may be OEM? Regardless, the clutch was in need of replacement... Exedy clutch kit with a SMFW is on the way.

I decided to drive the car for a while before tearing into it, to see what it may or may not need... however the car was due for an oil change soon, and I was uncomfortable with it as is. The previous owner had been doing 5k mile intervals of full synthetic oil, and the car was about 4k miles into the oil change when I started driving it... Both outbacks together: Modifications the car had upon purchase: COBB lightweight crank pulley K&N cold air intake Boost/oil pressure gauge COBB access port (found in glove box after purchase) After driving the car for a few days and showing it off to my friends (plus getting stuck in a snowy ditch trying to free up my friends car after he missed a driveway and got stuck) the clutch started to slip during pulls. I plugged in the access port and checked the tune, turns out the nice lady I bought the car from had been driving around on a "Stage 2" tune targeting 17psi while making her scone deliveries... that explains why the car pulled so hard! I loaded the Stage 1 tune targeting 15psi and continued driving the car, no more slip! Bonus points if anyone can name the location: A few more interior pics: After loading the stage 1 tune, I was getting a P0420 code for cat efficiency, which was not a major concern for me. One night driving home from work, the car hesitated during a pull and made a very strange noise. I stupidly did not check the codes and kept driving. The next morning after another 100 miles of driving, I pulled off the freeway on my commute, and suddenly I heard what sounded like rocks in a washing machine from the engine bay. I pulled into a hotel parking lot, checked my codes and had P0011 P0022 codes. At this point I parked the car, went inside and got a hotel room for the next two nights (this was on a Thursday). I made the 3 hour journey to my parents house Friday after work, picking up my other outback along the way. That Saturday morning my dad and I drove 3 hours to the hotel, picked up the car, and trailered it 3 hours home to the garage where we have parked all of our previous Subarus after catastrophic failure

Hi everyone, new member here! I just picked up a new used outback to replace my old one (this is my 4th subaru), and it has turned into project so I have decided to start a thread for it. Anyways... For reference this is my previous vehicle, a 2000 Outback 5mt all weather package, black interior. purchased with 198k miles, at the time of this post it has 294k, and it driven 130 miles per day round trip for my work commute. BC Racing BR coilovers, modified stromung catback exhaust, amazon UEL, ebay short throw, H6 11.4in front rotors, longblock from a 2001 2.5rs (rebuilt by a Subaru specialty shop). Summer mode: Winter mode: I drove about 2 hours across the state to purchase the new outback on Feb 19th. The car was posted on craigslist for $2500 with 228k miles by the 2nd owner, a nice older lady. She had owned the car for the past 5 years/50k miles and used it to deliver scones for her business. I met her in the morning, gave her asking price, drove the car to Mejier and bought some oil to add, then drove it 130miles straight to work, and 60 miles home after work that day... Here is the car on the drive home the day I bought it: The car pulled VERY HARD during the test drive, but had a pretty decent vibration under load. There were a few small dents in the front driver side fender from the previous owner hitting a massive pot hole, which lead to the front struts being replaced. The rear struts are still shot of course, and the car rides about 2in higher in the front More photos shortly after purchase: