Candy

You seriously need to open your mind and consider alternatives. If everyone thought that way, we's still be "bleeding" sick people to remove toxins from their blood.

I appreciate the helpful feedback, as opposed to the members who think their way is the only way and they have to school me with profanity. Open your mind a little.

OK, OK I'm pulling the engine.

Don't judge, I don't have the money to send them to the machine shop, and the heads are not warped. Not everyone has a garage with an engine lift and all the tools in the world. I'm struggling to pay rent.

I am replacing head gaskets on my 2000 Outback and with some fidgiting and twisting and cursing and laying on top of the engine I actually got both heads out WITHOUT pulling the engine. Does anyone else have any experience with this? I am disassembling the head, cleaning the gasket surface with several passes of wd-40 soaked sandpaper glued down to an old marble counter top, cleaning all parts, checking foe any wear, and re assembling with lube. I'm pretty close to being able to put the engine back together. Does anyone have any words of experience or wisdom to impart?

I was going to drive it, just wanted to prove him wrong and FOS (full of shit) Thanks!!!

We had a wicked spring snow storm here in Northern Colorado and a big 'ol tree landed on my 2000 Bu. I did not have insurance that would cover this. The engine is out right now, I am rebuilding the heads. It is parked on a friend's private property. He is telling me the frame is bent and I should part it out. I think the motivation is to have me pay for half of his $1000 homeowners deductable (He had some big table saws crushed by the same tree. All of the doors open an close fine. No damage on the interior (intrusion) I think it is safe to drive. I want to put a new rack on, fill in the dent and paint. What do you guys think?

Totally satisfying in these uncertain times. Thanks for the support. I was going to post a pic of the inner tie rod. The top of is is slightly bent. I think the Strut is OK. We'll see once I get the engine back together and take it for a ride.

I finally got the correct control arm and finished the job. I'll try to align it, I did my best to maintain the same length from the previous tie rod, which was also bent. I am posting completed photos and some a comparison shot of bent and "straight" control arms.

with the tire rubbing the back of the wheel well

Finished!!! After they sent the wrong control arm, I finally got the right one. I installed it, along with inner and outer tie rods and the ball joint. After inspecting the parts I took out, the inner tie rod was also bent. I am posting an interesting side by side of the old and replacement control arms, and an after of the completed repair.

Oh and doublechaz, yes, the woman driving it walloped the curb. I am replacing the ball joints. It seems with that much damage (the control arm is almost bent in half) other stuff had to be bent too. I'm going to replace the tie rods and control arm on the drivers side as well.

Quick update, got every thing apart, now waiting for parts. They sent the wrong control arm. Waiting for the right one to come! Should be March 31.

Yota and Bu?

Since my last post we've had a dip in the temps and snow. There will be a break in the action. I did get new tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. And a new boot for the inner tie rod. The old boot was torn. Also the boot an the ball joint was torn. So after I get the passenger side squared away, i'll replace the ball joint on the driver's side. Thanks for all the input. I feel empowered!

Hi all, Update to my previous post "2000 Strut, tie rod, control arm replacement" regarding control arm replacement. After considering valuable input from doublechaz, then pulling the wheel and getting a better look my control arm is crunched. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, bought some tools and took the plunge. The bent control arm pushed the wheel back, pushed the tie rod into the sway bar and shifted some other things that made removing these parts difficult, but with some elbow grease and help from Pipi the cat, I'm making progress. I decided to replace the inner and outer tie rods, the ball joint and control arm. I'm not convinced the tie rods are bent after removing them, but I'll compare them to the new ones, which should arrive in a few days. This is a fun project so far, mostly because I've been successful and feel supported by fellow Subaru lovers. Thank you all the the support!

Thanks, I ordered the control arm, it should arrive Wednesday. We'll see how installation goes. I'll inspect the other parts.

I jiggled the fuse, as a 1st intervention, and now both key fobs work!

Thanks ya’ll. I’ll get on this tomorrow and post how things turn out. Since I replaced the actuator in the drivers door when I got the car (it was a royal pain in the ass!) I really want to get this fixed. And I can’t pay a dealer $500 to fix it. I won’t! It’s not rocket science, and I appreciate this forum, and the input I get from those with experience. Thank you!

Where is it? Both my remotes stopped working, new batteries, and the actuators are working, so I'm guessing its the control module, but where is it? Thanks all!

Can you recommend a supplier for the control arm and bushings?

Prize for whoever can diagnose from these photos!

Hi all, I just scored a 2000 Outback Wagon Sportsman edition for $350. It's a project. It has front end issues (passenger side tire rubbing wheel-well after owner's wife hit a curb) and an impending need for new head gaskets. Timing belt, water pump and alternator are new. I'm going to pull the wheel and see what's bent. After sorting out the front end I'm going to attempt pulling the motor to replace head gaskets. I'll be sending it out to be re surfaced and tested. Question is, where is the best place to buy parts? Has anyone replaced struts, tie rods or control arms before? And what other damage should I look for? And does anyone know what the "Sportsman" editions means as far as options. It's loaded with heated seats, electric everything, block heater. Any other perks?

Replaced the driver's side actuator. What a pain in the ass. I am a petite flower (5' 110 lbs). I don't know how normal sized peeps can do it. I scraped up my knuckles, bleed on my new car, but finally got it done. Had to take out the window and the track. So thankful for the posted videos and instructions. Saved me $400, which is what the dealer wanted to do this.

The drivers door does "click" when I hit the fob unlock button. I guess ill just take it apart and see if the cables are intact. anything else I should look for?