fehler1977

Here's the timing belt DIY, You can find a link to my thread in there too from back in the day...Sept 08 see post 13. my thread shows the guides he's talking about, in the 5th photo.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html

 

 

Once again, the great folks at the Subaru legacy chat room have come through strong for me. Sorry for the delayed response but this is perfect for the repair job. Again, cheers and thanks for everything.

 

 

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Greetings all. I recently ran across the discovery that my water pump needs to be replaced on my 05 Legacy GT. I’m reading a lot of places that this is going to also involve removing the timing belt. Are there any special tools I need for this project? Any sort of pitfalls I need to watch out for? I bought the pump but that’s about it.

 

 

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are you talking about the recovery tank next to the fan?

 

 

Yes. That’s the one. It has a minimax on it and I always have a tendency to fill it over the max.

 

 

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This may seem like a silly question but I’ve always wondered this. On the coolant reservoir tank – is it detrimental to fill it up past the maximum line on the tank? Will it cause any sort of cooling issues down stream?

 

 

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Blend door makes weird noises when bad clicking humming etc.

Another problem I’ve had before is first starting up my car it did make a gurgling sound. This was from not being completely bled. Subarus can be a little pain to get all the air out if not done right.

 

 

Wanted to give everyone an update. Come to find out, it was a combination of a couple of things. Number one, the radiator cap was bad and it was not allowing the coolant system to remain under pressure to prevent the “boiling / bubbling” condition I was hearing. Secondly, with the boiling point being too low, it was forcing water out of the top of the radiator cap and that’s why I was losing all of my water.

 

Thanks everyone. It’s worth noting that those little radiator caps can make or break a motor when it comes to overheating. I would replace him even if you don’t think that you need to if they’re very old. They’re less than seven or eight bucks a pop and there’s one for the turbo and one for the main radiator. 20 bucks could save you your engine.

 

 

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When did you hear it? Was it just after shutting it off?

 

Coolant continues to circulate through the turbo after shutdown and it can make some noise.

 

 

Yes I can only hear it when the engine is off. You guys may be right it may be something to do with the coolant circulation after shut down. However, where would the coolant be going? It’s still using up coolant somehow throughout this process. About a gallon every other day. That’s quite a bit

 

 

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Are you sure it’s actually a coolant-related thing? My LGT wagon makes a bubbling noise when I turn the car off because the climate vent actuator on the passenger side has gone bad.

 

Beyond that, I’m assuming you’ve burped the car on a hill to get the air all out?

 

 

Yes sir. I’ve burped her good. Maybe it’s a bad radiator cap not allowing the system to remAin under pressure???? I’ve heard that can lead to some blown head gasket’s and overheating issues.

 

 

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Greetings my brothers and sisters of the divine order of the legacy GT brotherhood. So the other day I heard a peculiar bubbling/boiling water type of noise coming from my engine bay area. The car is not overheating, yet I do get a hint of antifreeze from time to time. I can’t say that it’s losing coolant or anything like that and it’s not running funny. I replaced both cooling reservoir caps on the radiator and the turbo auxiliary tank. Does anyone have any ideas what this may be a result of? I just don’t want it to lead to an overheating issue. Thanks. Oh yes, and I replace the thermostat as well. About a week ago.

 

 

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https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p9.html

 

see post # 327.

 

I think that's cheap and easier then removing the T stat.

 

Are your fans working when they should ?

Yes fancy and recycling on perfectly. It was, in fact, the radiator. It was just time to get a new one. Thank you for all your great advice 3rd. Much appreciated

 

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Run the car until it’s fully up to temp, let the fans cycle on and off a few time to be sure. Shut it OFf, then try and reach through the fans and feel the face of the radiator from top to bottom, if there are any cold sections it’s time to replace it.

 

If it’s sporadic and not related to heat load it could be something else. Some cars benefit from being nose up (ramps or jack stands) while burping air from the system. Though I find that turbo cars with the high mounted tank don’t really need this. Has the water pump been replaced (hopefully when the timing belt was done)?

It was, in fact, the radiator. The car has 210000 miles on it now and that was the original radiator. Best of my knowledge anyhow. I'd say that's pretty good. Thanks for the Pearls of Wisdom

 

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Does anyone know if it would hurt to temporarily remove the thermostat from my 2005 Legacy GT? I'm trying to chase down a overheating issue right now and I want to remove the thermostat so it's running nice and cool while I'm in the middle of trying to figure out where the overheating is coming from. I believe it's just an old radiator and the radiator needs to be replaced. However, I don't know that for sure. I wanted to remove the thermostat temporarily and run it for a bit to keep it cool while I was facing down the overheat issue. Does anyone see any problem in doing that?

 

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Has the radiator ever been replaced? How many miles on the car/rad?

 

Is it worse when the weather is warmer, going uphill or when the A/C is on? Does the temp go down if you turn the heater on full blast?

 

Radiators are a wear item, especially in subarus, the cross tubes get build up on the inside, sometimes to point of completely clogging. I had to replace the rad in my spec B at about 250K, even with occasional flushing and always running clean quality coolant they have a lifetime. Mine was around 50% plugged by the time I pulled it, only passing coolant through a few tubes at the top and bottom, the center was stone cold after running the car. I have seen the same issue on most of the (high mileage) Subarus I've owned.

 

Gary

Hey Gary. Thanks for the feedback. It's very sporadic. It doesn't always do it when the AC is on, and it doesn't always do it with the engine under heavy load. It's kind of Hit and Miss really. I have not been able to correlate engine speed or air-conditioning functionality to the overheating issue. The car has 210000 miles on it now and it's probably the original radiator. You're probably right. I believe the radiator may need to be replaced. I just wasn't sure if there was another temperature module or relay or something that might need to be checked before replacing the radiator

 

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What is the current coolant level in the overflow tank, when the car is cold ?

 

Are both fan's working ?

Hey there. Current cooling level with the engine cold is in between the min in the max in the reservoir tank. I haven't had to add any more coolant to it after I flushed it and replace the thermostat. And yes, both fans are working, however, they don't both always run. One of them will run when the car is this that normal operating temperature, then when the AC cuts on, they both turn on pretty high. I think they're cycling on as required. What is the fan speed procedure the verify they are running properly?

 

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Greetings everyone. Have a quick question. My 05 Subaru Legacy GT is running hot from time to time. Never into the red, but dangerously close. I've noticed that it doesn't more frequently when the air conditioner is on, but that's not always the case. I replace a thermostat and flush the cooling system out.... and yes I removed all the air that I could out of the radiator system. Any other ideas on how this overheating event might be happening?

 

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if you can get the car fully up on jack stands or on a lift and have someone put the car in gear and recreate the nose, you can be under the car with a screwdriver to your ear listening to the diff and trans to see if you can isolate the noise. this works for wheel bearings too. just be carful of the moving parts. if you dont feel comfortable doing this, you can have a shop do an hr of diag time to do it for you.

I do have access to a vertical lift, however, I'm not familiar with the screwdriver procedure that you speak of. Can you elaborate a little further?

 

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control arms are cheap. just replace the arms. a quick search on rockauto.com shows that you wont be spending much more than $70 per arm depending on which ones you are replacing.

Yes sir. Good advice. Was bushings in the rear suspension are worn the hell out I didn't realize how bad they were until I looked at them

 

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Not to sound this way but wouldn't you just rebuild the entire unit while you're in there....? Does it matter if just one bearing is bad. The rest are probably not far behind due to lack of fluid changes most likely.

 

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I thought about driving it around for a little bit and then checking the temperature at you bearings in both the transmission in the differential. You think that would provide some data? You think that if there's an excessive heat buildup at those locations at maybe the culprit?

 

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Also, are you sure its the diff and not the trans, or the driveshaft center support bearing?

No, I'm not sure. However, that's my whole question here. How do I tell whether it's the differential, versus transmission. It's definitely not the center propeller shaft and those carrier bearings there. I just recently replace that whole assembly

 

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Yeah you are correct. If it is, in fact, the differential bearings, I would do all the bearings while I had it down and cracked open. But what I was referring to is isolating the problem from the transmission bearings versus the differential bearings. I just recently replaced the center propeller shaft so that is not the root cause. I acquired the car at 150k, in the fluids were in good shape when I got the car. I've maintained a fairly regular maintenance cycle on all parts, so I think it's just a matter of time before these things go. It's got almost 200,000 miles on it now

 

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So far, all the advice I've gotten from this form has been spot-on. Right now you guys are 10 for 10 call respective to the advice given to my problems. So let's see if we can do 11 for 11. I continue to have a small to moderate humming noise coming from the rear end of the car. It's neither wheel bearing, so isolated it to the bearings in the differential. My question is this. Is there a way you can isolate or determine which one of the bearings is actually bad?

 

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responded to your other post.

 

if you post multiple times, the solution is still the same

Yes sir. Thank you for the heads up. Haha. That was done by accident. I thought that the post add to be deleted but I just had overlooked it

 

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Who's they?

If in USA, take to any firestone shop and ask for lifetime alignment.

 

None of the things you replaced have anything to do with camber. You might stick your phone under the rear end and snap sone pics. It's likely your rear suspension components are completely worn out or you bought it from a wanna-be ricer who added aftermarket suspension bits and messed with the camber. Regardless, its an easy adjustment.

Firstly make sure your rear suspension bushings are in good shape, especially the upper control arm inner bushing. These are notorious to wear out and can cause excessive negative camber.

 

Secondly, I have the same problem on my car, but only on the right side. I haven't been able to figure out why without throwing parts at it. I suspect it's either the knuckle or upper control arm that might be slightly bent. I don't know what the above poster is talking about that it's an easy adjustment. There is no rear camber adjustment from the factory, only toe, which has a slight influence on camber but nowhere near that much.

Good evening. Yes, it was a suspension issue. Bushing for just worn the hell out. Can you just buy the bushings without having to replace the whole control on or is it best just to replace all the suspension component?

 

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Does anyone know where I be causing these tires to have inward camber as seen in this photo? I replace both shocks, both wheel bearings, still nothing

 

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Get an alignment. That should be step 1.

Yes, however, I saw that they would not touch an alignment job before addressing any sort of suspension issues that might be present. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. The front ones are fine, it's just the rear ones are pointed inwards. It almost looks like it's been tuned for racing suspension or something

 

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So I've been chasing down this issue for about a month now. It all started when I noticed the wheels were slightly tilted inward. Almost looks like the rear suspension have been tuned. Please see picture. I thought maybe that slant was due to the wheel bearing being worn out or something. However, I replace both wheel bearings now and that did not fix the issue. Then I thought maybe it was the shock and struts. Replace both struts as last weekend. Still have camber in the rear tires. I'll also replace the drive shaft or propeller shaft going back to the pumpkin. That didn't help either. So now I've got these tires that won't line up parallel with the front tires, and it's causing severe where is shoes on the inside of the tires, as you can imagine. Or smile, I'm starting to hear a growling noise coming from the pumpkin area, or differential, of the rear end. It's very subtle but it's there. I have a feeling the noise is coming from these tires not being perfectly straight. Nonetheless, I need to get them straight. Any ideas on how to get them lined up with the front?

 

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