pdXammo

If you like sand sports I'll trade you a rail worthy of tearing it up out at Glamis.

thicker crown is equivalent to a harder head. Boosted engines put more heat into top of piston and the top ring. If the top is closer to top of piston there's less support which has higher likelihood of failure.

 

Wiseco has a nice blog on pistons.

 

To be fair, an oem setup that's well cared runs 200k miles. An oem setup that's beat on doesn't. Once you start modifying, your engine's lifetime is reduced often substantially. The more structural support you build in, the longer the system lasts before failure. Or you can rebuild every 400miles like WRC rally and build a 600hp grenade.

 

Ringland failure is purported to be from the top ringland being too thin to handle high boost levels. Going to forged pistons reduces this failure percentage. There are many other factors in play too: gas quality, tune, temperatures, fuel injectors, knock management, etc.

 

Once you get past the oem parts list and tune, parts selection and tuning support become critical. Having reasonable expectations helps alot too. Building a 1000hp dd that's flogged once a week at one off ramp is going to have a different life expectancy than a 350hp track toy that is beat all day saturday.

 

The intersecting curves of reduced forged lifespan and ringland stress on cast pistons is where the question here lies. Basically how efficacious is the 2mm thicker crown? It's a fairly new development so we may have to see for adequate evidence.

I showed you this up-pipe from my collection. https://www.cobbtuning.com/cobb-history-inconel-up-pipe/

 

PPG upgrade? Its $$$$$$$$...$$$$. Obviously this link is crazy money but you get the idea: https://www.ppgearbox.com/product-page/subaru-6-speed-sequential-gear-system-2. . They also make gear sets for the 5mt and 6mt that are not sequential.

Holy ____ that's a lot of money... I'd bet Weddle or someone makes some hardened gears for these things...

Thanks, it takes some pretty serious telephoto glass to compress the distance so the Needle and city don't look tiny. The last frame was with a 300/2.8 There was a bunch of stuff in the way, I couldn't find my damn tripod and an impatient gf involved or I'd have pushed in a little deeper but, this was just a first try.

Tried for some shots today. First time shooting a car like this. I'll give er a go again sometime soon.

I did not realize there was such a thing as a set of 6, sorry about that.

Sorry, confinement is taking it's toll. I'm interested. PM coming.

A set of six!

Looks great!

I've got you. Nearly new KYB's springs... You want stock or lowering?

What is a inconel uppipe?

What is the ppg upgrade for a 6mt?

I can get the 10103AD020 short block for 1720 if peeps need to order it. I set some sourcing up through my business. I'm curious as to what extent the thicker crown is a benefit.

I accidentally purchased JDM Bilstein GT struts and Legacy wagon pinks if anyone is interested....

bump

You know from what I've seen, pulling the bushings out of a used one looks like a nightmare and you have to buy the bushings too. The cost of the new one seems a bargain...

Let me know what you need to finish your black interior. I've got a whole black interior here I'm about to pull out of a car.

Pretty much sourced everything I need to make this wagon a roller; and its about time I get my dining room back to functional status.

 

This weekend my girlfriend and I got a significant amount of work done on the project, which is impressive since I've been completely limited to one arm activities. Needless to say, she did most of the work... Day 1: we got the rear brake hard lines installed; all new Subaru lines for the whole vehicle. Then came the new replacement fuel tank, including all new hoses. Still missing a discontinued bracket for the pressure control valve on the back of the tank, and waiting on a clamp for the charcoal canister hoses, but those can be installed at a later date. Finally we fitted the new rear subframe in place. Worked for about 5 hours Saturday and really enjoyed ourselves.

 

I am really thankful for your documentation of this project. I have a similar build happening right now and am sitting at the torn off point and was wondering how to proceed through the prep of the underside and fuel tank. I think after seeing this the fuel tank is coming out.

Can you tell about where and how much you acquired the tank for?

You mentioned the undercoat was a good alternative to oil-based? What is the benefit there? Safer to put on? Does oil-based work better?

You got "new" subframes? Are they actually NOS or are they good used ones?

I have broken down two more Legacy for fun and profit and have a warehouse (not auto related but, I use to store personal stuff too), I also have powder coating as an integral part of my vocation. If you ever need rando parts like that fuel tank bracket, let me know, I don't need to sell parts like these and if you or any other member ever needs something like that I'd be happy to send it or have it coated and sent for shipping and coating costs.

 

Great build and thanks again for all the great pics.

PS do you happen to have part #'s for the brakelines and what was the judgment on replacing them? Rusty? I don't have rust on mine, should I just leave them?

While you have the passenger side of the dash ripped out, now is the chance to 'easily' replace any a/c mode actuators that might be making the coffee percolating noise

Holy shit, I never knew what that was LOL

I just received one of these RA blocks too. Similar goal setting. Following.

I need these.

For what year? I need them for a 5th gen. Just realized I didn’t put that in the post

 

5th gen. theyv are bilstein jdm gt with sti pinks

Have OBP wingless 05 don't need one back.

I've got a full set of JDM gt struts with STI pinks on them.

Just the top hat or the whole strut?

I like all of this. I'd have bought the hell out of this for $5000 CAD too. GL