helpfulNeighbor

FIXED

I finally was able to finish my neighbor's '95 legacy wagon.

I ended up using a '96 strut and a decent knuckle/hub from a '95. I guess I had waited someone else out long enough for them to send their vehicle to the local u-pull-it.

Now she has working ABS again and a not-broken coil spring.

TIPS:

• 
  Homemade 'schmutz'/'cool-aid'/'whatever-you-or-someone-else-called-it'--- literally 50/50 mixture of any typical transmission fluid and 100% acetone. That's it just mix and shake vigorously like salad dressing and use on rusted up, rusted together, or stuck bolts and tools. The idea goes that there is a conversion of the rust chemically and what-not. I can't remember whom I viewed the video of showing this but it is on the internet. It works better than PB blaster. Make sure to use brake cleaner to remove any excess when you are done from any areas where lubricant would be bad; like lug nut studs/lug nuts, rotor, brake pads (why would you use it there? ha ha ha), axle nut threads, etc.
  

• 
  Having trouble getting that axle back through the hub? Try carefully using a small block of wood or rubber right behind the CV boot where it attaches to the metal part (the rim) and tap with a 3lb sledge and then the other side, back and forth, until you can get the axle nut on the threads enough to just pull the axle back through.
  

Well kudos to you for helping out. Pulling older rusty cars apart is always a nail biter. Heres to hoping for good bearings and a smooth process ahead of you.

Thank you. The bearing seemed good no real debris. Almost looked like it might have been redone. The seal was in remarkably good shape.

...I had been to the point of installing the axle back into the hub.

Major slow down in time.

I have it all lined up (splines) and part way in and it isnt't budging too well. I am really pulling (pushing) the axle back in with just a little bit of wiggle that is there. Very slow and very tough, should it be the case? I used a little bit of clean oil after the first time I tried and did get a a tiny bit further. The end of the axle is still about a 1/4" below the seat of where the axle nut rests.

It is lined up and not going in cock-eyed-- I made damn sure of that from the beginning.

Are there any tricks to help speed this up a little bit?

I was working on her car today. My neighbor is a very nice woman-here's what I mean: she actually pulled into the driveway today and apologized for her car being such a pain in the a$s to work on. I had to smile and let her know that it is no problem and that it is expected with all the rust and it being a '95.

I read your story.

 

If you're trying to be a good neighbor and wanting to do this on the cheap please stick with OEM parts. Don't buy the ebay quick struts or anything like that. I don't know your budget but I always recommend against putting junk on a car to be "cheap": I've learned that lesson repeatedly throughout my life.

 

The 98-99 assemblies will work 100% on your ride. Is it possible the car will have a slight 1/2" lift? Definitely. Does it matter? Your call...

 

I see you broke a spring and that is likely a combo of fatigue/age and being in PA with rust. If you try to source used parts locally, definitely inspect them as much as possible - look for powder coating peeling from the coil springs themselves or any bare metal exposed on them to indicate possible failure. Better yet, buy used from ANY part of the country that doesn't have rust if you can afford the shipping.

 

Consider merging your threads into one as well so those trying to help/assist can easily follow your progress and all pertinent questions stay organized.

Thank you for reading my story and for your response noahrexion, appreciate it.

I understand your poinjt of view. While working on her vehicle and getting underneath it and such it is very well rusted. Yes, PA salt. I wouldn't be sure it would have anything left to drive in a couple to a few years. That is why I was considering the ebay solution.

As it is she's at $30 for a knuckle because the ABS tone wheel is shot on hers. And $30 for a strut assembly, both from the u-pull it yard. The used strut assembly is from a '96.

If this takes care of the no ABS (abnormal signal, good wires and sensor), then I will talk her into buying the new coil and renting the tool and reusing her strut.

She has paperwork from a national chain that says they did struts in 2014. I see a date on the strut of 2009 so they must have. Although the top hat (?) where the bearing is located isn't so great and obviously the coil broke.

Appreciate your more specific insight into those 1998-1999 coils and ride height differences as well as your life lesson.

Hello I have found a pair of decent priced strut assemblies on ebay.

Shockmaster is the brand?

Anyone heard of the quality or have experience in them?

What is the difference in the actual coil for the front struts?

What changed with the coil from 1995 to 1998-1999?

The struts and mounts are the same and only the coils differ.

I found 1998-1999 assemblies but are told they are not compatible with the 1995 Legacy AWD wagon L trim. Yet I get no explanation.

I would love to know exactly what is different and would be gratefull to anyone that can point out the reason.

I would be great to throw those 1998-1999 assemblies on her car for her and get it back to her.

For the rest of the story:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2000-legacy-front-strut-assembly-work-1995-legacyi-280489.html

Probably not hurt the alignment but I'm not the expert.

 

The Subaru FRONT struts have a camber adjustment bolt on the TOP strut bolt. If you mark its orientation (I like to take a punch/chisel and mark the bolt at the 12:00 position - if use a marker and then have to use PB Blaster or similar to get it loose you'll lose your mark). If you put the bolt back in the same spot, your alignment will be really close, from my experience.

 

Also, I'd just get another front set of struts from a '95-'99 Legacy or get the 'lift' from a '96-'99 Legacy Outback. The original struts seem to last. If you're in the yard and see one w/the silver/gray colored struts those might be KYB replacements, which should be factory quality.

 

You can also use '98-'08 Forester struts, which will give you a lift but may end up with a 'saggy butt' (yeah, that's a thing ). See how the front has more space between fender and top of the tire than the rear.

 

 

Stock camber bolts:

Thank you again wtdash, the link provided by you was an interesting read.

Also, I am aware of the camber adjustment bolt and did mark it already. I just wasn't sure if there would be enough adjustment in the bolt to dial out any extra misalignment from the 2000 strut.

I called a place about 40 miles away and the guy says he has a '96. I am going to call him back and find out the condition and if he has both.

(If it was my car I would just go with the 2000 struts and see what happens).

Again I do appreciate that you have been taking your time to help us out.

UPDATE: Drove the 40 miles and nothing was useable.

Struts should fit 'as is'. And if it's a non-outback may be OK for height (no lift like an Outback would).

 

But, not something I've come across. I'd do some more searching.

Thank you wtdash for your time and your reponse. Much appreciated!

That is what I was thinking as well.

If it were the Outback model in the yard, and I placed them for the front, would it cause problems while leaving the rear stock? (ie., would it throw alignment off enough to eat the tires?).

Or would it just look odd with the body raised in the front?

(if just looks odd then it might not be so bad because in the town where the car is driven, the road dept thinks it is OK to leave 12inch snow berms in the intersections while plowing, lol)

New info and spec comaprison at the end...

Have a 1995 Legacy Wagon L AWD with ABS.

The driver's side coil broke when the ball joint popped free using the ball joint separator.

I found a nice lloking set of front struts in local pull-it yard but they are on a 2000 legacy wagon.

They look close in match except for the brake hose mount and where the ABS sensor line gets mounted to strut. I think I can work around that.

Are they equivalent otherwise?

Yes I did read all the threads using search '1995 legacy strut'.

Thanks very kindly in advance.

I am fixing this for my 72yr old neighbor on fixed income. Please help....

------new info ------------

So I went to Rockauto and compared specs as much as possible.

The 1995 struts have the following numbers:

Extended length: monroe-20.75 inches, osc- 20.67 inches

Compressed length: monroe- 14.125 inches, osc- 14.17 inches

Travel length (stroke): monroe- 6.625 inches, osc- 6.5 inches

The 2000 legacy outback struts have the following numbers:

Extended length: monroe- 21.614 inches, osc- 21.73 inches, gabriel- 21.73 inches, kyb- 21.65 inches

compressed length: monroe- 15.709 inches, osc- 15.51 inches, gabriel- 15.75 inches, kyb- 16.1 inches

travel lenght (stroke): monroe- 5.905 inches, osc- 6.22 inches, gabriel- 5.98 inches, kyb- 5.55 inches

The numbers look close.

Question: Can I put these 2000 complete struts on the 1995 if I modify the mounts for the hose and abs sensor?

Would placing these in the '95 cause more issues, specifically with tire wear (camber)?