19transam81

Ok the two 17 mm banjo bolts on the front of the turbo are the big hole banjo bolts. This carries coolant . The only banjo bolt for oil is the small one It’s a 14 mm and a pin hole banjo and I have that in the hard line that bolts up to the back of the head.

Yeah most tech reuse the head bolts, it’s pretty safe. All my rally buddies reuse them as well, no issues.

I don’t have a copy of the service manuel, wish I did. Doesn’t look like any of the lines either vacuum, coolant, or oil are mixed up? I could be wrong but I would think that it would have smoked like this from the rip if I had one of then crossed up somewhere. Now when I did the rebuilt turbo I may have mixed up the banjo bolts not thinking. I’m dropping the manifold now and checking them out. I know there are two in the turbo. Which bolt goes where? Is the bigger hole closer to the radiator, if I had the car buttoned you and I was standing in front of the car, or is the bigger banjo hole closer to the oil pan?

Ok for those that don’t know... 2012 legacy gt turbo. Wife smoked exhaust valves on cylinder number 4. Heads were done professionally, new guides, valves where needed, seats, they even set up the buckets for me. I put the engine back together, new gasket kit, reused head bolts following Subaru specs and torque. Didn’t need to stretch bolts because they already were. New timing belt and components. Catless down pipe (invidia) custom catback no resonator into sti spt axel back. Tgv was gutted, rods and sensor are still there. New plugs. New pcv and tube New oil light sensor Ok, so car ran fine for about 200 miles, doing an e tune from torqued performance. On the third run, spread out over two days the car felt a bit sluggish. Next morning it was a smoke machine. Turbo sounded weird, almost like the intake was on the other side. Puking oil out of both ends of the turbo. Mind you I did not take off any hard lines or banjo bolts on the turbo, just cleaned it when I had the engine out of the car. Figured I smoked the turbo, I ordered one from online, used from lqm, giant junk yard if you will. Now , the new one is smoking too, looks just as bad smoke wise, its also putting oil out of both ends however, not even half as much oil, sounds fine too, boosts properly were stock wouldn’t go past 8-9 psi on original turbo. I used the hard lines and banjo bolts from the stock turbo and hooked the new one up. I didn’t realize that the banjo bolts are different with different size holes. Can anyone help me with a picture of the proper banjo bolts location. There is a small pin hole and a larger one need to make sure I have them correct. Is there anything else I could have messed up? Maybe an oil line in a vacuum line? I took picture and videos but if anyone has any documents of where the oil, coolant and vacuum go maybe I could double check. Oil is in the throttle body opening, intercooler, the black pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, air intake tube, downpipe, oil is coming out of the mufflers. No codes, no external leaks, just a lot of smoke and the smell of burning oil.

Brett dub. For the banjo bolts on the turbo. Does the pin hole go in the turbo line that is lower to the ground? Of higher up on the turbo oil pan?

Alright so started tuning, and then, it happened. The turbo started puking out of both ends, so, options. I am only really familiar with the vf48, you can replace the entire middle section most of the time for a quick rebuild. Well the vf54 is a bit different, with that being said. Is there a rebuild kit, I can’t seem to find it if there is? I saw a few high-bread builds online from a few companies that are 18g or 20g upgrades. Range is 950$-1500$. Factory Subaru replacement 1200$ eBay , used factory replacement 350$-600$ but, it’s used and how long will that last? I saw a v-band replacement adapter? I’m assuming it makes it so we can put a efr turbo on it? But then I am not sure about what turbo to get if this is an option? How easy it to hook it up to all of the oil lines/coolant lines? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133388433201 What have other people done? I can’t be the only guy in the community to have a 5th gen puking oil.

Yep you guys are right, it was that ground. Up and running, for now. Getting ready to tune for the tgv delete, catless down pipe and custom air intake.

Catless down pipe from invidia, no resonator and sti spt axel back. Sounds deep, no rasp, loud enough to set off car alarms. Very happy with this set up

Alright. So, I don’t hav ethe intercooler on because I wanted to be able to see all around the motor for leaks and stuff. The bracket that holds the intercooler on, I think, is part of the ground problem. I put the bracket on and the thing starts up, no jumpers or anything needed? Anyone else have this happen?

2012 legacy gt turbo 6speed . Fuel lines look good. Car has interior lights working, radio, headlights. But when you go to turn it over, nothing, not even a click. If I ground the bracket on the intake manifold on the left hand side of the motor, I get, the obII power, acessport works, and it will crank over. I’m wondering if I have these mixed up or something? I have the grounds from the heads to the frame, back of the starter and two on the left hand side of the intake.

Team, There seems to be a ground issue, I think? If I try to jump the legacy with my sti, it seems to crank fine, acessport works, actually cranks over but won’t start. If I take the jumper cables off it won’t even crank, click, dead battery sound, nothing, acessport will not turn on either. I made sure the two ground straps on the motor are grounded to the body, they are I cleaned the spots again and reattached. Two ground wire under the top mount Inter Bracket on the driver side. If I am forgetting a ground please help me remember lol Fuel pump primes, you can hear it... I’m going to assuming it’s getting air... Stuck here.

so i was wrong and it turns out to be a bad valve. Cylinder 4 exhaust valve is smoked, probably 25% missing. looks like the car was running a bit lean. so i am going to drop the heads off at the machine shop and the dude says he will get me a price to fix them later to day. well hes telling me 350$ a head plus parts, guides are 20$ each and an exhaust valve is 79$ for an awesome total of over 1100$ with taxes. so, is there something here i am not under standing? price seems insane. If this is the case, will wrx heads, forester XT heads, or any other head outside of an STi work on our cars?

No on the big turbo, just want to get a bit more power out of it, little more fun. I think the sway bars are a great idea. Pcv is smart, any other preventative maintenance? Cooling mod, do you guys like it or use it?

Alright guys, so I am down to the short block, those of you that said it was the valves were correct!!!! Totally fucked, is there a reason it happens on these cars? I was expecting ring land... anyway, what else should I do since I am in here? Tgv delete? I’m going to do a catless down pipe and catback, so I need a tune as it is... I’m just struggling with the idea of putting it back in when I can probably do a few things to make it better? Cooling mod cylinder four? Thoughts and ideas welcome

Motor mount is off yes sir. Oil line on the back of the head check. Thanks team, turbo brace, it was late and I couldn’t see it. Pb blasting here now

Team, I am breaking down the engine because I lost cylinder 4. So I am in the process of taking off the header and turbo set up from the long block. What the heck am I missing here? I took of the three 14 mm header bolts on each side, 6 in all. What else is holding this thing on? I got the header to come off the studs a little bit but, I don’t want to pry on it if there is a bolt and/or bracket holding this guy up. I haven’t taken the heat shield off because the thing is a rusty pos so there may be something under there?

Thanks everyone. Yeah I did hear air coming from the oil fill during the leak down. The car is not modified and is up to date on maintenance. In my opinion by looking at the plugs I thought the car was lean, but then I was like, it’s not modified in any way, so I didn’t think much about it. Now with the extra hole in the block, do I just need to fill it with a bolt or something, assuming it’s threaded? With the compression being lower on the sti bottom end and legacy heads, my thought here is get a tune and turn up the boost to get the loss in power back? I don’t want to put a ton in performance into the car, but if I did a down pipe, and had 8.5:1 compression maybe a tune will bring it back to the 260-280 horsepower range? Thanks for all the information and questions.

Hi team!!!! I’ll try to make this short. My wife has a 2012 legacy GT turbo 6 speed. Recently check engine light came on and I got the awesome cylinder four misfire PFEEE. So I did the plugs swapped the coil started her up, still had the cel, ended up doing a compression test, showed 25psi on 4 and leak down showed air coming out the crank case. I can be pretty sure I have ringland failure. But not to worry because I have an STi 2011 that I want to build. So, my goal is to replace the bottom end of the legacy 2.5 with the bottom end of my ej 257 out of my STi, slap on the heads, oil pan, turbo and get the 257 all dressed up. The legacy has 165k on the clock, not sure just replacing the ring is worth it, my STi has 78k on the clock and I think that’s worth putting in the wife’s car, plus, I can justify building out my lower end. Now only issue I have is... will this work? I know these legacy’s are the bastard child and not popular, which is what I like about them. I know so many parts of Subaru’s fits other Subaru’s, but is the ej motor in our legacy’s different than the ej257? Any thoughts or provoking questions are more than welcomed.

For the passenger side front half shaft axel seal leak, can I just pop out the seal and press in the new one? Or do I need to mess with the sundial? Thanks for the help.

Guys, I’m looking at doing an adaptor of 5x100 to 5x114, 15 mm is pretty standard, and picking up a set wrx wheels or STi wheels. So many people are changing to aftermarket and there is a lot of factory wheels on the cheep. I have a 2012 LGT sedan , do you think an 18x8.5 +40 would work if I did a roll of the fenders? Think 245/40/18 tire .

I also needed the tsk3 for the snout, that thing was tore up. Used the kit mentioned above, all the suppliers told me it would not fit, so heads up to anyone who is searching online for the information, FJK 1001 Also, when i reinstalled the engine, hooked up all the grounds, all the sensors, all the other connections, i got a code... P0607... very vague, went into limp mode. I retraced my steps and found that i knocked the throttle body inlet hose around enough to lossen it up a bit. Now after i took the inlet hose off i just cleaned the throttle body, i was in there... put the inlet on tight, put the inter cooler back and cleared the code by disconnecting the battery. Started the bad lad back up, no code. It was great success!!!! All together the job took about 14 hours and a fifth of jack daniels, not a bad weekend. I would say this was a very simple job, a lot of steps, but easy enough. I do not think anyone should be intiminadeted by this task.

Picked up the fjk 1001 and it fits, thanks team. I went with exedy, I have always used them in the past, so I figured why not...

team, i am doing the clutch in my wife's LGT 2012 6 speed car. the clutch i saw aperson use, i think it was on the 5th gen forum was the FJK1001 OEM replacement. i just called rally sport and they said, sorry man, that car is like the red headed step child lol, it does not fit. i went on amazon and she says it fits ??? any one know for sure? id hate to order the wrong one. thanks for all of the help in advance

You can rent these from auto zone. I used it on my STi, I passed according to this test but I’m still leaning towards head gaskets for myself. I have the same problem. She eats coolant and it sometimes pushes coolant out the overflow. No leaks, no bubbles in the overflow tank, no white smoke, no other normal head gasket signs. But coolant is going somewhere and it’s not the leaking*. System holds pressure too

Is the front motor mount the only motor mount holding the engine in? I can’t tell if the mounts contacted to the transmisssion on the side of the trans and motor hold the motor? This is my last step I think, almost done