Mohammad

Hi there, I actually got my arms from rockauto for less than $50 each. They ar oem equivalent aftermarkets. With shipping to Canada i paid just a little pver $100 for both arms. Local autoparts were charging a little over $100 for oem equivalent arms. Bushings were about $20 each rears and $15 for the fronts. Crap quality ball joints were $35. So for me it was a way better deal to for the full arm instead of components.

Hi there, i would take of the wheels on both sides off first then inspect the bushings to see if they are actually bad or another part of the suspension is gone bad or heading there. Mine had the driver side bushing gone almost completely and the passenger side was headed there. So i just replaced the whole control arm for both sides as it was cheaper. New LCA was like $100 for both sides while if i got new bushings and balljoints it would well over $200 and then all the labour to remove amd install the bushings. My driver side bushing inner metal piece had separated from the rubber part giving me whole of grief removing it. I will upload pictures this weekend for you to see. If you still want to remove bushings, you have got few options already lying in your garage. Hydraulic jack, you car jack, and bottle jack to name a few. All you need to make press type setup and let jacks do work for you. You can use a socket on one side the size of the bushings, slightly smaller than the LCA hole and a piece of wood with hole larger than the bushing but just about the size of the LCA hole. Use a whole of WD40, liquid wrench or whatever penetrant you like. Hope this helps.

Hi, Yea I have not done any mods. Just replaced the whole LCA since it was a cheaper option OEM equivalent arm. I had the alignment done about a year ago after I hit a pothole that apparently threw of the steering rod alignment off. I had it done at my local Subaru dealer. They are quite respectable. They didn't mentions any thing else wrong at time. So I assume the the bushings were in good order. from that I assume the alignment should be good too. I'll check it out once I finish the passenger side this weekend. I had a little booboo while removing the balljoint. I disconnected my inner cv joint so I gotta re install that too before installing the LCA. About the torque spec. I believe the castle nut spec is incorrect, but the spec for the knuckle bolt that would pinch the balljoint in the knuckle was missing. I found a service manual yesterday that had the spec listed as 36.9 ft.lb for knuckle and 28.8 ft.lb for the castle nut. I have attached the pdf for it. 5. Front Ball Joint.pdf

Hi, i just changed one of my control arms using the guide given. It is very detailed. I think just the torque spec of the knuckle bolt was missing. Aside from that I do have one question: do you recommend to perform an alignment after changing LCAs? I have not touched the tie rod or the struts. I also changed my sway bar links. Thanks in advance.