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the.burnttbean

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Posts posted by the.burnttbean

  1. If the car is a 05-06 you should make sure it has a catless up pipe too.

     

     

     

    If your going to replace the up pipe, replace the oil return hose too.

     

     

     

    make sure you remove the banjo filter on the back of the passenger side head too.

     

     

     

    FWIW, I bolt the turbo to the up pipe.

     

     

     

    [ATTACH]281148[/ATTACH]

     

     

     

    [ATTACH]281149[/ATTACH]

    What's FWIW, #noob

     

    But yes it 05 lgt limited I believe. Not sure if it has catted UP, I'm planning on new shifter linkage (OEM Subaru) its sloppy side movement. Hows that banjo filter look like?

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  2. **I got some exhaust leak, not sure were to start now that I saw one nut on the left side of the turbo was loose as s**t. I tightened it back down, but still hearing something on that side. Should I buy new uppipe gasket? Could it be slight tap/knock?? While I had the TMIC, went ahead and regreased my starter shout out to "chato" very informative post!20191130_120801.thumb.jpg.31163fb89b5b60200aeb8291d4e2ff31.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  3. Just had this same issue on my '09, it was a pressure switch for the VVL solenoid on the driver's side bank. Bout $3 from Rockauto. I replaced both switches. They're installed in an upright position, the one on the driver's side bank is right in front and gets wet if you're driving in rain. Over time they corrode internally and then the switch fails to make. When this happens the PCM assumes that the VVL solenoid is not working on that bank or there's some problem with the oil circuit and defaults to a limp mode of sorts - won't allow WOT, etc. It's ridiculous. You can clear that code and drive the car conservatively and it won't return again until you call for enough power to activate the VVL.
    Happen to have that parts code? Might try that

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  4. If you opt to fix that intercooler definitely boost-leak and/or smoke test when done with the repair. I chose to jb weld and build my own bulletproof kit from Home Depot parts.. has been holding up being hit with as high as 20+ psi.
    Any other mods you have? I will have to read up on those test, still a noobie to the boosted EJ platforms, I have a bugeye N/A 251

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  5. If you don’t want to upgrade to a new intercooler (aftermarket or stock), you can crimp those back together and use JB weld as a temporary fix. I ran mine like this with a Stage 2 18.5 psi tune for 30k miles no problem.
    Hmm I got a body hammer to it, might go run to the store and grab some job weld. I got a 5hr trip this Monday, welp, but I considering my options for aftermarket TMIC or but my AP v2 still not doesn't want to communicate w/ ECU. I check the prongs I have 2 rows of 8 pins all seem good,, I'm really trying to fix that issue so I can log data and see why is running rich (which might've been the cracked TMIC) Wheww that was long .

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  6. Well I just got the car from a marine out in Yuma, the car was from the east coast, doesn't seem to rusted out on the bottom side,

    But I drove the car from Lubbock, Tx to Dallas and was having some backfire. Once I got to Dallas 6 hours later got a TGV bank 1 closed code

    Cleared that with my AP V2, Then had had p0021 code bank 1 running rich, lots of back fire,

     

     

    So far Ive cleaned my MAF sensor, cleaned my throttle boot sleeve from TMIC to throttle body, found quite a bit of oil residue in there will try and post more pictures after work today. NOOBIE to the turbo EJ platforms,

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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