NSFW

Go Herbie!

That's pretty sweet. I was going to ask what the bump on the side was for.

Pray not for tasks equal to your ability, but for ability equal to your tasks. - Bishop Philip Brooks, in the late 1800s (approximately)

If the "serial data" line uses standard RS-232 or TTL levels, it wouldn't be hard to pipe it into a CarPC. Figuring out the protocol and writing something to display it would still take some work though.

Merchgod did a write-up on the loop transition tables: http://www.enginuity.org/viewtopic.php?t=1603

Unless AFRs really do stay on target even when the logged IDC goes well over 100%, as some people have reported.

Windows Automotive is based on CE though... That's fine for big manufacturers, but if you want to roll your own system you're better off with XP. It's got better driver support and runs out-of-the-box on most any PC-compatible hardware. I can see it being available in plenty of cars, but not as an aftermarket add-on, unless packaged up by a car-electronics vendor like Clarion, Alpine, etc.

There's a discussion going on at Enginuity.org about injector pulse width and duty cycles at/over 100%. Are you still peaking at 100% IDCs? If so, please read the following thread first and ask yourself if you really want to... If the answer is "yes," then please do some logging, we need a guinea pig. http://www.enginuity.org/viewtopic.php?t=2127 Would you mind doing a few logs with just IDC (percentage), AFR, injector pulse width (milliseconds, not percentage), load, and RPM? That's a short list of parameters to keep the log rate fast. If you have a wideband O2 then so much the better... the stock O2 might not be worth much outside of the 14.7 range but I'm still curious. And make sure you get some > 100% IDC stuff in the logs of course. Basically I'm really curious what happens to your AFRs at 100% IDC and above. If you read the thread you'll see why.

Good ones, Groff.

How thick is a typical CarPC LCD panel after the case is removed? It occurred to me today that I could just remove the upper display from the stock radio and leave the rest of the electronics intact. Then cut out the stock trim panel and blend the LCD panel into it. There would be less than a half-inch of depth to work with, beyond that the trim panel would need to be built up to get flush with the LCD. If the stock trim has to be built up, it would not look as good as cutting and relocating the top half of the stock radio circuit board, but it would be far less work and much lower risk.

UP diameter information, consolidated from various posts... BoostJunkie says the stock UP ID is 1.875. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=114435&postcount=3 Jeremy @ Crucial says 1.75: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=250460&postcount=36 JDM-STI says 1.6": http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1216409&postcount=58 (If there were only two numbers, we could assume they were measuring different ends of the pipe, but it doesn't have three ends...) More confirmation that the turbo inlet side is 1.75 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=276150&postcount=46 Bosal/STI is the same ID as stock: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=732439&postcount=7 Invidia's UP is slightly larger than stock, Cobb's is (approx) same as stock: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=605977&postcount=4 Jeremy @ Crucial says Crucial's is same as stock (and Cobb's, and Perrin's) and explains that bigger is usually not better: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=373637&postcount=6 PDE's is larger than Crucial's: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=248790&postcount=32

What rims are those, Rosso? They look a lot like the rims on the new FXT, only bigger and darker... http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64304 That color looks great on a black car.

If you run a standard VGA cable end-to-end, how is the picture? Can you adjust your mounting plans to make rooms for a big ol' VGA connector hanging off the motherboard?

I must have misread something earlier, I thought the interference had been solved and ghosting was the main problem now, looks like I had it backward.

Totally unrelated question.... first, some background: I want to put an LCD in my dash, a computer in my car, and get rid of the stock stereo. I have one of those MP3 head units coming from that eBay seller, and I'm going to hack on my old head unit and see if I can make room for an LCD panel and keep the climate controls. So then I'll have the PC as the only source of audio. I still want a nice big volume knob in the dash, though. I could use a preamp-type-thing with a remote volume knob, like a JL Cleansweep or RF360. But I'd rather skip that, and just run the computer's audio outputs right into a regular amp. So what I want is a volume knob which would adjust the computer's audio output level - but ideally, without any audio signals going to the knob. I want a USB volume knob, that just tells the computer how loud it should be. The question: Does anything like that exist on the market? Thanks!

I have to say I just barely understand this stuff, so I'm not fully confident here, but anyway... Ghosting isn't an interference problem, so much as a signal degradation problem. So I don't think any amount of shielding is going to help. If you are still having interference problems (snow/glitching/flicker/etc under specific conditions) then I'd expect better shielding to help, but IIRC the main problem now is ghosting - am I right? It might be interesting to try running at lower or higher resolutions, using a regular monitor rather than the CarPC panel. If the ghosting gets worse at higher resolutions, I think that would also suggest signal degradation (as opposed to interference from outside) as the culprit. It would be interesting to try using your CarPC panel + short cable with a regular PC. That way you could hold the short cable well away from the (encased) motherboard, which should minimize interference issues... then see if the problem persists. I suspect it will, because like I said I don't think this is an interference problem. I don't know if unequal-length cables would matter or not. I suspect not, though.

I don't think the problem is related to proximity either, I'm guessing it's radio wave reflections off of the connections at each end of the wire that runs between the VGA connector and the white block. High-frequency (radio-frequency) connections are finicky that way.

Emphasis added. I don't think shielding will help.

Was that shielded video cable plugged into the motherboard's VGA connector, or is it attached to the big white connector you wired up?

I bet the ghosting is related to the wiring... I've actually been wondering if ghosting is often an issue with carpcs. I've had issues with ghosting on desktop monitors when running 1600x1200 with a long VGA cable, or 1280x1024 with a cheap switchbox. I don't know if the cable itself matters, or just the connectors, but nicer cables helped a lot in my case. Given the long cable runs needed for cars I am not surprised it happens even at typical carpc resolutions. Sometimes the layout of the cable can make a difference (looping around itself vs draping it over stuff, etc). If you have a nice VGA cable lying around, it's worth trying. But I wonder about the connections on either end of the short run between the big connector and the VGA connector... Even with a great job of soldering, there's probably weird RF stuff going on at each end of that short run.

"You can get away with more than you deserve in life by being slightly more rational." "I'm not going to complain about my age because without it, I'd be dead." Both from Charlie Munger

Like this? http://www.pctools.com/guides/registry/detail/849/

Nice British Black Prodrives, Praedet.

Check this out... http://www.america.htc.com/products/shift/default.html The site is short on specs, but it looks like it's not much bigger than the 7" display. I dream of cutting my car's radio display from the climate controls, jumpering all of the cut PCB traces, folding the radio part back (so it's still present and connected, just out of sight), and installing a 7" LCD where the radio display sits now. If the HTC Shift is as small as the pictures (and doesn't suck...), the whole thing might fit up there in the dash.

(a) If your computer is getting its power directly from the battery, I'm guessing that whe you start the car your battery voltage is dipping so low the computer reboots. You'd have to upgrade the battery or (more likely) the power supply to fix that. (b) If (and this seems more likely) your computer is getting power from an existing line you tapped, I'm guessing that the ignition switch actually cuts power to that line when it engages the starter. You'd just need to tap a different line to fix that. Hook a voltmeter up to the computer's power input and start the car. If the voltage drops but does not go to zero, then (a). If the voltage goes to zero (b). If the voltage stays constant, then I'm stumped. But I'd blame your power supply in that case.