dwmccauley01
-
Posts
188 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by dwmccauley01
-
-
Had to redo the wiring in my gauges so I added a test mode switch!
Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
-
There's smaller stuff like a catch can and maybe replacing OEM FPR with the 05 STI one but other than that it sound like you got most of the major mods done already. If you're looking for a larger turbo 16g, jmp vf40, or vf52 are good options for a daily.Yeah, looked through the sticky's before I posted this, but I was just wondering if there was anything beyond it since they have been posted I should know about. Planning to get a pro tune and work on aesthetics next if nothing else. -
What does the maf read at idle? And is the intake stock?
Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
-
Fueling? I have not run without the maf but assuming it will still add correction it may be pulling or adding the maximum correction which could pull the fueling into a more ideal range maybe? I'm not exactly sure what the ecu does when no maf is connected.
-
I would definitely not be giving her the beans with that much correction. The DAM dropping below 1 at anytime is no good. It could be phantom but then again it could not be. I think checking the turbo and seeing if you have any heatsheilds are rattling would be a good idea.I do have a cobb and the catless down, I’m on stage 2 right now and the knock was freaking me out because I’ve heard of how bad the Cobb OTS tunes can be, but 2 of my friends are running the same exact downpipe and stage 2 91 and they experience almost none, so I think it’s phantom knock coming from somewhere, combined with the metal sort of noise I’m hoping everything is just that stupid cat. But as a note I was hitting -32 knock sometimes and even -62 I believe it was once with no audible knock. Only time I ever had dam change was drifting through a snowy parking lot and it upped back to 1.00 shortly after.Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
-
You should probably take off the downpipe to check for shaft play. If you're still making boost it means the turbine hasn't snapped but the metal scraping sound is very concerning. If the turbine snaps it'll likely send metal into the pan and therefore into the bearings requiring a new short blockAnother note is that I hit boost and power fine, the car starts up and runs great, I just hear the supercharger whine noise occasionally, and the sort of metal scraping noise when I hit boost and let the car decelerate itself when cold, and the turbo has lots of “woosh” noise during boost if that makes any sense. I recently did an oil change and didn’t find any metal particles in the oil.Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
-
I have never noticed my coolant temp go above halfway, may be something to keep an eye on. I redid all the timing components and thermostat not that long ago so that may affect it.I almost forgot, is the coolant temperature gauge supposed to go a bit above operating temperature if the car is driven a little hard for a few minutes(like stepping on the gas hard on a straight long road)? I have noticed that a few times..Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
If it's catless without codes it definitely has some sort of tune. I'm not sure how it would work if it's married to an ap, I'm not sure if you can reflash it or not. But if it was open-source it's super easy to pull the flash to see what was changed in the tune. Thankfully, there's a tone of resources related to subaru tuning so I would just search up subaru tuning guides or on romraider.com to get more information. It's a bit intimidating at first but once you get your stuff set up and understand the basics, it's not bad at all.I have a feeling the heater core went bad and/or there was leaking inside the cabin, hence they clamped the engine block to heater core hose to prevent spillage inside (I just wished they had done it the right way instead of such a hack job).I can always try doing a heater bypass from the back of the block back to it until I figure the issue with tuning first. Living in Miami we don't really need the heater most of the year thankfully.
I haven't tried using the heater to see if it smells and/or leaks inside the car and now I want to do it even less.. haha
A/C blows super cold though..
Car actually feels pretty good for its mileage and it seems to run smooth, no rough idle or weird noises. No CEL lights either, but they might have hidden those with the tune since I have a CAI, aftermarket Intercooler and a catless down pipe.
If I cannot get a hold of the person that previously had the car tuned, I'm going to have to do a whole lot of reading and learn it myself. Might be beneficial after all to really understand how everything works..
I would recommend getting a general VAG-COM KKL 409.1 cable from Amazon or elsewhere to start or go ahead with a openport 2.0 but they are a bit pricey. Either way since it's tuned there's no easy way to tell what's going on without logging some data on it
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
You can get an openport 2.0 or cheap vagcom cable to log and reflash. There's a few good writeup on how to get that set up.
Hopefully he has a tune, these cars don't usually respond well to modding without a tune. Once you get a cable and pull a learning view it may be easier to see what's going on.
Also if you're burning oil, at that mileage it may be more worthwhile to get a shortblock as the piston rings are likely worn and the cylinders like to round out over time.
-
I understand I'm nearly a decade late to this discussion but I had a similar inquiry as above. Does anyone still have a hookup for these? If not, is there any dimensions I could give to a machine shop to get a similar set made? I see the dimensions posted above but I'm not sure if those were deemed accurate.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
There's a Russian guy on ebay selling modded valvebodys for the 5eat. Not sure how good they are but I think read a member buying from them. Other than that you can buy the RE5R05A HD-2 kit and follow hexmods walk through or get a shop to put it in.Hello, I have been trying to find a place to buy the hex mod 1 valve body for the automatic transmission of my 05 Lgt. I keep reading about it but cant find any place selling it. Please help!!!Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
From my understanding, the B25 heads were used in the 05-08 STI then they went to the W25 heads with dual ACVS. Meanwhile the D25 heads were used to compensate for air injection due to emissions.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Small update, took a look at the heads. They are pretty dirty but couldve worse I guess. I didn't see any obvious scoring but I'll be moving it this week closer to my house so I can get into taking the heads off. Still got to get those cam bolts off. Another big reason why I'm going the route of rebuild this engine is because I got it basically for free
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Friend of mine just got a 05 OBXT. We got a little hoodscoop gang going now. Mine is the black 05 LGT and the Mustangs are 5.0 California Specials.
-
Yeah, I would for sure go the new shortblock route, however, I think it would be fun to go through the rebuilding process on my own. There's a ton of resources online and worse case I mess it up really bad I'll just move to another project.My Machine Shop owner buddy, told me, I was better off buying a new ej257 shortblock, instead of paying him to tear apart my ej255 and rebuild it. Others have learned the same thing.Most dealers can get an ej257 and engine gasket set for your year car for about $2300.
My ej257 has over 144,000 trouble free miles on it.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Obtained another cable elsewhere
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
I agree that the photos are definitely less than ideal, I'll get better ones soon when I have time to take the heads off
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
I was planning on getting it honed and just doing some drop in pistons if the block looks usable. I'm fairly certain the ringlands aren't ideal due to the age of the engine. Assuming there is no major scoring and the cylinders aren't severely out of round would it be safe to assume my plan would be viable?Right, what I was hinting at earlier, was the need for a better picture.Here are mine at 154,000 miles.
[ATTACH]294197[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]294198[/ATTACH]
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Is that what makes it leak?That second photo, looks like there may be a step in the top edge of the piston ringlandSent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Nice! Thank you for the confirmationThat just looks like carbon build up to me.Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Bump, another thought I had is maybe it's just carbon build up on this pistons that fell off over time? I'll likely be opening it up within a month or two to see if it would be viable to reuse.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Hello,
I bought a used engine awhile back and I am just now starting to tear into it, haven't taken the heads off yet but I put a boroscope into the spark plug holes to take a look. 2/4 cylinders look good with the cross hatching still visible, however, the other 2 have what looks like caked oil or something. I wouldn't be surprised it the ringlands are bad because it's got around 140k on it. The engine has also not been run in almost a year. I just wanted to confirm what I'm seeing is oil or something and not bits of the shortblock.lmk of you guys notice anything else.
Thank you
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
My old Vag-Com cable has seen better days so I figure it's about time to get a nicer cable. I'm looking for one in decent condition, doesn't necessarily need to be Tractrix. Let me know what you have!
Thanks
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
-
Bump, vf38 sold
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
VA 4th Gen LGT Rear Brakes
in Want to buy
Posted
Hello,
I'm looking for rear calipers and brackets from a 4th gen LGT for a brake swap project. Would also be interested in rotors and pads depending on mileage.
Thanks