bowenx

Hello folks -

a few weeks back i was driving and ran over a stick and i wouldn't have thought much of it however the car made an odd sound for that action.

Immediately while i was thinking the sound was odd the dash indicator light went on for the parking brake (flashing) and the info center indicated there was an issue.

After poking around and getting some info via one of the FB groups it was determined to be a loose cable from the parking brake actuator.

i was able to pop it back and was on my way. That saved me a trip to the dealer.

However, since then it has popped off one or two times and i've since used something like safety wire to ensure it stays put.

Other than that - are there other fixes out there? a new clip perhaps?

What have you done to fix that?

the design does seem a bit iffy as that particular electrical connection hangs low and does seem to be exposed to sticks and other random stuff you may accidentally drive over.

thanks for any input.

Thanks for the info. I reviewed the diagrams and noted where i was to pry/push. I moved the mirror so i could see behind it better..i saw the clip spots and gave it a firm press and click! It went back in. I havent driven it yet but it seems to have done the trick.

Thanks

I tried to push it back in a few times...nothing snapped in.

I can move it so that there is a gap i will be able to look in to hopefully see if broken or not.

Not looking forward to having to take it all apart as i am not confident it will separate to the fixable level vs replace it. Need to look a bit more...it was too cold to spend time messing with it.

It isnt the entire housing...just the mirror.

Its like a connector was knocked loose so it isnt as anchored. The motor still works but it wont line up correctly.

I had a pvc pipe on my roof rack roll off during unloading and it fell on the mirror. The housing is cracked and the mirror didnt crack/shatter however it has come loose and now jiggles all the time.

Has anybody had a similar issue?

It seems like it will be a royal pain to get the assembly off to then try and fix...so looking for ideas before i attempt anything.

Thanks

Saw a 6th gen today at Tower Storage cars and coffe today.

Had several mods...front lip, rear spoiler, front grill, some aluminum paddle shifters, and diff wheels.

Crazy turnout with loads of really nice cars in upper lot and scattered around the site.

I can fit two bikes and a kayak. No dents yet. I think total combined weight is only 100 or less.

Have the yak towers and round bars (mainly as i had the bike racks already from my wrx)

Not today...but yesterday i vac'd and detailed the interior. All nice and clean again. Not bothering to do exterior until rain stops.

Need to get a quote from a Dent Wizard place for the acorn dimples from prior years.

It took me ages before i had pressed hard enough on the gas to where i felt them. I think now that cars with cvt are more common they could do away with them.

As for the paddle shifters, i thought i was going to use them all the time but found i only use them like 1%. Using them kills the mpg and the engine doesnt seem to enjoy the higher revs. What i do like is the smooth linear acceleration.

That being said i am also glad for other toys that let me shift for real.

Could reset it, but likely will end up back where it now is. Thx for feedback.

I am no subie tech but would expect it to "normalize" if you go back to rolling in to the throttle for your driving. Should only stay how it is if you keep gunning it from the start.

Good you had it checked out to confirm.

Would assume if you stuck to a standard break in period for the first few thousand miles all would be normal.

Edited thread title to better reflect the situation. So far there is no confirmation of "slippage" in this CVT.

That...and the OP has yet to elaborate / reply to their initial post.

Nothing will snap with the 20mm RSB unless it was already compromised prior to install. I've been running the 20mm RSB on my stock endlinks for nearly 50k miles and it's been great. The 22mm is a better improvement, but the 20mm will still yield a difference and at 2x-3x less price than any 22mm bar.

I was referring to the nuts/bolts holding the current RSB in place. I'm rather certain the 20mm won't snap. I had an older whiteline on my 02 WRX - that thing had become covered in rust over time and still never presented a problem. I had installed the HD Mounts and endlinks with that too - heck, was under it and might as well do it at once.

I'm still running on the oem rubber - i had slammed a huge pothole and had to buy new tires (had too many miles to just swap out one -plus i wanted the shop to check if anything was mangled -yes, it was that hard of a hit on the pothole) When it was at the dealer i just asked them to put the tires on, they had the oem rubber, not overly thrilled with it, but it is ok for daily driving. Next time i have to get new tires i'll consider some others, but for now they only have approx 8-10k on them.

From what i've read / skimmed on this site - nobody makes direct fit / replacement struts? I had a set of the kyb adjustable strutes, those with a set of the prodrive sprints an the adj rsb made for a fun handling wrx - would love to get close to that, but not going to drain the bank for that effort.

Drove it to drop my son off at a friends...and then back home. Pretty wild stuff.

I did however order a new toy for it - going to try the 20mm RSB. I know when i had put one on my WRX many years ago it was a huge improvement...so we'll see how this goes. The easier part was that the WRX only had approx 5k miles on it and the leggy has like 45k on it... so hopefully nothing snaps.

Hello folks - i had spent a bit of time earlier today searching the site for assistance with the fog light install (yeah, oem, i know, boring.) but i hadn't found the details on how.

I even caved and went to the dealer to buy the bulb just to see if there was a trick to it - the tech even came out and said it was stuck. What i found was it was required to remove the harness/connector from the bulb prior to turning it to remove. I'm assuming several of you already knew that, however in my searches and search results most of the fog light discussions warped into a headlight discussion or with posts on getting a different setup completely.

so - thought i would put this up for anybody else.

2015 Legacy 3.6R Fog light replacement = remove wire/connector first, then turn, then pull - easy peasy.