tmoney468
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Posts posted by tmoney468
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It’s also pretty bad that the base uses what looks like standard DIN sized screens, yet neither can be upgraded to upgrade the stereo
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Hi everyone, I sold my '16 Legacy a couple months ago to Carvana because at the time they gave a pretty good deal. Overall I was happy with the car, but it developed some issues that I needed to get out it. I haven't test driven a 2020+ yet, but I was wondering what is your impression on the newest gen vs the 2016 I drove for about 2 years?
One thing that really annoys me, is the torque converter judder around 30-40mph, my Legacy had it pretty bad, and I've been driving an '18 Crosstrek the past couple of months and it has it almost the same. I also couldn't stand the touchy throttle on my '16 Legacy, the Crosstrek doesn't seem as bad, how is it in the new Legacy?
In the end I probably jumped the gun getting rid of my old car given the shortages now, but it is what it is. Thanks!
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I didn't blame Subaru for anything. It would be nice to have a picture of the oil pan location in the manual. This is my first cvt vehicle.
Aren’t the oil drain plug and CVT drain plug completely different bolts?
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So what does everyone like for rotor and pad replacements? OE? I need to do front and back in a couple of months.
There are many better options than OEM. Depending on where you live, they have elemental coated rotors which work well in the salt/winter belt. Many good pads out there too, I’ve gone with Raybestos pads and they’ve worked well
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Just finished installing Pedal Commander and tested it for a while,man I gotta say I’m impress on the throttle response, even on city mode +1 level definitely feel the difference
And tried the sports + mode level 4,OMG tires peels off on take off,I gotta say it made driving the car much much more fun to drive!!!
I tried it last year, but for the opposite reason. My throttle is way too touchy, used it to deaden the throttle some. Ended up returning it as it wasn’t worth the $$ for that
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Short update. Contacted SOA and they’ve agreed to cover 2 hours worth of diagnosis at the dealer, so I’m taking her in next Wednesday.
SOA also contacted the dealer the previous owner went to, apparently transmission serviced = front diff fluid changed, so the CVT fluid has never been changed or tampered with. Still have no clue what plug they noted looked to be tampered with
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I traded her in on a 2020 Crosstrek!
Did you get the Sport? Curious how the 2.5 performs in the smaller Crosstrek
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So, dealer #1 did the first change and dealer #2 is saying they’re going to void your warranty if dealer #1 botched the job? Unreal!
Good luck to dealer #2, I say! Idiots!
So the previous owner had the CVT fluid changed at another Subaru dealer, it’s in the CARFAX. I could call and see if they have a more detailed summary, but transmission serviced I take to mean drain and fill.
Took my car to dealer #1 last month, had to leave it overnight, tech went out solo due to covid and they said it functions normal.
When driving home, it still had jerkiness and judder, so I went to a closer dealer (dealer #2).
I’m personally not a fan of dealer 2, my old car it took them 3 times to recreate a squeaky seat for warranty, and they botched my short block replacement, but alas. This is the dealer that didn’t even describe the correct procedure for checking the fluid level in the CVT [emoji854]
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Find another dealer. "Drain and fill" is not the correct way to check CVT fluid level. All that's required is removing the fill plug. (Source: Legacy/Outback Factory Service Manual)
I know! I checked the service manual when I got home and saw that. These people man
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Did the previous owner do the service or did he have it serviced?
Have the dealer drain and refill before the issue worsens.
A local Subaru dealer did the service.
The way the dealer I saw framed it, was that if they did a drain and fill and found it low on fluid, they’d note it and deny any sort of warranty claim for the CVT. All though, when I was there I didn’t know the CVT servicing by the previous owner, and wasn’t aware of the leak on the bottom CVT pan
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Hi everyone, the past several months I've noticed a jerkiness/judder pretty constantly when driving at all speeds, particularly with low throttle (1500 RPM - 2000 RPM). There have also been some instances of jerkiness when accelerating from a stop.
I've taken it to the dealer twice for this issue, 2 different dealers, and they've both said they think the car functions as it should. With COVID, the tech's have to take the car out alone which makes sense, but also doesn't allow me to show when the car acts up when driving.
The most recent dealer also said that it appeared the drain plug on the CVT had been tampered with, I presume because there was some wear around the star plug. I got this car used with 58k miles on it, and in the CarFax it states that the transmission was serviced at 30k miles at a Subaru dealer. I assume this means the fluid was drained and filled.
So yesterday when I had some time, I took a look under my car to see if I could see what they were talking about, and I noticed this fluid leak on the CVT on the bottom pan.
I need to jack up the car today and check out the drain plug, but I'm surprised neither dealer mentioned the fluid leak on the CVT as part of the diagnosis? Doesn't appear to be a big leak, but given my symptoms and when the CVT was serviced by the previous owner, it gives me some concern.
How should I approach this? The latest dealer's stance was that since it appeared the drain plug was tampered with, they could only do a drain and fill to see how low, if at all, the CVT fluid is and then go from there.
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Definitely get it checked out..Could be low in fluid if it has the leak..
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Will do, haven’t been driving it much thankfully so will try to make some time to take it in. May try to peek underneath and see if anything is visible.
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My ‘16 with 82k miles is acting up recently. Extremely rough gear “shifting”, very pronounced shift under heavy acceleration. It’s like you can feel the car gears shifting when under light acceleration. Really weird. Plan on making an appointment once I get some free time
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I think the old rotors on my 3.6 were actually 2.5 rotors. Bought the car CPO with 28k miles. Not sure who would have put those on...Yes, I beat the hell out of the old rotors to get them off. No chisel. hah
You can also thread an M8 bolt I believe in those 2 holes to remove the rotor. Whatever works though!
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The 2020 is 2 inches longer, same height and width. Thanks for your impressions, the new global platform really stiffens up the ride as well so that’s probably a part of it
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Have you thought about what the cost difference would be between a new ‘20 vs your pre-owned ‘19?
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FWIW this is what is in the service manual for my old 2012 Impreza.
Shame that ours is more of a PITA.
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Poor car.
N.B.
- Even if it were the problem ... which is almost certainly isn't ... you cannot properly charge any A/C system by measuring pressure alone.
- Gen 6 Legacy A/C compressors are variable displacement; they don't have a clutch.
- If you're going to undertake DIY jobs like this, investing $35 in a legal copy of the official Legacy/Outback Factory Service Manual is an essential first step.
Why do you say that about #1? Generally curious, as Subaru has charts in their service manual for exactly this thing (at least they did for my ‘12 Impreza)
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- Even if it were the problem ... which is almost certainly isn't ... you cannot properly charge any A/C system by measuring pressure alone.
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I have an older JVC CarPlay headunit in both my car and my wife’s. Overall they have been great with little issues. I wanted to go with something other than Pioneer because of negative past experiences (their crappy AppRadio)
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I plan on doing this sometime soon, got the PCV valve on eBay from a local dealer for $16, currently at 80k miles so it’s probably time to have it done
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Any time the battery is pulled, you need to roll down the drivers and passenger front windows:
Hold down until the window is all the way down, and hold down for an extra 2-3 seconds. Then, hold up u til the window is closed, and hold for an extra 2-3 seconds. This resets the auto up down and the rear windows.
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Just installed the 20mm STi rear sway bar yesterday with Kartboy endlinks. Had the 20mm on my Impreza and it was a great upgrade.
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Also, doesn’t the TSB coverage end at 60k as well? Meaning you’d have to pay them in order to fix?
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What’s the proper part number for the 20mm rear sway bar and bushings? I just realized the dealer gave me the wrong one last year, they gave me the 16mm one
Edit: just found them, search is better on my computer: 20451VA000 - Bushings 20464VA000 x2
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Cvt
in Seventh Generation Legacy (2020 - )
Posted
Or if you drive in what Subaru seems severe driving, which is actually a large percentage of people
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