Ares3985

A lot of the people saying that it is bad have misperceptions about what is causing it, and say it is the turbine being driven in the reverse direction. While that’s not entirely untrue as my understanding is that the noise is from a reverse impulse being applied, the turbine is spinning incredibly fast and most definitely is not reversing direction. It is just a differential in the exhaust gas pressure and the intake air under boost. I have seen videos of professional high end performance tunes with a lot of flutter after lifting off the throttle and I can’t image these people would allow for that if it was damaging. With that said I also took those videos with a grain of salt because they were people that could afford to fix things when they blew up and were building for performance as opposed to reliability. I prefer a philosophy that says to run an adjustable 100% recirculating valve to keep all metered air within the system to avoid fuel trim spikes, and make adjustments to make the release tight to the point of flutter, and then back it off just a touch. Obviously a blow off can be properly tuned for.

 

I’m sure there are others who could shed more light on the physics of what causes the noise and if it is good or bad. From a performance standpoint I believe some flutter is good as it means you are not opening your recirc/blowoff too early so that you stay in boost more often

Yes. This is pretty much what I’ve heard as well. I have heard of some using a block off plate to completely seal the bpv but that doesn’t sound like a good idea.

What bpv do you find is best? I know that some are easily adjusted from outside the housing but others you need to open up. Obviously exterior adjustment is more convenient

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Turbo flutter bad on throttle close? Or only bad while throttle open? Let’s talk about this. See so many conflicting posts about this subject. When searching the internet you get a lot of companies saying it’s bad. Guess what they sell??? Blow off valves!!! So is it really bad? Or is it a myth. I understand if you are wot and you have turbo flutter there is something seriously wrong but what about when you are off the gas? I know everyone is going to have a different opinion on this but let’s hear it. Any hard facts or data would be good also since there is absolutely none on the internet which makes me think this could be myth.

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Well took it out today and guess what? No leaks. Exhaust sounds great. Actually hitting target boost now. I actually overboosted a little which is weird cause I have the catted downpipe and stage 2 tune. Maybe the catless uppipe caused it. Hit 18.99. I’m not concerned

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Glad to hear doubled up did the trick. I’d reset it with the AP and see if it comes back. Are you running at least an ots stage 2 map at this point?

Yeah I flashed the stage 2 the other night. Wasn’t really impressed but that’s probably because my uppipe was leaking like crazy and was running lean. I only got max 14.5 lbs and that was only once. I’m gonna reset tomorrow and take the car out for some rips and see if it feels better

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I put a cnt downpipe. So I ripped it apart today and got everything. Fixed. The header to uppipe needed 2 gaskets to get it to stop leaking and an impact gun. My code is still there tho. I’m wondering if I should drive with the CEL and wait for it to go off. Or if I should reset the code with my access port and see if it comes back

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Ok great. I’ll try this today. I should add that the reason I looked for leaks is because I pulled a p2096 code which is an excess of air post catalyst bank 1. I’m assuming that the leaks from the uppipe could cause this as it is going to be sucking in a lot of fresh air mixing with the exhaust. Either way. No leak is good so it needs to be addressed. Hopefully takes care of my code.

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Disassemble it and spray all of the gaskets about 3 coats of Permatex Copper Gasket Spray-both sides. Then, tighten them up evenly but far tighter than 26 lb.ft. Generally, the flanges warp after the first installation and if you have a flat plate, you can take the high spots off and make them better. I do the turbo housings with a flat plate and you would be shocked how badly warped the surface on the turbo exhaust housing for the UP becomes.

Yeah I was just looking at that stuff. It wasn’t the spray though. It was the tube of it. You think that’s good too or just go with spray.

When you say far tighter. How much are we talking? The exhaust bolts I’m ok with going crazy on but the turbo bolts I’m not sure how tight I could make them before disaster.

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I know that the spec for these bolts is 26 lbs. however. I installed and uppipe and downpipe both at 26 lbs and they are leaking. I used new gaskets on everything. I even just uninstalled everything and reinstalled. Still leaking. It’s leaking at the header to uppipe. Turbo to uppipe and on the downpipe. Can I go above the 26 lbs because idk what else to do at this point. I’m sick of taking this thing off and on

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I've personally been to Level10 and their facility is top notch. They built me a converter for my 87 Mitsubishi and it never failed. However,I've never heard anything good about them from the Subaru crowd.

 

 

 

Zack K.

Well I don’t doubt his work. He has a good rep. I just didn’t like the price. The shop is nice too and he gets a lot of business. I’ll checked with IPT. They only charge 1000 for removal and reinstall. I’ll prob just pull it myself and save a couple hundred bucks. I mean. What could go wrong lol

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$1500 is really high. I was able to do the whole job in an afternoon on jackstands,and most of the time was spent waiting for the fluid to drain. There's just a lot of bolts to undo,5 plugs and shifter linkage to disconnect. The VB is pretty heavy,so having a friend or a lift helps taking it off and putting on. Pretty straightforward,just look at the FSM.

 

Zack K

Yeah I think it’s really high also. I actually called him the first time. He quoted me 1000 and then I went there to get more information and he quoted me 1500. I also requested a transmission service but the shift kit is like 250 bucks. There isn’t that much labor to add $1250. I’m gonna call IPT and see what they quote. The high quote was from Level10. IPT seems pretty reputable on this site so I’ll see what they say.

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Pretty sure this video is what you need:

I've done it a few times myself, its not too bad. Little annoying from under the car cuz it never stops dripping on you.

 

Also some good info in my 5eat rebuild thread.

Awesome. That’s exactly what I need. Never done anything on a trans so that’s why I’m a little nervous to dive in. Anything engine or suspension I will tackle but have never this. Guess it’s time to pop the cherry.

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Did you pull the vb yourself and send it off or have someone do it? They quoted me like 1500 to pull it, upgrade, and reinstall. I feel like that’s a lot for the amount of labor involved. I just can’t seem to find a good walkthru for removal.

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The VB upgrade definitely does make a big difference. I currently break loose in 2nd and 3rd on dry pavement lol. Depends on your power levels tho. VB upgrade alone will only take you so far....

I’ll be stage 2 this weekend but I have many more upgrades to go. Slow but sure we are getting there

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I saw you posted the instructions that come with it but it mentions a vb removal guide booklet. Do you have this? I want to remove mine myself and have a shop do the kit but have never done this before. I am pretty mechanical inclined but am nervous messing with this. Walkthrough for that would be great.

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Update! Fuel issues sorted. Car is currently at 501whp and 402wtq. 5eat still holding on with no signs of slippage.

I’m thinking of having my valve body done by level 10. He told me it’s going to be a night and day difference. Shift so fast and hard it might break loose on wet pavement. Or so he says. How much difference did the valve body actually make for you?

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I just bought a Vag-Com cable and it came and had the wrong chipset. So I bought a different one with the FT232RL. It comes with a driver cd but the problem is. New laptops don’t have cd drives. Anyone know which driver is correct? I found a site with a lot of them but I don’t know which one I will need. I’ll include a pic of the cable and of the site with drivers.

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These 5EAT's suck IMO. I wonder if this is somehow tied to a bad turbine speed sensor 2 issue that we all complain about. It is supposedly responsible for the shift shock we commonly experience with the 2-3 shift. Replacing this sensor involves dropping the pan and valve body and splicing wiring.

 

I wish my LGT had a clutch. I know it could but too costly for a somewhat DD IMO.

 

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Mine had the rough shift from 2-3. I put in some Lucas trans fix and it seems like it went away completely but that short shift is a killer. It really slows me down. I am pretty sure one of my next mods is going to be a valve body upgrade so I might just reset the tcu and hope it relearns correctly.

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So I know this has been talked about before and I read the posts and have found no definitive answers. When using the manual mode in my 08 legacy gt 5EAT the transmission automatically upshifts from 2-3 early. If I am wot first gear it redlines. Then in second it automatically shifts to 3rd at like 5000rpm. It’s pretty much as soon as it hits 2nd it’s already going into 3rd. So now as I’m going Into 3rd it’s completely bogged down at a low rpm. Like I said. I’ve seen a few threads about this with no real answers. If anyone knows a solution it would really help me out.

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Eh your probably fine, jeep an eye on it from time to time .

Ok great. I drove a hundred miles yesterday and I still didn’t have a code again so I think I’m good too. Thanks for all your help

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Do you need a tune for this? I haven’t put my intake in yet because I am still collecting parts for the tune. Unfortunately Cobb doesn’t support intakes for the 08. Hoping for something like this in the mean time if it’s safe without tune.

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I keep forgetting from which perspective Subaru names stuff :-).

 

That's odd that the new one would be slower to react, especially with no turbo leaching oil pressure from the line too. No obvious oil leaks right?

No oil leaks. You think the numbers should be concerning or move onto the next project and monitor?

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Looks like it's hitting the right numbers. Now your right side is lagging behind the left side a little, especially when you first floor it, you can even see it working harder by increasing the duty cycles.

 

I believe right side is the driver side, if it is, then it's probably a clogged filter behind the timing belt cover (which is really hard/impossible to get to without removing the timing belt etc.).

Right side is the passenger side. That’s the side I just changed the ocv.

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Replaced your turbo inlet? Manifold on or off?

Manifold on

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I changed my inlet last weekend. It solved my boost problems and af learning values. Really wasn’t a fun install. Prepare for some busted knuckles and frustration lol.

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