Ares3985

You are absolutely right. I need someone who cares. Up until now and even through the purchase I have yet to find that.

 

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Where are you located?

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I will update as well....

 

I contacted my local dealer where the car was purchased 1.5yrs ago. I asked about open recalls and this TSB, even giving them the number. They stated the car had no open recalls and that I would have to contact SOA for assistance there. I contacted SOA and was promptly assisted by a young lady who listened to my entire schpeel, telling her this is my 4th Subaru vehicle, I am an ASE certified tech (was a few yrs back and don't work in the field any longer but not their concern) and the issues I am seeing with the 5EAT. My info was taken and sent to another rep that followed up the next day. She stated that being a TSB, not a safety recall, I would have to take the car to a dealership, pay for a diagnostic fee and verify there is a problem at which point SOA would make a decision to generously assist with reimbursement or not, depending on what they found. Pheww, I get it but what a pain in the a$$.

 

I just want the update done and the dealer knows nothing about it, or at least the two service writers I spoke to didn't. I could call another dealer that is about 45 mins away I guess but no guarantees. For now ...a reset lasts quite a while, especially seeing how the last tank of fuel lasted about 30 days from lack of driving.

 

New business? LOL

 

 

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Honestly if I hadnt had all of the information my dealer probably would have told me there was nothing as well. I wouldn’t even bother with SOA. I paid like $100 for this or something. You just need a dealer with some intelligent techs. I spoke with someone over the phone for a half hour before I even scheduled this. The guy happened to be a 4th gen enthusiast as well and was interested in helping.

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I'll have to agree with that.

 

OP, you'll find we are good at spending other peoples money...

Haha I see that. I’m gonna keep my legacy but I’ve been browsing around all day looking for new ideas for a new car. Also toying with the idea of importing something but not sure if I even want to get involved with that.

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You might be better off to get a EG Civic, put a GT35R on it and go make Supra's.

I have actually been thinking about getting a civic project car now that you mention it

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Just my $.02 but there are many other platforms that will perform as good or better than our Legacies. That said, I didn't buy mine for the all out performance aspect as I have a toy car for those times of need. I bought my car because I liked the look, wanted an AWD all year car that had air, cruise, etc. This car meets all of that and goes down the road quite well.

 

Someone out there is always willing to spend more money and will have a faster car. The amount of money you would have to sink to get 400whp to have other issues such as transmissions, differentials, fueling, rattling dash boards....doesn't seem very cost effective. Great cars but not worth that. Go find a Camaro or Mustang, SS, G8.....something V8 and rwd that you can make power and have fun with. To each their own....

 

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You have a point. Spend all this money just to be unreliable and blow up when I could go buy some jdm monster or other platform and just go to town. This isnt my daily, just a fun car but I do see what you are saying.

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Yeah we didn’t do any side by side pulls but I just didn’t seem much faster. I would obv tune right after I got the turbo. I already have a 320 lph pump and 1050x injectors. I just feel like I want a little more. Not just to beat him. I just noticed it yesterday.

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Update

Transmission still shifting smooth. Not one bang since the update. Only downside is my valve body doesn’t seem as firm but honestly that’s probably how it was supposed to be from the get go. If anything changes I will update again but all is good for now.

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I assumed the 10-year window would be closed on my car (2009 build, only bought 2 months ago) so I haven't called a dealer. Maybe I will, and try my luck.

 

Failing that, has anyone come up with another solution besides replacing the dash? I am considering a dash mat but it's not my favorite idea.

I called soa a few weeks ago. They won’t do anything for you. I found this stuff called sticky dash fix. There were a few cars that used similar dashboards and all had the same problem. Not sure if it works but it looks like one of the only options other than replacing out of pocket. Dealer quoted 500 for the dash and 700 labor.

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So I recently had my car tuned and it made 306/375 with a vf52 on a mustang dyno. Since it’s been nice I have been driving it a little more and it’s already starting to dull. I went cruising with my buddy in his Rsx type s yesterday and it didn’t seem like I was much faster than his stock car. Big sad. He def got me in the corners too. Legacy just feels like a boat sometimes. My question is. What stock location turbo is going to get me 400/400 to the wheels. That is the max I really want to go because I don’t plan on building the block and I am running a slightly built 5eat trans. I have looked up rotated turbos and it is a lot of money to switch everything now and I wont be able to throw some monster turbo on it anyway. I would like a stock location vf style connection. I saw a Garrett 3076r from atp turbo that would probably get me there. That runs about $1800 bucks. Any other options out there that would get me where I want to be? Also will I still be able to use my same aftermarket inlet with these larger turbos?

I know there are turbo threads but they kind of trail off to irrelevant subjects and I am tired of searching.

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https://behrents.com/content/catalog.asp

That is one of the places we used back in the race car day's. Helpful people if you need to call them.

 

Another great source, https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

Behrents is like 10 min from me actually. Maybe I’ll go over there and see what they have. Thanks

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You guys would be surprised how easy it is to make up your own steel braided lines.

 

Hacksaw, masking tape, vise, basic wrenches. I made all the fuel and most of the oil and breather lines and water cooling for the turbo on the race car years ago.

 

[ATTACH]284150[/ATTACH]

I was thinking of this. Ordering a bunch of AN fittings and hose but I honestly have no idea what these sizes are or what I would need.

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Unless I am mistaken, most good quality dual are still pricey no?

I'll try posting my video and see if it helps you..

No you’re correct. It seems they add hundreds of dollars to the full kit price for giving you $10 worth of hoses. I was going to piece together my own system.

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I purchased a few weeks ago an air oil separator instead. From Radium. Top notch quality. $$ though.

 

Pretty good set of instructions even though these were for the wrx (ej255). I have installed most of it. Not finished yet because the engine is still on the stand! I made a crappy video to remind me where stuff will go too.

Yeah radium is nice. I kind of wanted to keep it cheap and go w the duals tho. Just wish there was more info out there

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So here is a crappy picture I drew of how the system is routed. Yes I know the crossover is on top but it was getting too jumbled. Where do the catch cans fall into this system? Is it just the breathers that get messed with or the entire pcv system too? I wish I had investigated this more a few weeks ago when my intake manifold was off so I could get a better picture of what is going on.

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Why isn’t there a walkthrough anywhere for dual catch cans on an ej255? Every post I find is unclear and has no pictures or ones that don’t help. I’ve search thru years of legacygt posts and wrx posts and came up with very little. Mishimoto has a video but it’s terrible. Am I missing something? I’d really like to do the catch cans but have been putting it off for some time because I can’t find good instructions. Maybe there is something out there that I haven’t found. If anyone knows of an actual walkthru please post the link. It will help me and I’m sure many others.

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So I noticed that I have the tiniest leak on my turbo oil feed line. It’s tight so I’m unsure why it is leaking so I figured I should replace it. Is there a specific kit to replace just the top section? I saw a lot of different types of lines. Just unsure of the sizes. I’d rather a braided line than the oem one. Anyone replace this before? If so maybe drop a link if you could. Thanks

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Interesting, looks like that tsb is relevant to other cars with the 5eat, for example:

https://www.sb9t.com/threads/hard-downshift-when-slowing-down.1806/

 

I have the 3-2 downshift bang on my 5th gen 5eat.

 

I was under the impression it was due to a failing turbine speed hall effect sensor.

 

Might have to ask about that tsb and the TCU update when I go in for next.

Could be This one specifically mentions the legacy/outback and tribeca but it could be the same issue with other years. The actual update that was done though was a completely different file than the ones mentioned in that tsb. So it’s been updated since.

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I should add if I haven’t already.

THIS IS FOR 08 ONLY

There may be updates out there for other years but this is specifically regarding the 08 5eat tcm

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Okay so I have come to the conclusion that doing your own tcm reset doesn’t do squat. The dealership does a sequence of things when resetting the tcm. It has you put it in all the gears, press brake and handbrake at certain times. Without the select monitor handheld. You cannot do this correctly. Just resetting and driving doesn’t correct problems. It is still using old data in the tcm. This is all according to Subaru.

If you are going to do this. Just go the dealer. I also brought a tsb with me and had them check the tcm for updates. If you do not ask. The likely won’t check. I was ready to leave today and asked him if he had done an update. Which I had specifically asked for and they hadn’t. He took it back in and sure enough there was an update for 2-3 shock shift correction.

The first picture I am posting is the tsb that I found on the internet. Since then there has been another update. The .pak file is different and was updated a year later.

The second picture is the update I received today

Sorry about the the second one being cutoff but that is what they printed for me

So when driving home. He instructed me to stay in intelligent mode and do not give it more than 10-15% throttle. This was kind of impossible for me because you really can’t get up to speed with that throttle. He said as long as I stayed under 30% and eased into it. It would be fine. Said to drive about 10 miles this way. Obviously stopping every so often and starting back at first gear and working your way up.

DO NOT USE MANUAL MODE!!! LET THE TCM DO ITS JOB DURING THIS

Drove all the way home (28 miles) and it shifted as smooth as butter. Not one bang shift. Not one bang downshift. I stayed in 10-30% throttle the entire time

It seems that my issue is corrected. The bangs only really happened at very low throttle so today’s scenario was when it would happen. Obviously I’ll know more as I drive it more and am able to go into sport and sport sharp and give it some sauce. As of right now it seems okay.

I urge you to just go to the dealer if you haven’t already for this issue and inquire about the update. If you look at my first pic it shows you which 08 vins were affected. They charged me 1 hour labor. Totally worth if this solves everything.

Hope this helps anyone with the same issue and I will update this as I learn more.

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Pardon my ignorance but what is the TSB for?

 

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It’s for the 2-3 3-2 slam shift. New software supposedly corrects it

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Going to the dealer today to address TSB 11-90-08. Hopefully this should clear up any bangs I have in second to third. Hopefully it was never done and this solves my last issue. Having a proper relearn done in the lift after that. I’ll let you all know if it made a difference.

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Is there a reason I wouldnt put the bracket back on or are you saying it's easy to forget about?

The bracket is just a pain if you need to do any work in there. It was easier to not put it back and extend 1 wire. Btw if you’re in there doing all this you might as well do the secondary air pump delete. After all you’re gonna need a tune anyway so now is the time. All you need is a block off kit

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The little plate on the back end of the butterfly shaft. The passenger side plate sits a few inches from the turbo.

 

Ares- I think that's what I'm going to do. Now I'm tempted to get bigger injectors, the tgv delete and swap out most of the vac hoses underneath the manifold. I'm sure many are like porcelain by now.

Yeah. That’s exactly what I did. I figured as long as I’m removing everything. I might as well remove the fuel brackets and get new injectors in. Just one thing to note. That tgv ground. On the drivers side. If you don’t put the bracket back you will have to extend the ground. Make sure you clean the area super well that you plan on grounding too I didn’t and after a few days my accessport started flashing. Then I did a big pull and the car shut off and would restart. That ground is very important. It’s literally a giant paperweight without it

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I noticed my af learning 1A climbing over the past few weeks. I hooked the smoke machine up and saw smoke rolling out of the tgv plate on the passenger head near the turbo. I saw 1 thread in the archives so I'm hoping to re-open the discussion. Deletes would be the obvious choice but im trying to keep the cost low until I'm ready to rebuild the motor. Will RTV hold if I fill in that hole beneath the plate?

Mine did the same. So I deleted them and put fresh gaskets on the head and manifold

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How much boost are you running?

Almost 20 lbs

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