Ares3985

So I rarely drive my car and decided to take it to work today. First thing in the morning went to get gas. Drove to work like a grandma about 50 miles. Didn’t even look at my AP. When I left work today I decided to get into it a little and felt like I had no power. Look over and see my dam is at 0. Saw the the feedback knock had hit -1.4 which isn’t a big deal. Fine knock had also hit -1.4.

Car was boost leak checked after the last time I drove it cause I blew the throttle body hose off so I know i don’t have leaks and boost hit almost 21 lbs on throttle.

no codes triggered or pending.

One problem I did see was that at full throttle my afr on my wideband was only at 12.xx when it’s usually in the 10’s. Im not sure if it is only at 12 possibly because now it isn’t getting as much load since all the timing is pulled back.

No noise from the engine and other than not having power it drives normal.

Im thinking I got some bad gas possibly. If anyone has any insight on this issue I would appreciate it. Thanks guys

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If your end goal is to get a new/different turbo I would uninstall the FMIC and wait until you have both ready to go then get a new tune for the FMIC w/ new turbo.

 

That declining DAM isnt going to fix itself until remove the FMIC is removed or you buy a revision/tune.

Well screwed now. Now that cobb changed the tuning software. It’s either wait and see if the dam corrects or sell the front mount.

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You need a tune. I'm not mechanically inclined but pretty much everything I've found regarding going FMIC says it's needed because you changed airflow. You can get a tune now for it and revision for turbo.

Yeah I’m going to call tomorrow. The only reason I second guessed it is because a lot of threads on here say you don’t. Maybe they can revise my current tune for a cheaper price. Doubt it tho lol

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So over the winter I installed a FMIC. Reading mixed reviews of whether I actually need a new tune or a new tune would just give me more power. Anyway. Took it out for the first time today and all guage readings were good. No abnormal fuel correction or af learning. I did not get any FKL and feedback went to 1.4 but it does that every once and while and I never really think too much of it. Anyway, my DAM dropped to .750. I’m leaning more towards bad gas since the car has been sitting for 4+ months. Anyone have any input? If the general consensus is the tune I am going to get a new turbo as well. What do you guys think? Oh. Before anyone says a leak. I smoke tested and pressure tested everything when I was done so I know nothing is leaking.

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You shouldn’t have to do that. Don’t force the install screw if the dampener has pulled at an angle after catching on the rivet head. It can take a bit of effort, but pull the dampener back in line with your fingers so both sides are pulled in straight with the install screw. Lubing the install screw threads & the dampener is a must, as is loosening both top & bottom uni-joint bolts (clean any lube from the dampener threads before fitting the final shorter M6x60mm screw). Obviously make sure the screws aren't cross threaded.

 

I hope you have better luck with the new screw.

Yeah it went in this time. Still fought me terribly tho. After all that. Not sure if I like it. The 15 STI rack alone was awesome. With lockdown may be too much now. Gonna drive it a few more times before I make a final decision.

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By invasive do you mean any long term detrimental issues caused by fitting this lockdown? If so, I don’t know what long term affect it would have on the rubber dampener due to it now being under more compression, but I don’t think it will make a lot of difference. Without the lockdown the rubber dampener flexes as the steering wheel turns & with it it hardly flexes at all, so is that better for the life of the rubber or worse? You can see the difference in compression between the 2nd image & the last image in the install instruction pdf download here.

 

The WRX STi doesn’t have this rubber dampener but I don’t know what differences there are between the steering column & the rack except for hydraulic assist instead of electric assist.

 

One concern was additional kickback through the steering, but when driving over our goat track roads it didn’t feel like there was any more, but if there was it was only very minor.

 

My main concern was how my better half would cope with the now precise steering on the highway. After she had driven the car for a while I asked the question “would you prefer that I removed the dampener lockdown” & got a quick rather stern “Don’t you take this off, it makes the steering just right – I like it” reply.

 

Some information on the install that may be helpful to anyone fitting this:

 

Keep in mind I fitted this to the RHD version of the USDM LHD Legacy 3.6R so it may be easier to install on the RHD models - I gained more access by removing the air filter case to throttlebody hose pipe. I did the install from the top, the cat on the 3.6R inhibits access from underneath – the service manual actually says to remove the cat to replace the steering uni-joints.

 

The top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt was easy to access & there was plenty of room to fit the dampener lockdown. I found the bottom steering rack uni-joint clamp screw the hardest to undo & re-tighten due to the limited space around that bolt & the way the shape of the uni-joint inhibits fitting a ring spanner to the bolt in the in-line direction. A short socket & small 1/4” drive ratchet wouldn’t fit in the available space so the steering had to turned to just the right position so the spanner & socket could be worked sideways.

 

The engine needed to be running to turn the wheels for bolt access & left/right half turns prior to the uni-joint clamp bolt tightening – a couple of pieces of cardboard under the front wheels helped the wheels to turn on the garage floor.

 

I followed the install instructions exactly except for the following:

 

By applying grease to the two halves’ outer mating surfaces of the lockdown & to the thread of the M6x70mm install screw made fitting the dampener easy. A 3/8” drive M5 hex bit socket with 3/8” to 1/4” adapter & short 1/4” drive ratchet worked much better than the supplied M5 allan key. One half of the dampener caught on the rivet head & started to pull in at an angle when partially fitted, so this required pulling back into line with my fingers so that both sides were pulled in straight with the install screw. I cleaned the grease from the internal threads of the lockdown half with isopropyl alcohol before fitting the shorter M6x60mm screw with the supplied thread locker.

 

The install instructions didn’t mention the order the two uni-joint clamp bolts should be re-tightened. I found the re-tightening order & the adjustment of the steering column tilt position very important. After fitting the dampener lockdown I re-tightened from the two turns undone position the top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt first & the bottom steering rack uni-joint clamp bolt last with the steering wheel/column in my preferred tilt position. This caused a clicking noise in the steering column as the steering wheel was turned to the right when driving forward after a left lock in reverse (two clicks that sounded like it was coming from the blinker cancel mechanism).

 

I found the solution to this in the service manual. The service manual cautions that when the uni-joint clamp bolts are tightened after replacing the uni-joints, the top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt should be tightened last with the steering column tilt adjustment lever locked with the column in the neutral downward tilted position. By undoing then re-tightening the bolts following this procedure I totally eliminated the clicking noise when the steering column was back in my preferred tilt position. So it is very important to follow this tightening procedure as part of the install instead of tightening the top bolt first with the column in the preferred tilt position.

I had the same problem with it tilting on the rivet. After multiple attempts the bolt actually bent and stripped. Had to order more bolts for it. Wondering why it didn’t go in. Maybe shaving the rivet channel on the plate will help. Don’t really wanna do that tho.

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I have to take mine in for the recall. I was kind of hoping the dash would break. Saves me like $1300 if they mess it up

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Check your hoses on the turbo. Mine was stubborn and wasn’t fully on and I kept getting little drips that would go right on the uppipe and smoke. Would notice it when I stopped. Sometimes it’s the simplest things

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Update.. I'm hitting all the tranny threads;

 

There is a TSB on the CVT for possible leaks up to 100k miles.. So I recommend ALL of you check it closely because Unfortunately I had my transmission replaced at 94k miles because it was a area where Subaru Techs weren't allowed to repair it..

 

Now at 137,000 only 43k miles later I have another leak and it's out of Warranty.. So get ready to grab your seats.. I asked my dealership how much was Labor for Removal and Install to diagnose the problem they told me $1,150.00.. Here it comes if it's determined that the same area is leaking and a New Transmission is needed that will cost $9,000 and thats a refurbished Transmission... I'm so frustrated right now and waiting on a reply from SOA because I feel transmission shouldn't fail again at 43k Miles..

 

I'll keep u guys posted..

 

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I’ve contacted soa twice about certain issues and they told me both times to kick rocks

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You may have heard of a saying, "its all in the tune".

 

There is a reason some of us only recommend two Tuners.

Well I used junior barrios jrtuned. So I’d say I’m fine

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Just wish it were MT, is the first thing.

 

 

I've already spent enough money on this car.

 

 

If I fix the TGV codes soon it will probably be for sale. It's mint for the age and I've kept it that way. Bought from an old friend who really takes care of his stuff.... was his now-ex-wife's and she blew it up. The engine rebuild was fun, it's ready for someone to mod it out.

 

 

I just really like the body style of the 05-06 LGT. If I were going to keep it, sell other vehicles, and go stupid on this thing, it'd be FMIC, non-turbo hood, remove useless spoiler, and make a nice sleeper making probably 100 more hp than it does.

Wish mine was an mt too but the autos had way lower miles when I was looking. Wasn’t too keen on buying an mt with 180k on it lol. I got mine at 100 so it gives me a little peace of mind.

I don’t worry too much about getting on mine. I know my afr are on point and I monitor my knock religiously. Always check fluids before driving even though I don’t put any miles on it really. I guess if it’s gonna happen it’s gonna happen anyway but she seems good for now

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Thats good. I figured it can’t be that bad because you’re still making good torque. I just figure that sudden bump might the feel off a bit. Bet that pull to the torque peak feels wicked.

Oh it does. Throws you back. Makes the car feel faster than it really is lol

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From the looks of that torque curve you may be able to feel the torque rolling off after that peak. Looks like it hits really hard but then rolls off somewhat sharply. As it comes down its still in a very respectable range but your butt dyno may feel that and you may perceive it as not pulling as hard as you expect it to. Do you feel like it pulls hard all the way from stomp to redline or do you feel like there’s a kind of plateau in the power? What I’m getting at is you may not need more power but an adjustment to the way it’s delivered.

You can feel the difference but you def still feel it pulling. It’s not too bad to redline.

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Good, remember what I've learned about these cars. They like to be driven for long distance. My Spec only gets driven a few times a month, but when it does it for at least 10 miles highway one way to Saturday night dinner.

 

You need to get the oil hot enough to boil the moisture out of it.

Yeah I’m the same way. I have a nice cruise route I go on. It’s prob like 15 miles each way

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He may have backed it off a bit to be safe.

 

Either way, I'm sure most of us would be more then happy with what you got.

 

Now, is the car fun to drive ? reliable ?

 

If yes, be happy and move on.

 

I would suggest you send a oil sample off the Blackstone Labs and see how things are doing. Pick a good oil and filter, do the proper maintenance keep an eye on oil usage.

You’re right prob should just leave it where it is. More power would be fun but idk if it’s worth risking it. It actually runs great. Fun to drive. 0 knock. No issues it all. Doesn’t consume oil. Although I prob wouldn’t notice oil consumption cause I only drive it once and a while anyway. I actually did a sample about 1500 miles ago. That was when I only had Cobb stage 2 but everything was perfect.

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Finally got my graph. So apparently the power they told me wasn’t exactly right on. Idk why they told me different but it didn’t make 306/375. It made 300/364. Which isn’t really that far off but not sure why they told me different

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06 LGT wagon 5eat

 

285/317 Dynojet tuned @ Precision Tuning

 

20psi

 

BNR 16g evo 3

1050x top feed conversion

TGV delete

AEM 340 pump

Aeromotive FPR w/ Parallel fueling

G/S TMIC

IAG AOS (Comp)

Stock intake to turbo except AEM panel filter

Stock bpv

2018 ej257

Heads rebuilt w/shimmed springs (Headgames)

ARP studs

Transgo vb kit

Fluidamper

 

 

The tuner explained that it’s making that power easily and safely so I can enjoy the car without concern of blowing it up. I definitely enjoy the car!

 

The way I understand it the amount of loss through the subaru automatic drivetrain can be as much as 30%+. That said an automatic car making 300whp could be making ~430bhp. So for the sake of longevity 300whp might be the right place for stock internals on an auto LGT.

 

Reason for the printout is so you can analyze the power curve. Ideally you’d want smooth power delivery right up to redline not a spike of power then drop off (dyno queen).

 

Don’t forget with the hot weather we have right now here in NJ your butt dyno might be reading a little low on power.

Yeah I’m working on getting it. I was supposed to have it by end of day yesterday. Never arrived. I know they are crazy busy at the place I go so I’ll try again today

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Idk, you seem like you had a less than stellar experience. no dyno run prinout, no response from tuner, you want to make more horsepower than you have, etc.

 

did you tell them up front you wanted 400hp? Any decent tuner, given a set of parameters, can tune your car to match or help you assemble the parts to reach your goal.

 

If you just wanted a dyno queen, why didn't you get a bigger turbo?

No I didn’t tell them I wanted 400. After a little of driving tho u want some more. That’s all it is. They were actually awesome aside of the no dyno printout. If I called them I’m sure I could get it. Assuming they keep it on file which I think they do. I just never did.

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You got tuned or just dyno run? Either way, I'd ask for your money back. A dyno run without a printout, isn't really a run.

It was tuned. Why would a piece of paper or a lack thereof make me want to ask for my money back?

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use a different dyno. you'll get bigger numbers. dynojet will make you happy.

 

Otherwise I dont understand the question. You could tune a 1000hp on a stock shortblock. It probably won't run very long, but it's been done. Anyone who's interested in decent reliability isn't running 400hp on their stock block.

 

Also, 306/375? Dyno chart? boost level?

Which is why I asked if anyone was running that with any sort of reliability.

20 psi.

He never gave me my chart. I was last of the day and I emailed them and they didn’t respond. Kind of gave up after that. I should probably call them to get it tho

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STOCK BLOCKS ONLY

how much power are you making on your stock block?

What are your mods? Turbo specifically

5MT or 5EAT

How long have you been running it?

What type of dyno did you tune on?

Looking to find people who are making decent power on their stock block with some sort of reliability. I want to bump up to 400 but have my concerns

I’ll start

306/375

FBO

VF52

1050x injectors

340lph pump

5EAT

Tuned on mustang dyno

Running it for 500 miles. Don’t really drive the car.

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X2! Keep us posted, I like the SS braided hose that gives it a nice clean look. Where’d you get the cans from?

The cans I got on amazon they were like $17 each and the hose also amazon. It was $20 for 10 feet which was perfect amount. $71 for the full setup which is still less then 1 Mishimoto can and wayyyy less than a radium setup. Only thing I didn’t like is the cans have no gasket on top for the inlet and out. Just used some permatex. Also the fittings were hand tight so I tightened them down. Smoke tested each can before install. Added some steel wool to the cans. So far so good. Prob be a while before I get enough condensation and oil to tell if it’s working. Only issue I see is that I will have to remove the cans to drain. Not too big a deal. I can always add drains later on.

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So I ended up making my own catch can system. It’s kind of overkill lol. I used three cans. One for each valve cover and one for the pcv. I know I didn’t need three but now everything is independent.

So for anyone who wants to know how to run the lines I’ll tell you how I did it.

For each head I used the front port breather. This is the one that eventually leads back to the inlet. I went from that port into the catch can and from the catch can back to the crossover pipe that this port was originally connected to. This was done on each side.

The third catch can I went from the pcv valve. Attached at the white plug which is the one that goes back to the inlet. Went from there to the catch can and from the catch can to the inlet.

Now we wait and see if the oil gets into the cans

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I used 2 grimmspeed gaskets. No issues

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Niagara Falls/Buffalo area NY. We have two Subaru dealerships within a 50 mile radius. Both are large scale dealerships but I question their enthusiasm, especially towards the older models.

 

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Oh I saw WNY thought you lived in West New York New Jersey. Figured If you did I had the place for you.

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