SBT

^ We're not Nasalock and the LGT crew are much more refined their SoCal crew so no worries.

You're looking at ~$350 parts and labor. Presume that this is the 1st 60K service so it's not that intrusive or involved and you could do it for less if you bought the parts at discount and did most of the labor yourself, i.e., oil/air filters, belts (if needed), tranny and diff fluids, coolant/conditioner, and probably a few things I'm forgetting.

Since you're in the Irvine/FV area give Ron Kang at SouthCoast Subaru a call, or Matt at HB Speed. HB Speed can probably do it cheaper, but either one could give you an estimate.

HTH.

+1

Ditto - please

SBT, that is a Cusco STB that i've painted. There are some rubbing issues on the top right corner that I was able to combat by shoving a rubber gasket inbetween them.

Thanks B! Thought it looked like a Cusco one, but the paint color thru me off. I'm looking at an STI one right now, but if it doesn't fit, I can still pick it up and install it when the FMIC is finally fitted up.

stb?

Strut tower brace... sorry.

Nice walkthrough westy. Here's mine:

 

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb93/bpotts1/2878028346_0343ef3208_b.jpg

See you're running an STB. What version/type? Anyone running the Perrin with the STI STB? Any fitment issues?

^ then why bother? If you have no other mods the stock IC is fine.

Agreed, even with AP Stage 1, you're not going to see that much boost on the stock IC.

^ not sure but think the "major WHP loss" was a tongue-in-cheek comment.

Seriously, can anyone post up a picture of the "trimming" that needs to be done to make the engine cover "fit" the P-TMIC and what's the best approach/tool to use for the trimming.

18.4 psi is a good starting point, but there are some who will need more...

Keep up the great work.

You would have to trim the engine cover quite a bit to get it to fit. It's been done.

Any issues with hood scoop sealing or consistent airflow across the whole surface of that monster?

Thanks Westy - Nicely done!

So the engine cover will not fit with the Perrin TMIC installed? I'd heard/seen this on the earlier versions (3-4 years ago), but haven't been watching recent improvements.

Hi,

My 2000 LGT Wagon has reported a cylinder 2 misfire on my OBD Reader. Knowing that I recently (6 months) replaced the Coil, wires and plugs, is there anything else that could cause this? It's not consistent but the Check Engine light will come on periodically. I also notice a sputtering of the engine at high acceleration but only when I really accelerate quickly. The mileag is 166,000.

Thanks In Advance

Joe

Any issues with coolant temps or with coolant loss? You might actually have a cracked head gasket, or at least one that's going.

Pull your #2 wire off at the coil pack and at the spark plug end. Look for any corrosion at either end. Possibly getting an arc to ground which will carbon up the connectors very quickly and if you do have carbon clean that up (on both sides of the connection) and coat it with some good dielectric grease in there to keep it from corroding.

BTW - were these all Subaru OEM replacement parts (coil pack and wires). If not, you may want to put OEMs on as some AM sets have been known to produce MF codes.

He is talking about front lower lateral link that allows adjustment of camber.

 

Btw, Subietonic, the cast piece in the rear is trailing arm not control arm (LCA).

Correct on both points. I had just replaced my front LCA bushings and all I had in mind was the physical similarity (round and soft) between the rear front TA bush and the front LCA bush. Sorry for any confusion

The idea isn't to install a hard bushing in the rear arm, but to eliminate the "air pockets" just as is done for the diff bushings. Actually removing and replacing that bushing would take effort significantly greater than the worth.

 

I have eliminated the "air pockets" in those bushings just as I did in the diff bushings, with PCV inserts and 3M Poly goop. It would be difficult to apply a fix similar to the WL inserts for the rear diff bushings. That is, if there are any inserts that would fit. But it is necessary to address them somehow, in a similar manner, if control of the rear tires is desired.

 

With all the bushing modifications plus the transmission insert/bushing I have NO NOISE under almost all conditions. Once, on a bad surface, with torque brakeing to 3200rpm I had one event.... once. Otherwise I can take off at 4.2 to 4.5 0-60 times all day long without any noises whatsoever. ALL the car does is leap forward.

 

As for alignment, camber or otherwise, that rear arm bushing doesn't control it, nor is the rear alignment adjustable. By centering the bolt/bushing in the rubber bushing with inserts, then solidifying them in with the 3M poly, the rear tires stop having the ability to try and outrun each other, back and forth. Also, after coilovers and lowering, plus firming all the aforementioned bushings as well as installing the poly front LCA bushing (an almost necessary mod IMHO), my tire wear has been perfect through two sets of tires. I added a little front camber on purpose. with the adjustment bolt.

There are some that are running rear adjustable lower control arms, which enables a lot of negative camber dial-in, at the expense of torquing the rear LCA bushing. Hardening (removing the air space) the rear front LCA bushing would prohibit this for those going this route.

I don't want tranny mount, I believe it makes NVH much worse. As for engine mounts, I could not tell they are any different than stock NVH wise.

Was just going to ask this. Good to know. Anyone upgraded their pitch stop too to see if this contributes to the driveline-alignment (growl issue)?

not true. adjusting camber by changing thedistance between the knuckle and rear subframe with adjustable rear LCAs is not a hack. thats how rear toe is adjusted from the factory.

Note my "significant" camber qualifier. You can't get very much negative camber with the factory setup.

You could always switch to a live rear axle

@ rao

No camber plates in the rear possible, it's multilink not strut setup there.

Exactly - left that off of my comment above.

^ And if you do install a hard front bush in the rear LCA say goodbye to any significant camber back there as that is where most would be getting it. Short of installing top camber plates.

As Uncle Mat says, camber via the rear LCA is hack.

seanlsb - ^ More critical reviews here

Would really hate to be the Z owner...that sucks.

Yeah, I'm talking about the thin insert for the "unused" rail that quiets them down. The thin little things.

That slide into place in the groove in the bottom edge and then are held in place by the end cap?

OD?

 

I'd have to measure but it's the stock ones.

 

Would like these:

http://www.prolineracks.com/mont-blanc-3700-aero-wing-crossbars.html

 

Are these ours even though they sea *NEW*?

http://www.prolineracks.com/mont-blanc-3700-crossbars.html

Yes - the outside dimensions

Don't know if those "flatter" aero 3700AW bars would be a strong in the middle (unless they're solid) as the our rectangular (Thule-like) or even round bars (Yakima-like). And yes, the 3700 series are updated versions of our OEM bars/mount system.