SBT

I'm more impressed that CVT didn't overheat and completely cut power, which seems to be an issue with the Outback's while doing heavy off roading (TFL's Gold Mine Hill tests).

 

Still though, if the Ascent was 6-9 speed auto, I would be much more thrilled about it. Doing even oil changes is stupid expensive and hard on CVT's.

 

On the other side, it's not enough power for me. Zero to 60 in 7 seconds is barely faster then the 6mt outback, thus I would want to mod it a bit , but CVT would probably grenade from the extra power

While I have no empirical data to support it, the Ascent was designed in Japan, by Subaru engineers, and they over-engineer everything...

So I do have confidence that they have mated the CVT with more than adequate cooling - especially given it's 5K towing capability - to keep it from boiling itself internally and forcing out of the routine fluid changes.

For the same reason, I believe they've also engineered this CVT to take the demands of high-torque loading, given the 6,000 vehicle and occupancy weight, and 5000 lb towed-vehicle weight (11,000 lbs total).

My expectation is that there's some headroom for modest engine tweaking - if the ECU will even allow it - probably at or under the 300-350 curve.

Impressive.

CR - that looks like it might even make it up your driveway in similar conditions.

Edit above because when I click "edit", nothing comes up on my thread post.

Looks like you're already "in", but the other thought on the SL grease is that it definitely helps the seal to "seal".

Awesome, thank you.

You are right, it’s the first result for that search, it’s actually 1 of only 2 results. :-D

I did buckets back on my old ‘99 outback, but that was when everything was out of the engine bay.

 

I’ll have to think about that, if I’m going that deep, I’m at 80k on my current timing belt...

Hopefully the dealer has my gaskets in soon and I can get that part taken care of.

Use SuperLube or another silicon grease, to 1) help you slide them completely into their recesses, and 2) to help them seal and keep them more pliant (soft) over time.

Using SL will make it a lot easier, especially if you're not removing the IM and just "lifting" it up.

Obviously, make sure you keep the contact surfaces clean and debris free so you don't inadvertently drag some of that in with the new gasket(s).

A nice, simple (brilliant) smoke test machine by the same YT member

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U5kFib1WxE]DIY Smoke Test Machine for under $20 EVAP System - YouTube[/ame]

NM - Reading greater than me today. Thought you were looking for the Spec B stay to make the STI STS work, but that's only half of the equation.

As unclemat stated, the 08-12 STI is essentially the same chassis as the 4th Gen Legacy for measure (length) purposes, but that part number does not cross to any Legacy chassis.

It is typically the stay length and the shifter rod length that is the issue, which is why many have just lengthened the stock STI version to get everything to line-up and the shifter itself to play nice with the trim surround.

To make an STI shifter, including (possibly) the STI STS that you reference, work, you'll need the Spec B Stay and the Shifter Rod.

Shifter Stay Complete is: P/N P/N 35031AG020- item 30531 in the diagram above

Shifter Rod Complete is: P/N 35041AG020 - item 30541 in the diagram above

Both are available through a Subaru parts reseller.

So not sure whether you have an STI 6MT shifter already, or don't, but your best bet is to find one and add the Spec B stay and shift rod. Should be able to pickup one on eBay for reasonable price, Or, you could order the one that unclemat suggests and give it a go. I defer to his knowledge on the topic. You could also add in a KB STS while you're adding in the Spec B bits.

Hope that helps.

That part number turns up as 5mt? It doesn't appear to have the reverse lockout.

 

 

 

Is the idea to Frankenstein my stock 6mt linkage with this one? I already have the Kartboy 6mt STS....looking for the STI linkage.

Sorry, copied the wrong P/N: 35031AG020 Spec B specific shifter stay $36.48 here.

The vehicle options this part fits:

• Production Date: 01/2008-04/2009
  
• Fitting Vehicle Options: 6MT
  

Item 35031 in this diagram - clearly shows the 6MT reverse lockout.

Unclemat, can you confirm that the STI 6mt part number is C1010FG600? I think the one quoted is for the 5mt.

 

I am looking for the Spec b specific C1010AG101 but as noted by others, no longer available.

 

Do you believe the STI part number will drop right in without additional parts?

 

I am intending to install the front LSD, STI flywheel and Exeedy stage 1 clutch kit with this shifter. Any oddball parts I should add to my shopping list?

 

Thanks!

C1010FA002 is the P/N for the OEM Spec B Short Throw Shifter which includes all of this. It is available for $225ish

Zach at ZF Design here in Colorado. He builds all the Subaru rally car transmissions. Yes, this is still my spec B trans, with an STI torsen front diff and a DCCD center diff installed. I wanted to keep my 6th gear ratio for top speed. I was getting a grind on down shifting to 4th. I ended up replacing all the synchros (carbon ones for 1-4), second gear, a shift fork, and a couple other things. I don't want to have to ever do this again.

 

I spoke to iWire yesterday and got some help on the DCCD wiring to get the two wires into the cabin. It will look a lot more professional than what I had envisioned. I am pretty confident now on the pin outs for the ECU. I'll report back once I have it actually tested.

Excellent!

I know there's a flat spot on the Spec B and Forester STI 6MT trans where the DCCD wiring would come out of the case on the STI.

Did Zack just drill-out the case and install the wiring and grommet to enable full DCCD connectivity at that spot?

Would be interested to know what that priced-out for everything?

You put a DCCD in a Spec B trans? First I've heard of it. Who did the conversion for you?

Hope someone will chime in on the WH as I'm interested but only have an 08 Spec B trans at this point.

I've played this game for quite a few years on FWD cars

 

I was really impressed by the puller, will definitely go straight to that next time for any stuck splines. Horrible photo, but this is the one i used:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-master-hub-puller-kit-648608/9150001-P

AllTrade - an LA-based company - makes this set for several companies including PowerBuilt.

Better Picture of the set. It's AllTrade 648608 on Amazon.

There was no hand felt play, but after 200 miles I did see it come out a little:

That looks like it needs a thick washer to keep that bushing shift in check.

It was something like that, but it was a larger format and had touch screen functionality AIR.

But think it was ScanGauge something or other.

Follow up on this: it's the turbo/AVCS hard line. I don't know how I broke it' date=' but it's spewing oil everywhere. Ordered a braided line from IAG, hopefully, I don't have to take the intake manifold off to install it.[/quote']

 

 

STR there is a TSB on this for the 08s

The other bit about towing on highway, grade or otherwise, is that all four wheels are on essentially flat tractive surface. Not so when you get out in the willy-wags.

I'm sure the CVT will be fine with a load on behind, over most of the hilly and mountain pass highways in this country. The one exception would be starting from a dead-stop with 5,000 lbs out behind on a 6-10% grade - think accident further up the mountain and it's all stop and go.

That would challenge most EATs, and other manufacturer's CVT offerings would probably give up on the first try (think NISSAN), but I think Subaru's Lineratronic HD-CVT might actually manage it well enough for the short term.