AWDFTW

My 2003 Outback was one of the lowest cost to own vehicles I ever had. Purchased at 63000 miles, sold at 166000 miles. Still on the road with current owners around the 230000 miles point. Replaced cv axles a few times, and a front wheel bearing. Everything else was just standard maintenance work as age and miles accumulated.

Now my OBXT is spendy, but in a different kinda way...

^^^ what he said.

My used AP had no maps on it, and I only put the Stage 1 map on it when I married it to my OBXT. Because why would I put every potential map I could use on it?

Since Cobb did the big delete for Stage 2 and beyond...

Does anyone have a Stage 2 OTS map for a V3 Sub-002 AP in relation to a 2006 Outback XT automatic transmission they could email me?

Wanting to install a used Cobb DP but I have some more work here and there before done and ready for a protune.

oh no, even the 2021 Outback XT gets an Accessport from Cobb.

No it doesn't.

they have one for...outback xt so im not sure why won't do it other then there isn't a big enough market for them

Not past 2009 they don't.

I have:

DAM

AF correction

Boost

Feedback knock correction

Fine knock learn

Coolant temp

https://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-dry-con-air-filters/

Anyone running one of these yet? I'm tempted, just for the no oiling and should last the life of the car with occasional cleaning aspect.

OEM spin on external filter is like $20 bucks.

That said, on my old 2003 it was rust seized on and more hassle than it was worth to deal with removing.

Drain and fill is easy.

Skip the Lucas. Not needed. Fresh Dex III will make that old 4 speed auto happy.

I live in northeast TN, so couple options.

Discount Auto Service

Johnson City, TN

(423) 283-4838

https://www.discountautoservicetn.com/

https://www.facebook.com/DiscountAutoService/

Fastech Motorsports

Knoxville, TN

(865) 233-0598.

https://fastechmotorsports.com/

BOXER4RACING

Marshall NC 28753

(828) 683-9218

https://boxer4racing.com/

Sorta?

My parents bought my 2006 OBXT brand new. It's mine now.

I'm not. I have a slush-o-matic and while I'm ok with not shifting this car(daily beat-around) I am jealous of the many DPs that come up for sale that work for you gear changers.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

A freaking men.

I just want a used Cobb DP for my auto XT. Universe says nope, drop a grand on a new one lol. Bank says, whelp-stage 1 we stay then.

I have COBB inlet and it does barely fit under the intake. What's worse it large enough to put some pressure on turbo tank hoses that run down to radiator - they are squeezed between the COBB inlet and hood. This far it did not create any issues other that leaving a large imprint on the OEM blanket that's clipped to hood underneath.

 

The one "gotcha" moment about COBB was trimming it to fit length wise. It is not entirely easy job to do due to space limitations and accessibility. I almost cut off too much before catching myself and remeasuring again. OEM is molded to fit 100%.

 

Also, PCV hose was difficult to run due to size of COBB and location of the nipples on COBB so I had to route it differently. I didn't run into any issues, but COBB supplied hose is already cracking in multiple places.

Do you have the original or version 2 model?

I REALLY wish I have the spare change for that intercooler. But Nooooooooo, gotta replace the dishwasher and hot water heater.

Stupid adulting.

Debating this myself. My OEM made it to almost 15 years before starting to leak. But it isn't all that much cheapr than a Cobb inlet, so I'm undecided currently.

Seeing OEM in the $100ish range and a Conn around $200.

So this winter I'll be alternating my 2006 OBXT and the old 02 H6 wagon as my daily commuters depending on some assorted circumstances. Come spring it'll be time for some tune up/servicing/upgrades on the XT.

XT thus far has:

Cobb V3 AccessPort with Stage 1 91 octane OTS tune.

Bulletproofing kit on TMIC as leaks were starting.

Subtle Solutions radiator shroud.

Bolts soaking in Liquid Wrench to inspect or remove banjo bolt filters.

Fresh oil change of Castrol 0W40 with Fram Ultra oil filter and a Fumoto valve.

Here's what I have so far to install in the spring:

Air filter (paper)

Spark plugs (OEM NGK type)

PCV assembly (OEM Subaru)

Grimmspeed crank pulley, used

Accessory belts, new

Unknown brand catless uppipe, used

Grimmspeed turbo heatshield, used

Some ReflectAGold tape for heatshield

Still searching and/or saving for:

TBD turbo inlet, see below

Cobb/Perrin/somebody post MAF tube

Cobb/somebody throttle body to TMIC coupler

Cobb catted downpipe for 5EAT, used if can be found

Thermal Solutions uppipe blanket?

Questions:

I saw some tears forming on my turbo inlet right where it meets the turbo. Looks like I can get get an OEM Subaru one for $100ish or a Cobb one for $200ish. It is worth the $$$ difference for a daily driver with reliability in mind? This isn't a track car, it's my dadwagon. Dependable and MPG (lol but turbo tho) are more important than skidpad and top speed for me.

Should I pull the intake manifold off for all this work? I'd really rather not if I can avoid it at all, but the PCV and inlet intimidate me with the room to work.

Other than keeping the fluids fresh, what else if anything should I be looking for as far as reliability improver upgrades should I be looking at?

My basic powerplant plans are to replace as many vacuum lines as I can reach during this, get to Stage 2 if I can find a DP with my currently available budget, acquire protune after Stage 2, and then drive until the wheels fall off with any further power upgrades being replacements due to wear at that point (like upgrading to a VF52 or BNR 16g, and/or TMIC replacement, etc). She's only got 125,000ish miles and I'd like to get 250,000ish out of her if possible.

Same basic 5EAT as the Legacy platform. The H6 recommends premium instead of requiring it. That said, my H6 feels like I left the parking brake on when I run regular gas in it from the timing correction. As long as it's clean, they don't care on oil type.

I love em.