Deer Killer

Never heard it again after upgrading all my engine/transmission mounts.

I'm trying this and spinning the steering pump and nothing is coming out. Is my pump busted?

Try the other direction? This part shouldn't be hard.

IMHO the pins only appear seized because you haven't relieved the pressure on it from the weight of the transmission. Same root cause for not being able to put the transmission back in and clearance problems with the turbo. Should get the weight zero'd out with the use of the subaru ST which attaches to the pitchfork mount (or improvised one) vs whatever you are using the jack the transmission up.

A quicker and most efficient way is to buy a vacuum bleeder and hook it up to a air compressor. Sucks out all the old fluid in seconds. It leaves no mess and easily done in minutes.

 

There's valving in the steering rack, no way you're getting all the old fluid out without turning the wheel from lock to lock. You would only get the oil fluid out of the lines to/from the rack, if that.

While not totally banished, I can only produce it when it's cold out and I'm accelerating hard from a stand-still into a tight left or right turn. After all the various bushing mods and bracing I did, when it does occur it is now much less subdued; more like somebody knocking on the floorpan with their knuckle rather than hammering away on the unibody with a 5lb sledge.

That's not what I'd call a growl. The only bang on shift I had was resolved by a rear diff bushing insert. Now it simply sounds like the diff is pinned up against the body or something under heavy torque/cold weather/passengers in the rear.

Regardless if it did or didn't, I'm getting that!

 

Why? It does really nothing.. Who cares if the driveshaft moves around a little there, unless it's the source of the noise..

About a week ago I replaced the stock rubber drive shaft center support bushings on my '05 LGT with solid billet aluminum ones from Torque Solution, purchased from FredBeanParts.com.

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/s/tscarrierbearing_1_1_1.jpghttp://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/s/tscarrierbearing2_1_1.jpg

 

While I'm recently just out of the 1000 mile break-in on my new build engine (ringlang failure of OE pistons) and still have not fully thrashed on the new engine, these did seem to add to the solution of eliminating the infamous "growl".

 

These are not a single solution to the problem. As anyone who has followed or read through the entire thread knows the fix is to eliminate as much of the built in "softness" of all of the drive train and rear suspension bushings. Remember, the Legacy was designed to be a "near luxury" sedan so the engineering, especially for the NOAM market, focused on limiting NVH as much as possible, thus the cushy bushings.

 

 

Other mods I've made to remove slop, and in the process eliminate the "growl", include:

 

RalliTEK poly AT mount insert

Beatrush rear differential front member

Whiteline rear differential bushing stiffening inserts

Spec-B rear lower arms (stiffer bushes than GT)

 

Updates? Did it solve the issue?

Anybody had their yakima rack stolen? Hear they are much more prone to theft when compared to the thule rack. Just a matter of prying off with the yakima

 

I assume that's where the $20 for a rack with no keys on craigslist ads all come from..

Everyone with racks - would be great if you could post closeups of the feet. Seems like some of the feet don't fit very well. It seems hard to figure out which ones do, well without going out and buying them...

mattg - can you post part numbers? thanks.

As to trans/turbo clearance; has anyone judiciously filed away a small porting of the trans where it interferes, or maybe filed away enough to make a heavy chamfer to ease installation? The case seems plenty strong enough....

It's tight but I didn't see a problem. And I have/had a larger turbo in there. As long as you go straight in and out it should be fine. Worst case loosen the turbo mounts, no big deal.

 

 

One of my CV axle seal springs came out; any tips on getting it back in correctly w/out pulling (likely damaging) the seal?

 

Thanks.

Replace it. Do not **** with it. It's a $6 part.

-No adjustment is necessary.

 

-Have extra flywheel bolts. Be very careful taking them off. They are dry so they shouldn't seize, but they will be very tight. Even if you get them off you DO NOT want to put mangled T+50 bolts back on, because they will _never_ come off with that much torque. I almost messed one of them up, but luckily it came off. I could only get 4 WRX (4, WTF?) from one of the 5-6 local dealers in the area, so I picked the 4 best T+50 and mixed them with 4 new hex bolts. Good enough.

 

-The 0 marks are only for balance past the precision of the balancer. By not aligning them you can cancel out (vs adding) the partial imbalance of the parts. It is not a big deal if you can't find them, they are probably not there.

 

-flare wrench works great for stopping the flywheel, almost the same thing as the subaru ST.

The service manual is vague and recommends a very complicated way of doing this, and I couldn't find any good walkthroughs for Subaru's. At 115k, my power steering fluid was black/brown and full of some particulates. At full lock it the accessory belt used to complain despite being new and adequately tightened, this no longer happens. Here is a better way, it can be done in 15 minutes and without getting under the car or unbolting the subframe braces.

 

You will need at least 1 qt of oil to do this. I used some left over Valvoline ATF to flush before I repeated the procedure with 1 qt Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF Dexron III.

 

1. Loosen/remove front accessory belt so you can turn the power steering pump with your finger. Since most of us don't have a belt tension tool, you can mark the thread of the tensioner bolt (on the top side) or feel the deflection by hand and match this for when you put it back on.

2. Jack up the front of the car at the center jack point so that the tires are just off the ground and the steering wheel can be turned freely with the engine off.

3. Pull the top hard line (return line) from the power steering fluid reservoir (On the GT this has some aluminum fins for cooling), this will allow you turn it towards the front and place a catch pan for the oil fluid underneath it.

4. Turn the power steering pump by hand, clockwise. Dirty fluid will come out of the return line. Keep turning it until the reservoir is basically empty and you can add new fluid. Try not to completely empty it, however it's not the end of the world if you do, as it will self bleed, and this procedure in itself will bleed air out of the system.

5. Add new fluid to the reservoir all the way to the top (past max). Repeat step 4 until new clean fluid comes out of the the return line.

6. Put the key in and turn it so the steering wheel is unlocked, but DO NOT START the engine.

7. Ensuring that you keep the reservoir full, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock using slow consistent pressure, taking several seconds to do so. Fluid will be pushed out of the rack and into your catch pan. A full reservoir is good for at least one full lock-lock. The fluid coming out will turn back to old fluid and then back to new.

8. Having gone from lock to lock at least once to left and once right, repeat the last step until no old fluid is expelled, once this happens, ensure you leave the reservoir at "COLD MAX" either by adding and removing fluid via turning the pump.

9. Put the return line and accessory belt back on.

 

Check the reservoir level after the next few drives. If you got air into the lines, it will drop, so top it off again.

Just ordered mine... Let's see if the feeling of "I'm gonna die" during braking subsides after it's installed...

My latest avo380 tune with some unique tuning you might all appreciate.

 

The actuator is "lazy", at the moment it seems to me that the avo (among others) actuator has a different internal design than the OEM actuators that really makes them unsuitable for highly responsive ECU control. There's a very large delay in changing the pressure in the actuator which delays movement of the door, which means boost is slow to change in either direction. With my turbo this becomes an issue over 4000rpms where boost rises very quickly, even with no WGDC the actuator will not respond quickly enough to prevent a boost spike due to the internal volume. Based on this theory I've done the following to my tune, and it works incredibly well for "normal" driving - going WOT after a shift. Boost gauge needle looks like it hits a brick wall, and stays there. On a dyno it may be disappointing because you may never hit the WGDC plateau (look at TD proportional at 0 psi!!!). Spool in 3rd+ from a digg may be slow too, but no one does this outside of a dyno pull. The OEM actuators seemed to be designed around this but I simply haven't had the time to take one and modify it to fit the avo.. It will require a lot of welding a cutting that I don't have the time to do right now. If anyone can source me one, especially on that has a flat mounting plate attached (VF34's I think) feel free to let me know. TD integral is also set with maximum response values across the board - this is again mostly a function of the actuator volume. Pretty much sucks imho.

 

The other thing to notice is the primary fuel map, it's been modified to have stable cold start idle when you have TGV's deleted. The number you have to beat is 14.41, I turned mine up a bit to save fuel on cold start, but you could easily make this lower for better cold starts if necessary. Pay attention to the load columns. If this doesn't make your cold starts rock solid - replace your front O2 sensor.

avo380 rev92 legacygt.com.pdf

I would not suggest this strategy, due to it leading to premature turbo failure. I would suggest running the engine like a well tuned N/A engine until it gets into boost, this means running it lean and with increased ignition advance. After all, the engine is operating just like an N/A engine that has some slight back-pressure (from the turbo).

This is called footprinting, and this is something we are looking to implement on the next version of AccessTUNER Race.

 

Take care,

Christian.

Is this bearing failure from compressor surge? I've had a tough time getting close to the surgeline on the avo380. I know the stock turbo will get there with just AVCS.

 

Also how lean is lean? I haven't gotten anything noticeable by going from 12's to 13's, other than fuel economy. The timing changes had the most significant effect.

Increases EGT's.. I believe I heard someone say something like 10-15C per degree, but that might be BS. The butt dyno says I don't miss 5 degrees at all, more torque sooner it seems.

it's an str file.

Is there anyway to make the live tracing leave a trail?

 

This would be immensely useful. Right now it's log, import data into excel, interpolate timing map, compare, adjust corresponding cells on ST, retry.

 

How many degrees of timing do you guys pull for spool? Unfortunately my spool region intersects with highway economy, anyone work around this?

 

Also - has anyone else found issues with the throttle axis on boost targets? I have a weird incident where TD did not activate even though the conditions were met, past TD threshold, past throttle, in the right rpm row. Took going to ~78% throttle for TD to kick in. Of course my boost control strategy is unique.

 

This is after pulling 5 degrees. Need more spool! (Many parts of this map are not fully tuned.)

avo380.pdf

Is there anyway to make the live tracing leave a trail?

Nothing happens when I click on "datalog", is this because I have street tuner standard? Note: using AP or OpenPort.

 

Also it seems that live tuning does not work with OpenPort 1.3, 2.2.4.0 6/27/2007. Locks up the system hard after 15-100 seconds with live tracing on

ST noob: I haven't married the car to the ST AP yet, am I ok to sort out my base map first and then flash that, or do I have to use the one that the ST installer put on the AP and then change it?

I wish! 6 cars pulled over in 15 miles in 15 minutes.

Here are all the tables in ST advanced:

 

I don't think they have been put up before.

What does "Cruise Speed" do? I just joined the club today, but non-advanced.

If it doesn't go on with little to no pressure, it's not on.. I almost thought I cross-threaded the plug at first, ugh. IMHO #4 is more of a challenge, but hopefully you got practice on #3.