stewdogg

Is there a possibility the trunk light is staying on somehow? Maybe pull the bulb and see how the next 4 months go...?

I hope it's the trunk light over a parasitic drain, those suck to find normally and worse when they're a random issue.

Sucks you're having an issue with the car! What are the fault codes?

I wish you were in the states, I would love that car for scrap price.

Yes, the picture of the filter is correct. The filter you're talking about is the pick up filter for the fuel pump that every fuel pump has. The one I listed is a separate filter that is unique to this Subaru.

Where is the filter on the driver's side that you're talking about located?

Might as well put a new fuel filter in while you're in there...

https://parts.wildesubaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Fuel-Filter-Filter-Fuel-Pump/49249675/42072AJ070.html

From what I have read in this thread and a few others, if I go with the inline WB controller, I can install it in place of the downstream OEM O2 sensor and wire it to use that sensor's CANBUS plug. I can then use the ECU to log the downstream O2 sensor signal, which will actually be the WB signal, using a Tactrix OpenPort for my tuner. The downstream O2 sensor position is not ideal for the WB, but it has worked for several others on the forum.

 

Once the tune is complete I could remove the WB (keeping it safe for the next tune) and reinstall the downstream OEM O2 sensor so I can (hopefully) pass emissions without issue, my j-pipe/downpipe is catted.

 

Is this correct or am I misunderstanding what I have read?

 

EDIT: After losing a bit of sleep over this, I realize that those people using the downstream O2 sensor location for the WB must be running without a cat. I also read that the upstream OEM O2 sensor actually is a wideband sensor...the more I learn about this the more confused I get

I'm using the rear O2 sensor with a catted J pipe. I have the wideband wired to the gauge in the car and sent video to the tuner for my tune. That would be the easiest way to get the wideband info for the tuner and return the car to stock when you're done with the tune.

Dave @ Cryo said the O2 sensors in our cars aren't sensitive enough to log the changes. I guess the newer 15+WRX's already have the upgraded O2 sensor in place, but we need to upgrade ours in the 5th gen LGT's.

Maybe the throttle body is due for a cleaning...?

My RPM has a dip sometimes when it drops to idle. I have a throttle body gasket on the way and it will be pulling the throttle body for a good ole cleaning this upcoming week.

May not be fancy as you all, but I found v-limited front lips are back in stock on eBay after a flipping year so I bought one...anyone else in the market for one I'd snatch one up while you can...dunno how many more they'll make given the "popularity" of this chassis as a tuning platform...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Limited-Front-Bumper-Lip-Spoiler-PU-Fit-For-10-11-12-Subaru-Legacy-Sedan-4Dr-/321904698227?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

 

 

Edit: okay so I went fancy today. Ordered the lip, a new set of special appearance package headlights and a set of yellow fog lights. Front end Friday on a Thursday apparently...can't wait to get all this stuff in in the coming weeks and get it installed...

What headlights did you end up going with? When do the pics get posted?

You could always try and degrease the area and see if it gives you a better idea of where the leak is starting from.

If you are pulling the engine anyway, just pick up a rear main, they are not very expensive and easy to remove/install.

I finally got the car back together after replacing the passenger side headgasket that was leaking at the top where the oil crossover feed is. I drove it all last summer with the oil leak and the boost eventually sent some coolant into the oil at the end of the summer and the beast was done for the year.

I got it back together last week, I had the frickin passenger side exhaust cam off one tooth and got the P0017 code. Tore back into it and got it all cinched up this weekend. Now it's running like a champ again and I hope just to enjoy it for a while before having to do anymore work to it... maybe I can go a whole year without tearing into the engine for repairs. If I'm just tearing into it to add fast or fun bits, that fine. Those are just bad financial decisions and not bad luck.

I burned off the winter storage tank of ethanol free gas last night and got the first full tank of e85 for the year. It goes from a mildly fun boost to a real ripper with the e85. As long as I'm hitting the boost the smile stays on my face.

I'm gonna get it all cleaned up and take some good pics of the engine bay for my build thread and explain what I have going on with it. I have a little vacation coming up in a week and will have to get to it after that.

Nice to see the new wave of owners showing up here as well.

I had some chewed through wires on my A/C compressor wiring a couple years ago. That led to me finding out I had an infestation in my detached garage. I spent the summer trying to get rid of them. I tired a bunch of stuff, but the only thing that worked was to clean everything, close up all the ways a mouse/mole could get into the garage and take any possibility of food or shelter away. Turns out the rodents had created a few ways into the garage. I stuffed some steel wool in the holes and added some spray foam along with it.

I figure they started in the pile of wood I had behind the garage. Taking the wood away and fortifying the holes with steel wool/foam seems to have gotten rid of them for the last few years.

Non of the smelly things seem to last long enough to be effective on their own. The sprays and even the cheaper option of fabric softeners only last day or two. You really need to find the source of the little critters.

I now own this Legacy GT. Matt and his father helped deliver it to my house last evening.

You better watch out or all the sudden one day your going to be living in a 5th gen GT salvage yard.

I imagine you have to have the record for having the most 5th gen GT's so far...? I know you sold #2 already, but still nice work on keeping the Gen alive.

I'll be pulling the passenger side head out of mine tomorrow... not looking forward to all the fun.

In addition to the above you could use a mechanics stethoscope or long screwdriver to pinpoint where the sound is the loudest in the engine. Go to where you hear the noise the loudest in the engine bay and stick the tip of your scope or screwdriver on the metal of the block and heads and notice where the sound is the loudest.

How are you hearing the knock? Is it always there or only under load or a specific RPM range?

I lost a wrist pin in mine. It started with a small knock on start up and got worse from there. I nursed it till it just stopped running and then dove in deep with the rebuild.

I just replaced mine with the stock Subaru studs.

They make a tools to remove studs... all you need is enough stud sticking out to grab on to.

https://www.google.com/search?q=stud+removal+tool&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS749US749&oq=stud+removal+tool&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.3535j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I have had luck with the socket type, especially when the tool is new.

It's actually a fairly easy job compared to a lot of other fuel pump removals.

You just need to remove the rear seat cushion (push tabs in front of seat and lift up), pop a couple electrical connectors, remove a few bolts and take the fuel pump assembly out. Then you just need to separate the filter from the assembly by pushing a couple of tabs and pulling it apart.

I have to drop the 30 gallon fuel tank in my trucks at work to access the fuel pump. A lot more of a filthy and difficult job than my LGT.

I would say it's not necessary, but good insurance for those who worry. If you look in this link you will see how much garbage was in my fuel pump assembly when I switched my fuel pump out.

Post #261

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p18.html

Ahh shit, sorry to hear that! That really sucks!

The OG's are dropping like flies around here.

How many miles on this rebuild?

Here's a walk through for testing for boost leak on the 5th gen.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/easy-5th-gen-gt-boost-leak-test-255163.html?t=255163&highlight=test+boost+leak

Hmm, I do not have an air hammer or adequate air compressor to use air tools. I was going to try to use a centre punch and hammer on the threaded side to try and break-up some of the rust, I also got a MAP torch but I am hesitant to use it.

I guess I forget that everyone doesn't have an air compressor and air tools. They really change everything when working on your own stuff.

I'm a firm believer that if it ain't broke... if it's a mechanical part, obviously some stuff requires preventative maintenance.

I don't think the control arm will be much more difficult down the road. They are difficult enough the way it is. Unless you're hearing something or your bushings are torn I would leave it alone.

You can use that control arm money towards an air compressor and impact gun...

Good luck either way you go!

You need the ole Shake N Break tool. I used them to get ball joints out of any Subaru I work on... it's a bit of a life saver.

In the second post of this page... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p23.html

there's a couple links to them and a little explanation of how I use them.

I'm running a stage 2 block, E85, HTA71 turbo, STi cams, etc...

The car runs a bit more like a STi, where you need to run the RPM's up higher to get to the turbo/power band. My boost kicks in around 3300RPM and with the turbo mounted down low it produces a bit more torque. My car pulls like crazy and certainly slips the tires at WOT. When that torque and boost kicks in the smile starts up and won't go away till it breaks...

The old Bugeye I had produced the boost at a lower RPM and didn't have as much on the upper end. The LGT is a much more fun boost to feel, it really digs and goes.

I did a boost leak test today and you all were right on the intercooler to throttle body coupling. I started at the intake and couldn't hold pressure for any amount of time. Hopefully this will fix the problem with hesitation. Any recommendations on best place to find a replacement?

Just pull the rubber ends off of each side of the coupler and then just reuse the coupler. Should work great if the coupler isn't ripped. The useless rubber end pieces are your issue, so get rid of em.

What kind of grille is that?

It's the Grillcraft insert from Ebay.

I listed what I did in my thread below, around post #327.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p22.html

I agree with a boost leak.

Check the coupler pipe between the intercooler and intake. The coupler has two rubber covers, one on each end that many of us have found cracked/compromised and leaking under load.

There are other places to look, but I would start there. Unfortunately a boost leak most likely won't be visible to your eye...