edmundu

Rich,

 

Just grab the AccessEcu folder along with any subdirectories, it should be in the %system drive%\program files directory. Drop it onto your new laptop/pc, then install the HAsp key software, which is in AccessEcu\StreetTuner% directory. Then plug in the Hasp key, then fire it up. That's it:)

 

You can do this for as many pc's as you wish, because you need the Hasp key to run it, you will not exceed the single user license for it. I find this helpful when bored at my previous job, I could be editing maps, then trying them out on my commute home:lol: Not anymore though, my present position is kicking my tail....

Well, I needed to check my rear pads, and while I didn't remove the claiper's to get a completely accurate measurement, I did eyeball it, as well as measure the piston imprint on the backing plate.

 

It came out to about 35mm, close enough to 36mm, that I think the factory quotes on the STI BRembo's seem to be accurate.

 

After recently driving a stock LGT equipped car, and then immediately stepping into my car, it was evident that there was more braking action coming from the rear on my car. IT just hunched down and stopped much better.....

I just had a chance to measure the rear LGT caliper's on a bone stock '06 GT, and they indeed were 32mm!

I have had full F&R Brembo's for a while now, and LOVE them:)!!!

 

The stock brake pads are pure garbage. Period. Maybe the newer revisions changed the compound, but my early '05 had the crappy ones. I made the switch in stages:

 

Front Brembo only: With stock Sti pads & rotor's. Huge improvement over stock, excellent pedal feel, and modulation. This was even with the stock rubber lines to boot.

 

Front Brembo's w/2pc rotor's, Ferodo ds2500 pads and SS lines: Phenominal pedal response. The SS lines definitely stiffened up even the Brembo caliper's. The ds2500 pads are awesome, but pricey. Still had the stock rears, as I had trouble getting custom rear brackets fitted.

 

Front & Rear Brembo's w/Ferodo's & SS lines: Words cannot describe the braking response from just leaning a toe on the brake pedal. With the addition of the rear Brembo's, the car really came together. As has been recently uncovered, the stock rear Lgt caliper's have but a 32mm piston to the Brembo's 36mm. So adding the Brembo's on the rear does alot towards shifting the bias rearward, and helping to balance out the braking.

 

Brembo's F&R, 1pc rotor's, Axxis Ultimate's, SS lines: After chewing up the ds2500's, I looked for some less expensive pads, and these Axxis pads did the trick. They even have better bite than the Ferodo's. And cost 1/3 the price, so win win.

 

Also of note, I didn't perceive any real difference between the much more expensive 2pc rotor's vs. the plain jane 1pc rotor's. So I will be sticking with the 1pc, and just toss them when they are worn, since they are economical enough to do so...

 

I'm sure the Stoptech's, AP's, Alcon's or Brembo GT's would be even better. But, they cost a fair amount more, and like hp, the first 80% is pretty cheap, to get the last 20% is much much dearer.

bump for Edmunds comments.

 

Yes, I did crank my AVCS to 40 from 1.2 load & up across the board up til the 3.6k area, then it was stepped down to zero. It did create more trq about 200 rpm earlier than my previous AVCS which was a little above the Cobb values. On the dyno, it doesn't generate the same amount of load seen on the real pavement, and especially with these bigger turbo's.

 

On my way home that night, I started getting that dreaded driveline shudder in 4-5th gears, under heavy load in the 2.9-3.7k rpm band. I started dropping AVCS timing a little at a time, til it resolved it completely! I think my avcs peaks somewhere around 32, and tapers to 0. I rather lose a bit of trq, then to find out just how much trq that driveshaft carrier can handle;).

 

Like it has been said, there are some gains to be had, but it isn't all that much, and you needn't spend a ton of time on it. Perfect your fuel/timing/boost curves instead.

My current tune (as done by my tuner) has the stock AVCS table settings. I'm not about to try and get the most out of this table, but would like to just take the Cobb Stage 2 settings and apply them to my map. Is this a good idea seeing how I've got an upgraded turbo and other goodies or just plain stupid?

 

Dave

 

Really it depends on what the tuner did with the Primary Ign tables in the affected cells. Generally speaking, you need LESS timing if you add AVCS timing in. It is something you can add upon little by little to see when you need to make adjustments, or just leave it alone.....especially with anything smaller than a 20g turbo. Even then there aren't that many gains to be had.

But what if I don't want to run ANY realtime map? Just the Cobb base map.

 

Not possible.....

 

By using only a BM, you are effectively running the same map for RT. You see certain parameter's are stored in RAM, and the rest in ROM. In Cobb's lingo a Base Map is the ROM, and Real Time is RAM. So even if you pull power, and hard reset the ecu, the AP code will still load up a RT map. Whether it is the same as the base depends on who's map it is.

 

With Cobb's standard OTS maps, the Stg1 & 2 BM and RT are the same. So if you had been running BM stg2 prior to loading a economy map, then just switch to the Stg2 RT map. IT will be exactly the same as the BM, except you will not lose learned fuel trims, knock correction, etc...

 

Now this cannot be said for Etunes nor Protunes. Many tuner's choose not to store their intellectual property in it for other's to see. But other times they are forced to use an RT map because there isn't enough space for all the changes they wish to make. This is only a limitation of AP V1, as I understand it, V2 doesn't.

Hey Rich,

 

Here is what I turn off:

 

P0137 - Rear O2 Sensor Low Voltage

P0138 - Rear O2 Sensor High Voltage

P0139 - Rear O2 Sensor Slow Response

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

P0545 - EGT Sensor Circuit Low

P0546 - EGT Sensor Circuit High

P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temp Exhaust Gas)

P1312 - EGT Sensor Malfunction

P2096 - Post Catalyst Too Lean

P2097 - Post Catalyst Too Rich

 

And for my setup, I also have all the TGV codes off as well....

 

Actually, looking back, I'm not sure why the rear O2 is turned off? I think Cobb had this off, so I just left it...

Can I use the tactrix cable with ST for live tuning?

 

Dave at Cobb said I cannot.

 

While not officially endorsed, the Tactrix can indeed be used with ST for live tuning. I have been doing so for going on a year now:). And while you still need the AP cable for Base Map flashing, and marrying/unmarrying duties, the Tactrix blows it away in every other aspect. The Tactrix is both smaller, and fits way better in the socket than the Cobb supplied cable. Not to mention that the Tactrix is USB, so no need to hunt for serial adapter's on today's serial less laptops;). I have seen the AP V2 cable and while it is smaller than the V1, it still employs the same connector style, and cannot be used with the opensource datalogger's.

Most likely Tyler from TDC. He is running Jon's twinscroll gt30r setup and i think that is near where they are located. Edmunu was your car at WBM?

 

This was well north of Concord, NH. Where TDC is located. IT would be about a 1.5-2 hr drive from their shop location...

 

Yes, I was there, and the car was with me:).

Silver LGT, had 5 spoke wheels, and a TdcTuning sticker on fender. I think the town was Bartlett, NH. I was vacationing up there with the wife/kids & family. This was around 8am Saturday morning, at a Dunkin Donuts. Supposedly the only one around for miles. Seeing the TDC sticker has me believing you are on here:)

Add me too! I'm official as of this morning:)

Today, 7:55am on Rt.287 North around Montville....SWP LGT w/tints, and PA plates! I think it was VXCL?

Yes.

That may have been me, but i was driving around somerville around noonish

 

This one was parked on Mercer St., in front of an apartment complex...

I'm on it from 7:55am til about 8:25am. From exit 52 down til exit 17 in Somerville. So you are on it much earlier than I...

Who's SpecB w/SPT exhaust did I run into this morning on Rt287 south?

In Somerville today around 2:30pm, a GRP, lowered, and debadged LGT.

Exactly, you still need to move the HASP key though.

I have an easier solution. All you need to do is:

 

 

1. Copy the entire AccessEcu folder, and any subfolders onto the new pc/laptop.
   
2. Copy over your maps.
   
3. Then run the Hasp driver installer "HASPUserSetup.exe".
   
4. Plug in the HASP KEY.
   
5. Create Shortcut to "streetTUNERLauncher.exe" on desktop, program menu's, etc...
   
6. Open up ST, and enjoy:).
   

 

 

When you wish to switch back and forth between 2 pc's, just move the HASP key over, and that's it. I use this method all the time, between the desktop at home and the laptop, and also on the work pc. I am always only about 3ft away from ST:lol:

Yes.

do we have access to the coolant comp tables through some sort of update or patch? I'd really like to tune out the hickup I get on warm restart. When the car is stone cold it fires up perfectly. when it is hot it is fine too.

 

I get to it via Enginuity. These aren't available in ST, only to Protuner.

It is likely the coolant temp compensation table. You need to put a wideband on it, to verify, but I feel your bucking is from the AFR's being too lean. and as the engine warms up, then the afr's richen up, and you have a smoother response.

 

DO NOT attempt to use the stock AFR readout, IT IS DEAD WRONG in these situations. I found this out long ago, when I had Nismo's, and the stock 02 read the afr's as 14.7-14.8, but my LM1 put them at 16.6-17.1:eek: This was really evident on cold mornings, and in warmer weather it quickly went away, as the coolant temp/engine warmed up faster.

Funny you ask...our AccessTUNER Calibration & Tuning Guide for Subarus has recently been updated to v1.08 and it now includes more graphics, updated information on fuel injector table settings, and more tuning tips for DBW applications. This tuning guide goes over specific steps for tuning your Intake Calibration table. Please read through this document and let me know what you think.

 

rclark0032 was super fast on this one...thanks.

 

Take care,

Christian.

 

 

So when is Cobb going to update the ST software to allow us to adjust the tables needed for a full injector tune like FIBET, and Coolant Temp compensation/Cold Start? It is mentioned in the guide, but we cannot get to it. Asking a Protuner to do so, when we have no affiliation with one won't work, unless we pay them, which we shouldn't have to...

I see. Knowing the boost cut value would certainly help:lol:

 

just for my own clarification, does our ECU cut fuel and cue the wastegate when the boost limit is exceeded, or just cue the wastegate. the reason I ask is I'm confused by the logs. I can understand if the wastegate was overridden to drop boost and the setpoint was not moved (hence the turbo dynamics value) but I can't make sense of the AFRs. It looked like the AFR went a little leaner because of the drop in load. I would have expected a much bigger change if the injectors were turned off briefly (or is the O2 sensor slow enough to smooth out the reading?)

 

 

Oh the ECU does indeed cut fuel! If you have ever run into it, it is not subtle. It jars/bucks the car. Now, thanks to Christian, I know that the ECU doesn't spit out info to the log anywhere near as fast as it makes decisions for the engine. So many times you will not see it in the log, particularly if you have a lot of params.

 

I have never seen Tip In delta % of higher than 6-7%, yet the table does go to 31.3%, and if you don't have the right fueling adjustments, you can feel it, but not see it....