Justen1987

get the codes checked in all systems. abs/stability, trans, and engine. the dealer might only checkengine codes which may not indicate what the other modules say. might do that to educate yourself before you go to dealer. I don't know the dealer so I want to throw that out there

Are you running a old tune with you’re current setup? I listened to your audio and it has a chop/lack of vacuum that it shouldn’t with such a mild setup. As far as clutch slip goes I’d say driver error more likely then slipping. Drive it yourself and see how it feels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the fa20 wrx charge side is at a different angle as already mentioned. I haven't changed my charge pipe but from what I see as long as the flange for the turbo isn't fixed to the pipe itself it should be close enough to good enough. so AEM is a no go. but i would think grimmspeed or maybe nameless would work. please speak up if im wrong. im currently browsing and would like to know

can you explain how mounting your ebcs too firmly caused knock? isn't it just a duty cycled solenoid? I just got a 3 port but haven't hooked it up yet.

I would suggest double checking the shift linkage for the shift problem. maybe one of the cables popped off. as far as the noises go I have no idea

take off the timing cover and rotate the engine to top dead. if the marks don't line up rotate the engine once again to top dead. since the crank turns twice to one camshaft revolution it might not be lined up on the first time you turn the crank top dead. if its all lined up the next step would be to do a cylinder leakage test. most people tell you to remove valve covers and make sure the lobes are off the lifter and blah blah. I cheat though and set the pressure on the leakage tester low then just turn the engine till it seals the best. then just turn the pressure up some and listen for air in the throttle body(bad intake valves), tail pipe(bad exhaust valve), or through the oil cap. some there will probably normal, all engines have blow by. More then likely you have bad exhaust valves, it'll be considerably cheaper to fix the heads than to replace the engine and you'll be much happier with the end result

how do you get into autocross? as far as finding and competing in events. my sec gen is my beater but id like to try in my 5th gen

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do you know why you have low compression? seeing how 1 and 3 are same bank it might be as simple as jumped time

Are you going to replace all the valves or they going to cut them? I put gsc valves in mine. The intake valve looked quite different compared to stock. Undercut for better flow. Obviously I don’t have a flow bench and have now idea if it did anything for me but compared to the cost of new oe I thought it was a good route Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you doing a valve job too? if you're not reuse your intake cam you'll be less likely to have to adjust valve lash. save some time on reassembly. I only changed the exhaust springs on mine when I did the sti cam swap on mine, ive spun it many times to 6800rpm and I haven't heard or felt anything that would indicate valve float

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Do you have pictures compare the turbo flanges themselves? I was wondering if it would be possible to use a fa20 turbo for a while. I was thinking just chop the flanges off and weld it so the fa turbo flange would be on the ej manifold. Thanks for your research and write up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the cutter to fix a friends neon years before I got my Subaru. He paid for half of it. Lol. It just so happens the guides and valve diameter are close enough it worked perfectly. I due “plan” on going past stage two but there isn’t a solid plan or mainly budget yet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Classic euro car with japan power. I love it. Reminds me of this fiat I saw at the mecum auction this summer. Subaru powered of course. Just throwing that thought out there. Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The clutch has been difficult to get used to but I think it doesn’t help I haven’t done the dampener delete yet. Maybe I’ll do that tomorrow. It just wants to grab and with that floating engagement point it’s tricky, got to slip it quite a bit on take off. Race car stuff you know. I’m still stock turbo with Sti cams and tgv deletes, and the usual stage two bits. According to the brad barnhill virtual dyno it’s about 270whp. Don’t know how accurate that is but idc, gives me a rough idea of power gain. I went over kill on the clutch cause I had replaced the factory one, when the release fork snapped, with one from oriellys for maintenance/insurance. But as soon as I went stage 2 it was slipping when I snatched gears. So I already wasted money on one clutch, wasn’t gonna do that again. I could have lived with that but I burnt exhaust valves on cylinders 2 and 4. So I had the engine out anyways. Put all new gsc valves, cometic headgaskets, arp studs. Just cut the exhaust seats with a neway cutter and lapped the intake. Didn’t go to a machine shop. Lol. I’ll have to show you a picture of the old valves, I was impressed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll work on that. Lol. I mainly get on here to read. What wide band did you use? Thanks for sharing the photos of the driveshaft. Good to know dorman replaces that cv with a ujoint. Has to be stronger. Did you end up going with the south bend clutch? I work three blocks away from there. I had them machine my flywheel but I’m using a comp clutch 6 puck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you have to adjust the wastegate because you ported it?

I replaced my plugs about a month ago for maintance. Ive got 120k on it now. I did not have to lift the engine. the right bank is easier to service then the left after removing the air box. you will have to rotate the coil as you remove it to get it out so its kinda of a puzzle but not bad really. the most challenging part i thought was just getting the coils unplugged. took me about 35min to do all from above didnt need to lift the car. i am an ase certified tech with 12yrs experience so im used to working in tight areas. just saying might take you longer but theres no need to waste time and energy lifting the engine

Im new to the forums. Thank you fahr_side for this post. i have a 2011 legacy gt. i got the cobb accesport im running the stage 1 93 ots tune, gfb byass, and cut the mufflers off mainly for noise and the stock tips didnt fit the bumper right imo. i want to go stage 2. if i run the cobb stage 2 ots tune with a catless invidia pipe will i have a cel? i know a custom tune would be best but from what ive read here i should hold out for custom tune till i get an 18g bnr turbo and injectors/pump seeing how thats the route i want to take and my local tuner wants $500. this is my daily and not a race car. just want to get the most out of it for my money. i emailed cobb the same question but havent heard back. ive been using the search but havent found an answer. thanks in advance for any help