aki334

Probably the OP means this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO

 

No you must have premium or limited model.

 

Mine is basic so only comes with buckets.

 

Anyway whatever makes you happy. I know you are limited. You probably can't locate your country on the map and have never seen other civilization outside of your village judging by how well you know how to find this seats for your farm's shithouse. You had to drive 156 miles to the nearest McDonald's to get free WIFI to be able to post here. How you know about amazon online shopping confuses me.

Interesting. I wonder what you would have seen putting an oscilloscope on the alternator output. Could have been a failed or failing diode causing a wild ripple. That in turn could of course manifest it self as misfire on just any cylinder, not only #4.

 

 

Stranger things have happened.

 

 

I do not have scope, I am still looking for one (they are expensive). I did check diodes when alternator was cold never remembered to check when alternator gets hot. I did have clamp amp meter and amperage was jumping +/-3 Amps with same load at idle. Scope would show that much better. Checked for AC mV on battery posts with idle but of course DVOM is too slow to show any abnormal spikes.

Thanks for the information, would you be able to confirm it is the alternator by checking the voltage while the engine is running? Or was the voltage within a normal range (14.2-14.7V I think?) even with the bad alternator?

 

alternator was charging normally. This once happened to me on GM car. I had p300. Everything was normal, replaced sparkplugs, no vacuum leaks, replaced ignition coils, replaced injectors and just gave up. I drove the car with slight misfire for a long time. One day alternator failed it was not charging. I put in the new alternator (Duralest Gold from AZ) and engine worked so smooth I could not believe. Since then I learned alternators can cause ghost misfires that most technicians will overlook.

I recently went through servicing the brakes, front and rear. This is part of routine maintenance, but I was taking care of a some squealing in this case.

 

This isn't intended as a DIY, just meant for those who have done brakes and want to see what the rears look like on this car. Not going through how to lift and support the car, etc. The front is a typical front disc brake setup, so not getting into that. Pictures were taken after the job was done - didn't think of it.

 

A couple of things you'll want to know for the rears with the electronic parking brake. First, I STRONGLY recommend disconnecting the battery - it sucks and will reset some stuff (maintenance screen for example), but I wouldn't mess with that. FSM confirms this is necessary. Alternative is to have a Subaru Computer...yeah....

 

Next, you will want a 14mm for the caliper mounting brackets and a 7mm hex for the caliper slide pin bolts. There is a little rubber cover to pop off the caliper pin bolts to access them (flat head screwdriver).

 

Before removing the caliper, it may be worth removing the one bolt that holds the brake hose in place. There is limited movement of the caliper without taking off that bolt. I did it without freeing it up, but the FSM says to remove it. Also, you will want to disconnect the electronic parking brake harness on the bottom of the caliper (sorry I didn't get it pictured, but just a pinch/pull connector).

 

To compress the piston, you will not be able to just compress or use a dice-style tool. You will need a legit disc brake pad caliper service tool kit to rotate the piston back in. Mine is from Harbor Freight. If I remember correctly, it was the size 7 that was needed.

 

There is also the retention clip on the caliper. I just used a flat-head to remove and pliers to put them back on and gently hammered it back into place so it seated nicely. I took a picture there so you can see the orientation if needed.

 

I didn't replace pads or rotors. This is with about 25K miles on them.

 

Hope this helps the next person. Really a simple job considering the electronic parking brake. BMW's version of this is insane!

 

 

Thank you Sir for taking your time to do this for us, every information is valuable we need more post like this.

Hi all I am just posting my experience hope it will help somebody some day.

 

When I had engine shaking problem due to the alternator I was getting misfire on cylinder #4 small count every driving cycle but not enough to illuminate check engine light for P0304.

 

So if you have a good scanner that can read live cylinder misfires or scanner capable of reading mode 6 and if you see misfire on cylinder 4 and you checked sparkplugs, coils and vacuum leaks it could be your alternator causing this. I hope this will help somebody some day. Note this is on 2.5 l engine.

24 responses regarding oil change OMG. It is one bolt.

Do it yourself, if you fail the next time you will do it better it is the only way to learn or all your life you will depend on others to fix.

 

PM me if you need step by step directions.

 

Unfortunately this forum is all about what wheels someone put on.... even people hardly can change their own oil. If somebody offers some help they try to put him down with unnecessary comments.

 

Remember you bought your car, the car did not buy you... if you f up something it is not the end of the world. In life you can buy anything except mother. Everything else can be replaced.

so your boat is slowing, and the water is sloshing around you? you have to replace your magnets.

 

This video describes that problem pretty well:

 

LOL, if you watch carefully you will see that he shifted into "R" for racing

This makes no sense at all.

 

I do not want to be always a bad guy. Many things for you are hard to understand which is understandable. There is a lot of things I would tell you right now but I will be nice and keep it to myself. Oh remember your comment that the throttle plate on our Subaru can freeze at 90F outside with engine running at 212F LOL. Thus why you do not understand simple analogy with the bucket of water.

 

Anyway, guys that experience this, trust me, I had this problem. I replaced ATF II, cleaned oil pan and magnet.

 

To avoid this negative comments of people that never dropped the trans oil pan - PM me for more details.

Hi all,

 

If you have this the best way to describe is feeling like you are sitting on the bucket of water when stopping and the water is splashing under your seat and you feel that water movement then:

 

Your CVT transmission filter is clogged, your cvt pan needs to be cleaned, magnets cleaned and add additional magnets on the bottom of the cvt oil pan (on the outside) your will love your cvt again. I hope this will help somebody who is loosing hopes. Remember opening your cvt oil pan will void cvt warranty. But if you are like me and take actions no matter at what cost than try it.

that is gray connector b147 = rear washer motor 100%

 

connector b44 is for horn LH and that is right above the b147 connector

 

so leave it hanging

 

reference: WI-468 and WI-469 from OEM repair manual or pages 7318 and 7319 from pdf

 

I do not know if outbacks have rear wiper, so they are probably using same wiring for outbacks and legacies, just wild guess

 

Pm me for info where to send me 6 pack

Hi all, can you please check your crankshaft balancers at idle in park, do you notice any wobble?

 

mine has slight wobble you can tell by slight belt movement.

 

No accidents no one touched the balancer. Why would it wobble? I did not pay attention in the beginning, wonder if it was Friday engine assembly day in Japan.

 

No wobbling at first startup when rpm is higher than normal when at normal operating temperature.

 

Once the rpm goes down to 800-700 rpm you can see slight wobble.

fog lights, even if you do not have fog lights (base model) wiring is still there

 

ambient temperature sensor could be another possibility, maybe you can check the reading on your dash

Drain CVT oil, remove the cvt oil pan, clean pan and magnet, remove the filter and wash it from the side where the O ring is, then blow with compressed air from the same direction. Put new CVT F-II . Buy 7 quarts, you will need 6.5quarts with filter removal. Then you will come here and thank me

 

I had the same problem and did this myself. You will love your car again.

THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY ON CVT. But as you can see dealerships are either unable to repair it because they do not know what to do, or they are just playing dumb, and at the end we are stuck with bad performing vehicles.

 

Note: there are two filters in our TR 580 cvt, you do not need to buy new because the one in the oil pan is serviceable (washable). Do not buy the paper inline filter because you will need to disassemble trans to get to it.

 

 

So make sure the oil pan, magnet and filter are spotless.

If you need more details pm me.

This is one of the reasons I learned to do everything by myself on the car. Imagine how things get left loose on suspension and you think everything is nice and tight in a 90mph curve. How many bolts get stripped and you do not even know.

yes I was about to tell you the same, I just searched couple of pictures of the 2.5L engines online and some of them show the same.

I am trying to figure out the connection between the serpentine belt tensioner that Subaru replaced and your problem.

 

What I think they did with tensioner is they were trying to be cheap and only do 30% of the recommended TSB for alternator.

 

There is a TSB that suggests replacing alternator, tensioner and belt.

Search on Amazon you can find new alternator for $191 with tax and delivery.

 

Replace the belt also since it is very easy to do. If that does not fix you can return it to Amazon and get your money back. I only returned it because I was able to clean my old one and the one from Amazon was constantly at 14.33V but the car was not shaking any more.

 

I wish you best luck.

 

Please keep us posted.

I have a shaking issue while at a stop in reverse and drive. The shake is completely random. Sometimes it shakes consistently and sometimes no shake at all. I tested my voltage while in gear and load and got different readings.

No shaking in drive/reverse

14.23 to 14.25

While there is a shake in drive/reverse

It would start around 14.23 and drop to 14.10 at the lowest but is fluctuating between 14.10 to 14.25.

 

I would have to check more to see if it drops lower but it's crazy hot outside.

I'm wondering if a new alternator would be a fix for me. The dealer already replaced the tensioner, torque converter and updated the transmission software. The last time it was there for a week and they said the tranny fluid was low and that was causing the shake.

 

 

Subaru Legacy alternator is designed to work on and off.

 

We have confirmed that our alternators will charge when decelerating.

 

If you do not have any mayor loads ON it will be around 12.33 V

If you have some medium loads it will be around 13.45v

If you have high loads it will be around 14.22-14.35

 

so all this is normal and has nothing to do with shaking

 

alternator in my case had some surface rust on stator and dirty slip rings from brush dust that was glued on the slip rings.

 

What you can try for quick fix before going with alternator is cleaning maf/iat and map sensor with electro wash or maf cleaner. If you want to try new alternator I would suggest OEM alternator since aftermarket do not cycle on and off like OEM alternators and your voltage will always be 14.3V.

I was curious how difficult it would be to retro-fit the 3.6R back to power steering? The bracket for a power steering pump carried over from the 5th generation 3.6R.. So, by adding a pulley and power steering pump and lines and rack.... Do-able?

 

 

In my opinion it would be too much work for the results that you would achieve. Not to mention creating a lot of other problems down the road. You need better tires maybe some performance summer tires and you will like it. The more your tires wear the more you will like your steering feel.

if both sides are reading low in general that could be one of the 4 things:

 

1. low refrigerant

2. Expansion valve stuck closed

3. Orifice tube plugged

4. High side restriction

 

 

you can evacuate everything replace the components, and charge it with one regular 12 oz can from Walmart. That will bring you very close to 13 oz.

- Remember when you evacuate you will suck out the oil from the compressor also so make sure you put in the same amount of oil for ac compressors. Research which oil is used for your type of compressor.

 

Another thing what you can do is connect your multimeter to battery red to positive black to negative open the hood place the DVOM on the windshield so you can see the readings from inside the car. Start the engine and watch the voltage then turn the ac on while monitoring voltage. You should see some decrease in the voltage by at last 1 - 1.5 v then the voltage will raise up to around 14.25V If you do not see voltage drop at all that means you could have pressure related problem or electrical. Pressure related because the pressure switch will prevent ac compressor from turning if pressures are too low or high. And or electrical problems no voltage going to the clutch coil.

 

When you evacuate freon and when you start to charge it with the can. Ac will have to be turned ON on cold and fans blowing at high speed. But since it is out of freon Pressure switch will stop Ac compressor from running and you will not be able to charge. So you will have to connect compressor straight to battery voltage to start sucking from the can. If you are not sure about this leave it to pros.

Did u pull your neg on the battery before you removed the seats and reinstalled the seats before re connecting? This is a must anytime an airbag is removed.

 

He would know by now because he would see his air bags if anything went wrong. But the correct procedure is disconnect negative battery and wait at last 30min before doing anything with air bags. And always be careful in general any time you see yellow cable.

 

 

The seats look amazing. I on the contrary would love to buy limited with cloth seats just because of the durability reasons, less maintenance, don't have to worry to sit on hot leather in summer or cold seats in winter. And the major reason I like my cloth seats is because of the back sweating in summer. I hope they last you long time and you do not have the problems I listed.

 

 

 

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HPS intake, Nameless Axleback Exhaust, SSD FSB, Cusco RSB, 20mm rear sway bar, Voxx 18” rims, Infinity Kappa system,

More to come...

if you can give us little more history - did anyone play with your AC system before this problem occurred? Did you have front end collision recently or did you buy car used that had front end damage before?

 

- the higher the ambient temperature the higher your AC system pressure will be. If your fans were not working, by now your underhold would be smoking 100% in stop and go city traffic with temps above 80F. As previously suggested you will need SSM4 or good scanner that can read "B" codes. I would not suggest you going to any AC place that does not have the SSM4 or similar or at the end it could cost you more.

You can try using Subaru's diagnostic chart with (yes and no) questions to diagnose, and hopefully you will solve your problem before the step where they say connect SSM4.

 

I just checked - sorry - one of the first steps is to connect ssm4 and you basically have 38 things that can go wrong. there are codes 20-58 related to AC.

 

But I do agree if you can, check the simple things first that do not cost you much.

 

How is your ambient sensor reading comparing to the temperature forecast on your phone for your area? is it close by +/- 5F ?

 

What I would do if all the simple things do not work is pay dealer 1h diagnostic time ~$150 to connect ssm4 and tell me the code. Then come back here and tell us the code so we at last have the starting point.

2015 Legacy Limited, 2.5

 

Ironically, only when it is extremely hot it out and most necessary the AC goes intermittent. It will run for a few minutes then blow warm air, then cold again. It does this many times, but I've noticed on longer trips it eventually just runs consistently after 20 minutes or so.

 

I checked the refrigerant with one of the can-top gauges and it was in the lower end of the green range - added a bit to bring it to center of green range but made no difference.

 

My searching showed several forum posts about the compressor clutch sticking, but my clutch looks different than a traditional compressor clutch I'm used to seeing. I think this may be because this car has a variable displacement compressor? That's a bit beyond my knowledge, but read something to that effect on one of the posts.

 

I suspect the pressure sensor but am having real trouble finding information on that. I'll attach a diagram from subaru parts with the part I'd like info on - it's the only thing on that diagram without a part number. Diagram from this page: https://parts.subaru.com/Subaru_2015_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Limited/Heating-and-Air-Conditioning.html

 

Any information on testing this sensor would be helpful. I found a service manual online for a car that should be close (17 outback) and it said that sensor should read 0.5-4.9V when the ignition is on. Leads me to think that is an analog transducer but not sure if I can test that with the connector disconnected.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Hi, you will need a good scanner that can read body control module codes that start with "B" good luck.

So basically you have stored codes in the BCM but check engine light will not illuminate since it is not related to emissions and will not be stored in PCM to give you code that start with "P"

 

Keep us informed!

 

thanks - al

Thanks for following up.

 

Slip-ring contamination is unusual.

 

Please explain. Sounds like that could abrade the thin insulation on the stator coils.

 

 

Yes slip ring somehow had some black dust accumulated and stuck to it.

 

I have cleaned the stator with high grit sand paper (400-500 grit ) from inside it had some surface rust. The stator inside the center is iron and nothing can be damaged. If you open any of the newer alternators you will see what I am talking about. The rotator looked much better. Electro wash spray is is really important to get all the dirt and old dust out especially from the area where brushes are.

Thank you all who posted voltage results.

 

- I just wanted to update you all

- After installing new aftermarket alternator idle is as smooth as it can be

- so I had the original alternator and some extra time and decided to take it apart

- I have cleaned the internals with electro wash and noticed that the two copper rings that brushes ride on were little dirty from brush dust that was stuck to copper rings.

-after reassembling and testing the original alternator works like new. Idle is nice and smooth. Since the old one is working now I can return the new one and save me some money.

 

So in short - clean the two copper rings that brushes ride on - you will have to insert paper clip from the back of alternator and push brushes in with "L" shaped 0-ring removal tool to hold brushes inside or you will not be able to reassemble alternator. Clean the heavy windings inside with high greet sand paper then electro wash. Clean the the brushes with electro wash. You will need 17mm Allen socket with impact to remove the pulley. Before you disassemble anything spin the pulley by hand to get the feel of how it should sound. You should not hear any scraping after reassembly.

This job is not hard but also is not for everyone, you have to be clean and patient. Mark one line across the alternator halves so you know how to reassemble everything in original location.

 

In the future if you need new alternator then get the original or good used one or if you are good try cleaning like I did. Aftermarket alternators do not cycle on and off like our original ones. They are constantly at 14.25V which can cause some MPG loss.