Neal Cassady

Have not installed them on the car with fluid running to them to test feel, however based on calculations for pedal torque, travel and BMC size, I expect the following (if you were to control for lines/fluid/pad type):

OEM pedal travel is pretty long stock, so the WRX 1" or STI 1 1/16" mc are both a good upgrade with stock brakes. It's not required for the 17Z calipers, but definitely a worthwhile change, especially with a STI booster.

Using the 17Z calipers & LGT rear sliding calipers, there is only about a 5% increase in pad area. Using the 17Z calipers and STI rear brembos, reduces this to about 1% (STI rear brembo has a smaller piston area), but shifts the bias forward due to increased front torque (73.9% to 75% front, OEM is 72.2%). This could be balanced by having a more aggressive rear pad, however with how nose heavy our cars are, its likely a good thing, or at least has minimal impact for 99% of drivers.

The pedal travel will be about 5% longer with the 17Z calipers and OEM LGT master cylinder (15/16"). The STI master reduces travel by about 18% with the 17Z calipers, compared to stock MC/brakes.

As for banjos, normally I would caution against them as there is nothing to prevent the line from rotating and loosening the banjo (Audi/VW people have leaking issues when using banjo lines instead of male flare fittings).

However I took a look at my test set up, and a simple p-clamp to the upper caliper bolt could remove this risk. The OEM LGT M10x1.0 banjo bolt fits the 17Z caliper, so this could be a cheap, simple solution that avoids custom lines. Photos show an LGT OEM line and OEM banjo bolt attached to the caliper.

Sorry for the delay! Not doing deposits, once I'm happy with everything they'll be listed for sale.

Would people want the kit to include brake lines? Or would you prefer to DIY them with AN fittings or have a local hydraulic shop make them? A pair of stainless conversion lines would add about $70 to the kit.

Technically you could use the LGT banjo bolt and fitting, but the Brembo 17Z caliper is meant to take a bubble flare, so the conversion line would match the Subaru chassis hardline and have the proper bubble flare for the caliper, and LGT strut mount tab.

Making progress, other priorities unfortunately mean that progress is slow.

Did a test fit of the kit on the car (instead of just a loose hub), to make sure the strut, steering and LCA had no issues. Found some small changes to simplify the kit (2 fewer pieces) and also make installation less...intricate.

The kit is designed to install in 2 ways:

1) without an offset bushing in the caliper (less work)

2) with the offset bushing (better pad position)

The third photo shows the slight angle of the pad (bottom corner is closer to the centre of the rotor) WITHOUT the offset bushing (method 1). The pad does not overhang the rotor, it is just not quite concentric.

Happily, all other components clear. 17x8 +35 Regamasters clear with ~10 mm spacer.

The caliper takes an M10x1.0 male thread with a euro flare (bubble or convex DIN is the proper name I believe).

Thanks everyone for following along, hopefully will have actual parts to share soon.

Test fit of the 17Z caliper on car, instead of just a loose hub. Worked out installation method a bit more and a couple tweaks to simplify the kit.

I have a BG wagon that I retrofitted some 05/06 Gt seats in. I’m trying to get the heated seat portion to work. The BG uses a 2 wire system (High/low) where the 05 has 4 settings. Based on that chart I just need to provide voltage for the high and low setting and leave the other two wires untouched? Or does the 05 have a separate module that controls the heated seat function?

I believe the 05 switch operates differently, I tried to use it with the Evo X seats (which are a hi/lo) and it was a no-go, so I imagine the reverse is true (05 seats won't work with BG switch).

The chart I provided used the Evo X switch and just piggy backed off of the old wiring. I think 05 4 position switch varies resistance, whereas the hi-lo switch just sends power to the appropriate circuit.

Threw on mAdrig's CF extended hood scoop. Installed the front bumper guard (silver piece; 57734). Topped of PS fluid. Replaced missing clips in the engine bay.

New clips, such a good feeling. Just ordered new intake duct clips (among a few other bits), $7.72 each here in the Great White North.

Not yet.

OEM pedal travel is pretty long stock, so the WRX 1" or STI mc are both a good upgrade with stock brakes. It's not required for the 17Z calipers, but definitely a worthwhile change, especially with a STI booster.

The pedal travel will be about 5% longer with the 17Z calipers and OEM LGT master cylinder (15/16"). The STI master reduces travel by about 18% with the 17Z calipers, compared to stock MC/brakes.

Unfortunately no Wagonfest for any of us Canadian wagons.

Next year hopefully!

A-pillars done, only 3 more pillars to go. At least these are the ones I see most of the time.

Adding to a steadily growing parts hoard. This board helps me not feel alone in my plight.

VF52 in surprisingly decent shape (hairline wastegate crack, zero shaft play), earmarked for future rebuild.

I wish! Waiting on the first batch of parts to fully install on the car.

The test fit was done with 3D printed parts on a Legacy GT upright, using the same models that will be used for manufacturing. But there are always material/process variations so hopefully it all goes smooth once I get parts.