Warlock

Yeah the photographer allows sharing of the photos but the stipulation is you dont crop out or remove the watermarks. I think that's a fair tradoff for free.

Sorry i dissappeared for a while off the forum. Yes it is a track car. Just got back from a Palmer motorsports track day in Palmer Massachusetts.

Nice setup. Love seeing other Silver Spec Bs still alive out there and looking good.

My 2008 Spec B

Hi All, Just wanted to share a couple of photos from my last track day at Palmer Motorsports in Palmer Massachusetts.

Cant tell you who the other spec B in our area is but I like your idea of a meetup. I would be down to meet with all the Legacy peeps in the area, like an exclusive cars and coffee lol. Again, maybe we are just creepy to want to meet up now adays....

Yup, that was me as well. Skipped timing while on the highway, car wouldnt start after that. Then shortly after that, the oil pump siezed and spun a rod bearing. She has a new motor in her now (again.....). My Legacy is officially off the road until spring now though. Ill be driving my Honda around until then.

Ha! Yes, too funny. I looked at your tow truck as you drove by and I thought I wonder if that is the guy from the forum.

No, haven't done an sti master cylinder swap, wasn't aware that was a thing haha. Why would I delete the brake booster?

After installation thoughts: OH MY GOD does this thing stop on a dime! I was nto ready for it the first time i pressed the brakes. Superior to even the Brembos I had on my previous legacy (sti swap) in my opinion. These bite so much harder! Haven't even installed the master cylinder brace yet, which will improve the feel of the pedal even more.

Part Numbers: Front: 140-12875-D Rear: 140-12878-D Install time: 6 hours with 2 guys and a lift (3 hours of that was figuring out the spacing and clearance, so follow this to get a good starting point) Remove all the brake dust shields on all rotors. I simply cut mine off. If you dont, the rotor WILL rub on them as they are too large. When installing the front, use the black spacers and about 5 washers (thats what worked for me) to gain clearance from the caliper to the rotor, and about 4 washers to space the bracket from the knuckle. For the rears, I did not need any spacers, but you will likely need to bend the factory brake line slightly to make it easier for the new brake lines to reach. Took about 30 seconds to do, just dont kink them.

Now that I have a little time, i will give more detail: First some photos of fitment:

Incase anyone else is looking to do this, the Wilwood brake it fits VERY good. 2008+ WRX wilwood kit with the 2002-2005 WRX rear brakes, no major modifications needed, just needed to bend the rear brake lines a little for a better angle.

October 11th (Sunday after next). You need to buy tickets in advance though from their website as I am told they only allow only so many people in total at the track that day. I will have my Spec B there entering in (most likely) bracket racing.

Springfield is a bit of a hike from my area but maybe we all will run into each other some time. Is anyone going to Import Faceoff at NE Dragway coming up soon?

The only place i see the stock ECU using EGT in its calculations is in Fueling - CL/OL Transition under CL Delay Max (EGT). which only set a max on the CL/OL delay which you already switched to 0. You should be good to go there, I wouldn't imagine you need to put a resister in. You can 0 this out too for piece of mind.

Hi All, Brakes are something I am not sure keen on. I just ordered a set of front Wilwood big brakes (140-12875-D) which, according to Rally Sport Direct, should fit the Legacy GT. I will know once they ship I suppose. I want a matching set for the rear. The only part I find listed fits the 2002-2005 WRX. Is this compatible with the legacy rear hubs/spindle, ect? Thanks all!

So I reviewed your first log, and its under WOT durring the entire log, So its going to be in open loop fueling. You AFRs are significantly lean with full load on the engine and dont start to get to where they should be until around 4700 rpms, after which point your AFR is reasonable and there also removes the studder from the RPMs seeming to climb smoothly after that. I recommend checking your CL to OL delay (at least for tuning purposes, I set this to 0 to rule out CL/OL interpolation which can cause this lean spike. Personally, I leave it set to 0 but each person has their own style). Next, if you have the CL/OL delay disabled and it is still running lean, you need to look into your MAF scaling on everything from 2.5-4v and add more fuel here. My first instinct is the CL/OL delay, start there.

So just as an update, I ran into several issues with this build. First, i installed the cam caps wrong and tightened them too much, constantly had timing over advanced errors AND oil leaking into timing case. After fixing that issue and doing timing all over again, my timing tensioner bolt snapped and I hopped timing while driving on the highway..... AMAZINGLY NO DAMAGE!! So, new timing belt kit and shes back up and running...... and after about 3500 miles or so, the brand new oil pump seized while I was on the highway and very quickly spun a bearing.... ugh, oh well, cant cry over spilled milk. So, it sat for about 3 months and them I got back at it. Wanted to save time and just went out and bought an IAG closed dock short block and got about to doing some other upgrades while I was in there. I got the IAG oil pickup and windage tray addon along with a killer b oil pan. I feel better knowing the pan is better baffled and has more capacity than stock. Brand new ARP stud kit. New clutch kit while I was at it too. IAG unequal length headers heat wrapped. Added a Perrin oil cooler into the mix as well (I plan to start road coursing the car next season, not so much drag racing). Got a Optima yellow top battery and relocated the battery to the trunk directly behind the rear seat. New slim radiator fan kit from mishimoto with hoses and such. I had an issue where the motor was rocking last time and occasionally the alternator would hit the upper radiator hose, so this time I did full torque solution mounts along with tranny mount. So we drop all this in, and we discover an oil leak from the rear main seal, my fault..... ugh, motor comes back out. Oil leak fixed, also found a coolant leak from the hose that goes to the throttle body so replaced that. Also got an RCM high grip timing tensioner this time, I dont want any more headaches at 8k rpm. On the outside, i finally mounted my new wheels with Nitto NT05 tires (8.5 inch wide by 18 wheel) and dialed in the Raceland coilover kit. Got rid of the factory chrome front grill and replaced it with a JDM front grill (i always though calling something JDM was for street cred, but I actually waited like 4 weeks for this thing to clear customs from Japan.....so yeah, JDM?). My buddy was able to get the grill to mash up with a USDM bumper which was a headache. So, anyway, I will try to get some pics up in the next few days. Upcoming mods: Grimmspeed master cylinder brace Wilwood front brakes (ordered, waiting for delivery) Whiteline full suspension kit (ordered, vendor says whiteline wont ship for a while...) Oh, also forgot, running on wastegate pressure on the FP red, aka entire wastegate map is 0 with a max of 0, and I am just about maxing out my MAF sensor. So I can custom rigging up a 3.5" MAF housing and hopefully that will give me some room to start turning the turbo up. I really, really, really dont want to go speed density as I like to tune this myself on the street, not on a dyno.

Haha well maybe now that my car is going to be running soon and it will be back up in the area you may see it around. I havent been to car meets in years, maybe there will be some up in our area soon. All of us can meet up some time. Right now my car is down at my buddys shop in Westport completing another motor swap (last motor had 2200 miles on it and the oil pump failed :/.) So now I got 2 built motors, one in the car and 1 on the stand with a rod knock.

Haha yeah i have NEVER seen an inspection go that far here in MA (with exception of the state inspectors when your car gets red flagged, THEY tear through the car.) Do not ever get red flagged lol, you might as well consider the car a track only car once that happens.

Ha, I know A1. I work at the town hall / Police / fire department for the town of Bridgewater. I am currently in the process of closing on a house over on Flagg st. My daily driver is a dark grey honda clarity, if you drive by town hall and see it plugged in to the chargers over on the bedford st parking lot, thats me haha.

So a quick look over of you log..... I noticed you AFR correction is rather large in multiple areas. This either indicates an improperly scaled MAF or wrong injector data. Although I dont think that is the ultimate problem here. What was very weird is is as your car began to lose RPM and lead into the stall, it rapidly shut its throttle angle from 8% where it was happy to 4% and below (as low as 1% open, the car certainly cant idle at this point). This would cause the decrease in RPM leading to a stall condition. Check your drive by wire tables and make sure they are configured properly would be my guess.

So as a general rule in MA: 15 years old (current calendar year - model year) then you dont need emmissions test, just saftey The test is performed via ODBII anyway The car cannot VISUALLY have any issues though (AKA if the inspector happens to look under your car and notice NO cat, then it can still fail, or if the car is visibly smoking, it can still fail) A lot of passing saftey comes down to the inspector as well. Some inspectors will fail for being lowered, after market exhaust, or visual mods that can impede saftey. These do not fall under "emissions" and actual fall under either saftey or general law which there is not time limit on.