shinjyo

Driven with the new clutch and flywheel for almost a year now, around 6000 miles. It was great, weight is normal to me, not too hard not too soft. The clutch grab and engage great. Perfect for daily drive and sit in LA traffic for an hour or two. But if you have more power and want to do frequent tracks, I suggest you go something stiffer.

Latest Condition.

Do you know what possibility the reason that caused a burnt valve?

Before searching more, why not just find a low mileage EJ255 engine, rebuilt and put it back in? Why do you need to replace the engine?

The picture makes it look clean but my clear bra (was installed by previous owner) is in a very bad shape with lots of scratches. I am planning to remove it when I get the JDM front end going. I have been watching videos on how to remove it. The only thing I know is they won't come off easily in one piece.

Here is how the car sit now with STI Enkei plus pink springs and stock Bilstein Spec B shocks.

Actually, I am kinda old school when it comes to radio/head unit. I like round knob and buttons as long as the letters are red.

I believe it's about 1 inch drop. You might compare my current height with a stock spec B photo.

Chapter 14: STI Pink Springs When I got the car, it came with Tein S springs. Some ppl like it some don’t. It sits lower than what I want. So I decided to swap it to something else like OEM. But OEM springs sit higher than what I want. After many nights of reading, I decided to get the STI pink springs. There is a thread discussed this topic thoroughly. Found the part number and bought it from japanparts.com. I wanted to save money so I waited about two months while they were shipped via ship. The installation is pretty straight forward. Just like most other springs swap. The first difficult part was to remove the strut shaft from the strut housing. I read many ppl has problem and I was doing it with fingers cross. PB Blaster + larger size Philip screw driver turned the bottom nut easy. After removed, I figured my bump stop is in a bad shape. Luckily, I called Bilstein USA (San Diego), they were able to ship me a replacement. The part number is listed below. After that, removing the rear strut was a pain since the bottom strut bolt doesn’t come over as it should. I figured the strut bolt was seized inside the bushing and the metal ring. I had no other choices but to order a pair of replacement. Expansion rear struts but not as expensive as front. Assemble every was not hard, the only thing was the top nut can’t be torqued since the strut shaft hex slot will strip. All I did is to hand tightened it much as I can. Install the rear strut is kinda like an art: two cross jacks plus a hammer makes the job easy as breeze. The only reminder is the rear strut bolt/nut torque is 118 lb/ft instead of 46 lb/ft listed on the. To torque the rear strut, it requires extension since the rear brake is kinda in the way, I used two extensions in order to get the torque wrench outside the wheel well. To hold the bolt inside to prevent it from turning while you are torqueing the nut, I used a cross jack to support a wrench and holding the bolt. You can see the picture below. I have driven about 300 miles now. The STI pink spring is an excellent match to my stock Bilstein shocks with great damping, no harsh ride, still provide tight turning with minimal side rolling. I love the set up. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/best-sti-pink-springs-spec-b-103600.html?t=103600&highlight=Pink+spring+part+number STI Front Pink Spring ST2033021010 STI Rear Pink Spring ST2038021010 Bilstein Spec B Stock Bump Stop E4-B36-556A Stock Spec B Rear Strut 20365AG262 Removing strut in progress Removing strut in progress Broken bump stop Seized bolt inside the bushing and metal ring Assembling Love to hold and stare at this pink baby. use cross jack to support the bolt inside when torquing the nut. Use two cross jack to line up the bolt hole.

Chapter 13: Steering Wheel This one is probably one of the best mod as the stock steering wheel is in a really bad shape when I got the car. The pad material seems to glue on to the steering. Overtime, it’s tearing apart and leave a gap in between (you can see the steering wheel condition in my previous post). I was originally planning to buy the cloth material, wrap and stitch it on myself. So, I contacted redline leather and they said my wheel is kinda a special case . Stitching new material on top will not work since there is a gap and groove in it. So they ended up bought the same wheel off ebay, sent the wheel to their fabricator, added some resin to fill the gap and groove to make it smooth, and stitched on the new material for me at a discount price since I waited more than 6 months on this. I went with alcantara with red stitch lines and red racing strip. Looks great and feels so good! One note is Alcantara tends to attract dust and gets dirty easier than OEM leather. Swapping the airbag was a little scary but it was easier than I thought. 15 mins of work, new steering new on! New vs old Completed with the nexus project. The gauge reading of boost and temp is extremely useful.

Chapter 12: Nexus 7 and JDM Bezel There is another thread that cover this topic extensively. So I won’t cover the technical part of it. My goal was just to use the Nexus 7 as my boost gauge and map, but not for music, amp etc. Modifying the bezel is kind a process of try and fit. The only thing I did extra was to create a frame to offset the screen further into bezel so that it’s provide a little more shade under the sun. PM me for the background if like it. The bluetooth OBD reader is PLX Devices Kiwi 2 which gives very fast data communication and low power usage. I think my tablet drops about 7% battery over the night. I also made a start up animation as gif but I did not use it for more smooth operation. The torque app background was from a fellow member (FunkyDragon). Thanks for his kindness for sharing his work. the legacy gt animation

Chapter 11: Headlight Retrofit and LED Running Light I am not very good at electrical. Every time I touch electrical, I mess something up. But I always want black housing headlights. Lightwerkz has the complete retrofit kit for 05-09 legacy which is a direct replacement. Everything is just screw on and unscrew, very straight forward and nothing really special. The parts and all accessories were from Lightwerkz and Diode Dynamics. Honestly, I think they have the best quality product out there and they stand behind their products. If you are into headlight/bulb modification, I suggest you look into their website. Regarding the removal of the headlight front lens, attached is the video instruction from Lightwerkz and they have many other videos regarding the basic retrofit work. and Begin removing things Removed lens A quick note here. It would be better to tape and cover the areas that you don’t want to paint if you want to retain some silver reflector area such as side signal. Since if you paint the whole thing black, the side signal will not reflect light anymore and not bright enough to alert other drivers. But here, I ran into another problem that since they are chrome plated coating, it’s hard to paint over them and I also worry the job will be done poorly. Therefore, I stripped the chrome coating with Kitchen product “Easy-Off” oven cleaner at the end. Spray on it and let it sits for 10 mins, wash the chrome off easy. I didn’t want to whole housing black, so I looked into and bought a silver paint to cover the reflector area of the side signal. Looks ok but not great. After lots of tapes and hours of being patient, here is the finished housing. The LED running light was a trial project for me. I have seen other owners did several different layouts and I decided to get a ring (100mm) around the lens and a strip (6 inch) inside the side signal slot. Attached below is the link of the products. https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/led-lighting/led-halos-and-strips/led-halos/hd-halo.html https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/led-lighting/led-halos-and-strips/led-strips/hd-switchback-halo.html They require drilling small holes and electric wires to hold them in place. They are not really bendable. I was looking into cover the portion of the halo up to make it more like a U shape, that didn’t work because the halo is covered with a layer of Teflon style material that can’t be covered by painting or wrapping. Luckily, Lightwerkz told me the halo ring can be cut up to 25% of the total ring. So I used a Dremel and cut to the shape that I want. Both halo and strip mounted Test light After wiring, assemble the light back Before and after compare Cleaned and polished the lens, still not very clear. Both lights back on A quick night shot Tried to fix the front badge a the same time, wonder how it gets damaged I used easy-on again to strip the silver star paint and spray some silver paint back on. Finished product Also did plastidip the wheels for darker looking. Not very good. This is how it sits after the headlight work DIY project always look good when you stand 50 feet away.

Chapter 10: Clutch Replacement and Tuning As I thought everything is great again, I was extremely excited to install the Cobb intake and loaded up my tuner’s preliminary map for tuning. The first time when you hear that “WHOOSH!!!!” It’s like one of the most beautiful sound in the world! Who that heck creates this sound that makes you so enjoyable!!! Anyway, when I was getting too excited and ready to perform a 4th gear WOT pull for my tuner, the gear and engine was like “whinning” noisy at 4000 rpm. What is it? Yes! The Damn clutch wears out……….At this point, I can tell you if I didn’t go with the path of trying to get the Cobb intake to work, I could just drive the car under power car at 9psi. I doubt my decision for a moment asking what did I do to get myself into all these troubles. I understand all these things have to be replace sooner or later, but continue to put money into a pit may not be a wise choice either. Anyway, I bite the bullet again and decided to fix it. Again, nothing fancy but everything OEM. The Spec B clutch/flywheel/Throwout Bearing share same part as STI. Here, I am not capable of replacing the clutch or separating the engine from the transmission. So, I paid my friend’s shop to replace it. I also have him replaced the rear cam seal, a very common practice to replace it at the time you do the clutch. Bought everything from a place called Flatirons Tuning (cheapest price at that time) 12310AA410 Flywheels FJK1000 OEM Clutch 800610740 Flywheel bolts Rearseal-Kit includes 806786040 - Rear Main Seal 11831AA210 - Rear Access Panel 800406140 (x5) - Access Panel Screws 800406150 - Access Panel Locking Screw 806931070 - Driver's Side O-Ring Got the car back after a week, drove 500 miles easy to break in the clutch. I was ready to do the tuning again. Torqued Performance did the e-tuning for me. I used the AP2 access port from COBB, log all the parameters that the tuner asked. All I have was a safe mapping with targeted 17 psi boost. E-tuning is not hard but you have to find the right place to run the log such as drag race track etc. I did total 10 log runs for 4th gear WOT plus some 15 mins normal driving and finished the turning. Now the car feels great, sounds great, and drives great!!!

Chapter 9: Boosting problem As I thought everything is all good to go, I was ready to put it back on road and started the tuning after five hundred miles of easy break in after the tm/wp work. Then, I hit with a new issue which is my boost pressure is only at 9 psi max no matter what I do. I went thought the auto system diagnostic which all the mechanical valves seem to work fine. Many ppl said I have boost leak but the peak boost seems consistent at 9psi. I read countless post for weak boost and all sort of things and finally came across this thing called “restrictor pill”. I pull my tubing off from the turbo and Bingo!!! No restrictor pill!!! Luckily, ordering the correct tubing (P/N 14447AA150) will comes with the correct sized pill inside from subaru(another good thing to stick with OEM turbo as I am tired of hunting things). I have attached the picture that are related to this problem. The replacement work takes less than 5 mins but the only thing I want to remind you is the “T” of the tubing is another cheap material and easy to break, so don’t use too much force or you will have to pay another 3x dollar for this thing (someone sell a metal one on here I think). After replacement, the car is finally doing ~13 psi which is what the stock turbo supposed to make. I am pretty happy about it at this moment because I can finally see the car closer to stock performance. Found this image on NASIOC to get the overall idea This is the image that saved my life The actual tube and the plastic tee in the middle was broken when I was trying to remove it...have to order this part from subaru.

Chapter 8: TB/WP/Radiator/Spark Plug Before I go into this chapter, I started to mess up myself by buying the Cobb Intake and Cobb Accessport. I got the Cobb intake with SF box brand new at a discounted price from a fellow member which he decided to go with a different route (now I believe I know why he decided to go with a different route, may be he saw the nightmare that’s coming which I didn’t). I got the AP Ver2 from ebay after a bidding war but still a great price. With engine still being stock, I decided to connect the AP and see what is reading from the car. The night before Christmas eve, I made a couple accelerations and then went home afterward. Then, the nightmare began…… On the day of Christmas Eve while I was on the way to work but waiting at a traffic light, smoke came out of the hood suddenly. That moment was like:” HOLY SMOKE!!! ”. Popped the hood and saw signs of coolant blasted out from the radiator. Drove the Spec B home and decided to order parts. Here is a part list that I ordered, I may have missed one or two items which I will double check later. 10991AA001 seal ring 45161AG01A Radiator Hose 809218370 V-belt 809214500 V-belt 13028AA240 Timing belt 13073AA142 IDL 13085AA080 IDLER CP BEL 13073AA230 IDLER CP BEL 13033AA042 Adjuster AY 15010AA300 Oil Pump AY 806733030 Oil seal 45161AG00B radiator hose 21210AA030 termostat 2111AA051 gasket water 21111AA240 water pump 22401AA670 spark plug 45111AG09A radiator assem 14865AA020 2nd air pump duct Luckily, there are many videos on youtube that shows you how to replace TB/WP. I had worked on SOHC EJ engine but this was the first time I work on DOHC EJ engine. Please note that I have a manual tranny which my work may not be applicable to you if you have automatic. The follow is a general procedure with some notes that I would recommend. Reference Video: I pretty much follow his procedure and my manual (for all torque requirement) to finish the work. (His work has five parts and first part went thru most of the tools that you will need to finish the work) 1. Put your car on the jack, I only did the front 2. Remove all plastic covers up and down get ready. 3. Open the drain plug to drain all the coolant. 4. Disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the radiator. 5. Loosen the accessory belt tensioner and remove the two belts. 6. Break Loose the crank bolt (all I did was having another person to put the foot on the brake and shift to 1st gear while I am loosening the bolt, it wasn’t too hard but you need a little more force than loosing the wheel nut) 7. Remove crank bolt and remove the front plastic cover. 8. This is the most important step is to put the crank bolt back up and rotate the TB back to top deck center (TDC). I won’t explain further more about this as many places explained why you need to move it to the TDC . You must make sure you are at top deck center before you process to remove everything. It’s a good idea to take pictures and double check the markings on the pulley to make sure it’s TDC. 9. Now, many people used different methods to hold the cam gear together before loosening the belt because once you loosen it, the valve gear will jump. If you see the video I attached, he didn’t even have anything to hold the gears when he loosen the belt. I spent hours to look for info. Here is a picture showing what I did because I don’t have time (plus it’s holiday) to get the cam lock tool. My suggestion is the cam lock tool does help to make your life easier especially if your wife can’t help you with it. So, I suggest you plan ahead and buy this tool if money is not an issue. If you are like me, I did it without the tool. My cam gear moved anyway when I was putting things back on, you should be fine as long as you are at TDC before you remove everything. Do more research and read more information before you feel comfortable to proceed. I am not responsible for anything that damages your car. 10. Follow the video to ensure you putting the belt on correctly. But you need to be a little slow on moving the driverside cam gear in position while putting the belt on. It’s going to be much easier with a pair of second hands. I did everything myself just like the video shown. 11. Replacing water pump (WP) is very straight forward. Just practice how to put a good bead of gasket sealant on it. I replace the thermostat at the same time. Don’t forget to order the oring on the water pump and thermostat gasket. 12. Torque and re Torque and check everything before putting everything back. 13. Putting the accessory belt on was a pain at the beginning. I don’t even remember how I was able slip it on without too much force. All I remember was stretching the belt with my fingers and it just went on. 14. Add coolant and don’t forget to burp the air out from the coolant. 15. Then I took the chance to replace the spark plug. I thought since I was in there and what the heck, let’s just replace it. The access is extremely limited and unless you have a small hand, I used a lot of feel and imagination while I was torqueing things back on. Here you must put the jack under the tranny support to lift the engine up to gain clearance. I was mainly relying on the universal joint socket and the micro torque wrench to get the job done. It was crazy and it’s a pain. I think if you can have a mechanic to do it under $200, it probably better to have him do the job. Or, it may be just me being stupid not lifting the engine high enough. 16. While I thought I can finish the everything, I broke my 2nd air pump plastic ducting. That thing is made of cheap material that duct was cracked halfway. So I thought about eliminating the 2nd air pump but I just don’t want to deal with things other than OEM. CA Smog is pain to deal with also. I ordered the OEM duct and replaced it. Start from draining coolant Ready to remove radiator See the cracked radiator at 90k miles Ready to remove vbelts And the crank bolt Crank pulley removed Some of the marks for TDC More cam gear marks Freshly installed water pump

During the mean time, I did a quick paint correction to the body and applied Cquartz ceramic coating to add some protection to the paint. Looks decent I think.

Yes.

CHAPTER 4: Steering Fluid O-ring I think a lot of us have experienced this which seeing a pond of wet fluid on top of the block/head on the passenger side. There are many tutorials discussed about replacing the power steering o-ring. I followed exactly from this post: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-power-steering-o-ring-247949.html (Again, credit to the original post thread starter) Parts that you need: - Regular socket wrench - Subaru Power Steering Fluid SOA868V9241 - O-ring Things to remember: 1. Place paper towels around the ring when you putting thing back in, some fluid will drip out. 2. I used duster spray, grease degreaser to clean the top as much as I can. 3. You need to refill the power steering fluid reservoir after replacing the O-ring. Use a funnel will help preventing dropping fluid everywhere. This picture shows the location of the power steering O-ring, look at the black tube at the bottom of the picture. THe O-ring is inside there. CHAPTER 5: Front Drive Axle My under panel is kinda bended out which I decided to get a new one to replace it (Part No. 56410AG15A). Mine is still up for grab cheap if you are local in socal. See the picture. While I am looking into replacing the underpanel, I spotted my passenger side front axle boot is tossed. Read many thread and decided to just get a replacement from Subaru. Part #28321AG01B. It’s expensive but I know this will avoid fitment problems, noise etc. I read many articles that the repair kit or rebuild services are hit or miss. So, it’s you own decision. For this work, I didn’t do it myself since my friend’s shop can replace it for $100. Mine is tossed If you attempt to do it yourself, here is a reference video. CHAPTER 6: Oil Pan Gasket Reseal, Oil Cooler O-ring/Gasket and Killer B Oil Pick up Tube I had read enough about the failure of the factory oil pick up tube which will end up damaging the engine. Since I am going to reseal the oil pan gasket, I decided to replace the killer B oil pick up tube the same time. The key for this work is to lift the engine as high as possible so that it gives you enough clearance to put the oil pan back. I didn’t remove the exhaust header as I don’t want to mess with the rusted bolts. Since all my exhaust pipes are OEM, so I have enough clearance to perform the work. I also replaced the oil cooler O-ring that is famous for leak. I am very sorry that I couldn’t find the pictures of this work at this moment. I will upload them when I get them. Here is a picture shooting at the bottom of the engine. I used this picture to get an idea where things are. Mine is oily Reference Link for Oil Cooler O-ring Parts that you need: - Oil Cooler Gasket 21370KA001 - O-ring for the oil dip stick 806910170 x2 - O-ring inside the oil pan 11122AA340 - Universal Joint Socket + Socket extension - 3M 08672 Ultrapro Black High Temp Silicone Gasket - Micro torque wrench - A lot of brake cleaner Things to remember: - Remove the dog bone underneath the intercooler - jack up the engine from the jacking point under the tranny. - The trick for me is to lift the engine to the point the engine mount bolt almost coming off the holes. - Clean as much as you can before putting things back in. - Practice how to put enough bead of gasket sealant before putting onto your oil pan. - The oil pan doesn’t have a straight upward clearance. I remember I practiced at least 10 times the only route to lift and rotate up the oil pan to get into the correct position. I think it’s kind of an art to get it up without hitting the sealant. - Replacing the oil pick up tube should be very straight forward, just make sure you torque correctly and double check the torque before covering everything. Chapter 7: Exhaust One of the reason I came back to Subaru because of the boxer rumble. That is also the same reason I wasn’t interested in newer subarus since they are equal length header. There are many advantages for EL header but you know, even it’s not as efficient, it’s just classic. It’s the Subaru rumble classic! In 2017, most exhaust are discontinued from the market. Exhausts are very personal and everyone like their own setup. I used to have Prodrive Exhaust on my bugeye and it sounds awesome. In fact, I am a big Prodrive fan. So I started hunting for a set of Prodrive. I found a set after 4 months from a fellow member. The pair of exhaust cans added a little more sound from the factory, not loud and kinda on the quiet side. I believe it’s closer to Borla and SPT in terms of loudness. But I wanted it slightly louder, so I ended up asking the shop to remove the resonator and replace it with a straight 2.5” pipe. Here is a sound clip filmed by my phone, apology for poor quality, I will try to get a better one later on. I love the sound, noise level, and deep tone. Other exhaust I looked at was OBX from ebay and nameless from used. This picture shows OEM exhaust on the left and Prodrive on the right. Sound Clip (no image), you might need to put headphones on. The next chapter will be something more interesting…..

CHAPTER 3: FIRST TASK: BANJO FILTER AND BURP COOLANT First thing I was trying to address was the to double check the banjo filter. It’s almost a must for every new owner to at least check if their filters are clogged or not. The previous owner said he took it off. But it’s uncertain since I remember reading that 07 doesn’t have filters or some say they all have the filters. I really don’t know unless I check it. I almost forgot where my filters are while I am typing this article. Basically, first one is behind the block on the passenger side. The location is slightly different than the 05/06 LGT. That bolt on my 07 spec B is further inside from where I circled red. I just traced and followed the oil feed line and dig deeper. Removing the turbo cover was a pain as the bolts are rusted. I recommend take plenty of pictures before you remove anything and between every steps. This really helps when putting things back together. The second bolt is simply under the turbo inlet. I had to remove the intake box, all the vacuum hose and pcv valve lines to get to it. AGAIN, removing was very easy and straight forward, but putting it back was a pain and I would not want to do this again honestly. I think the proper way to do it is to remove the intake manifold completely, but I just don’t want to deal with the fuel lines and even more hoses. Since my turbo inlet is in a perfect shape, no wear no tear. I make sure I get it in with the best tight firm fit of everything. Putting the largest hose back (the one comes from the BOV valve) was the hardest one to do. Things are extremely tight in there. The third bolt is on the driver side which will be almost impossible to get to. This one is behind the timing belt back plastic cover and you will need to remove the cam gear in order to get to it. I read this bolt gives less problem so I decided to let go this part and cross my fingers since my hand hurt and sore. After putting everything back in, I decided to burp the coolant. The process is fairly straight forward and a little messy. You can get the coolant burping funnel and it helps a little bit with more tidy work. You can easily google/youtube to find out how to burp your coolant. Remember to do the radiator first and then the turbo reservoir. After that, I was happy do drive the car for a while. Reference Articles (All credit to the original post thread starter, you might want to research more for your model year) https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-vacuum-leaks-and-you-pics-inside-235626.html

Hi All, I have been debating for a long time if I should start a thread regarding my 07 SpecB, since I am not the type of people that writes well. My things don’t usually get a lot of attention. However, since I got this car last summer, I am very surprised that I have gone through quite a few adventures already. In addition, I believe some of the items can be treated as an reminder for other owners which hopefully you all can learn from my mistakes. I tried to picture some of the major items but if you guys need more pictures, I can attach more. Anyway, let’s get start and hopefully you guys will enjoy my story… Things Replaced/Completed: More writeups will be coming Check Banjo Filters Killer B Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pan Gasket Power Steering O-Ring Oil Cooler Gasket Drive Axles Front Brake Pads/Rotors Clutch/Flywheel/Rear Cam Seal TB/WP/Radiator/Tensioners/Front Cam Seal/Spark Plugs 2nd Air Pump Tube Rear Differential Vent Valve Backup Switch/Reverse Cable Headlight Projector Retrofit/Blackout Housing/LED DRL Turbo Restrictor Pill and Tubing Stage 1 Paint Correction/CarPro Quartz Glass Coating Prodrive Exhaust/Remove Resonator Plastidip Wheels/STI Wheel Caps Door Hinges replaced STI Pink Springs on Stock Spec B Bilstein Struts INTRODUCTION I will begin with a little history of myself. My first car is a 03 Bugeye. Unfortunately, it was not a WRX, it was considerable the heaviest year of 2.5RS. Whatever, this bugeye is my baby. It taught me how to work on a car, how to take care of a car, and how to track a car. It got some JDM goodies like V7 STI wheels, seats, gauge, front lip and headlights; prodrive exhaust; and sway bar. I kept is top of the shape and he never let me down. This thing was dead reliable for 160k miles. This is how I begin with the Subaru blood. Meanwhile, me and my wife went thru several different manufactures, but mainly Japanese cars. A picture of my bugeye CHAPTER 1: BUYING FROM OUT OF STATE My Spec B hunting began with I need a four door four seats sleeper that is fun, reliable, and cheap insurance. I seriously considered Audi TT, Integra Type R, Lexus RCF….just kidding, I considered Mazdaspeed3, Mazdaspeed6, and Lexus IS300. The MS3 is a great option, but I have a hard time finding a white one because I want a white one. MS6 is hard to come by and they are usually super high mileage and in bad shape. Lexus IS300 has been one of my favorite, but the back seat is too small and they are mostly 150k+ miles. So I ended up looking for LGT. I was mainly focusing on a lower mileage 07+, I told myself if I can come by a Spec B in a good shape, I will take it over regular GT. After I scroll thru pages of pictures on google, I am in love of 07 Spec B since I have seen enough 08 Spec B. The blue seat and door insert is lovely. Well, after 2 years of search, I found a Spec B in CO which many LGTs are from that area. After 3x texts exchanged with the owner, I decided to give a shot. I convinced my best friend and flew out there with me to check on the car. Flying out of state to buy an average sleeper is kinda crazy I think. Anyway, we arrived and met the owner, checked the car, the car is in decent shape overall, straight body, almost stock except tein S springs, and just tiny little surface rust at the edge of the door. I paid it and drove 7 hours to lodge. The weather next day was crazy hot like 114 degree F. We got stuck on a Sunday afternoon traffic 20 mi away from Vegas. We stuck in the traffic for over 90 mins. Until the traffic opened up, I switched to S# mode and stepped into the throttle while the car was climbing up the hill. Suddenly, I saw the temp gauge goes up slightly and I totally freaked out since we are still 5 hours away from home. I don’t want to have a car break down on the side of I-5, waiting two hours for a tow truck and spend 5 hours towing it home. I then let go the throttle, change it back to I mode and climbed the hill at 60 mph while the big trucks were passing me. The temp went back to normal. We drove home 65 mph all the way and temp never went up again. When we got home, we couldn’t believe we made it. The craziest thing is when most of my friends heard about the story, they responded,” What? You flew out there and drove 1000+ miles back within 24 hours for a damn “Subaru”?” Well, whatever, I did it anyway. The first picture after I pick it up. The route back on Freeway 70. Pretty nice view, recommend you guys to try! Not so much on Freeway 5. Extremely Hot First thing to do is to do the smog check, The quarter panel is so beautiful. Finished with flying score! CHAPTER 2: DMV REGISTRATION You might wondering why I have to talk about registration. I also never thought that anything will happen at DMV. Since it has a Colorado plate, I need to register and perform a vin # at DMV. That day, I brought everything to the counter, I was waiting to process the paper as usual. After a couple mins, that DMV lady said something is not right and she needed assistant from her supervisor, they went back and forth and made several phone calls. I was like what’s wrong with it. So after 15 mins, the lady came back and said, “Something is not right about your pink slip, there is a suspended record associated with this pink slip.” So at that moment, I thought may be the previous owner has violation or late due etc. Then, the lady continued, “ California Highway Patrol (CHP) is on the way and they need to talk to you, so just stay here.” I am like WHAT THE F………….Why do I have to talk to CHP. Anyway, I was scared like hell and almost sweat on my pant. Time clicked and after 2 hours waiting at the DMV with my phone ran out of battery, CHP showed up….the officer approached and said ,” where you bought the car?” ”I got it from Colorado.” He then said,” Well, the previous owner has suspended record that Colorado DMV put on that license and associated car. We just need them to release the record so that you can register from California.” I asked,” So…..I am good to go?” “He said yes after registered. That’s the story I wanted to share but I was like a what the hell happened and I thought CHP is going to put me in jail or sth…..

Saying Hi from Socal also. It's good to see another Spec B in LA. Here is mine. I drove it all the way back from Colorado. I am lucky I was able to make it since I did many major items after it was back to LA. I may start my build thread sometime later this year when I clean up the to do list. Smog check, I love to see the quarter panel. Here is the car after I clean the paint a little bit and applied Cquartz coating.

ok, I will answer my own question. 2004+ STI clutch kit and flywheel will work on my 07 Spec B 6mt tranny. I decided on OEM excedy sti clutch kit with oem flywheel. will report back the driving feeling once installed.

Hi, I would like to replace my clutch since it starts slipping recently. Car is 2007 LGT Spec B. Planning to replace clutch, flywheel, PP, and TOB. Not needed for aftermarket upgrade as I only run it pretty much stock except a cobb intake+tune. I see that many places say STI parts will work directly on the spec B tranny. I would like to confirm which year of STI clutch kit will work? Is 2004 to 2007 or 2008+ STI works? I tried on rallysportdirect but it stated it doesn't fit my car. Attached is the link: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/single-disc-clutches/exe-fjk1000-exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit I really appreciate if anyone can guide me to the right part number may be? Also, while you are in there, I believe you will also replace rear main seal and oil separator plate (anyone know if we have a metal or plastic plate from stock?). Anything else I have missed? Thank you!

Your vent motor control may be stuck or fail. Search AC Servo issue. Basically remove the glove box, there are three of these motors control the vents and modes.