goob_os101

Do we assume your getting fuel pressure other places in the system.

 

I assume you can hear the pump "prime" the system.

 

Go back over what you did, check thing over...

Yes the fuel pump is priming. I had the main line to the FPR disconnected and cranked the car and there is little to no fuel coming out of the main line.

The following parts are installed:

IAG TGV deletes

Cobb top feed conversion

Cobb 1050x injectors

deleted the stock fuel rail with the T1 race development lines

DW65C fuel pump and new filter.

Swapped the oem FPR with a 04 sti FPR

Now I am getting no fuel to the FPR.

I searched and haven't seen anyone doing the FPR swap to TGV deletes using non-oem fuel rails.

Dave, can you confirm I moved the actuator in the right direction?

Also, can I go with side feed or do I need to go top feed on the injectors?

I did loosen the nuts toward the DP/end of the wg actuator arm.

They are also saying: " I was able to see that your turbo is boost creeping and overshooting our target though. This can normally be remedied by porting the wastegate or going external. You are over 100% injector duty cycle in the logs at 0% wastegate."

So is this something that I can't fix mechanically on my, but something they should be able to remedy?

I have a BNR 16G with Cobb catted DP and stock injectors/fuel pump

I am working with a reputable tuner and they noticed the following during request 2nd gear pulls:

"Seeing about 16psi near redline which is why the stock injectors are maxing out. I have seen this plenty of times when the wg is around 15psi on the actuator. You can adjust it down a touch if its adjustable and that may give us just enough head room but right now its almost running out of fuel up top due to this."

I tried adjusting the actuator but I am still seeing 100% IDC near redline.

any suggestions?

Swapped in used rebuilt motor with a BNR16G!!! Cryotune stage 3 tune in progress...

I have not been on here in sometime...time for some updates!

Lifted her

Now she dead!

A couple months ago I lost power and the engine started knocking. Dealer investigated and found that something is in the 4th cyl and is knocking the spark plug flat.

So I bought a LGT for its motor and it came with a surprise...rebuild 50K ago with a BNR EVO 16G!!!

Now I just need to find time to swap motors.

Post lift:

Goob, is that on stock setup? any rubbing?

Yes...stock, sagging, worn out suspension.

Rubbed on mud flaps and rear pinch welds. If you are ok with the squishy oem suspension you could run a 1in spacer. I wanted stiffer springs.

Side note: low traction in the wet with these tires and stage 1. Things will really get interesting when the VF52 goes in

Enkei RPF1s 17x8 Cooper AT3s 235/60

Ready to install:

RalliTEK 1.4" Rear Raised Overload Springs

RalliTEK 1" Front Raised Springs

Whiteline KTA124 Rear Control Arm Assembly

KTB Excel-G struts

KYB top hats

I believe they are +48.

Now I am really concerned about lowering her!

while putting the stockers w/winter tires on last night and noticed some rubbing in the rear with the summer setup(Rota D-Force 18x8.5 & Sumitomo HTR Z III 245/45ZR18). I believe it do to the super saggy rear struts...mostly.

Fun with dip...dipped the grill and lower bumper:

So nice.. Found a guy out in Ceres (Baesic Garage - sic) that says he'll do a roll for $30/fender, pull for $40/fender + $40 to travel 1-2 hours.. So, max $200 for pulling all four fenders.

 

Wonder if that would let me put 245/255s onto my Rotas?

I went with Rota D-Force 18x8.5 & Sumitomo HTR Z III 245/45ZR18s...soon to be lowered on spec Bs

http://i.imgur.com/gZIuWey.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5vrMnee.jpg

Did you read issue 2? I think I addressed the need for rear camber bushings there.

I might wana go an inch lower than stock LGT ride height at the most cuz I dont wana have speed bump/driveway clearance issues and it does snow a bit here in Richmond, Va. so thats a consideration as well. Ultimately, Im wana get height adjustable coilovers (Fortune Autos likely but that price) in the future but closer 2 earth is the immediate goal. How necessary r the camber adjustable bushings 4 the rear upper control arms now and is it mostly 4 clearance w/the rear wheel arches and molding?

Thanks y'all

I have a ready to install setup that may fit your needs...

Tokico HT-S Struts with TEIN-H Springs and top hats

I was looking at these two hoses:

Dayco Fuel Injection Hoses 80079 "special braided reinforcement delivers a recommended working pressure of 100 psi, with a burst strength of 900 psi"

or

Gates 27335 Barricade MPI Fuel Injection Hose "Working Pressure: 225 psi"