Artizan

58 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Just the seal. If it was fresh the seal should have still had some lube from assembly. My gut says you should be ok. Knowledge is power. The more you know... it sucks trusting "pros" and still having to research enough to verify the work performed. 

I worked with Pure Turbos exclusively for rebuilds. In probably 1000 rebuilds I remember 1 turbo that I had to request a re-check. No questions asked they fully rebuilt and rebalanced it for free, in 24 hours. 

Could you help me understand one point?

Once I got the turbo back from them it didn’t align perfectly with the Intercooler, which is why I decided to turn it a bit. 
 

When I turn it back, obviously it will go back out of alignment. One of the tells was that the upper coolant hose was just slightly kinked, but isn’t now after turning. These two situations don’t add up basically. Right now the coolant line is good and not linked at all, intercooler fits but doesn’t align with the bracket to the right of the intercooler. 
Once I turn the turbo back the other way, Intercooler will probably fit perfectly, but the coolant hose will kink just slightly. Is the hose just too long? OEM brand new hose. 

14 hours ago, m sprank said:

You "rotated" the inlet side.  Thats a no-no.  You were grinding the cartridge against the sealing ring when you did that.  You are supposed to rotate between the inlet and hot side.  If it is not lining up properly after a rebuild, it was a sloppy rebuild.  I would pull the turbo to check/correct. 

That’s absolutely infuriating. This was a highly reputable shop doing the rebuild. I hope I didn’t cause a lot of damage by doing this. Could this potentially damage the CHRA or just the seal? I rotate it maybe .5 cm. 
 

Once I get the turbo, how do I know which alignment is correct? I don’t have another turbo to compare with. 

5 hours ago, m sprank said:

No. 

A pic of the pin for reference. 

This thread (is old) is a different turbo, but same procedure applies. 

 

Mine 100% rotated. Maybe I’m talking about the wrong thing? 
 

There were 6 or 8 torx bolts, once I loosened those I could rotate the housing pretty much freely. I tried that when it was outside the car before. 

My turbo after the rebuild wasn’t clocked right and I made the Intercooler fit, but it no longer matches with the bracket on the right. 
 

Not the end of the world, but drives me nuts. is it possible to clock it in the car? I remember at least one of the torx screws was difficult to access if possible at all. 

3 hours ago, WRX USA said:

No, how is this different from your other question asking if they only came for RHD originally?

Because I asked about piano black at first, rather than any black  

Does that clarify it?

Is there’s a black version for LHD cars?

12 minutes ago, ChicagoSam said:

I’m LHD as well. Radio is for rhd so fitment needs some “adjusting” for the trim pieces to fit flush.

(plenty of these radios on eBay ect)

They only came for RHD originally?

8 minutes ago, ChicagoSam said:

Above the McIntosh radio? That’s the “piano” black treatment. Could be a very well done spray job or oem. Have the vents/nav and a right hand drive “piano black” ashtray/clock. (Happy to sell it if your rhd)

I mean the macintosh system yeah with all the silver knobs and all that. I’m LHD

11 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

They’re plenty on EU wrecker sites. P/N is 92174AG050. Good luck finding the kick panels though. JDM_Subaru_parts or something like that on instagram sells the whole kit (console and kick panels). He’s in Poland, he’s got good prices for those. They pop up occasionally on the FB groups too.

I believe Madrig used something similar to this: 1/4" Black Edge Trim Lok Seal Lock : CAMPER, TRAILER, RV, BOATS, HEAVY EQUIPMENT

 

I meant the centre console with radio controls. I never see the piano black one anywhere. 

On 8/12/2023 at 3:32 PM, MoleMan said:

I don't remember a recall ever being issued.  Subaru did put so e sort of wax and covered the area with some sealant from what I remember.  Honestly I can't remember if it was a recall or TSB.  That being said maybe the Three Liter cars were different but I never had this done on my 2006 SE at all and no mention of it at anytime.

If Subaru says it's only a TSB then you are SOL as far as them paying. If it's a recall they will pay without hesitation.  If one dealer gives you crap go to another one.  My dealer never gives any pushback in general even with modded cars on warranty issues.

Keep us informed of the outcome and good luck!

There definitely was one. 
 

mine also blew a line exactly at that block where they put wax years ago. Happened to me 2 years ago and dealer covered the whole thing under warranty. Not sure if I just got lucky. 

4 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Grab the carrier bearing joint on the driveshaft, and see if it has movement. 

Good idea I will check that next 

Where did you get the black centre console?

17 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

MT or AT?

Something loose in the bell housing perhaps?

If MT, failing spring or pressure plate rattling until pushed into place under load?

5MT

Clutch was just done 700km ago. New fork, spring, pivot ball, absolutely everything in there is new. 
 

Same rattle was present before clutch replacement. 

Happens between 2-3,000 RPM. Only when on the accelerator pedal roughly 2%, just barely giving it gas. Never changes in speed or frequency. Always the same rattle. Happens in any gear. 
Appears to happen only under load, but I can’t exactly verify it because when I’m neutral, to get it to those RPMs I have to be heavier on the pedal. 
 

Definitely not heat shields, those have been ruled out. 
Exhaust system has been smoke tested and has all new gaskets. Even then, I don’t see how exhaust would always be same frequency and speed. 
It does SOUND like an exhaust leak. 
 

appears to be coming from middle of the car somewhere. 
 

I do know there’s a small evaporator leak somewhere. Could that possibly be it? 
 

mom going absolutely insane trying to find this rattle. Dealer couldn’t figure it out as well. 

2 hours ago, 08Spec_B said:

@Rusty9they are actually made specifically for the legacy. Attached are some other examples

The front is very close but the rear definitely different. The rear of the blue one was 3 separate pieces.

Where could I get these?

6 hours ago, Rusty9 said:

Really wish we'd get the cool trim levels here.

"Flares" look like generic stick on trimcap or Jewelite we use for channel letter signs

Any interior shots?

Unfortunately not. The car was closed and I was too excited. Should've taken like 100 pics.

First of all, it is very upsetting how much nicer the interior is compared to my USDM lol

Ans second, where do I get these fender flares?! WHERE

Oh also, exhaust manifold has no heat shield, uppipe heat shield was welded, turbo heat shield is solid. So it’s definitely not heat shield, but also doesn’t exactly sound like it.

Happens in every gear, between 2,000-2,700 RPM, only when I am moving and on the throttle at around 15-20%. Does not happen if I rev it while standing still.

 

Exhaust was just checked and fully sealed by a muffler shop. Turbo was just rebuilt. Neither made any difference.

 

I also had an exact same model car before, and it wasn’t doing this.

 

‘08 Legacy GT 5 speed manual.

 

It’s driving me insane and I can’t even think of what can possibly cause a rattle in these specific circumstances. Engine would rattling standing still too, right?

Ouch... RIP... JB weld and hope it lasts for a bit? You might be able to find a stripped head for a reasonable price and have your valves and cams put in, but otherwise, it looks to be done.

 

The heads themselves are not crazy expensive. It's all the additional labour that adds up to thousands it seems.

How???

 

Apparently, the stud was overtightened enough to cause a crack, and I guess then hot exhaust did the rest.

 

I really don't know what to do now, as this repair will cost like 4-5k CAD it seems. And I just dumped a couple of grand into it doing various reliability mods...

The broken-off chunk was put back in place, but obviously that's not a solution

Trying to find laser cut mats for our cars, but seems like pretty much nobody else makes it?

What did you have to remove to get to the pan rear bolts , I cant for the life of me see a way to get to those back bolts without removing a pile of stuff.

 

Also pro tip , get a hair dryer out and heat that bad boy up along the sealing edge before you give it a pry

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

You gotta lift up the engine a little.

 

Remove intercooler. Loosen up the pitch mount to let it move.

Underneath the car, remove both engine mount nuts.

Use a 2x4 and lift by the transmission to give you clearance.

 

It's still tight, but at least possible this way.