Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

BagRidersJohn

I Donated Too
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    215

  • Joined

 Content Type 

Everything posted by BagRidersJohn

  1. BagRidersJohn
    I've had the specB in our shop for the last few days for some "maintenance" I was driving around with my 10 year old sister-in-law + her cousin (both of whom refer to my specB and WRX as racecars, lol) and did a downshift on the highway as they "wanted to hear the racecar" and noticed the exhaust was wayyyy louder than it should've been (which they reviewed as "AWESOME!!!!!") and it turns out my downpipe rusted right through and completely disconnected from the rest of the exhaust. So, I decided it was time to slap on the GrimmSpeed downpipe I've had sitting in my garage for nearly a year now! I had to bend the wastegate divider to clear the actuator arm, no pictures of that sorry. Basically just a trial and error thing. Before torquing everything down I ensured the wastegate was able to actuate fully. I love the quality of this part, I have the same one on my WRX except that one is catless. You might notice in the last picture the turbo inlet is removed in addition to the downpipe. I figured it was as good a time as any to replace some of the worn couplers in the engine compartment, so I installed a Perrin turbo inlet and Perrin throttle body coupler. Both of the original pieces were very worn, but only the throttle body coupler had actually torn. I also installed a Turbosmart BPV I got in a parts trade earlier this year. I also put on an AutoSpeed catback that I got in the same trade, which fits to the bumper cutouts a lot better than whatever was on the car before. It does however interfere with the rear anti-roll bar, so I've got to figure out what to do about that. I've got a couple XL hangers to give a try but assuming that won't be enough I think I'll just drill new holes in the rear mounting points to move the bar up a 1/2" or so. I spent quite a lot of time cleaning up this exhaust before putting it on the car, mostly just wiping it down with tinfoil and vinegar to shine it up a bit but also had the "S" pipe media blasted and painted that with high temp paint. I replaced all the bolts and gaskets too. The nuts and bolts that were holding everything together when I received the exhaust were all low grade stuff which was extremely corroded, so I replaced them all with JIS or greater quality hardware from McMaster. Furthermore, the 2.25" section of pipe coming off the rear of the mufflers that accepts the "Y" pipe was extremely rusted and crumbled when I removed the "Y" to clean it up. For whatever reason, these small sections of pipe were not stainless like the rest of the exhaust. No problem, I cut those off and welded on new pipe, then added a couple relief cuts (as it needs to clamp to the "Y") and replaced the severely corroded clamps with new Vibrant clamps. It's good as new now! The 3" flange that mates to the downpipe had been cut off by the previous owner so I welded a new flange and section of pipe there to complete the exhaust. Hoping to figure out the rear swaybar this afternoon on my lunch break so I can get the car off the lift and back on the road. Since adding these parts will require a tune, I'm going to try to do that myself so wish me luck! There's only a few things remaining that I want to do to the car: Paint + Install wingless trunk Side skirt extensions, I think Evo 8/9 ones work? Replace 9.5" wheels with 10.5" +20 wheels so I don't have to run such massive spacers Modify rear trailing arm bracket to reposition rear wheel back to center of wheel arch Anyhow, happy Friday and have a great weekend everyone!
  2. BagRidersJohn
    Just discovered that the VA chassis (15+) WRX/STI sunvisors fit the BL/BP 05-09 Legacy headliner. I purchased these on eBay for $25/ea in hopes they'd fit, as they're an OEM black material with the same illumination as the 05-09 Legacy. The visor itself is a little bit bigger than the Legacy one, but it DOES work! Here's a photo of the visor bolted into my car, right before I installed the "retainer clip" The retainer hook (square piece that clips into the roof panel) from the 15+ WRX/STI doesn't fit into the roof panel of the Legacy (square part too big), but you can use your original piece from the Legacy (painted black) or better yet-- do what is outlined in post 5 of this thread (http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5628181&postcount=5) and modify the JDM hook to work. Here I've used the original Legacy piece that I painted black, but the JDM hook would be better.
  3. BagRidersJohn
    Here ya go http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2015_WRX-Limited-20L-6MT/_54103_6464526/ROOM-INNER-PARTS-SUN-VISOR/V10-931-01.html I paid $25/ea on eBay, and they are plentiful on there which is nice/sad.
  4. BagRidersJohn
    Annnnd confirmed! The retaining clip from the original Legacy sunvisors happily accepted the 15+ WRX sunvisor. Now I just gotta snag a passenger side sunvisor
  5. BagRidersJohn
    No idea man, sorry. Got em on eBay! edit: did your homework for ya http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2015_WRX-Limited-20L-6MT/_54103_6464526/ROOM-INNER-PARTS-SUN-VISOR/V10-931-01.html
  6. BagRidersJohn
    The VA chassis WRX sunvisor arrived today and it looks to be a go!! The bolt holes for the chassis mount lined up nicely, the illumination wiring is plug and play, and the visor fits within the contour of the headliner as shown. The retainer clip from the VA chassis was too big for the square receiving cutout in the BL/BP roof panel, but I'm suspecting that the original retainer will accept the clip on the new sunvisor. I'll confirm after work tonight but as of now, this looks like a victory!
  7. BagRidersJohn
    Alrighty well I took the plunge and purchased a used VA chassis WRX sunvisor that looks like this: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/H28AAOSwjDZYmghH/s-l1600.jpg It looks pretty close. I'm hoping it will fit! Given the other similarities between the BL and GR/GV chassis and roof panel (same bolt holes for map, dome lights, sharing other plastics, etc.) I think its very likely that the STI sunvisor will fit but it does not have illumination like our Legacies do. That is why I decided to first try the 15+ WRX (and STI, same part) sunvisor. Here's the 08-14 STI sunvisor (as you see, no wiring for illumination): http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Us4AAOSww9xZAluS/s-l1600.jpg The part will probably arrive next week as its shipping from Florida so I'll let you all know how it fits. If the 15+ sunvisor doesn't fit I don't know what I'll do. I had some old sunvisors kicking around so I decided to spraypaint them with vinyl/fabric spraypaint to see how that would turn out. Removing the sticker is difficult and masking it is also not easy so that's a whole different problem. Maybe these can be sourced individually? If none of the WRX/STI sunvisors work I'll probably end up importing JDM sunvisors: JDM Sunvisor part number info: Right 92011AG210JC cap 92011PA000JC hook 92018AG000JC Left 92011AG120JC cap 92011PA000JC hook 92018AG000JC http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=248960&thumb=1&d=1494378973 Thanks to this thread for the sunvisor info: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/darker-side-legacy-black-upper-trim-262063.html
  8. BagRidersJohn
    Good info! All the scrapyards near me are not very nice to work with I buy so many parts from them, but they'll never split off some small part if it could be sold as a complete unit, even for something like this. I think this is why they have so much junk that no one wants
  9. BagRidersJohn
    I finally got around to doing my interior with ultrasuede! The pillars are all done, decided to do the headliner last. Its about 90% done and coming out real nice so far! http://i.imgur.com/SxMDZKn.jpg http://i.imgur.com/wh2W6Oc.jpg I'll get some photos of the other pieces and interior once I get em back in. Not sure what I'm going to do for the sunvisors yet. Anyone know if 08+ WRX/STI sunvisors fit the BL chassis?
  10. BagRidersJohn
    Man, nice find!! I checked on eBay but could only find full seatbelt assemblies for $100++. Part diagrams show the seatbelt assembly as one part number as well... It would be awesome to get these, seems unlikely though. I think the part is the same for 2006-2011 as well.
  11. BagRidersJohn
    Ho-ly shit!!! I've had the upper trim from my wife's totaled BL sitting here in my office for like 8 months waiting to be blackened-- I actually wrapped the A pillars last night but now I don't think I'll be using them. This thread is absolutely incredible man, thank you **so much** for the part numbers! I've done DIY interior wraps before and while they always come out looking just fine, its really nothing compared to the quality of OEM especially for an OEM+ nut like me (and you, obviously). Thank you again for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive list of parts and fine details, you are the real MVP!!
  12. BagRidersJohn
    All done, the big ol' wheels fit great with a little spacing. Car is slower now They're 9.5's with a 265/35 and with 25mm of spacing up front and 40 (:eek:) in the back. I could easily fit a 10.5j +20-something but I don't think that's quite necessary Anyhow, picture of dirty car. Next up is addressing the rust on the doors and probably wrapping it as the 10 year old paint is really showing its age. I also have a downpipe I've been putting off installing, so I should probably do that soon
  13. BagRidersJohn
    Just about done now! I spent some time with the grinder getting rid of any lingering surface rust on the inner quarters then began rustproofing. I used POR products and followed their procedure to a tee: degreaser, etcher, POR15. I did two coats of POR15 and once that was dry enough, I went to town with seam sealer which filled in the gaps between the spot welds. It sealed up really well and overall I'm pleased with my work especially considering I've never done anything like this before! Here's one side all sealed up and ready for the fender flare to be bolted back on I'll have the car off our lift this evening and I'll snap some photos of the new drive height and stance
  14. BagRidersJohn
    Long time no updates! I spent most of my "car time" working on my WRX over the last few months and got it back on the road, so the Legacy is back under the knife! Both of the quarter panels have been rusting very, very badly and given the age/mileage of the car, I couldn't stomach a ~$3000 job for a "proper" full quarter panel replacement. I do however really like the car so I didn't want to let the rust kill it, so I decided to fix it myself to my best ability. The solution is fender flares. While I definitely can't do a proper quarter panel replacement in our shop here, I'm perfectly capable of chopping stuff up, hammering metal and tacking it together! So I decided to take that route-- install fender flares that will cover up the cut out/welded up wheel arches. Fitting up the fender flares was easy peasy. I picked up some generic 2.75" (a bit on the big side, oh well) flares and got to work with fitting them on the car. This part is very straightforward-- figure out where you want them to go, use a heat gun to form the flare to the body panels, then secure the flare to panels. Clecos (basically a temporary/removable rivit) are amazing for this sort of thing, which are the metal pins you see in these photos: As you can see I painted them the body color of the car and that came out alright. I think I'm gonna have to get a new set of winter wheels or run a massive spacer for those 17x7.5's! I made my first cuts into the car on Wednesday night and almost have the quarter panels done. The front doesn't need any welding, just cutting out material. This process is easy too-- draw a line, cut on the line, cut out the rust from the inner arch, hammer the inner arch up to the outer panel (some relief cuts help here), grind the material then tack it up. Here's one quarter tacked up and the other hammered into place ready to tack up tonight. I'll be coating these in POR15 and seam sealer, then have a body shop use a snake to spray the inner arches like I did for my WRX when doing the sedan conversion. As you can see I used nutserts/rivit nuts to secure the fender flares which work great and make the flares very easy to remove! I have some 18x9.5 +35 wheels with 265/35 rubbers to slap on the Legacy once I'm finished up, and I also installed some BC Racing BR Type coilovers the other night as the Bilsteins started clunking a bit which is super annoying. I'm excited to see how the car sits once I finish up this work. Aside from the quarters, the bottom of 3 out of 4 doors is pretty rusty, so I'm strongly considering picking up some clean doors and vinyl wrapping the car as I'm not trying to drop $6k+ on a respray (that shit is expensive around here) Alright that about does it, I'll post some photos of the wheel fitment without the flares and of course the end results once I get it out of our shop
  15. BagRidersJohn
    Took the specB up to Maine this weekend with my wife for a little getaway and snapped a couple pictures with my DSLR that I haven't used in way too long but it got me excited to get back into it! http://i.imgur.com/5YeF1qdh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ehKUrT8h.jpg
  16. BagRidersJohn
    OP has a Dom1.5 10cm which is capable of 400+.
  17. BagRidersJohn
    Seriously, 3" inlet in stock location sucks! I wish I had gone rotated but at least the Dom1.5 fits decently in the stock location unlike other "big-ish stock location" turbos... the inlet however, not so much. In my WRX I've shaved the entire manifold, re-routed everything and re-plumbed all sorts of stuff, so I have the benefit of fitting everything below the IM and just bolting the IM to the TGVs. Even with absolutely massive 17mm spacers, the 3" inlet is crushed in places by the manifold or flanges, especially the flange closest to the compressor inlet. One day I might pick up a JDM manifold to alleviate this issue, but I just don't want to go through the hassle of shaving it all over again A common misunderstanding is that the only reason to "go rotated" is in order to run a gigantic turbo. There are plenty of benefits to rotating the turbo aside from strictly size of inlet and exhaust housing (though undeniably this is the main reason if your only goal is big numbers on the dyno). When deciding to go the "fully custom" rotated route, you have no restrictions on flange choices (V-band everything!), you have more turbo options, everything is easier to access and work on (this is a huge benefit alone especially for race-oriented builds) and fitting an EWG especially when it recirculates to the exhaust stream is becomes much easier as well. Most builds you see with rotated setups do indeed have a huge turbo but that is far from the only reason to rotate. I've seen some dudes with a "less than enormous" rotated turbo get flamed and I just don't get it. Go to a hill climb or race someday and check out some Subarus there-- I guarantee you'll see a few rotated setups with turbos that would fit in the stock location (size wise) and these cars are purpose built to a much larger degree than 99% of the modified subies you see on the street.
  18. BagRidersJohn
    I've more or less got the exact same stuff on my WRX Gasket matching the ports on the heads couldn't hurt Maybe some phenolic spacers too?
  19. BagRidersJohn
    Yeah that's what I've got going on with my WRX, but that involved deleting the big square protrusion in the Impreza bumper. Front plates are required around here but the two times I've been pulled over for it in my WRX I've said that I was taking photos of the car and didn't put it back on and they've let me go. I'm not real eager to do any body work on the Legacy but that certainly doesn't rule it out as a possibility
  20. BagRidersJohn
    Totally! I just haven't seen any without big holes/provisions for the front plate?
  21. BagRidersJohn
    2007 specB full interior for sale: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vt-2007-specb-interior-seats-door-panels-259687.html?p=5570193#post5570193
  22. BagRidersJohn
    Sounds like you've got things pretty well under control, and I think 375whp is a bit on the low end for that turbo/wg setup. I made 363whp/wtq with an 18g on my 06 WRX, internally gated, OEM lines/rails with a Walbro 255 and ID1000's (fueling was not the ceiling though). I've basically got the same setup now in my WRX now (same turbo, HKS EL manifold, but no EWG) and tuner (Bren in MA) says 420 on 93 is totally reasonable. I've got a built SB, stock heads, ported intake/exhaust and an 04 STI 6MT in that car. Suggestions? A good AOS is IMO one of the best things you can do to protect your investment, hell we have enough blowby at stock power levels to justify one. If the car sees winter driving I'd go for one with provisions to circulate coolant around the can such as Crawford or IAG. I've heard from various tuners that Company23's newer EBCS supposedly eliminates WG flutter you typically get from EBCS. Maybe you want to consider that, see what your tuner says. Don't know what else you've got for mods, but with that size of turbo you'll start to see benefits from a DIY gasket match on the cylinder heads (both sides) and porting the manifold/throttle body. Pretty sure IAG TGV's are machined to be gasket matched but honestly I'm not sure. (edit: forgot about our plastic manifolds, disregard porting). If you're rockin a 5spd I wouldn't expect it to last too long with that setup. Mine went through 3rd in my WRX at the aforementioned whp/wtq just driving down the road like a normal person. I was maybe 20% on the throttle when 3rd gear went kablunkachunkaclankalanky. In my experience, fitting a 3" inlet in stock location is about -10 on the fun scale. I've got some absolutely massive 17mm spacers on my WRX and its still a tight fit. You'll want to chop off the little nubbins on the underside of the runners that the engine harness/OEM lines bolt to. I have a 3" perrin inlet and its still squished in some areas despite me shaving my entire intake manifold. What I did was fit the TGV runners and fuel lines, get the turbo inlet on there, then bolted on the intake manifold last with everything underneath it all positioned where it best fit. (edit: forgot our legacy's have plastic manifolds. no idea if that makes the 3" inlet fit better, or worse ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) Why do you want to go speed density? If this is a 4 season car I'd stick with MAF, personally. If you were rotating or aiming for 500+ whp then SD would be better to consider again, in my opinion.
  23. BagRidersJohn
    Main reason being that 05/06 have different cylinder heads. The secondary air injection pump was introduced in 07 in the Legacy which adds provisions on the cylinder heads and a few extra plugs on the engine harness and a different ECM and slight difference in size of combustion chamber / compression ratios with 05/06 having lower compression than the Ej255v2 in 07+. I can certainly make it work, but I'd much rather have a direct swap without having to deal with any ECU modifications, block off plates, etc.
  24. BagRidersJohn
    Front lip showed up today, for now it's chillin on the coat rack in my office until I have a free evening or night to install it I think this will make the front end look a bit nicer, honestly not a huge fan of the front bumper on the BL Legacy http://i.imgur.com/WVqKbJG.jpg
  25. BagRidersJohn
    Well I've had a couple different DP's on my WRX and really love my current GrimmSpeed one so I decided to pick one up for the specB too. Stage2 here I come oh boy! I didn't ball out and get the "limited edition" one with the fancy-pants milled flange but I'm not too worried about it. I might have it coated locally, haven't decided. I went with a catted one because I've already got one fully catless anti-environment-stink-mobile, not to mention the fact that this one sees winter driving so I figure the cat will help fight boost creep a little bit. It's sitting on my shelf at home, just haven't got around to install it but they sure are pretty if you haven't seen one before. Fitment is also much better than other brands I have experience with, and ground clearance is greater too. In other news, I've been hawking Craigslist for an 06/07 WRX or 07-09 LGT with a blown motor. Once I obtain one of those, I'll yank the motor and store the roller, rebuild the longblock at my leisure (installing new headers and up pipe while its out, why not, maybe other stuff as I'm spontaneous like that), then whenever I'm done rebuilding it do the ol' switcharoo with my specB in a glorious zero-downtime engine swap. I'm debating between slapping in forged pistons or just some new stockers from Crawford, but that will largely depend on the condition of the cylinders in the "donor" motor.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use

  I accept