Darth SpecB

Could so much damage happen in 2 miles?

My experience says yes because this exact same thing happened to me. And 600 miles after slapping a new turbo on, boom! There went my connecting rod bearings, cam journals, orifices, everything! But hey there are some people who get extremely lucky...

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Bought the car with 119k MILES. Currently at 123k. 3k on the rebuilt motor!

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Failed rod bearing

 

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LMAO!! I couldn't help but laugh at this, because it's soo true! Good work! I would have used a wooden dowel to knock out the wrist pins because you can risk scoring the rod bushings. I would double check them to see if they are good if you plan on reusing those rods.

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You can get away with around 500$ of machine shop work if you do the hone yourself. I bought a flex hone for my cylinders. However your walls look a bit worse than mine. I believe line hone is for crank journals. Not exactly necessary unless your pushing high rpms, or big hp.

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It is possible they are out of round but you can measure that with a bore gauge. Machine shop is more than capable. Also if they are marked size B pistons. You can use oem size A pistons since they are a little bit bigger.

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You would think that this leak would throw a code?

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I dislike how the red ring around speedometer disappears at the bottom (manual transmission only) I almost cried when I thought I would have to pull the dash apart to replace the bulb or even have to get a new cluster.

Also the common rod knock and catastrophic turbo failure. I drove my car for a week after I bought it until it blew up.

I wish the rear seats were heated. And that we had cup holders in the doors or storage space.

And my Navi is pretty much useless, wish it was a boost, oil gauge or even a cubby.

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Another method you can try to get them off is a bolt extractor. It worked great for me. Of course you would need new bolts if you go this route.

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Will this headlight (Liberty/JDM)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/6c3305ba0100036cf45de18a8d7971d5.jpg

Fit In my car? (USDM)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/2a0649daa0ed9bf517b7881da6a748b2.jpg

They look absolutely the same in size, but it is really hard to tell from pictures, and from reading around I hear mixed opinions.

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I did it myself, so whether or not it was necessary wasn't a factor for me.

 

Looking backwards: a break-in tune for my 99% stock rebuild probably wasn't absolutely critical. It certainly didn't hurt though. My tune pretty much consisted of limiting boost to the wastegate minimum and lowering the redline. It wasn't fancy but it did the job of helping me be easy on the motor.

Interesting, I am looking to do the same thing. I have heard you need to Rev up and engine break in order to seat the new rings to the new hone. The only problem is that I have no clue how the car is tuned atm. It could possibly be stage 2 because when I bought the car I received dyno sheets at 250whp. A stock tune could have been applied before the sale as well which would be detrimental considering I have an intake and turbo back. I don't see a way to be revving my engine without boost since it kicks in around 2500 rpm.

I'm not meaning to thread jack just looking for info. Great job on the build btw! One of my inspirations!

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Was a break in tune necessary? If so was it done yourself?

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