Darth SpecB

I just wanted to throw some new rings on and those were the only ones I could find.

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Stock pistons, arp head studs, sti 11mm oil pump, king performance race bearings, intake, cnt downpipe, magnaflow exhaust. Built for reliability, not power. Dynoed at 255whp.

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Those grooves in the pistons are normal.

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Best way to find out is to clean the engine up real good, then use uv dye to track the source. The turbo feed line can have a small crack, not likely in your case since there is no smoke.

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I have used these piston rings in my engine. About 12k miles on them atm. About 0.5 qt oil consumption per 3k miles.

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Update! There is 2 pins. Got the ****** out.

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I think the shift linkage is jammed. The roll pin is out but I cant seem to free it from the shaft.

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Currently replacing center diff on the spec b. The cover is almost out but appears to be stuck on something. Is there something I'm missing?? The shifter linkage is disconnected and drive shaft. Cant seem to see what else is holding it. The pin is removed for shifter linkage but that doesnt want to move with the cover. Any help would be appreciated.

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I would recommend 4.5 quarts. I sometimes just fill it to 5 quarts with no evidence of aeration. Just to compensate for the larger diameter oil pump (11mm)

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You can try some vinyls. Also try to give more distance between the car in front of you. I do that when behind semi trucks.

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Try to find the factory service manual.

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After trying every parts store in the bay area. Here is my conclusion. This may vary depending on your location, transmission type. Keep in mind I brought my cv axle with me to compare. They failed around 125k miles.

All CV axles were too short for a 6MT. Stores visited: autozone, napa auto parts, oreilly auto parts.

Local stealership wanted 400$

I ended up ordering from heuberger, as their OEM parts and prices are unbeatable, and I would definitely buy from them again, as I have in the past.

If I didn't go this route, I would have had my axles rebuilt at raxles in Florida.

Part number

28321ag01b

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Do you have the means of testing the fuel pressure? That would be your next step to verify.

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Loving it!

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I read somewhere that they purposely designed the rear to sag a bit to help with air flow through the intercooler. Your car looks great!

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Imo removing the turbo is much easier than the inlet. Plenty of access once that is out of the way.

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Yes thanks, but how did it look? We want pictures of 180k fuel filter.

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There is also an oil port on the rear of d25 heads similar to B25, that is plugged. In the video, the oil line is relocated from the top of the head (original location) to the rear port. If you think that's a PITA just leave it in there, and deal with a engine and turbo rebuild just as many others including myself have done.

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Yes pulling the turbo is easiest access.

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This might help. The bolt your looking for is at 2:06.

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I dont remember a banjo being underneath the timing cover. There are no oil lines there. Avcs gets oil from cams/caps. The filter you want is underneath intake, accessible from the rear. There might be one on turbo and one on driver side ocv if your in usa.

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Definitely clean that intake manifold. That carbon build up is not normal. Seems like excessive blowby from pcv system. The pan uses silicone sealant if I remember correctly, so no gasket. It's a bitch and a half to pry off.

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The easiest thing to do with the turbo is have it rebuilt or buy a new one. The oil passages in the block need to be cleaned out with a pressure washer or a solvent tank. Oil lines cleaned or replaced for avcs or turbo. Read the stickies. The camshaft or journals might be scored enough that you may need new heads.

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For a leak down test you charge the cylinder with air through spark plug hole. Make sure the intake and exhaust valves are closed. Turn engine over accordingly with crank pulley. If you hear air coming out of intake piping or exhaust, then you know your valves aren't seating.

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The compression numbers look sufficient. Your plugs describe your cylinders as running lean.

You should check for fuel pressure to see if your getting enough. Definitely replace those plugs, clean your maf sensor, and throw a fuel system cleaner in the tank. Also change air filter.

2.5 quarts every 6k miles with a leak isn't too bad. You should be changing your oil every 3k. And check/fill oil everytime you get gas.

Start saving up for a replacement engine, or at least address the cam seal leak.

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