A_A_ron

350 to 400 HP is a lot for these cars but there is more to power than peak horse power. If you are serious about going for that much hp you will need a ton of supporting mods. I would say a good first step before you drop 5-10k is to get ARP head studs in it, a drop in panel filter, and a nice dyno tune.

 

This car really opens up the power band from stock with a good tune. It may only be 10-15 more hp than factory at peak but in your 4k rpm range it might be 50 more hp. I strongly recommend you thoroughly read this stickied thread containing a lot of lessons learned about power in the 5th gen gt platform from the people who trailblazed back in the early 2010s.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-power-roadblocks-and-solutions-259192.html

A word of caution. I know cobb's system runs .5-4.5 volts saving 0 volts and 5 volts for error codes. With an ethanol sensor even a small amount of water in the system can throw of the values by a huge amount. Cobbs flex fuel plus their AP will put you in limp mode if it determines that there might be a problem with the detected ethanol percentage. While you are tinkering it would be a good idea to see if the open source code has anything like this.

Reviving old thread, any info on that non Cobb Flex Fuel kit?

 

The power roadblocks sticky thread mentions it. The non cobb solution is not a kit and it's open source. You will have to do a lot of research and work.

I pulled the engine. Huge first for me.

I really need to update my build thread. It's been like a year. So slack on it.

 

Same same

I have an 04 Outback H6 VDC Sedan that's developing an exhaust leak that sounds like it's from the left rear wheel area.

 

Is anyone selling some exhaust or know of an affordable replacement with or with out the catalytic converter?

 

I'd even buy headers back if available.

In addition to the throttle body coupler check the intercooler end caps top and bottom. The high boost can separate the end caps bending back the aluminum tabs.

I wonder if the plastic under car shields make a big difference. I notice a lot them get tossed. My 2011GT looks remarkably well, I doubt prior owner did anything to clean it.

 

I tossed mine because it got too damaged but I have been running the Primitive Racing skid plate.

2021 q4

2021 q3

2021 q2

2021 q1

 

Pulled the engine. Big first for me personally. Free engine stand is too big and I had to buy longer bolts to mount the engine.

Falcor what are strut isolators?

ssulb care and cleaning during the winter will definitely help. I know my subframe isn't the greatest and I've thought about replacing it. Since I lowered my car I've had some scrapes and bumps, one incident with summer tires, a freak early snow dusting, and a curb. My subframe is probably structurally sound but as I am building this into a track car I want to have one that's not dinged up and rusted. It'll last the life of the car if all you are doing is commuting but when you start modding requirements can change.

ruh roh

 

yeah, I know, damn bearings, good things coming soon though. Picked up a very lightly used no rust vf54 from a 15+ WRX buy sell trade facebook page of all places. I have an exhaust housing without a crack now. I can either go OEM or BNR TD05 upgrade. Still deciding and talking to my tuner.

parts.subaru.com

10103AC890

You can't lift Subarus too much before suspension geometry gets a little questionable. Easiest and best way to go with out burning cash is a set of 1" top hat spacers. Bigger tires do a little bit but you're taking an already under powered car and giving it a worse gear ratio.

 

Primitive Racing who makes great skid plates many of us use also has a pick your height spacer kit that's very affordable.

https://get-primitive.com/lift-spacers/262-lift-spacers-2010-legacyoutback.html#/front_lift_spacer_s-pick_your_size/lift_spacer_combo_se-pair_of_3_4_front_an/rear_lift_spacer_s-pick_your_size

 

LP Adventure is a very good company with great products and thorough engineering. I talked to the owner at his booth at Boxerfest. He cares about his product and doesn't take short cuts when building out their product line. Their kit is a full around 2" lift with all the extra bits to correct suspension alignment. It's pricier and for the 10-14 Outback but it should fit. Ask around for confirmation before buying.

 

https://lpaventure.com/collections/outback-2013-2014/products/lp-aventure-2-lift-kit-2010-2013-outback

Just go after market double din with android auto or apply car play and use your phone like the rest of us poor folk.

Good luck and double check everything when it comes to your brakes. Also it's very handy to have a partner with you when bleeding and you should do a full bleed if you've had any issues. Air bubbles will spell huge issues when things heat up.

Subbed. Interested in a viable upgrade to oem charge pipe that fits well, even with some added work.

 

Same, there is another thread where some guys have been discussing their attempts and where things have come up short.

 

I just wanted a bigger list with TMICs included as they are usually upgraded together.

 

Also some of the other kits out there seem like they would be very easily converted with only one or two pieces of custom silicone.

yeah so the total came to 174ish with tax and shipping

I would have been paying almost 250 without the discount

 

I'll let you know how they look when they get here

Yes, he offered me a 25% discount so I took a shot.

 

We'll see when they get here and I can sell them to get some of my money back.

Updated list

I messaged him.

 

They came from 2010 STI with 60k miles.

 

He sent me some photos of the worst lobes and my tuner sent me the cropped in section as what he would be concerned about.

 

https://imgur.com/a/d3MRsdr

 

I love you guys and your research so far but some damn pictures would be great.

 

I am going to join you in the effort to find a easy mod WRX charge pipe to LGT fitment.