Das Ninjabot

Along those same lines I'm curious what materials cost is for diy composite intake manifold spacers. I assume my ej25d phenolic spacers won't for the ej255?

 

I don't believe they will fit, but I think Grimmspeed offers some 3mm spacers for something like $50. Between materials and time, you'd probably be money ahead just buying them.

Also had a random thought thought a composite intake would be pretty cool both literally and figuratively

 

Plenty of diy options, just sayin...

 

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The marks on the belt won't line up after rotating the assembly. Use the marks on the crank and cam pulleys for alignment. If they're in line, you're good. Post aa good front picture of the engine for us to see.

Thank you for pointing this out, completely forgot that. Went back at it today and ended up with the same problem, but it was much easier to turn over via wrench. It seems that after I get it lined up, the left side (driver side) rotates backwards when the tensioner is released. I tried clocking those cams but still ended with the same issue. Any thoughts? Pics are after rotating the crank twice through.

 

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Think im going to see if I can figure out how to get a ej25 in the back of a VW rabbit tomorrow...wish me luck

There'll be plenty of room! Good luck!

 

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Man I was looking at that picture before reading your post thinking now I see why it's zero rust �� that oem oil leak anti corrosion protection lol

 

Ha! Funny, that's the first crack I made about it!

 

Unfortunately I've hit a snag re-timing the motor and I'm now hoping I didn't bend every f*$#ing valve in the thing. I marked the belt on it's edge for the exact tooth spacing per the manual. I had it all lined up and released the tensioner and went ahead and started rotating the assembly by hand. It was very tight, though I chalked it up to cycling through the test with three of the spark plugs in. When I was done cycling it through twice the marks were about five teeth off on each of the four cam sprockets. I'm going to try to get it right the second time, but damn I'm pissed. This is the third time I've gone through this process, but first while the motor is in the car. I'm really surprised that it skipped teeth and really hope the valves aren't fragged. Wish me luck!

That plug looks like the one on the windshield washer reservoir.

 

Oddly enough, that's how I found the mystery plug. When I was installing the master cylinder brace I removed the washer fluid reservoir and was confused as to why the plug was not going back onto the pump. Do wagons have more than one pump, one front one back? If not, the mystery continues!

Wanted to finish the JDM fog install but the 2.5 got impatient for the oil change that was planned for Tuesday and ejected most of it out of a failed cam seal. Was very happy that it's something that can be fixed without pulling the motor or even a valve cover. Unfortunately the valve seal retainers were a couple days out. Hopefully it'll be happy by Saturday.

 

Third pic is an unidentified plug coming from under the engine relay/fuse block. Wires are white w/blue and green w/black. I was unable to find it on the crappy diagram. My guess is it's for a wagon and unused on my sedan. Anyone familiar with it?

 

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Nice! Good find at low miles no rust and manual. Those are getting really rare in good condition

 

Exactly, especially here in Minnesota where most are just trashed by the salt. I wasn't too upset paying a little above market price because of those things. It will make it hard to cut up for the fender flairs, but I think I'll be ok after it's done.

Swapped out the Cusco GC8 bar for a Juran bar that I like much better (and doesn't have clearance issues).

 

Also installed the Grimmspeed master cylinder brace, though it is tough to get a good photo of it.

I've finally gotten my lazy ass around to making a build thread for anyone who may care to peek in on the progress of my '98 GT sedan build. The car was originally an Oklahoma car and I bought it from a guy in Wisconsin who had brought it up there. Minnesota winters are very hard on cars because of the salt mixture that we use on the roads. I bought this for $3,600 in the fall of 2017 because of the lack of rust, the awd, the fact it is a 5 mt, and it had less than 90,000 miles.

 

The car was mostly stock with a few cosmetic enhancements done by the last owner. He said the headlights and tail lights were JDM parts, had removed the airbox for a cheap pod filter, and had an exedy stage 2 clutch. There was a uel header and shitty fart can exhaust and cheap fog lights but was otherwise solid.

 

I discovered that his "craftsmanship" was garbage and I have undone much of what he did to the car. I had to do the head gaskets almost immediately after purchase. My goal for the Legacy was to have a reliable daily driver while I finished law school that I could build into a solid autocross car. With that, I started on my Subaru journey.

 

As of this introductory post, here are the mods that I've done (in no particular order), and the work I'm in the middle of or have parts ordered:

 

Done:

Kartboy short throw shifter and bushings

Group N pitch stop, motor, transmission mounts

Prothane front control arm bushings

Kartboy rear sway bar endlinks

K&N pod filter

Redline Shifter boot

Grimspeed phenolic intake spacers

Tanabe lowering springs

KYB AGX adjustable struts

KYB strut mounts

Powerstop calipers & slotted rotors front and back (WRX front & gen 4 legacy rear)

Stoptech stainless steel brake lines

Akebono front pads, Powerstop rear pads

Exedy stage 1 clutch

ACT lightweight flywheel

Sport Edition rims (currently plasti dipped bronze)

Achilles ATR sport tires

JDM stainless steel door sills

Cusco strut tower brace

Bugeye WRX front seats

2005 Impreza steering wheel (with 1998 Legacy cruise stalk)

New oem radiator

New oem steering rack

New oem power steering pump

Wrapped the uel header

Flowmaster muffler

Pacesetter high flow catalytic converter

2.25" exhaust from header back

Stubby antenna

3rd generation sedan window vents (direct fit!)

Grounding mod with distribution block

MDS Coil

SSI 4 point harness

 

Working on/parts ordered or obtained:

JDM Fog light install (what a pain in the ass)

Pioneer head unit, Infinity reference front speakers, and crossovers

Recovering door card inserts

Hood struts

Fender flairs (coming from Russia, due late June, 2020)

New valve cover gaskets

Knock off STI pedal covers

Grimmspeed master cylinder brace

Hella Horns

 

Parts installed then removed:

Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley

Cusco strut bar

 

Thanks for checking this out. I'm sure I've forgotten some mods or repairs. I was able to autocross the car the last meet of the season in 2019 and won my class (Street Touring S)

 

Pictures are the day I bought it, what it looks like today (in the middle of the fog install that is taking too long), and me holding my Oktoberfest trophy at the 2019 Sports Car Club La Crosse meet.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! I'll update projects with pictures as I go along.

 

Happy motoring,

 

Das Ninjabot

I had to replace mine as well, but went to a salvage yard and got a new board, carpet, and 3rd gen tool kit and foam insert for $20.

Changed my rear diff oil.

 

How big of a pain in the ass is this?

Figured I'd post an update. It did turn out to be the MAF, so thank you to wtdash! I sprayed it down with electronic parts cleaner, both inside and both sides of the connector. The problem is still there but it has been drastically cut down. A new one has been ordered and I anticipate all will be right in the world.

...a couple other thoughts (not a mech/tech, so take it/leave it):

-IAC?

-Neutral switch going....>>bad?

- If you connect the GREEN connectors under the dash, Key On/Engine OFF, it'll cycle the sensors, fans, etc. and you might be able to find one that's NOT cycling? I found a bad purge valve (?) this way a few years back.

 

 

- Based on your previous response, I'd guess your up-to-date on tuneups, but just in case.....

 

- And you did use NGK platinum plugs?

 

Thanks, I'll give the connector/cycle thing a shot.

 

The parts are new and plugs are NGK.

 

Haven't gotten out to it yet, but I'll keep working

how do you get into autocross? as far as finding and competing in events. my sec gen is my beater but id like to try in my 5th gen

 

My advice is to look into what whitetiger sent and then go out in your 5th gen with the aim of seeing how it is and having some fun. Don't go out there and get overly competitive your first time out. Take note of what classes and cars are running in your area. If it's something that you want to do with one of your cars, then take a look at the SCCA rulebook and see what kind of modifications you can do and still be in a class where you would be competitive down the line.

 

This is the easiest and cheapest way to get into motorsports and is an absolute blast. The big things that they will look at in tech is a properly secured battery, a seatbelt (or harness) in good shape, no "active" leaks, and a snell rated helmet (often have some to rent on race day). That being said; there are still dangers - breakage and accidents can happen, especially with someone getting too big for their britches.

 

If you have any other questions, let me know, I may not be an expert, but I am happy to help or point you to a resource!

For the WRX, but similar: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2531534

 

I'd check for Vac leaks, clean your MAF, and consider changing your front O2 sensor. The O2 will frequently cause issues b4 it dies and throws a code.

 

If it's definitely temp related, I'd replace the CTS/coolant temp sensor (not the gauge sender).

 

Td

 

Both O2 sensors are new and the temp sensor is about 6000 miles old. I wouldn't say it's temp related either way. I'll check for vacuum leaks, but it doesn't seem consistent for that. I'll clean up the MAF and see if that doesn't help, thanks for your input!

I've noticed recently that my LGT (5mt) has a slight stumble or hesitation when accelerating at low rpm. There is a click (sounds like a relay) coming from the lower left area of the dash (by driver's left knee). There are no codes being thrown and the problem only happens in first or second if I'm lugging the engine a little getting going from a stop or when I should downshift into first from second. There is a click or two, the engine stumbles and then catches back up and all is well.

 

I'm not terribly worried about it as I can always just give it more gas and not experience it. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Searched the forum and didn't see anything resembling my issue. From the diagrams I'm seeing, it may be the fuel pump relay. Thoughts?

There MIGHT be plans for a procharger in the future haha. But yeah the car will be set up for fun, not so much a dedicated autocross/track car.

 

Oh damn, that would be a hoot!

TBH swapping to RWD would bump you into a class where you would be virtually non-competitive when you consider the power limitations of our motors.

Took the '98 GT out to its first autocross event yesterday. I bought this car to commute to law school then retire to autocross once I graduated. Almost every bit of maintenance and modification has been done with this goal in mind.

 

Yesterday I entered into my first event with this car (probably my 6th or 7th overall). I was not expecting to be competitive in my class, but won it by .6 seconds! Beyond the trophy, I was faster than the 2012 STI and the 2016 WRX! Tons of fun and the car is going to be extremely competitive with some dedicated track tires next year.

 

Anyone else autocross their 2nd gen?

Installed a new power steering pump, racing harness, and an oil change on Saturday, then went out and won my autox class on Sunday.

Got the wrapped header installed, new lugs, strut tower brace clearanced and installed, and finished the full grounding kit. Car is much, much happier now. Next up is to install the fuel evap canister and solenoid, jdm fogs, and jdm sill plates that are sitting in the garage. Then its getting the cat back installed, windows tinted, and valves adjusted. Almost there.

That hood is slick, how bad was the shipping though?!

Finally got around to installing my craigslist rims with the new Achilles ATR Sport 2s, drilled and slotted rotors, SS brake lines, 03 WRX calipers, and Akebono ceramic pads. I'd say it all turned out pretty well, but I do need to roll the rear fenders a bit and get the engine sorted a little more, some pretty healthy ticking, I think I'll have a pro look at the valvetrain. I also wrapped my older, heavier UEL header so I can take the garbage SS one off. I've never wrapped before and it didn't turn out perfect, but it isn't terrible. We'll see if that isn't at least a little part of my noise.

Rock Auto is great for replacement suspension parts and there are a ton of aftermarket options as well.