Das Ninjabot

Das Ninjabot,

 

Thanks, I was looking at these remotes. My car has a Subaru receiver under the dash, Part number H7110AS011. Is this the model on your GT? The units are cheap enough I might just get one and try it.

 

Yup, that's the same part number mine has and the remotes work great for locking/unlocking. I don't know if the trunk button can be used, not used as far as I know. If someone else knows if and how that can be done, I'd be very interested.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120735019855

 

This is the replacement remote that I bought for my '98 GT. They paired with the existing factory transponder/lock control and was a breeze to program.

I chased down a problem with my tail lights that has been driving me nuts trying to trace. Turned out to be a combo of a bad ground within the bulb housing and a bad bulb. Thankfully it was a cheap and easy fix after the diagnosis. Glad to be able to drive it again.

I have a sedan and the third gen sedan wind deflectors fit, but they stick to the body, not the door, so they look a little off. They fit fine, but because they don't move when the door is open, there is a high probability of bumping into them and cracking them. Ask me how I know. That being said, I'd do it again.

I would try another alignment shop if you can. We have to vote out the bad shops by putting our dollars elsewhere.

 

100% this. This doesn't just apply to mechanics. If any business has wronged you, or done subpar work, why keep giving them your money? If it's because it's cheaper, then you are just paying them to continue ripping you, and others, off. Find someone that does good work and pay for that good work. It's not always convenient, or cheaper, but think about it in these terms; you've worked hard for your money, why give it to someone who isn't going to respect you, or your vehicle, enough to do the job right? Voting with your dollars in every aspect of your life is the way to ensure that we support those who work as hard as we do, and punish those who look to take advantage of others.

 

I'll get off my soapbox now.

New brake light issue popped up the other day.

 

A friend was following me home after a round of golf and told me that my brake lights weren't working at all. Rather than dig into wiring right away, I decided to throw in a new brake light switch and then go from there. After the new switch was installed (and adjusted) the brake lights stay on all the time. I was in a bit of a hurry after it was installed and decided that I'd mess with it after running an errand or three. I unplugged the switch and jumped in the other car to go, and noticed that my brake lights were still on. I ended up pulling the negative battery cable to turn them off.

 

Anyone have anything similar to this before?

Given where you live there is a good chance. I'd say pick one of those failure items. Check the FSM for the power and grounds wiring section for that circuit to locate it in the car.

 

That does seem to be the next logical step. I did the engine ground "upgrade" as well, and was hoping there was something similar for the chassis. Thanks for the nudge to do it the right way.

Does anyone have experience with chassis grounds? I've got a few electric issues that I'm guessing could be ground related, but I'm not sure. My wing mirrors don't adjust, even though there is power to the switch (could be a bad switch), my rear defrost doesn't work (though the light on the button comes on), sometimes the drivers window likes to continue making noise after it's all the way up (like it has hit it's stop but still tries to go up for a second), and the door locks do not like to unlock (tried 3 switches). It all seems like stuff that could be due to a bad ground(s). Thoughts?

I got my rain guards off of rock auto. They are for a third gen, but fit just fine, would be hard pressed to tell they are not for the second. Pretty sure you can find a bug guard there too, but may have to look around at different years.

Nice! If you don't end up using the spats, I know someone who would likely buy them off of you...

Zman, what is the Dodge in the exhaust pic? I'm guessing '72ish Dart by the reflector...

And the timing is done! I got a cam holding tool that made doing this in the car much easier. One of those things that got me annoyed that I didn't make it myself, but damn, its golden. There are a few things to button up, but the danger ride was successful and I can now move it out of the garage and move the Galaxie in to begin that build.

Welcome and good looking ride! I'm just across the river from you and have my own '98 gt sedan build, though not as ambitious as yours. If you need any local help, shoot me a message!

Congrats! Certainly a good reason to slack on those trailing arms!

What are you going to use to repair any problem spots?

I swap coolant about every two years, so I don't mind pulling the rad and cleaning everything out. I credit my 305k no head gaskets to keeping on top of coolant swaps.

 

The coolant that is in it is only about a year and a half old, close to 15k miles or so. I could catch and re-use, but I'd rather not even **** with it. The cam lock tool should make this work. Then it's crossing fingers for the valves to be good. If they aren't, I think I'll swap the 2.2 heads onto it. I'll be calling delta cams on Tuesday to get a quote on a regrind either way.

Hey all, first post here

 

So last month I bought a non running 1998 Subaru Legacy GT Limited. And I am putting in a EJ205 and a 02-05 WRX manual transmission. Right now I am currently stuck on finding a shifter assembly for the car. Do you guys have any suggestions on where to find these parts? I've tried looking on a ton of websites, plain old google search, and ebay and just can't find anything. I am also looking for a clutch assembly/pedal as well.

 

Thanks!

 

The shifter linkage and shifter assembly from the donor should work just fine.

Have you already sourced the motor and trans? Did you get the wiring harness and ecu from the donor car?

I've only ever done it in the car, but I do take out the radiator so that leaves lots of room.

 

I did not pull the rad this time. I figure that if I have to pull the rad, then I'm draining coolant, if I drain coolant, then I'm pulling the motor. I know that's a silly threshold. I did just order a cam lock tool, no idea why I didn't order one earlier.

You can get the twin cam setup installed. It is just annoying. It helps a lot to have four hands.

 

Very much so, and double that when it's in the car. Other two times have been on the stand and much much easier.

The single cam version isn't bad to get assembled. The twin cam is pretty awful. I've done a few of each and the last time I did a twin it still took two tries even using the proper tool to hold the cams. That twin also was off on one of the four cams when we took it apart, so I'd say everyone dislikes doing it.

I do have a set of 2.2 dual exhaust heads that I was thinking of using at some point. Wonder if that point should be now. My understanding is that I'd need a 2.2 intake but the ECU and everything else would be fine. I had planned on sending the sohc cans to delta for their stage 1 regrind first.

 

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Way to go man, that's awesome!

 

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The marks on the cam sprockets and crank sprocket should line up after rotation, the marks on the belt won't line up after rotation as the belt is not an integer multiple length of the circumference of the cam sprockets.

 

When you are putting it together you get all the marks lined up with the slack in the belt where the tensioner will take it up not somewhere else in the run. When you're extra sure pull the pin and nothing should move except the tensioner should go taught. The sprockets are still lined up. Then you rotate by hand 720 degrees at the crank and when the cam marks line up so does the crank mark. If they don't and you didn't jump a tooth then something is wrong. It's a lot harder to explain than to demonstrate. Are you missing the dowel in the back of a cam sprocket so it is slipping relative to the cam?

Thanks for the clarification. It's on the dowels, but I can't seem to line it up to get the slack out at the right spot. It's a little frustrating because I didn't have any issues the first two times. Its very tempting to 3.0 swap it now but I think I'll get another season out of the 2.5 first and get my galaxie back on the road.

 

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So I bit the bullet and bought a "new" car for a dd to get back and forth to work while looking a little more professional. This has got me pondering how to get the subbie back up and running. Currently, the timing marks on the drivers side do not line back up after rotating the crank by hand. It did occur to me though, the marks line up if I don't pull the pin on the tensioner. When you rotate the crank by hand, should that be done with the pin pulled or not? I have no recollection of how I did it the last two times. Any thoughts?

Still planning to have the engine installed and storage unit empty by tomorrow.

 

Good luck man!

So my clutch and flywheel look like trash. The clutch disk was rusted together in pure me big chunk.

 

Can you get someone local to you to resurface the flywheel? I think it was $40 last time I had it done.