leetdrv

The dealer will register the new key rfid tag with the immobilizer. This requires dealer tools.

 

The VIN is stored in the ECU only, not in the immobilizer or key.

 

Locksmith can only help you if you have a key or at least the chip portion of the key. They clone the rfid chip.

The engine computer will not turn the engine on without a chipped key present.

 

You can tow the car to the dealer to program a key

 

Or install a matching set (key+ECU+BIU+gauge cluster) from another car

Definitely more than 10 years experience working on cars, my guess is somewhere in the 15-20 range.

Not sure if all but my 6th Gen Legacy has it. I was not aware that 5th Gen cars do not have that mount.

 

An FB25 from a Forester had engine mounts that were similar, maybe identical to a 2nd Gen Legacy.

Some good info here, however,

 

FB25 has an engine mount connecting the engine to the lower radiator support. EJ25 cars dont have a provision for this mount.

 

Other concern, its highly unlikely that the gauge cluster and the BIU from FB car will be plug and play for the harness in the EJ car.

 

Next, the VIN number is stored in the ECU. when ECU is swapped and the car is scanned when being smogged, the VIN will not match. You will need to edit the EPROM in that ECU. I've done model year 2005, but unsure is the next gen ECUs use the same code.

You will have to retain your 2008 ecu, since the immobilizer needs it.

 

FB25 has variable AVCS intake and exhaust, which your ecu will not control.

 

If your car has manual transmission, you could use a standalone ecu.

 

Otherwise the only way is a complete body harness swap from the donor car including all immobilizer components. If it's an automatic, a transmission swap also.

Agreed, 65W bulbs are only marginally better than stock, that's why I feel like experimenting with cheaper 65W

 

Indeed disabled DRL, they are not mandated in my area and the 65W have shorter life span than 55W in general.

I've ordered a few pairs of Osrams from Daniel Stern in the past.

 

I'm asking because the Nokya is 3x cheaper and Hella 4x.

 

I'll give Nokya a try.

Any reviews or experience with Hella 70W or Nokya 65W H7 low beam bulbs?

what about your rear wheel bearings?

I drive on windy mountain roads very often. I drove about 7 different 4th gens over the years including one with less than 10k miles. They all over steered. Wagons seem less dramatic, maybe due to weight distribution.

Elbow installed straight into the EVAP hard line

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259609&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

The other end goes to the electronic solenoid, correct?

The pressure valve is only there to let EVAP (fuel vapors) to go into the inlet under boost. When not in boost, the pressure based valve is closed, and an electronic solenoid opens directly into the intake manifold.

 

I'm considering the evap valve delete. Any cons with evap line under boost conected directly to IM?