upstater

or a WRX... That said, I like Eyesight a lot, I use ACC all the time. When I started driving I had the dream car for subieguy21, a RWD Ford maverick. Nothing electronic at all, manual windows, dreamy (ha ha) 34 years ago, when I started driving, cell phones didn't exist (nor gps, nor the internet... front wheel drive cars were just starting to take over, anti-lock brakes were only on luxury cars that few people owned, etc). Later on, I owned motorcycles for years and loved riding them, but as a very defensive operator of a motorcycle I became more an more aware that newer, younger drivers (and a few slightly older ones) value texting more than paying attention to driving, to the point that it did not feel safe to me to ride a motorcycle where I live. Eyesight is as much to protect me from those inattentive drivers as it is to protect me from a mistake I make. FWIW I am pretty sure Acurawatch (my wife got a 2017 RDX with Acurawatch) makes more annoying sounds than the Subaru version (and in my opinion, driving both, Subaru's Eyesight is much better than Acurawatch, though Acurawatch lane handling is pretty good, ACC is much better in the Subaru), maybe the warning sounds in the Acura can be turned off, but it is her car, and she isn't going to figure out the internal menus to change those settings.

I have navigation (Limited) but I use Waze off the iphone, bluetooth for audio guidance, and it both gets me there and lets me know where the popo are hiding... I have used the suby navigation a couple of times, it is good for the center arrow displays, but otherwise, I don't bother with it.

http://www.mass.gov/ocabr/consumer-rights-and-resources/autos/lemon-laws/new-leased-lemon-law.html Massachusetts, one year or 15k, whichever comes first

Um, good luck having the dealer replace the car or issue a full refund to you (with 21k driven) because of a bad rear differential. Let them replace the differential under the drivetrain warranty and then drive your car (maybe this fixes the problem?), or trade it in. At best, try to get an independent mechanic to check if you think the service department took too long fixing the issue. The only way I can see you getting a full refund is if the car was sold to you with a bent frame, or you got a Lemon Law replacement because they were unable to fix it despite many attempts and you documented everything. But that ship sailed. Lemon Law replacement after 21k is unlikely.

yes, electricity is like water, it will flow as long as you connect the wires together, and watch out for leaks, meaning, crimp that up and run some electrical tape around it so it cannot short out or get disconnected when you move it around (keep the wires from pulling out of the connector). I solder only sometimes, usually using whatever connectors I feel like or have handy. If you keep doing electrical work on your car, learning to solder can be helpful, especially with higher voltage items. For LED lights, just about anything will work from thin or thick gauge wire to crimping, I even used a screw on nut when connecting my driver side LED light to the ends of the ground/power wire run from the map light, then taped them up, because that was simple and quick. These often come in handy: https://www.radioshack.com/products/crimp-on-snap-connectors https://www.radioshack.com/products/wire-tap-ins I have had bad luck with these: https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-quick-splice-con-18-22awg often they don't cut the insulation sufficiently and therefore don't tap the wire like they are supposed to, but to be fair, usually I am just using whatever gauge wire I have handy, and the taps are not the correct size for the wire. But others share my experience: http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/resources/the-problem-with-wire-tap-connectors/

Levorg in the states would probably be a hit, but they probably need to change the name.

apples to oranges, compare it to a WRX that also has a 2.0 Turbo

I decided to add some LED footwell lighting using a non-OEM approach, using two modules from Oznium.com tapped into the approach lighting using the map lights. https://www.oznium.com/super-bright-12v-led-module Inspired by this dude did the same with his WRX: I didn't want footwell lights on all the time, I like the idea of them on when get in, then fading to black... Also, I found this: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/foot-well-lights-door-opening-373849/ and The dimming signal comes from a switched ground, via the BIU/BCM...And the forester forum highly recommends putting in LED map light bulbs before tapping into this circuit, because that control device is expensive and could be voltage sensitive. So I ordered these 6 led bulbs to install (SMF6 cool white): https://www.diodedynamics.com/store/2003-2009-subaru-legacy-map-light-leds These Diode Dynamics bulbs were a bit longer than the OEM, so I would recommend you buy a different vendor for these...they are however brighter than stock, and daylight instead of yellow. They do fade just like the OEM bulbs do. You can see the back of the bulbs in the picture below. The big white connector with the most wires supplies power to the map lights (among other things), I needed to unplug all the connectors to remove that entire unit to get the new map light bulbs in place (I even pushed out the light covers because it seemed impossible to do them from above). So if you need to remove the overhead map light console to do the bulbs that is the one connector to reconnect to power the map lights, then do the rest. http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s587/Zeeper1/IMG_1311_zpsmxbblbdl.jpg This picture shows where I attached wires to the map lights (picture is before cleaning it up, I used crimped on connectors and slid them under the metal rails on the top/ground wire and side/power wire of the unit. Similar to WRX dude, except mine will turn on if I turn on the driver side map light (I wanted my side to control it, vs passenger map light), and comes on as an approach light with the doors (if the map lights are set to door, and dims exactly as it should now just like the map lights). Red is power wire, and Black wire is to the switched ground. Wires were run across the top of the windshield and down the passenger door pillar, very easy to tuck away invisibly. I did blow a mini-fuse twice (the one that controls the dome lights, etc, is in the drivers side interior fuse box, labelled Backup, 10a), and of course, the local auto parts store has almost no low profile mini fuses, just one box with two 10a fuses...so I replaced the fuse and the spare from under the hood, and have it all working now. It's almost like Subaru said, "what is the hardest to find fuses, let's use those!" These low profile mini fuses are cheap on ebay should you want a small supply. Now you know where to wire them just be careful so you don't blow that fuse, or pull the fuse first, connect the wires, replace it and test to prevent fuse replacement (just keep in mind the map light LED's are unidirectional, so if backwards they won't light up). In any case, if you want ~$40 LED footwell lights/LED map lights (including two LED modules from Oznium $24, and two 6-LED map light bulbs $16 from Diode Dynamics, you will also need wire and connectors here and there), that come on with the door, then dim, then fade to black before you drive, and can also be switched on with a map light anytime, this is how you do it. I chose red led modules for the footwell lighting to match the interior dash lighting, but they also sell blue. I think this was a bit of a PITA, but now I know what to do it wouldn't take long to duplicate the process, probably easier than pulling the dash apart for the factory OEM kit wiring, and I like the function of this better (not lit all the time at night when driving, and these are switchable to turn on whenever I want them on). these footwell LED modules are brighter than the stock OEM kit, the Oznium modules are 6 LED's, but you can use any LED you want in the footwells, to be safe if you are tapping the map lights for footwell lighting I would put in LED map light bulbs to keep the current draw low. PS: Shout out to Oznium.com, American company, great communication, and hilarious owner: https://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15419

just have an independent mechanic do it for you (instead of the dealer, so no record of the upgraded bar) should you not want to do the work. Or offer someone here some beer. That would probably work also... I am not normally saying that aftermarket mods are safe for your warranty, but a slightly larger sway bar I doubt they will notice, and the only thing I think they could deny warranty work on if you install it would be the bar or endlinks. They are probably not going to attribute any other issue with the rear drivetrain to a larger sway bar.

As strange as it sounds, given how most people who think of themselves as excellent drivers really should never be on the roads, even with computer controlled cars subject to external manipulation (hacking), statistics will show that self-driving cars are a huge step forward in reducing accidents. The computer controlled uber cars will probably be electric, traffic efficiency will improve so travel times will be less (traffic lights may not even be needed so cars will "flow" through intersections not arbitrarily wait for periods of time). Batteries will be exchangeable so the cars will be circulating 24/7 and range won't be a factor, and parking lots, no need for huge parking lots at the Walmart anymore...you will just come out of the store and jump in whatever car someone else just arrived in... How people express themselves when they don't own the car? Probably another billion dollar business...Maybe hats?

Cars are marching toward being self-driven. Collision avoidance will be mandatory within a few years. Subaru probably has a head-start with their self-driving technology because Eyesight will probably be able to read street signs soon. Not sure how radar based systems will adapt, they probably need to add cameras until street signs stop being visual and start being self-broadcasted directions. Much self-flagellation will follow on all "enthusiast" car forums. PS: my step-son is in college, I already gave him the next billion dollar idea, within 15-20 years self-driving/uber cars will replace car ownership for a significant portion of suburbia (it will be cheaper and more convenient to pay only for what you use, with thousands of computer controlled/app controlled cars circulating and ready to pick you up as needed), and the next California-closet type blockbuster business will be the renovation and conversion of all those unused garages into living space... Sounds fantastical, until I realize when I was in college cellphones were not yet common (except the bricks and bricks hard wired into cars, both only in cities), laptops were not common (though a few of my friends had PC's), internet didn't exist yet, GPS was a military only option, I drove around in a car without abs/airbags, using paper maps... And I am only 50...20 years for that transformation is probably underestimating how quickly it will happen. My son loves to drive, I told him to enjoy it while he can, because I would bet within the next 20 years anyone wanting to continue driving will be priced out of the option via outrageous insurance premiums for anyone silly enough not to let the car do it for them. Urban areas will probably succumb to the lower cost of ride-sharing vs ownership, and then anyone wanting to drive into the mass of self-driven traffic will probably need to pay outrageous fees/permits/insurance in order to do so. Maybe rural areas will be safe for those owning red barchettas.

mine has shut off very briefly in bright sunlight once or twice, flickered on and off during a snow storm once, and once shut down during torrential rain (that was a prolonged outage, visibility was very bad).

Been answered multiple times, the default mode is on, it can be shut off temporarily which generates multiple annoying dash lights, there to remind you that you have disabled the safety systems integrated into the car. Those lights also come on, rarely, when the system disables itself (such as in very bright sunlight or torrential downpours). You cannot permanently disable the system, that is the answer. But you, or OP, or anyone else is free to ask their dealer or SOA how to do so. Expect them to tell you it is not possible, feel free to prove me wrong, but stop saying we haven't answered the question, how many times do we need to say the same thing, in multiple ways, before you believe the answer? Let's hear from another new person telling us we haven't answered the original question...just offered opinions... PS: EyeSight, not EyeSite, Subaru spells like a champ.

We did, there is no "safe" way to permanently disable Eyesight, which is integrated into the car he bought. He can ask the dealer to disable it, call SOA, or complain on this forum, but the answer is either get used to it (or the multiple warning lights when he disables is with the buttons below the dash), or trade for a car without it (not all 3.6 come with Eyesight, just most of them).

I use ACC all the time in city type traffic, works great. Occasionally if a car you are following is going to turn and you know the lane will clear ACC will activate warnings/braking because it thinks that car is still going to be in the lane when you get there, but overall it is entirely predictable and works amazingly well, and for me, lowers my blood pressure in traffic because I just sit back a bit and let the car do its thing. In any case, the dealer probably won't disable Eyesight for the OP, and probably won't tell you how to do it, and really, trading the car is a better option than messing with that system, but to each his own.

I wouldn't buy the Subaru fog light kit to begin with, if I didn't have a Limited that came with HID and OEM glass lens fogs, I would get and install these (or at least as a substitute for the Subaru version, buy their harness and switch, and the Morimoto fog lights): https://www.theretrofitsource.com/subaru-morimoto-xb-led.html If you do a low beam HID retrofit, you don't even need fogs, the HID output is up to the task. Are the fogs in that kit the base version (plastic lens) or the glass lens version?

Proper HID projectors do a much better job focusing light from HID bulbs, and the bi-xenon is a huge plus, the OEM HID projectors should have the bi-xenon function also, but they don't. Having done this retrofit, do you agree that you really don't need a dual projector set up for high beam visibility? My quandry with WRX retrofit and my current car is that the high beam halogen light color is yellowish, vs the 5500k pure white of the HID bulbs. However, as you move up the light color spectrum from Halogen temp 3000k up into HID temps 5000k+, light output actually diminishes, slightly, so I have decided in both cars to leave it as is.

My legacy has OEM HID low beams (using Morimoto 5500K bulbs) and OEM high beams (halogen bulbs). When I did the WRX I had the same thing, but used a Morimoto D2S projector with bi-xenon, 35 watt ballasts, and same bulbs (replacing the WRX OEM halogen low beam projector), along with OEM high beams (halogen). If you have a bi-xenon projector, you won't need anything extra for high beams, imho, because your HID projector will open up and the OEM high beams will also come on at the same time.

FWIW The Retrofit Source recommends 35 watt ballasts (not 55 watt) for HID low beams, and it is plenty of light. 55 watt will overdrive the bulbs, shortening their life, and probably not produce that much additional usable light (HID uses high voltage to produce the arc -- warm up takes a few seconds at least, then the voltage drops because it takes less voltage to maintain the arc -- less voltage but more light than a similar sized halogen bulb, for example). I did a similar retrofit on a WRX replacing halogen projectors with Morimoto D2S, it is really more of a process to open the headlights (drop bumper, remove headlights, open headlights, etc) than to swap out a projector, especially if you can find a mounting bracket (less dremel work and customized fitting involved). Also, there are a lot of expensive HID bulbs on the market, I have been really happy with my relatively cheap Morimoto bulbs. And the bi-xenon function is the best, when they open up with your highbeams it is daylight time at night.

The only people who are going to notice the difference between the 2018 and the current models are enthusiasts who frequent sites like this. Driving down the road most people are going to notice nothing special, maybe think it is a Camry or Hyundai, or not notice it at all. Let's see what they do for the complete redesign, guessing Direct Injection, major styling changes, etc. Assuming no mechanical/electrical/Eyesight warranty issues during my three year lease, I will probably keep it old school and keep what I have vs moving to the next gen. Maybe as a reward I will add the rear lip on the trunk...$100-150 plastic glued on, radically transform the looks... Coming up on 6 months and I am 1,000 miles under my lease mileage, so I may have ~30,000 on my 36,000 mile lease at the end, which makes it even easier to decide on keeping it, it will be just broken in (for a Subaru)

I bet we could find someone who complains about these seats:

I like the legacy seats also (Limited), and they are 1000% better than the premium WRX seats I left behind (those required lumbar support to be passable, so I added it). Seat comfort is pretty subject to personal interpretation, I guess you can please some of the people, all of the time, all of the people, some of the time, but never all of the people, all of the time. I venture the same subjective complaints can be found on every car forum, maybe some people even loved the WRX premium seats (zero lumbar support, no kidding).

I'm going to venture a guess that the black "grill" at the bottom of the bumper pops out and can be replaced with one that accommodates exhaust, i.e. a left and version with a hole, and a right version that comes solid, or with a hole for the 3.6.

I will probably buy out my 2017 Limited lease at the end unless there is some major change in the redesign (like Eyesight starts reading traffic signals), or if I have a major problem I experience within the next couple of years (so far, not a single thing has gone wrong with my car). I will be under, probably well under, the lease mileage. If they release a new model with a redesigned engine/etc I will probably still want to keep what I have and know is reliable. Gonna need more than LED headlights and different stereo to sway me.

Just gonna venture out on a limb and proclaim that when they say: LED steering responsive headlights That means if you buy a Limited or 3.6. Don't expect them to make that available on base or Premium trim levels. Just checked and on the redesigned 2017 Impreza the steering responsive LED lights are only on the Limited trim... Be nice if it is standard across the line, but not how Subaru usually rolls... I had to buy a Limited to get OEM HID in the 2.5 Legacy, which was one of my shopping requirements (HID or LED headlights from now on for me).