maxspeed3

Bunch of photos the the teardown! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Build Update: Finally was able to get a decent amount of work done on the teardown yesterday. Finishing up the semester at school the past two months has been really rough and not having any free time to drive to the cities to work on the car. Both heads are off of the car and came off fairly easy. There was some small sand like grit on the passenger side head and in the cam journals. They aren't scored too bad so hopefully they can be polished out and are still reusable. The cylinder bores look surprisingly really good! They still have a nice cross hatch and only minor scoring that should line hone out on cylinder number 4. For the new motor, I still cant decide which direction to go with it.. I found a basically brand new motor for sale with a new oem ej257 short block with a pair of d25 heads that been gone through and redone. It is also being sold with an sti oil pump, motor mounts, and a new timing belt kit and a few other extras. Buying a new shortblock from subaru is roughly $1800-2k depending on where its bough and with shipping. I'm really not sure how much machine work will cost on my current case halves and heads. I'd assume at least 1k at a bare minimum for everything, but could be more or it could be less. Sorry to be long winded with this post. I think currently the previous option for the motor is what im leaning towards for the car the most. It would allow for the car to be driveable in a much shorter time frame. I also found a guy very local to me selling a vf52 from his 2012 wrx with under 5k on it because his car got unfortunately totaled out. I think a stock rebuild with a vf52 and some other minor mods, downpipe, intake, tune, etc would make for a nice daily driver friendly setup and keep the old motor to rebuild overtime... Thats it for now, some photos of the project to follow this post. Most likely I will have the motor completely town down and the case halves split over the next day or so! Thanks all! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

That video was slick, only downside is I don't own a welder. Think heating the bolts with a map torch for a few seconds will help? I know heating for too long could cause damage to the cams, just wondering if you've done this in past experience.

Yea, I can't believe my impact wouldn't even move them... Its the 1/2" Klutch similar to this one (If I remember correctly its the 900ft/lbs reversing one - not sure if they even make it anymore). Any other bolt on the car it could remove with out even phasing it. Even the crusty and rusty exhaust heat shield, and manifold to head exhaust bolts. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200649175_200649175 It could even remove 1-1/2" diameter lug lugs off of my Deuce and a half I had a couple years ago without a problem. I wonder if it can't reach peak torque because of the 10mm allen heads on the bolt?

Yea, I probably should of done that myself, live and learn I guess... Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Hmm, I'll look into that, bolts are pretty cheap like 7$ at the dealer. Thanks! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Also I took another look at the oil pickup tube (found out it was a killer B) there was a bunch of bearing coating and material on the screen. I seriously think that it saved the top end of the motor from more damage. Ill post a photo of the chunks later on! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Only tried drilling drilling 1 of them so far, while preserving the hex portion on the bolt. One of the exhaust gear bolts finally came out, so 3 are still on the motor. If I do continue to drill I'd only be drilling just enough to relieve the stress on the head of the bolt, not all the way into the treads on it. The cams shouldn't be harmed Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Finally tearing into the motor! Exhaust manifold is off (had to cutoff wheel all of the heatshield bolts-gotta love Minnesota rust) [emoji35] , uppipe, timing components are off. The cam gears are a real pain in the a**. Bought the company 23 tools and they're not budging with a breaker bar or even an impact gun. Read on nosaic that most people just drill the heads off the bolts to relieve the stress and they pretty much fall out. Will give it a try. Cams look really good so far so hopefully the cam journals will be intact also and not any bearing material inside the heads.

Finally had some time to wrench on the motor for the lgt. Being it's winter in Minnesota and like 6 degrees out, didnt last too long outside in the unheated garage. Hit a road block now....The crank pulley bolt is not budging at all. Ive tried heating it with my map torch, hitting it with my impact , and my 24 inch breaker bar and still wont budge. Looks like its time for the grimmspeed crank pulley removal tool....On the plus side grimmspeed is very local to me, so I wont have to wait for shipping! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Whats your opinion on trying to have 400awhp to 450awhp with the blast plates? Think the trani will nuke? Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Ive read awesome things about them too! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Another question for all of you that I keep finding conflicting information on.... What is the torque limit of the 5 speed in the 05 lgt? I've seen threads of guys running 400awhp without issues and have read about guys nuking gears at stock power. I'm assuming its on all how you drive the car, launching it etc. Knowing the 5speed lgt trani shares similar thicker gears as the 04-06 sti, I do plan to autox and possibly road course the car once it's running again and the power goal im shooting for is around 400awhp to possibly 450awhp. Is that seriously playing with borrowed time or is it safe to say as long as I don't drive it like an asshat, ie launching it all the time the trani won't nuke? Just trying to get some insite since the build is coming near a decision point on what direction to go for power. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Most likely going to do an invidia catless downpipe and an invidia catless up pipe, since the cats in the up pipes are known for nuking and taking turbos with them. Ive got an invidia catless on my sti currently and it is fantastic. Excellent build quality and sounds really nice! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Ill take a look at your photos! Yea I probably did take too much off while the motor was in the car, but it did make a ton of room to pull the motor [emoji12] Either way it all has to come appart in the end. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Hey all! Finally made some awesome progress this weekend on the lgt! The motor is offically out of the car and on the stand! For the current diagnosis of why it was knocking is a spun rod bearing on cylinder #3. With any luck that is the only thing that is wrong. Uploading a few images from the phone so we'll see if they upload or not. More photos to follow! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/c3fef7e83ef08e9be2e6d1cd9500e8db.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/270c2ff56a334b58714a436acdd6ce8b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/8b76483debb7e52a1b8823de0e656964.jpg Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Hey man, Sorry no updates as of now, I haven't been down to the cities for 2 months because school has been crazy busy. I am planning on heading down veterans day weekend so I'll have an update in the next couple of weeks. Good luck with your build! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Yea I left the ac and power steering pumps connected and slung them aside. Sent while redlining all of the gears

This will be the first Subaru motor I've built from the ground up, but I have helped/ built mzr motors from mazdaspeeds. Thanks for the input on the factory service manual. As far as pulling the motor. I wanted to take the accessories off to make room to pull it, but I guess I didn't really need to is what you're saying. Sent while redlining all of the gears

Thanks for the input! Sent while redlining all of the gears

Hey All! Been doing a lot of research the last few weeks on what direction to go with the motor build and turbo upgrade. After looking at other members builds, I'm leaning towards around a 400hp/400tq setup for an autox and road course machine. After reading a few threads (correct me if I'm wrong) but the 05' LGT shares very similar transmission gears as the 04'-06' STi. Is it safe to assume that the transmission could handle 400tq without munching itself? Say adding the moore performance blast plates as a preventative measure. I don't plan to launch the car but as mentioned above I plan to autox and road course the car. Just seeing many threads of people running over 400hp on a stock transmission without and modifications (besides transmission mounts). Just looking for someones input with running a similar setup. For the guts of the motor build I'm looking into the following: New OEM 2.5 Forged Crank Weisco Pistons Manley Rods New ACL Crank / Rod Bearings ARP Head Studs ~ Would ARP Case Half Bolts be needed for a 400hp setup or would new OEM work? New Gaskets, Oil pump, etc... Tumbler deletes? Is it really necessary? The plan with the motor is to "overbuild" it slightly to allow for some future growth, ex safe to handle 450hp/450tq. Clutch: Still Researching this.... ACT, Spec, South bend... Brakes: Stainless Lines Hawk Hp plus pads StopTech Rotors, Or Brembo Rotors Fueling: E85 Top Feed Fuel Rail Conversion FIC 1100 CC Injectors Either AEM 320lp or DW65c Fuel Pump Turbo: This is another part of not sure which direction to go....As of now I plan to stay stock location, and no go rotated. I read a lot into the SteamSpeed STX-71. Seems to be a very nice upgrade and from what I've read other members are happy with it. It appears that with proper modifications, tune, fueling etc, 400hp is very attainable with this turbo. The BNR-20G is also very tempting. I know a lot of people in the Mazdaspeed community running the BNR S4 turbo and they like it a lot. ~ Had an 07' speed3 prior to the sti. Such a derpy, fun car, but fail wheel drive.. Another turbo that is interesting is the Garret gt3082. A good friend of mine mentioned this turbo as a nice median between a gt3071 and a gt35r. More research on this one as far as going rotated or if it would fit stock location. As of now this is the direction I hope to go towards. There still is a lot of stuff to research, but I thought I'd post a little update.

Definitely will make sure. I'll have to find some new hard lines that cross under the intake manifold, the current ones are pretty rusty. Sent while redlining all of the gears

Yea I pulled the tgvs, fuel rail, and intake manifold as one piece. Sent while redlining all of the gears

Hey all! Made some decent progress on the lgt disassembly over the past few days! Good news is the oil and coolant were still seperate, so no holes in the block! Currently have the intake manifold, tgvs, fuel rails, wiring harness and all of the other accessories off of the motor (ac compressor, etc.) All that is really left to remove is the downpipe off of the turbo and hook the engine to the hoist and pull the pitch stop and motor mounts and it should be out! Also the turbo doesnt have any shaft play in any direction and the car has B25 heads. I also pulled the drivers side timing belt cover and the belt is still good and tight and not broken so thats a plus too....So at this point I'm still pretty sure at this point the motor has a spun bearing, not sure what cylinder but time will tell I guess... On a side note, adding a few photos of the progress from the phone so hopefully they will work! Sent while redlining all of the gears

Thanks for the info! What is your opinion on that wrx motor? Think it would be a good idea to go that route or build the 08 short block with the lgt heads and sell the lgt short block. Sent while redlining all of the gears