Brisvegas

Yep was sitting in it the whole time. My wife can’t believe how long it takes me either. Maybe I’d be better off without these modern 10-12 way adjustments lol. I’m sure eventually the computers in the car will know how to make the seat perfect for whomever is sitting in the drivers seat.

All jokes aside, I do think it is important to get the seating position right ... especially on a trip.

I found this clip helpful ....

Ugh I seriously wouldn’t have had it fixed if I knew I’d lose the seating position and seat memory. I just spent 30 minutes trying to find a comfortable driving position again with no luck.

C'mon captain Kirk are you kidding?..... surely it's not too hard to find a comfortable driving position .... have you tried actually sitting in the seat when you are adjusting it

Washed her after being covered in snow, ice, and salt /QUOTE]

 

Washed mine as well, but unlike you ... I had to wait until about 6pm when the heat eased off a bit ... otherwise it probably would have "sizzled" like a hot plate when I wet it

 

I see where you guys are freezing at the moment, and apparenltly even expecting snow down south. On the other hand we here in Oz are baking ....it's hot ... damn hot!!! 116°F in some places .... where I am it was "only" 93°F

you might get a third of the fluid... with a drain and fill. I have seen dudes on YT use the internal pump to change out the fluid on a CVT...but when you are done you will need to make sure it is at the right level by removing the fill plug when it is up to operating temp (Subaru has a procedure for that) removing the pan does not get but a tiny amount more that is in the pan... on a CVT you do not need to remove the pan...

Thanks for that

I'm still kinda hanging out for an answer to my basic question, so I'll try asking once more before I stop boring y'all I'd basically like to know at what point (if any) is it a waste of time draining and filling. For example, if the drain and fill method replaces 100% of the fluid (which I know it doesn't) then you have a perfect result. 75% percentage replacemnet would still be great (but again not going to happen in the real world) .... I assume 50 % would still be a good result ...... what about 35% or 25% (or maybe less) ...... so is there a cut off point where you would say it's not worth it .... or do you all subscribe to the theory that it can't hurt and any introduced new fluid is a help.

Also how much more fluid is drained by dropping the pan.

I have followed the drain and fill every 30K on my 03 Subaru and it runs just fine with 130K on it. next drain and fill will be in the spring and that is when I will drop the pan and change the filter as well. /QUOTE]

 

Thanks for that. I assume from your informative reply that you are happy with the amount of new fluid that is delivered by the drain and fill method .... because that was the main point of my original post. I'd basically like to know at what point (if any) is it a waste of time draining and filling. For example, if the drain and fill method replaces 100% of the fluid (which I know it doesn't) then you have a perfect result. 75% percentage replacemnet would still be great (but again not going to happen in the real world) .... I assume 50 % would still be a good result ...... what about 35% or 25% (or maybe less) ...... so is there a cut off point where you would say it's not worth it .... or do you subscribe to the theory that it can't hurt and any introduced new fluid is a help.

 

Also in your reply you mentioned dropping the pan. Can you elaborate on that. How much more fluid is drained by doing that extra step.

I also found this: https://www.twincitysubaru.com/service/maintenance-schedule.htm

There the CVT flush is listed at US$309.95 plus tax. Should be similar regardless of where in the world you are.

Interesting that the dealer you referenced recommends a flush. My dealer is one of those believers that preach that the CVT is a sealed unit and doesn't need maintenance ( other than the scheduled inspections.)

I did a little bit of Googling and came up with this supposedly "transmission expert" who states ......

"For a manual or CVT transmission a basic drain and fill is all that is required"

https://www.thompsonimportrepair.com/transmission-fluid-flushes/

So it looks like there might be not only disagreement about whether the CVT fluid should be changed at all, but also as to whether a drain and fill or a flush, is the way to go

I'm not wanting to discuss whether a fluid change should be done on the CVT or not, because that has been done to death already. My question is specifically related to the benefits (if any) of doing a fluid change (as against a "flush") if the result is only plus or minus 50% (or less) of the "old" fluid is removed and replaced by the "new."

I know some of the replies might be that the procedure could be repeated several times to achieve a higher "fluid changeover" figure, but I'm not sure that the high cost of the CVT fluid would justify the multiple changes. Maybe for the DIYer's on the forum then that would lower the financial burden, but for the average joe (me included) who goes to the dealer for most services, I don't really see the value in a fluid change if, as some reports I have read, as little as 1/3rd of the fluid is all that is replaced.

I am an admitted skeptic of the "never needs changing" mantra, but I'm not convinced that a "relatively small" addition of "new fluid" is going to make a heap of difference to the health of my CVT. I welcome other opinions.

Here's an interesting article about automatic transmissions on a dyno.

http://www.airboytuning.com/archives/138

For those (including myself) who don't know too much about dyno's, I came across this clip that I found interesting and informative.

Last Car Show for the year was Honored to Win Best Subaru Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well done mate, it's always good to see your show results

Is it necessary to change the differential fluid to prolong the life of the front and rear differential, or is it an unnecessary expense?

"YES" and "NO"

The US recommendation is only inspection of the fluid and every 30 months or 30,000 miles. Mine hasn't been changed or inspected at this point (35,000 miles). Personally, I'll probably check mine out around 50,000 miles and if it looks good let it go closer to 100,000 miles.

I don't get the variences in maintenance between USA and here. I know local climatic conditions could theoretically be one of the reasons for the differences ... but like you guys, we are a big country with different climatic conditions in the various states. We have the colder states, and snow, and the moderate regions and also the tropical states just like you guys .... so how does that make the service procedures dramatically different? I just had my 24 month service and according to the service manual the diff fluids were "R" (replacement) and not 'I" (inspection).

So Subaru Australia tell me I must get my diff fluids changed at 24 months (or 31,000 miles) but you can apparently safely leave it for 100,000 miles?

I just don't get it

Was that the first time you had changed it? How did the fluid look? Was there a lot of shavings on the drain plug?

Keep in mind that fluid change in diffs is a normal part of Subaru 24 month service, so yours would have been changed at the dealer.

stomp on the throttle from a dead stop and you will notice that rubber band immediately

I believe you ..... but I don't think I'll try it

I have found that gently rolling into the throttle alleviates a significant amount of the lurching or jerk with the CVT engagement (aka rubber band effect). also the car will drive differently depending upon engine operating temp... cold = high revs for the same speed.

I am a pretty conservative driver in regards to the throttle. I take off at the lights as you appear to do ...... I would call it "normally' as against "gently" ..... unless there is some imminent disaster approaching, I don't ever see the need to be the first car away from a dead stop ...... I keep up with the traffic without the need to be the "leader." As a result .... I have never felt the "rubber band" and like a previous poster BobbyR wrote " .. it actually feels almost like a regular automatic transmission complete with apparent shift points. Not sure I'd even know it was a CVT if I wasn't told ..." maybe one day I'll turn my baseball cap around backwards and turn up the stereo 10 more notches, and drive like a maniac for a day, and see if I can experience this rubber band effect.

I'm not the guy that posted that and I know nothing about the laws here or anywhere else. But...

 

We as drivers look at this as if my speedo says I'm doing 50 and I'm really doing 60 (understated), that's bad. I could get a ticket.

 

However, when looking at laws, they think differently. If you're speedo says' you're doing 60 and you're really doing 50 (overstating), that means that your odometer is also overstating. And that means that instead of your warranty being 36,000 miles your warranty is now only 30,000 real miles. Or, if it's a 36,000 mile lease, you get cheated out of 6,000 miles. To a lawmaker, that's bad.

That's a very interesting comment. Despite my recent research on speedometers themselves, I had not considered the point you have raised. After reading your post I have consulted Doctor Google and it seems the answer is not the same for all vehicles. The first link below appears to support your comments 100% .... but the others following, seem to indicate that there are exceptions to your theory.

http://pugetsoundblogs.com/roadwarrior/2006/02/15/are-vehicle-odometers-accurate/

https://www.quora.com/Does-the-speedometer-and-odometer-work-in-tandem

And finally, this last website contains the following paragraph ...

" .. The odometer, which directly reflects what the sensors are recording, doesn't have the same built-in inaccuracy as the speedometer. If your speedometer is off, it doesn't necessarily follow that the odometer is inaccurate too ..."

https://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commuting/why-you-may-not-be-driving-as-fast-as-you-think/article11487709/

Thanks for the post, I'd be interested in what others on the forum think.

car speedo relies on a sensor that counts rotations of the output shaft. By law in most countries, they cannot over state your speed.

 

The speedo in every car is mass produced and none outside of law enforcement are calibrated so there will be some small variance between all of them.

 

the reason the error increases as you go faster has to do with the speed being a larger number. think of it this way

 

if you have a 2.5% of error at 0 it is 0. at 10 is it 10.25. at 20 it is 20.5 etc.. and at 100 it would be 102.5

Thanks for the reply. In your first sentence above you say "By law in most countries, they cannot over state your speed. Unless I am misreading what you are saying, my understanding is that in law most countries state that speedos can overstate actual speeds but not UNDERSTATE. I believe that here in Australia we follow the Euoropean standard of allowing a maximum speedo tolerance of 4% plus 2 kms ABOVE the actual vehicle speed, but speedos cannot show UNDER the vehicles actual speed.

Thanks also for your explanation on the error increase expressed as a percentage ..... but I still am unsure why my speedo starts to be "innacurate" only at 90 kms and not at any speed from 0 to 90. Going by what you are saying, shouldn't the error incrementally increase from zero??

the speedo is off by about 8 mph at that speed (ie it is overstating your speed)

 

at 70 it is off by 2, 80 it is off by 3 (verify with GPS if you like, I have).

Mine is similar to yours, except mine UNDERSTATES the speed.

Mine is exact speed (compared with GPS) up until approx 95 kph, then it's understated by 2, then at 100kph it's understated by 3, then at 110kph it's understated by 4. The car is booked into the dealer this week to try and remedy the understating under warranty. I am ok with overstating the speed, because that is the norm with newer cars ... but understating is an annoyance that can lead to traffic tickets.

I'd be grateful if someone smarter than me on the forum could explain why speedo disparity only start at a certain speed, and why do the differences increase incrementally as the vehicle speed increases.

I'll have her til she dies

Hi GL, I've viewed your posts over a long time, and I may be wrong, but I can't recall where you have been too critical of your vehicle. Maybe due to the various steering mods you have done, you have overcome the sort of complaints that some owners on the forum have of the Legacy's handling ..... or maybe you didn't have too many complaints to begin with, and all your steering mods were just "hobby related." The reason I ask is because of your comment "I'll have her til she dies" and I would like to hear if you make that statement just because you have "modded" your car to the level to enable you to say that .... or would you have still said that if you had left it as stock standard. I ask this as a satisfied 3.6 owner "non modder" who often thinks about also making mine "a lifer." I could afford a new vehicle in a couple of years, but I sometimes wonder why bother if the current one has everything I want.

I'd be interested in your thoughts.

So I tried it and for the most part it worked. First couple requests got me radio stations. Then I said "Play composer Steely Dan". I got Stephen Tyler lol (slightly different). Then I tried the genre stuff and told it to play genre blues and bigger than heck it went to my USB and sorted out blues tracks and off we went. Might be a useful I think...

The answer is so simple.

Just say ... "Blues" then "BB King" then never change anything ever again

http://www.hydrosilex.com

Thanks ... looks interesting; providing it does the job ..... I'll research this product. For some reason I couldn't view the link you provided, but I came across this one (hopefully it's not the same as yours)

Likewise, I can say "play Blues" and it plays all songs with Blues as Genre (might want to say genre blues).Now I need to add some Beatles...

NO !!!!! Forget the bloody Beatles, just add MORE BLUES

Today, while standing still in traffic waiting to make a left hand turn, I was amazed how the car seemed buffeted by cars passing by,

I gotta say that I find this hard to believe.

One problem is that the line colors and styles differs between countries.

 

The US has yellow center lines and white side lines, Sweden has all white lines except in construction zones where there are yellow lines. Norway has similar lines as the US has... So the system has to work well with most styles and also disregard certain lines to avoid nasty surprises.

During my conversation with Subaru Australia I actually mentioned that the line in question was yellow, and they said the color should not be a problem and that Eyesight would operate regardless of colors. They did mention the usual things that are listed in the manual that could cause problems, but line colors was not amongst these.

There is a yellow painted road line all along by the center wall....it is about 6-8 inches from the wall.......... apparently eyesight could not see it:eek:

When I did the test drive the wheel/tire was about 1/2 way between the line and the wall....as I said almost scraping the wall....no response from Eyesight or Lane assist at all

I can see your point now that you have included that photo ... I didn't pick up the part about the yellow line in your earlier post. I made a call to Subaru Australia just now, and mentioned your post to them. Their reply was that "Lane Departure Assist" should have picked up that yellow line, and they suggest that you take it up with your dealer because there may be a fault with your Eyesight. They said that the Japanese made Subaru's cars supplied to us here in Australia are designed to pick up the lines that you are talking about, and they assume the US built vehicles should also do that .... so that's why they are recommending you take it up with the dealer .