nads

I get a squeak from the passenger seat when someone sits in it.

I get this too and that F&%$ing sun glass holder rattles like hell.

More cores can help and hinder by blocking air flow through the fins, typically that's 3 and 4 row stuff.

Have you pressure washed (or just washed out) the radiator fins? My friends Dodge 2500 Cummins was overheating and thats what made it go away. Airflow is key. I'd drop the skid plate and see if it allow more flow out the bottom.

How much does your skid plate block off? Your engine bay is a low pressure zone when in motion, as air enters the nose/hood scoop it need a place to exhaust the convection cooling of the radiator, engine, condenser, etc. It has to exit at another low pressure zone, so under the car or out the cowl at the windshield.

Are your fans kicking on?

I also have a clunk on my koni + 13/14 spring combo. it was also there with koni/rce and koni/eibach. I tried new top hats but it was still there. it was much worse in cold weather below 40, which is about 7 months of the year in Minnesota. I took them off and put on a fully assembled set of 13/14 oem struts and springs and the noise went away.

 

during one of my spring swaps, I checked to make the inserts were bottomed out in the donors and they were. no idea where the damn noise was coming from. frustrating

 

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My fix this morning wouldn't work. Damn Spotify wouldn't connect on my Pioneer deck so I could crank some Falco.

Been down the chasing mystery noises path on other cars. At this point unless something falls off, becomes something I can identify or increasing audible I'm ignoring it. Mine is quiet until I drive on a washboard type road, then it's clap clap clap. My fix, I stoped driving on that road.

Im new to The Forum but have owned a 2014 2.5 and now a 2012 3.6 for a few years now.... I just now wanted to start modding it a little bit. I started with the Takeda intake which lasted about a week because I didn't really notice much of a difference and it just seemed way too loud. I still have it but not sure if I want to try again or just sell it

Sell it. Not worth the noise and/or hassle to tune.

Best 3.6r mods for the money to make good gains are in this order:

-Basic maintenance

-Suspension: 26mm Front bar, 13-14 Springs and dampers, Whileline 22m rear bar as a basic daily package, go wild from there.

-Tune

-Raptor Headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune

-Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune

-Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe, cat back and a Tune

-Custom build spending a ton of cash to have a hot 3.6r.

See XRT for a tune.

I’ve got a couple setup questions. I’ve got a 2012 Outback with 85000 miles on it that I’d really like to bring down to stock legacy height when I replace the struts this spring. Here’s what I’m thinking I need to be able to drop the old and install the new, please correct me if I’m wrong:

2010-2014 Legacy OE front struts

2013-14 Legacy/Outback front Springs

KYB or whiteline strut tops

 

koni 8610-1055 rear struts

2013-14 Outback rear Springs

KYB strut tops

 

 

First question... I’m still looking for stock 2010-12 Legacy front struts correct? As I understand it the spring perch is a little lower and/or the lower mount is lower which is where the drop comes from, and it should still clear my stock outback tires... yes?

 

Second, at this point which Koni front inserts am I looking for? 1553’s or 1447’s?

 

Third, Springs. As I understand it, 2013+ front and rear springs are stiffer correct? Going by the part numbers (I don’t have them in front of me at the moment) Legacy and outback springs are the same year for year but I’d want the later springs if I wanted a stiffer setup yes?

 

Fourth - alignments. Do I need the rear Legacy LCA? What about the whiteline front strut mounts?

You should start a new thread but I think there is more to it as I think the Outbacks lift comes from more than the struts and springs. Like dropped subframes and different suspension arms.

Brake boosters can cause a vacuum leaks too. Just went through this with my dad's efi 5.0 swap in to an 82' GT. We replaced everything from the ECU to any and everything that can effect the idle. We'd think we got it and it would come back. The other day he drove up and I was standing outside and as soon as he hit the brakes the idle would surge, let of the brake and it would smooth out. Bad Booster.

Got the 26mm bushing yesterday. Hopefully will install them over Christmas shutdown.

Nads, GTeaser, whoever else, with the larger 26mm FSB. The custom bushings are up https://m.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Front-Sway-Bar-Performance-Bushing-26mm-2012-2014-Legacy-Outback/173012129198?hash=item28485395ae:g:jQ4AAOSwRbtaIwDB

Bought.

Merry Christmas to me.

Thanks!!!

So I am about to add Raptor Headers to my 3.6R. I wanted to make a custom catless Y-pipe, but after asking numerous shops I got pricing estimates of $300 to $500 to have a custom Y-pipe made in Stainless Steel. I figured there had to be a less expensive approach.

 

I came across a Catless Y-pipe from Megan Racing for the Nissan 350Z. It cost me $160 shipped. I bolted headers to see what kind of modifications were needed. The Y-pipe needed to be narrowed about 4 inches. So we cut out ~2" from each runner and I had it rewelded. Am going to attempt install on Thursday. Sometimes we have to get creative to get parts for the 3.6R and I feel this is one of those times.

Nice work. What is the pipe O.D.? Could you take some finished dimensions, like width between pipes, over all length, etc? Did the collector flanges on the head line up with Y-pipe?

Can't wait to see it installed!

Some minor updates. My rear differential was replaced under warranty. Never said why it was failing. I guess they send parts away to be inspected? Much better now. Car is no longer whining Also waiting for a boost tester to check intake for leaks. Once I confirm all is well, planning on testing Boostane for bringing the car up to 99 octane from 93. Only needs about 1/4 of a 32oz Boostane Professional bottle for a full tank.

 

I've got a package of VLED's coming, I'll update when I install them.

 

 

 

Guess what my buddy made. Already tested on a 2013 3.6R Outback. Also is gonna be sending me some 20mm ones for the rear. Will install on a warmer winter day here.

Very nice indeed!

So what does your buddy need to get me a set?

Since I now have a 22mm rear bar, I'm thinking this is the next weak link (for me anyway). I bought a universal set of 26mm busing and mounts from Prothane, but haven't had a chance to R&D them in yet. I know about the hump under the factory bushing and had a few ideas to get around that but a drop in bushing would be easier by far. Dare I request a group buy?

TRS is having its usual Black Friday sale.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/

The car did get rear-ended on Friday, but that's a different story.

Just when you think you're out of the woods....

CVT offers improved gas mileage over traditional auto, and less expensive than a 7 or 8 speed auto. And better than a manual too. Efficiency is driving drivetrain design until more efficient power can be made.

Agreed, and also form a green house gas stand point not having the transience associated with rpm fluctuation from shifting helps with control of emissions in a huge way. But, every efficient power transmission device I've seen is also weak, but that's what makes them efficient, they are at their threshold. On paper CVT sounds great, in application it has not been reliable, even in non-performance applications.

For oil consumption, have you checked or replaced the PCV valve?

Did it increase with the tune?

Like I told the guy who bought my MS6, if you want stock reliability, keep it stock. Modifying comes with a trade off.

Can the tensioner cause these kind of issues?

Yes. If the pump slows down via belt slip then your going to loose pressure and that will make the rack do what you see it doing, that and air in the system. I say your post on the other noise, I think you need to bleed the system more. Are you bleeding it with the cap off? There is only one place for air to escape and that's out the reservoir.

Also, as FLlegacy pointed out, worn out suspension components put undue stress on the system. So check it all out.