SFerrell

Man do these look good in red! Want to trade for my black 5EAT?

I have the same GrimSpeed pulley, but in blue. With my car being the 5EAT do you think I will need the tool for removal? I know the older autos had a service panel in the rear small enough to fit a screwdriver in to lock the trans.

That's PB blaster, damn northern cars are so rusty! I replaced the cam seals and crank seal when I did the timing belt.

 

As for the plastics being chewed up, that's actually because the crank pulley failed on the previous owner. AC belt slipped off and chewed up the timing cover and destroyed the AC compressor plug.

 

 

You would think Subaru engineers would consider this while developing the part. I mean, with the likelihood of the crank failing and causing catastrophic and potentially dangerous events. Sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen. It should be a recall or a service bulletin at the very least.

I've been eyeballing one piece lightweight crank pulleys since I did the timing belt on the Forester and saw how heavy stocker is. Plus they tend to separate and cause some destruction.

 

List of aftermarket pulleys and information: Crank Pulley List (Price, Weight, Part #'s)

 

I went with GrimmSpeed due to the heavier weight, it doesn't cause CEL's like others might when you use it with a lightweight flywheel. Plus Grimmspeed has timing mark and sells a kit for 08+ stretch belts (that I might convert to).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0585.jpg

 

For those that are curious, GrimmSpeed says the pulley has timing marks, they mean mark. It took me 5 minutes to find that single mark...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0589.jpg

 

I was under the impression that the pulley would be 2.6lbs, it feels heavy and is a very high quality piece, to my surprise it came out to be 2.05lbs.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CrankPulleyWeight-GrimmSpeed.jpg~original

 

Stock Pulley weighs a hefty 5.65lbs

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CrankPulleyWeight-LGTStock.jpg

 

GrimmSpeed vs Stock pulley

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0607.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0608.jpg

 

 

Start removing all of the parts in the way, I was able to do it with the intake and rad fans in place.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0593.jpg

 

Undo the lock bolt then unscrew the alternator tightening bolt, you will have to push the alternator down to remove the belt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0594.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0596.jpg

 

Same deal for AC, undo the idler pulley bolt, that will allow it to freely travel, then unscrew the AC belt tightener.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0597.jpg

 

After the belts are off get a 22mm socket and a breaker bar. Make sure your handbreak is tight and put the car in 5th gear. Use the breaker bar to loosen the bolt, then remove it.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0601.jpg

 

I used a big screw driver to slowly wiggle the crank pulley off

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0603.jpg

 

Notice the circular cut in my timing belt cover, also notice the glue on the AC plug. Looks like this car suffered from the crank pulley falling apart previously...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0604.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0606.jpg

 

Install the new pulley, make sure it goes on the tooth correctly before you begin to tighten it

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0610.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0613.jpg

 

Torque it to 95ft-lbs

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0614.jpg

 

Reinstall the belts, make sure they are aligned on the crank pulley properly before tightening them or you will shred the belts. Then properly tighten them or they will squeak.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0616.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG0617.jpg

 

 

Gains

 

Now the moment of truth, you're $115 in and how much power does it gain you?

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CrankPulleyStockvsGrimmSpeed.jpg

 

Sadly loosing 3.6lbs from parasitic mass gained no power (in 2nd gear), at least GrimmSpeed didn't promise/advertise power gains. Usually lightweight and underdriving pulleys will gain you 5whp or so, guess all the power gain comes from underdriving and not from being lightweight.

 

I will say the motor did rev up smoother with the new pulley, I'm driving the car around right now to see if city MPG improves any.

 

At this point I would say only go lightweight if your current pulley falls apart and you need a new one anyway. My opinion may change once I drive the car in a spirited fashion after the MPG test.

 

Update 04-25-14: After driving for a while, it does seem like this pulley help improve my low end torque and the car likes being in 4th at 30mph a lot more. MPG gain/loss has been neglectable though.

 

Just a thought, I noticed the part of the timing cover that got chewed up appears to be oil soaked. I'm guessing that you have or had a cam seal fail at some point or some PB Blaster was spilled in that area. It can cause the plastic of the timing cover to swell and make contact with the pulley. I had the exact same thing happen with my SVX and I thought the cause was a failing thrust bearing. Turns out Subaru timing covers don't get along well with motor oil.

When are you going to get rid of that plastic intercooler? Mine had a pretty major leak and was causing me to hit 1-2 psi less than my target. I found a used Avo for $200 off of Ebay and let me tell you, it definitely helped out quite a bit with my high end acceleration. I might be crazy but I swear my throttle response is better now. I did the Mishimoto turbo inlet at the same time. And my intake temps actually lowered significantly. Based on an 82 degree day, going the same route I was showing an intake temperature drop of 20-22 degrees. And I haven't even screwed with the splitter yet.

Finally got tired of the fogged headlights, I buffed them out with an electric buffer and compound last year but that didn't last at all. Figured I would try out the $8 Turtle Wax polishing and refinish kit that's sold at Walmart.

 

Passenger headlight was the worst:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162307.jpg~original

 

I didn't grab any pictures of the process, but it's really straight forward, just follow the directions on the box...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084422.jpg~original

 

 

Before:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162258.jpg~original

 

After:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084458.jpg~original

 

It's surprising by how much newer the car starts looking by having nice and clean headlights. Hopefully this kit lasts a while and keeps them looking this way for a while

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084345.jpg~original

Mine looks like it sat at the bottom of Lake Erie when I got mad halfway though the build thread and pushed it in.

 

I been wanted to move to the south!

 

I have to be honest, that is the worst I have seen on a 05! If it was me I would be either replacing everything in that pic, or sandblasting and repainting everything in that pic. You sure it was Lake Eerie and not Salt Lake? I see your end links are furked. I will be doing a post on the Moog replacements. Start spraying that s#!t with PB Blaster and hit that pinch bolt with an impact if you have it. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen and if your lucky they will zing right off. Otherwise a cobalt 3/8 drill bit will do the trick. You'll take the threads out of the knuckle, but a bolt, washer, washer, lock washer, and nut will serve the same purpose. Spray and pray my friend!

 

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/6DCDD4EA-1091-4050-BD76-17EFBB3D3CA4_zpsjuovdpcb.jpg

All I had to do was unbolt the control arm from the body in 2 places, swing it left, beat the control arm down with a mallet, swing right, beat it down with a mallet. Took me 10 minutes.

 

Edit: after loosening the pinch bolt of course. That took a little more work.

 

Your car wasn't continuously sprayed with calcium chloride road salt for 5 months out of the year in a Chicago suburb.

Has anyone used this? Just trying to figure out what would make my life easier since it's all looking bad.

 

http://www.company23.com/subarutools/532

 

I've never tried it before. That seems like quite a bit of money for what it is. Curious if it makes removal significantly easier. I had to take an air hammer to the lower control arm to get my ball joint out. Passenger side ball joint had to be cut with a grinder wheel before I could get it out. It's by far the hardest part of the job.

Now crank that b!+ch up to 20 psi!! I found out 4 months after I bought my Legacy why the restrictor pill is so important! I hit 22 psi unexpectedly and almost pissed my pants. It's funny how just a few psi make such a difference. Too bad my engine would eat itself if I kept that up for long. How do you feel about that Avo380 turbo? It sounds about perfect to me.

Good to hear, hopefully mine goes semi ok. Sway bar end links came off and back on better with wheel under load or hanging freely?

 

I had the car on jack stands and put a bottle jack right under the balljoint castle nut on the lower control arm. Otherwise the endlink is under too much tension and it can pull the threads right out of the endlink mounting bolt. I have crossthreaded these in the past with no load on the suspension. With the bottle jack you can level everything out before you tighten your hardware down. Same goes for any suspension component. Otherwise you can cause premature wear and component failure. Remember, PB Blaster is your friend, but keep it off of any rubber you don't want to melt. I also use Anti-Seize. Keeps hardware from corroding and allows for an easy disassembly. Good Luck!

And thanks again covertrussian!

SFerrell recently installed the ones he bought from me

 

 

They were very easy to install. I cleaned out the hub ball joint knuckle with a steel brush, some 400 grit sandpaper, and some brake cleaner. A little synthetic grease and 2-3 taps with a dead blow mallet and the ball joint seated. The machining is pretty nice, bushings are stiffer than stock, and the rear bushing isn't the split design like the oem. I took pictures and was planning on posting my install, but my micro sd card committed suicide. Only time will tell how well they wear, but I have no doubts. Oh!.. and if anyone was wondering, I did take measurements on the set I installed and they were very close to the factory control arms. As long as you clean up any corrosion and make everything relatively clean, then these should be an easy install for you as well. If nothing else you are removing the weakest link in our suspensions and getting rid of some slop and added weight in the process. Also, the passenger side pinch bolt broke on me like most people, but the driver side did not. I soaked the driver side down with PB Blaster once a day for three days and it zinged right off with an impact. These control arms did come with replacement pinch bolts. I drilled out the broken bolt and replaced with a grade 8 bolt, two washers, a lock washer, and a nut. Screw oem! Dear Subaru Engineers, If you are reading this, lick me where I $#!t! That is all.

I concur, I refer people to it all the time.

 

I agree as well.

Hello there,

 

This quick writeup is hopefully going to help those who are unfamiliar with their engine bay help find and fix the more simple vacuum and pressure/boost leaks most common with these cars.

 

These pictures will be used as a loose reference for those searching to see a physical picture of what is described by most members that could be causes of leaks and struggles.

 

Intake/Vac leaks are one of the biggest headaches when tuning so the opportunity to go through the engine bay and check things out is always a plus.

 

The biggest thing to make sure when reading this is it assumes you have checked to make sure all worm gear clamps and such are tightened down at the airbox,turbo inlet, top mounted intercooler coupler to throttle body and to intercooler. These are simple things some people don't check first and causes a bunch of headaches for them.

 

This is a video showing what kind of leaks are possible and then pictures breaking down specific areas

 

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=377734489070626

 

1. This first picture is showing the turbo's wastegate hose *silver bell*, The turbo inlet *bigger black hose connected to turbo*, The turbo nipple hose and the turbo to intercooler mounting flange. These areas are prone to leak if the intercooler is not mounted properly and flush, The hoses are not seated on the hose barbs and if the turbo inlet has been chewed away by the clamp being tightened too much/not enough or just adjusted too many times because of age. If its oily and looks like rubber is coming through the worm gears section of the clamp its probably leaking.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200133&d=1420422748

 

2. This next picture is part of the next picture as well when it comes to descriptions. These intercoolers can leak from the plastic end tanks once they have aged OR are pushed at higher boost levels. The aluminum "fingers" start to fold up and the black plastic end tank starts to move away from the core which causes leaks. This is pointing at the underside of the core to explain it can leak from the bottom as well as the top.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200134&d=1420422748

 

3.This picture shows what was discussed in the last picture which is leaks at the intercooler to end take mounting area. These "fingers" can start to fold up over time because of age or being ran at higher boost levels and cause the end tank to separate from the core. If you look closely you can see where oil is escaping in the boost vapor and actually causing a spot where the intercooler is leaking. This is a common issue with this models intercooler.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200135&d=1420422748

 

4. This next picture is on the drivers side of the intake manifold between the two intake manifold runners. This is another vac line that can pop off so its good to check and ziptie. This also points at the area you might see an intake manifold gasket or anything leaking related to the tgv assemblies.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200136&d=1420422748

 

5. There is a lot going on in this area so it needs to be checked and ziptied/clamped as best as possible. This is at the turbo inlet area to the left side of the alternator. This is where the Stock electronic boost controller mounts and there are a lot of lines in this area.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200137&d=1420422748

 

6. This next pic can be a little confusing but most of the arrows are pointing toward the lines coming to and from the blow off valve. These need to be free of obstruction and connected tightly. Also make sure the gasket is in place on the bov if equipped. The arrow pointing under the intercooler is actually supposed to be pointed at the throttle body coupler and the fact that sometimes to get to the clamp closest to the throttle body you may have to go from under the cooler. There is a plastic sleeve on the stock throttle body hose that's prone to leak and can cause strange high pitched sounds when pinched open under boost. This has been said to be removed without issue but some say its very hard to get it sealed without it because of the design.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200138&d=1420422748

 

7. This next pic was used from a google search as I couldn't find a good lighting pic to demonstrate its location best. This is conneted right near the center of the rear of the intake manifold right under the top mounted intercooler. Its very hard to get to with the intercooler in place but is well known for popping off and causing people hassles. This can be ziptied or replaced with a barbed T fitting *one is supplied by a forum vendor turkeylord*.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200139&d=1420422748

 

This writeup is designed to help and the more comments and such people can provide will help others in their searches for leaks and hassles. Always keep in mind the age of the vehicles and that vacuum lines can crack or wear through with contact so the leak may not always be at one end of the hose either.

 

Hope this helps and bump it up to the top for others if you like the info

 

Dave

 

 

I never realized prior to this that my intercooler had a small leak. I didn't connect the oil residue on the end tank with a boost leak. I feel retarded. Thank you for this!

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

 

 

I just use the Subaru stuff, Idemitsu ATF-HP. After all, the 5EAT was designed more or less around this fluid. Never had any issues with it. I would post an Ebay link, but I'm not sure of the forum rules on such and I don't want to dig to find out. 12 quarts for $64.20 on Ebay right now. You'll get about 3.5-4.5 quarts to drain out of the pan if you let it sit a few hours. I change mine every third oil change. I don't like transmission flushes. Heard too many stories of damaged shift solenoids and wiring from the pressure. I use Valvoline synthetic gear oil LSD compatible 75/90 in my front and rear differential. No noises or metal shavings on the drain plug magnets and I do beat on my car pretty hard.

I've seen it a few times myself The t-stat housings are also prone to cracking. GM has had water pump issues dating back to the late 90s in the 3.1,3.4 and 3.8 engines. They also had major issues with manifold gaskets on those motors too. I could go on and on and on I'd have to be paid really well before I'd consider driving an "American" car.

 

My wife had a Sunbird back in the day that liked to blow head gaskets. A 3.1 of course. It was a convertible too, so that meant you had rain pissing on you and you couldn't see a dang thing out of the plexiglass rear window. My mother has an 05 Impala with a 3.4. She has spent thousands on that car and hardly even drives it.

Those axles were american made and recalled a few times. The most common part to fail for us is the water pumps.

 

 

Something as simple as a water pump? Must be some kind of design flaw. Same with the axles. American made isn't always a promise of quality, unfortunately.

$30 for a screw? That would be too much for even the classier looking women around here. Back when I was a machinist I worked for a GM, Chrysler, and Ford supplier. The GM big wigs were very anal about consistencies and our ISO reporting procedures. They obviously don't treat all their suppliers the same way. Hell, Ford didn't care about anything and I'm pretty sure Chrysler had us making parts for concept cars that were never produced. I doubt they were even aware of what they paid us to do. Good luck with your "Domestic!" Hopefully it works itself out.

Isn't the Cruze a result of GM's unholy union with the Korean manufacturers? I remember an old neighbor and his Aveo. Motor needed replacement before his second oil change. Apparently the disposable car/Yugo concept is still in full bloom.

I'm with you, these cars are some of the more unreliable cars out of Japan, but it's so hard to find a fun AWD luxury sedan that I'm willing to put up with them for that reason (mind you that might change if I need a new engine)

 

Older Subaru's got a lot of reliability rep because they were built much better, for 2005+ they really started cutting costs (paper head gaskets on 2.5i's, come on it's not like your new to building cars Subaru...).

 

The design of these control arms suck, why else would you need a new LCA bushing only 30k miles in? My 2004 FXT had 165k miles and the rear LCA bushings were still in great shape.

 

I saw the same axle on RockAuto for $48 plus S&H and minus 5% discount. So if you haven't purchased yet, check them out.

 

Thanks, but $63 was with shipping. everyone else wanted $10-30 to ship. These suckers do weigh 16 pounds.

In the long run I love the power my Legacy makes, and that I can fit my kids in the back comfortably. But I always had a thing for Hondas and Subarus. Subarus for their power and all wheel drive. And Hondas for their gas mileage, reliability, and low cost parts. If Honda made an AWD, 300 horsepower, turbo sedan, I would turn from Subaru and never look back.

And please don't tell me you can't have power and reliability. My 72 Monte Carlo would argue otherwise.

I have avoided Mitsubishi for the very reason Subaru is putting a bad taste in my mouth. Such a shame!

I don't mean to sound like a cheap snob. I've just put quite a bit into this car already and am frankly frustrated with Subaru's quality. Aside from the transmission my 92 SVX is far and away more reliable. A friend just sold his 95 Imprezza wagon. It had 374,000 miles, No engine or tranny work ever performed on it and 3 of his axles were original and still perfect. Things like bushings splitting just shows a turn from "quality" to "lets make this crap for as cheap as we can." Pisses me off. Thank you for that part number CovertRussian. Found then on Amazon for $63! Toodles.

Do you have a part number for that Empire axle? I'd sure appreciate it.

Maybe I didn't clarify enough. I am looking for a killer deal on lower control arms considering a bunch of individuals picked up some Mevotechs on Ebay and other sources for way the hell under retail. Many of you have extras. I would like to purchase a pair of those extras. I will just install the Whiteline bushings on my stock arms if I have to pay over $100 an arm. Thank you in advance. By the way, does anyone know of a cheap replacement axle for an 05 LGT that actually works and doesn't cause vibration? Can't seem to find a clear answer anywhere. Thanks again.

Anyone willing to sell me a set of the Mevotechs? My 05 needs the lca bushings pretty bad.