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Posts posted by bobbydd21
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Time for more general troubleshooting then:
code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0171
Do you have a mate that can lend you their MAF sensor for a test ?
Just cleaned the MAF and the filter is not oiled. Still got the code. Only thing I can think of is maybe one of the rubber couplings got a small hole in it from being pulled to reinstall. Going to try and replace all of those first and see what happens
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There is an air leak somewhere. Go through your steps again.
Slowly
Took it apart and put it back together twice already lol. It would have to be a leak after the MAF and I didn’t even touch any of that.
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That looks like the connector for the hood position switch, a component of the optional remote start system. What do you mean by, "Cleaned out my air filter?" It appears not to be stock.
Ah okay. Figured it probably wasn't the issue. I have a Takeda intake with a reusable filter. I rinsed out the filter with water (as I normally do a few times a year), let it dry, and reinstalled. Now I'm getting these two codes thrown. No idea why.
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Does anyone know if this connector is suppose to go to anything? Cleaned out my air filter last night and now I’m getting engine codes P0171 and P2270....
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I knowww:wub:
Based on the wheels I'm guessing it's from the sport. I'll definitely look at picking one up once available cause it looks clean.
The new rear bumper is pretty slick too, might consider replacing mine with the new style rather than dropping money on repairing mine. Since no sheet metal is changed it'll likely be swappable.
The current nameless may fit but it will probably look weird since the tip on this new one appears to be oval versus the old round tips. Definitely like the old bumper better.
Also, it appears that there is no cutout for a dual exhaust on the passenger side anymore so there goes upgrading the 2.5i to a dual exhaust...
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Literally identical to mine. If he is saying that it's only compatible up to 2015, that's he one I have. The model number for the one I bought is TR-4303P, that's exactly what that is. As for the breather hose, you reuse your stock one so that extra piece he has attached can be used if your hose happens to be too short. Then all you'd need is a coupler and a couple tiny clamps.
Didn't see there was 3 pics. That is 100% the same as mine. And he even has a coupler and clamps. You need nothing.
This is how short it is. I have the hose fully seated on the coupler now but just so you have a general idea what it looks like
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/25c107a4f96f45a372855bbcfa2788fc.png
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Great to hear it looks exactly the same! I'll go for it then. Hopefully he includes all that stuff in the pictures. Thanks so much for your help! I'll let you know how it goes once I get it.
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I just looked up the 2014 and the engine compartment looks to be almost identical to our 2016. If not the intake still appears to be he same and in the same location so it should be fine. Just to be safe I'd grab a bit of hose and a coupler, return it if you don't need it. Which intake were you looking at?
**EDIT**
And on aFe Power's website this is for the 10-15 Legacy so you should be good. Mine was for the 2015 and that crankcase breather vent was the only hiccup I had. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/ff55a0e32ae87d895c359fecaa6ae98e.png
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Yeah, that intake definitely looks the same. The only thing that got me concerned was the response from an AFE tech when I asked about the different models:
"I know for a fact that your intake will not fit the 2017 Legacy, and I thing the 2016 legacy is when they changed the style so I would be careful when trying to install it because my system shows that the 2014 intake only fits up to 2015. Just a heads up."
His system could just be taking in account though that the hose is shorter and so does not technically fit the 2016.
The intake I was looking to get is this one: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ny-takeda-intake-2-5i-256413.html. Just sucks if I get it and it doesn't fit because it's not like I can return it.
P.s. thanks for all the help on this!
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I bought a brand new one off of another supplier other than aFe Power and the crankcase breather hose was like 3" short. I was like wtf am I doing wrong!? Extra few inches of hose and coupler and I was good to go. Sucked that I had to install my stock intake again to go to the parts store because I already had it out.
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Wow that does suck haha. I'll make sure to get it first then before taking it apart. The intake I want to buy was for a 2014 Legacy and I knows you said yours was for a 2015. Do you think there will be any difference between the 2014 and 2015? I'm skeptical that it will fit my 2016.
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So the takeda intakes dont fit the 2016s?
They do. If you buy one brand new they include the longer hose but if you buy a preused one off the previous gen then the only difference is the hose is slightly short.
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Looks like the SSD/K&N intake for the Forester(?) would fit
http://ssdsubaru.blogspot.com/
I used the Takeda specified for a 2015 for my 2016. Only difference was the crankcase breather hose was about 3" too short so I had to add a coupling and a couple inches of hose. Other than that, snugger than OJ's glove.
I know this an old thread, but I'm getting this intake for the previous generation and was wondering where you picked up the coupling and extra hose.
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So i would not need the kn filter?
Nope, both of those intakes include their own filter.
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I might have missed the post earlier but I couldn't find it. Anyone weigh or know the weight os the WRX OEM rims many of you have on?
According to this post they weight around 26.6 pounds. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2740916
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Awesome write up man! Thanks a lot!
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Would it be possible to split the single 2.5i exhaust into a dual exhaust (would you use the 3.6r exhaust?)...but instead you would keep the stock exhaust on 1 side, and then get the Nameless straight pipe on the other. Then you can either put a plate between the flange on either side..so if you want to drive straight pipe for the weekend you put the blocker plate in the flange that goes to the stock exhaust and vice versa..possible?
I guess this would be possible, but would probably be a pretty weird setup. The nameless has a larger tip than the stock exhaust.
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@bobbyd..I found these mufflers on craigslist in new york for $75 for both almost brand new LOL.
Haha nice, that's a good deal! I mean it wouldn't hurt offering the guy like $75 for the midpipe. He might accept anything he can get because I can't see too many people looking for these parts.
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Yea stock mufflers off of a 2015 WRX..Everything bolted on but I would suggest trimming the bumper slightly as it does touch. It's a very tight fit but I haven't seen any signs of the bumper melting or deforming or anything and I drive the car daily..
I know when guys put this muffler on the Forester they trim the bumper for a better fit. I measured the opening on the Forester bumper and it's the same space so I think a slight trim would make this muffler fit the Legacy perfectly.
Hopefully I can find a cheap WRX midpipe and I'll add the passenger side muffler also.
Not sure where you are located, but in CT I saw on craigslist a listing for a WRX midpipe as well as both mufflers for $400.
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That may be true, but they can tell the car has been recently reset. Which can occur by disconnecting the battery or re-flashing. Some dealers look for this, some don't. Bottom line is, if you want to tune your car be prepared to pay if it breaks.
I definitely agree that you shouldn't tune if you aren't willing to pay. But from what I understand, the count is really the only way they can justify you changed the ECU. As you said, a reset can be done by just disconnecting the battery. So them claiming you reset the ECU proves absolutely nothing, no?
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So I was talking to Matt recently about the tune and I asked him if Subaru would be able to tell if you reflashed to stock. He told me "No reflash counter remains after loading stock tune in." I wonder if this is true because if so that is pretty awesome!
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I think you're a millimeter or two off to the side. I'd remove and reinstall.....Loosen clamps/bolts. Knock it across with a hammer/brick/head/solid object. Tighten clamps. Job done.
This sounds like an easy way to fix it. Which direction should I hammer it towards? You think the bar is too far over towards the driver side?
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Installed the Whiteline swaybar, medium setting. Getting a clunk from the rear. Re-torqued the bolts and centered the sway bar (was way over the driver side by 1.5"). Can't be sure but I think it did not make the noise before I centered it, at least I didn't notice it.
Now it is pretty noticable when I turn a corner and go over a bump or when accelerating/braking hard. I am semi decent garage mechanic so I don't think I installed anything incorrectly but as always, it's possible something is incorrect. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
If I can't get this resolved I'll probably either install Kartboy endlinks or go to a regular 19mm swaybar.
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I just wanted to post some pics to make sure I centered the sway bar right. Passenger side looks to to be slightly over to the left too much since the bushing is slightly further away from the metal ring (left picture). Everything feels fine though and no clunking, etc. Should I be worried or am I just OCD haha.
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Great, thanks for the advice guys! If I notice a difference in power I'll do it. Otherwise I'll just leave it alone until I get the tune done.
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So I've been reading a few comments on this thread about resetting the ECU when doing certain mods. I'm upgrading my single exhaust to a dual exhaust soon and wanted to see if you guys thought it would be beneficial to reset the ECU.
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If you send us a PM, we will provide you with a code for free-shipping
(U.S. forum members receive free shipping with the code)
Thanks!
Nick C.
Awesome, thanks! I sent you a pm.
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It's available here on our website: 2015-2016 Subaru Legacy Tail as Turn™ +Backup Module (Pair)
Thanks!
Nick C.
So does that mean it will never be available on Amazon? I only ask because I see many of your other kits on Amazon prime, which would allow me to get free shipping. Thanks!
What is this connector?? Running Lean
in Sixth Generation Legacy (2015 -2019 )
Posted