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Cobber15

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Posts posted by Cobber15

  1. Hey all, when I am parked with the car running, if I grab the steering wheel and turn it back and forth in quick, short motions, I hear a clunking noise. The dealership said everything is good. I disagreed, so I had the tech sit in the car with me as I did it. They will now be contacting an engineer for the car to look at it at the dealership. I told them my 2016 Legacy had the recall done back around 2017. It made the same noise from the same actions. I feel like it’s the same issue. I’ll let you know when it’s all checked out, what they find. Anyone else have this same issue?
  2. I had a 16 2.5 premium and now own a 20 sport 2.5 I’ve had for 19 months. I’m happy with the car. I like the sport mode. It’s not faster, it just drives different with higher rpms before shifting. Overall, I like almost everything better about the car. The remote start with the app is awesome. The only thing I’d change is the leather strip down the middle of the seat. Your back can get a little hot in the summer, but I guess that’s what the AC is for. Haha. To me it’s worth it. I didn’t get the XT bc of price. I can’t lease. I drive way too many miles, and I refuse to pay over $500/month for a car. Lol
  3. Why can’t Subaru make better brake rotors? I’d expect cheap aftermarket rotors to warp, but not OEM rotors. My 16 Legacy had the brake rotors warp at least twice. No other vehicle I have ever owned has had this issue. I had 7 vehicles before my first Legacy. My 16’s rotors warped in the first 24k. My 20 has 34k on it, and they are warped now too. I hate the idea of buying stock rotors and just waiting for them to warp again. If I slammed on the brakes at 90mph, I would understand, but I don’t. Anyone else experiencing warped rotors?
  4. I’m really happy with the upgrade. Bass is certainly better, and there is def more volume now. I’m not looking to rattle windows, so this is perfect for a stock upgrade with no hacking of wires. If anyone is thinking of doing this, here are my tips. One, the head unit needs to be unbolted, but you do not need to disconnect every wire/harness like the directions say. It just isn’t necessary. Two, when you remove the center console, there are two small bolts near the seatbelts. Out the seat all the way forward, and these are super easy to get to. Three, the only real pain in the ass is routing the harness under part of the carpet to come out under the passenger seat where to amp will sit. I cut my carpet. It’s completely unnoticeable. It was so hard to get the two connectors under and through. I fished a piece of copper wire from a 14/2 electrical wire to tape the harness though to help guide it through. It’s actually quite funny how small the magnets are on the stock speakers. They could probably hold a post it note on the fridge. Lol
  5. I use a 3 ton jack on the jack points behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires. I’ve heard you can jack ip the rear under the differential, but I’ve never tried it. If I were to try it, I’d prob put a piece of wood between the jack and differential. I rotate my tires just using one jack and 2 jack stands. Takes about 15 minutes or so.
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