pik1111

I know right? You should buy it [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bumped Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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SOLD Time has come to let go of the track wagon. I am moving out of state soon and won't be close to any tracks. This car has been a years long project for me some of which I have detailed in other threads here. This car is a conversation starter at the track for sure. Some history... I bought the car new in 2005. Virtually every system on the car has been upgraded. I have put a lot into this car, over $40K in parts alone. Here is the run down: 2005 Legacy GT Limited Wagon OBP 5MT 1995 Featherlight 3110 aluminum open top trailer ~110K miles The motor and tune were done in 2018 by Drive Autosports from an IAG Stage III Tuff closed deck block with a Blouch Dominator 1.5 XT-R it dyno'd on a Dynapack @ 332WHP/352WTQ. This setup can make more power but my goal was around 330WHP as I wanted good power and reliability. The interior has been completed gutted and 425 Motorsports installed a roll cage. I have used this exclusively for track days but it does have valid WA plates. I don't do use this car for drag racing, and I don't do hard launches. In fact don't even have the rev limiting launch control or flat foot shifting enabled in the tune. So I could not tell you what it's 0-60 time is or what it will do in a 1/4 mile. But I can tell you it is a blast to drive fast around a road course. I have changed the oil with fresh Motul v300 after every track day. I just had the Motul 660 brake fluid changed and system bled. The front rotors and pads have 1 track day on them. NOTE: The front coilovers need replaced. These can be ordered from BC Racing individually. The are about $300 per corner. Here is the shopping list for the build: Engine bay •IAG Stage III Tuff Closed Deck block w/ 1/2" head stud kit and cooper ring head gaskets5475 •Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R 8CM 3in inlet coated1800 •Refresh Cylinder heads (valve grind, valve stem seals, surface and guide repair1491 •11 mm oil pump200 •Process West TMIC w/ custom Boxkita shroud 1100 •Crawford v2 AOS356 •Killer-B Oil Pan, Pickup, Windage tray550 •Killer-B Holy 4 into 1 header coated1800 •Perrin Oil cooler782 •Koyorad radiator330 •Gimmick Racing Turbo Inlet280 •WRX flywheel200 •South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Endurance 1138 •Fluiddampr crank pulley450 •Zerolift TGV delete200 •Phenolic spacers 60 •Cobb 1050cc top feed injectors653 •Aluminati fuel rails250 •Grimmspeed catless uppipe for EWG350 •Tial 38mm EWG300 •Grimmspeed brake master cylinder brace100 •Optima RedTop battery250 •SPT exhaust (custom with resonator and SPT mufflers and muffler deletes)1000 •Turbosmart BPV 166 •Invidia catless downpipe350 •Higher pressure radiator and expansion tank caps (Crawford and STI) 100 •DeatschWerks (9-652-1008) 265 LPH Compact Fuel Pump 150 •Intercooler sprayer (repurposed rear washer line to intercooler) •AC delete •Heater delete Interior •Ecliptech ShiftP2 shift light190 •Prosport Oil pressure and temp gauges in center cubby250 •6 point roll cage (425 Motorsports)6000 •Sparco Evo II drivers seat800 •Recoro Pole Position N.G. passenger seat800 •Sparco 6 point harness (shoulder harness: 3 inch on drivers, 2 inch on passenger)800 •Sparco Fire suppression system400 •Suede DashMat cover (for glare and to cover white sticky dash)60 •Battery shutoff switch (not a kill switch, battery saver)60 •Sparco 015L750SC Wheel Diameter 350mm L575 Steering290 •Recaro Seat sliders400 •Planted seat brackets380 •NRG steering wheel disconnect112 •SPT short sifter and bushing 200 •Momo shift knob200 •Custom Fire extinguisher mount •Custom front door panels w/ Sparco pulls •USB Power outlet •Custom carbon fiber center console with fire pull, Fan and Tune switch •Suspension / Brakes •2016 STI steering rack with Whiteline steering rack bushings500 •2004 STI Brembo brakes conversion with speed bleeders1000 •DBA T3 ClubSpec 4000 Slotted rotors (new fronts)660 •BC Racing DR SeriesvDigressive PistonvCoilovers LGT with Swift 10K springs1510 •"Saggy butt" spacers on rear 100 •Spec B alumimun bits400 •AVO rear anti-roll bar brace120 •Cusco roll bar (23 mm front and 21 mm rear)400 •Cusco steering rack brace60 •Whiteline end links200 •Whiteline KTA124 Rear Control Arm assembly342 •Whiteline bushings •Agency Power sway bar end links240 •Stainless steel brake lines150 •EBC Yellowstuff pads 300 Exterior •Custom Carbon fiber Sunroof insert (Northwind Composites)425 https://northwindcomposites.com/2017/02/03%e2%80%b2-09%e2%80%b2-subaru-legacy-bp-sunroof-delete-officially-for-sale/ •Madrig carbon fiber hood scoop250 •CTI Rear diffuser 300 •Rolled fenders •Front and Rear tow hooks •Grillcraft grill insert350 •JDM style front lip100 •Primitive Racing skid plate320 •HID headlight upgrade and LED Brake and turn signal lights •Wheels / Tires •Enkei PF01 Wheels (17x8", 45mm, 5x100) with Toyo RR 235/40ZR171228 •TSW Nurburgring 18x8 Bronze with Bridgestone Blizak LM-32 225/40R18 1000 Fluids •Motul 660 Racing Brake fluid •Motul 5w30 300v Racing Oil (changed after every track day) •Water and Redline water wetter coolant •Motul Gear 300 75W90 in rear diff •Transmission cocktail of Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul Gear 300 Tune •Drive Auto Sports tuned on dynapack dyno (332 HP / 352 TQ)506 •Total of parts: $41,284 Like I said I am moving and am a motivated seller I am making a screaming deal . Asking price for wagon and trailer together: $12,500 or best offer Additional pics: https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0a6arKM-CA-lOoeny2hTlt_oA Lap vid

PM's responded

Bump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Downpipe is pending.

This is the chart from the VF52 build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was told it had ~40k miles when I bought it and I put maybe 10k on it. On my first build it made 297 HP on a stock block. I have the dyno sheet from that build and can upload it later tonight. No shaft play as far as I can tell. Ran great till the stock block with 109k miles decided it didn’t want to be a race car anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM's responded

Cleaning out sale. Cobb catted downpipe for manual with O2 sensor - SOLD Grimmspeed AOS with new OEM PCV - SOLD Grimmspeed Lightweight crank pulley - $75 Grimmspeed Front pipe - SOLD VF52 with Turbosmart IWG-75 - SOLD Whiteline front tower brace - $125 Stock + bulletproof intercooler with Mishimoto silicone coupler- SOLD Fuel Injector Clinic 900cc injectors -SOLD Wagon Rear cover - $50 Spec B pedal covers - SOLD eBay 'GReddy' Oil catch can - $25 Yakima roof bar for Wagon with 2 sets of Kayak J bars and 2 bike racks - SOLD Buyer pays shipping and fees.

Woot! Thanks for getting this done Boxkita! My constant nagging has paid off [emoji3]Soon I will not have to worry about my PW ITMIC not getting enough air through it! I still have the stock splitter on and had to bend it up a bit and add some stick on weather stripping to get it to seal. But that seal only covers maybe 60% of the IC. With summer track days coming more cooling is more better! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct. My next project is for adding a FSS and battery switch. I have a regular extinguisher in the car but need the real deal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the advice on how I should throw more good money after bad. The track day went great for the most part. The car ran great, but mid day the check engine light came on which freaked me out. I got it back in the paddock and pulled the code, it was P0031 Oxygen (A/F) sensor. Nothing major, but I called it at that point. There was a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust which freaked me out at first till I remembered that my old motor puked out so much oil that it poured out of the exhaust manifold. So it makes sense that once the exhaust got hot it would start burning off that oil. The motor oil level barely went down after running 29 laps. I was running with my buddy who has a stripped out E36 M3 running on coil overs and slicks and could keep up him. We both got around a guy in a Cayman GT4. He could not even out run me on the straight, which was kinda funny. In the first sessions, it was still cool (~45 F) and the back was still damp, so I was running on my Blizzak LM-32's. Wow those are actually really grippy on a cold track. After the first session I switched over to the Proxies RR's, but now there was noive school traffic on the track so I did not get a full lap where I wasn't behind a student for a bit and had to lift till I got a point around them. But overall a really fun day.

I got the wagon back last week! So far so good. Paul at Drive Auto Sports broke in the motor on the dyno. Drive has a DynaPak which mean they can simulate the car going up and down hills to go from load to vacuum which is needed for break-in. Break-in theory is damn near religion, but lets just say I am on team run it hard. Especially when the only new part is the block, breaking in new cams and valve train is different. The only thing that needs to 'break-in' is getting the piston rings set. If they don't get set quickly the motor will always use more oil. I will put my new fire suit on now and brace myself... On the dyno the Cavalli Stage 2 made a ton of torque right off the bat. Paul wanted to see what it would do and it made 380 wTQ on 92 pump gas. He then asked if I had done anything to the 5MT like hardened gears. I said, no the trans is stock, which he replied, "no way I am sending you out with this then, you will zip the teeth right off the gears". So a 6MT with R180 upgrade is in my future, too bad my Boxkita Bucks expired . He backed it off to a nice and smooth ~320wHP/350wTQ. It makes peak HP way up at 6800. The VF52 made all its power in the mid range and dropped way off up top. He also reconfigured my Tial EWG. Before it made a sound that I likened to a demonic trumpet. I guess it is not supposed to sound like that and it was causing boost flutter. The new COBB software allows the tuner to change the wastegate frequency. He bumped it from 15Hz to 30Hz and rerouted the vacuum lines from a 'push-pull' config to one way with the other venting to atmosphere. Result is the boost flutter is gone. I am running Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 5w/30 break-in oil. I have put a bit over 100 miles on it so far and will be changing oil and filter tonight and then taking it out to Pacific Raceway tomorrow to run it. Since my last outing there resulted in fire and an AAA call for a flatbed, I have also invested in a fire suit and a featherlight trailer.

Gator did you slip, fall and buy another race car???? That is a great deal for that car. Those camber plates look familiar. Same that’s on the race wagon. What were they called again? Got my wagon back yesterday. I will update my thread later with the details...right now I got to go walk the streets tryin to turn tricks to pay my bill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an update on my motor from Drive Auto Sports in Woodinville. Need to figure out root cause. Luckily it sounds like my heads are still serviceable. The guys were able to get your engine torn down this morning, and they found that cylinder #4 had a meltdown event. Pauls best theory is that an injector went lean, causing the piston to meltdown. That caused an over pressurization of the crankcase, blowing off the breather hose. That allowed the oil to escape and cause the fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an update on my motor from Drive Auto Sports in Woodinville. Need to figure out root cause. Luckily it sounds like my heads are still serviceable. The guys were able to get your engine torn down this morning, and they found that cylinder #4 had a meltdown event. Pauls best theory is that an injector went lean, causing the piston to meltdown. That caused an over pressurization of the crankcase, blowing off the breather hose. That allowed the oil to escape and cause the fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you post your dyno chart? I would like to see what the power curve looks like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uh...ok! I would like to take you up on that offer. When and where[emoji3] Boxkita and I will be at the Ridge in Saturday for the race if you want to meet up there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah. I am overbuilding for durability on track. This motor will spend most of its life around the red line and closed deck offers advantages in reduced chances of cylinder wall flex. In the big picture $1k more is a relatively small percentage increase for some piece of mind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I already own the Crawford aos. I will take a look at that turbo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to build a new motor for the track wagon. I am starting with a IAG closed deck stage 3 Tuff block. I am looking to get to a usable ~400 whp. I am looking to swap out the VF52 with either the FP HTA71 or a Borg Warner EFR 6258. Boxkita is helping me decipher the compressor maps to see which one will make power early and keep boost through the RPM range. I am adding in a Crawford AOS v2, Perrin oil cooler and Killer B oil pan, pickup and windage tray and an Invidia cat-less DP (fingers crossed it shoots fire ) Still need to decide on headers or not, Boxkita says headers = more torque. I now am officially overcommitted to the wagon... If anyone needs advice on how to make bad decisions with money, I am here to help.

Welp, motor is toast. My guess is blown ring land in #4 cylinder. It just blows white smoke and I get a engine code p0304 cylinder 4 misfire. Then before or after the breather hose to popped off and spewed out the oil. Which, as stated before, caused a fire. Now I have to decide between IAG, Outfront or Woolman for a closed deck block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk